elroyyboy
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Posts posted by elroyyboy
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Sorry, not trying to poo poo your posts. But, as you might imagine, I've been over every possible root cause about 100k times over the past few weeks. I appreciate your comments as well as those of the other experienced shooters and reloaders on this forum. Thanks very much.
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Could be a case oversize at the base, which could hold it out of battery far enough to blow out the case but still let the striker go forward and fire the round.
Steve. I run brass through Lee Bulge Buster before I ever put them on progressive and plunk test every round.
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Thanks guys. I do change springs, but not my recoil spring. The gun had around 700-800 rounds, mostly mid to low range reloads, before the incident.
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I'd guess the cause of the "Kaboom" was firing out of battery.
Steve, thanks. Soooooo, the $100 question is how to prevent OOB?
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You should invest in the Redding GRX die. It allows you to detect casehead seperation by feel as you push the case through the carbide sizing ring. A good case is initially hard to push through, then eases as the casehead passes through the ring. A bad case will start off hard, then get easy and then hard again in a jittery sort of way as the sizing ring nears the extreactor groove. This indicates the casehead had thinned. I toss about 3% of 1x fired cases cuz they feel weird while passing through the die.
I get the same feeling when pushing through the Lee Bulge Buster. I size brass in a single stage before ever putting it through the progressive.
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Well, I got my G35 Gen4 back from Glock today with a new frame. I'm very pleased with Glock's solution to the problem. It's interesting that they returned my aftermarket springs and connector in a Ziploc bag, but replaced the Gen3 trigger bar I had in the pistol with another Gen3 trigger bar. I'm looking forward to shooting tomorrow morning at Bud's Indoor Range. I'll start again with factory ammo and see what happens.
For future reference, what did you tell them happened that they just replaced it?
The truth. Reloads and all.
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BTW hundred bucks for each frame replacement and when I called they simple said just go to an ffl dealer and send it to us. paid shipping of course. Make sure to follow up with an order # in a week at least and also to check if it was sent back to your ffl. So simple. Those new gen 3 frames felt so goooodddd you know!!!!!!!! The feeling was kinda different from my other glocks and looks like its more sturdy have they improved anything or am i just excited? Gen 3 for sure since Im in cali. The slides came back same so the numbers didnt match but who cares? I got two consecutive serial numbers beginning with letter G. Pretty much to it!
Kentucky is a great place! No FFL required. Next day air to Glock ($50) and they sent directly to me! Haven't shot it yet, maybe tomorrow. Functions test are all AOK.
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It's fixed and returned. I called and honestly explained the incident to them and paid $100 for a frame replacement and pistol inspection.
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I use a Lee Pro 1000 with the micro disc powder measure. I try to stay away from "stick" powders as I've read about metering problems with the Pro 1000 Auto Disc. Again, I use the micro disc. ThanksBeing too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.Thanks for the comments. I'll definitely do some data collection to ensure it's not a drop problem.
BTW. Fired 150 prior to incident and have pulled another 150 from the same lot of 400, and haven't found an over or under charge.
As stated before I do plunk test every round. Any tight fits go straight to the disassembly coffee can.
+1 you could have double charged it in your checking powder process. do you use a crono after you wip up a load? what reloader are you using? I'm sure you know, but .40's are hot already. Power pistol is on the slow side and can get closeto the velocity you are looking for and easy to spot a double charge. and correct me if I'm wrong but is not Berry's lead plated & treated like lead bullets? That is what I got on my press now... Keep us informed what Glock Services has to say and what your next loads that you run through the G35 I too am curious on why this has happen.. Good luck be safe &.glad your okay..
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Well, I got my G35 Gen4 back from Glock today with a new frame. I'm very pleased with Glock's solution to the problem. It's interesting that they returned my aftermarket springs and connector in a Ziploc bag, but replaced the Gen3 trigger bar I had in the pistol with another Gen3 trigger bar. I'm looking forward to shooting tomorrow morning at Bud's Indoor Range. I'll start again with factory ammo and see what happens.
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I was honest with the gentleman on the phone and asked if anything could be done with the gun.
I'll certainly adopt some better practices and not ask them again for help as a result of my mistakes.
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Well, I thought I got what was bad news in a phone message from Glock yesterday. However, after a follow up, Glock has VERY generously agreed to replace the frame on my G35 and return it to me. The frame will have a different serial number, but it's a shooter anyway.
Thanks everyone for your help and guidance!
Woo Hoo!!!
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I'll buy the Tacoma!
Nope. Took me forever to find 4cyl/5 sp regular cab 4x4 with factory buckets! Never gonna sell it!
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Poor Elroy. Now somebody will accuse you of saying Toyota should fix your truck for free!
Sometimes you just can't win on this forum. I still say ask Glock what they can do for you. I know people have blown guns apart by their own admission and got things fixed pretty cheap. I think some of it comes from the makers not wanting us shade tree gunsmiths trying to super glue guns back together and hurting somebody.
You're right Sarge. I thought I was having a bad day last week and then watched the video for "Free" by Zac Brown Band, which was filmed at a USO show in Balad.
I'm a lucky dude.
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Just be thankful it was only the gun. Not your eyes or hand that could not be fixed or replaced.
You're right. I would've felt terrible had the extractor chunked someone in the face. It was a lucky day.
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A drift but the nuts out there make me laugh. I have carried for close to 30 years. Do you think I really care about your middle finger and what it could do to my feelings just because I do not drive at 10+ over the speed limit?
Ha! I'm 47 but have the defensive skills of a 60 year old. Slow and deliberate, with an escape route at all times (she happened to want my route, too).
Hopefully the Tacoma will be good as new and ready for another 135k miles soon.
Accident tore the $#|* out of her car but the Tacoma motored on home. Whew. USAA is all over it now.
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Thanks Poppa Bear. You've hit the nail on the head.
What really sucks is that I blew up my gun on Saturday and just now arrived home from being in an accident with a crazy woman who believes that all words are more effective at 120 dB. I'm ok, truck's fixable, and she's still a lunatic.
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No Flex. That is the remaining case after the rim was ripped/blown off.
There is brass and bullet there though, right?
And, the bullet is not at the front of the chamber, the base of it is back at the mouth of the chamber?
Flex
The bullet exited the barrel. Only the case remained in the weapon. Is that indicative of a particular type of failure. There's another post about comparison to other either Over charges cases or OOB and I don't know the answer. Can you help?
Thanks
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Being too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.
Thanks for the comments. I'll definitely do some data collection to ensure it's not a drop problem.
BTW. Fired 150 prior to incident and have pulled another 150 from the same lot of 400, and haven't found an over or under charge.
As stated before I do plunk test every round. Any tight fits go straight to the disassembly coffee can.
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Gonna put my grown up britches on and bow out of this one.
Thanks for the constructive comments.
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Roger got it. I didn't infer in any way that it was the gun's issue. I'm hoping, not expecting, help from a company I've done business with for 17 years. Wouldn't you do the same?
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Because I'm cautious and my only powder drop problem (as described above) was undercharged cases when I first began reloading. I wasn't pushing the handle/raising the ram completely and the micro disc didn't get completely over the powder drop through die.
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No Flex. That is the remaining case after the rim was ripped/blown off. FWIW, there was no imprint of head stamp on the face of the "bolt"( for lack of a better term).
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I'm sure they won't miss your business. Or having you blame them for your mistake.
$.02
Steve
I learned from my folks that if you don't have something good to say, don't say anything. You're welcome to use this as you probably never learned it.
Kaboom
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
You know, that's one of the tips I picked up here. I'll be more attentive next time.