coulter6
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Posts posted by coulter6
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I use the 3 Gun Gear mag pouches also. You can put the pouch on and take it off without removing your belt. It also allows you to adjust the tension to hold the mags better.
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I just got a Charles Drissel cattail for my Burris XTR. It's very well made and fits perfectly. He promptly responded to my questions and shipped it very quickly.
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Looked on there website and didn't see them.
Michael64,
It's on this page about 1/2 down:
Look for "Choate conv kit 6rd only um84 molle compatible
CCK2" $14.00 "converts old Choate speed strippers to my UM84 ss belt clip includes lexan spacer, CAN ALSO RETROFIT 2 1/4"SS BELT CLIP molle compatible "
That web page leaves allot to be desired, but once you find them, it works well to order from.
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You can spend allot of money adding, modifying, changing etc. The best advice so far is shoot it and then see what you need to make it better for you.
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I want to switch out the factory sights on my Browning Hi-Power MK III with fiber optics sights.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to who has them and who can install them?
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I think you answered your own question. Since you can't see the front sight with your right eye, then you must use your left. Like Bigpops' wife, my wife is left eye dominate, and does the same thing except she uses tape on her glasses to block the urge to use the right eye.
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Another vote for the 5.11 and it comes with backpack type straps for carrying your guns.
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the Blade-Tech Sting Ray Belt Holster is worth a look.
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Do you own a pistol now? If so, use it until you find something you really like.
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I like the Tango Down Battle grips.
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Can anyone that's used these new caddies tell us about going prone? Do the get in the way?
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I've always put the bullets down, facing the front. Like what's been said already, exposed bullets and mag lips may cause problems.
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I load from the strong hand and wear a glove on my left. I've been burnt a few times without a glove.
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Front sight focus for most of my shots. For longer range flyers, I concentrate on the target.
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I used to use an extended bolt handle, but after it flew of during a match, I went back to the standard handle. I'm a firm believer that practice makes perfect. Practice with the stock handle and you're good to go. Before you going out and buying something, make sure you need it first.
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I modified my caddies with the California Competition Molle conversion kit for my Molle belt system. They work great and you can quickly tailor your load based on the stage. The wires go through you Molle loops and snap into the bottom fastener.
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I've been using the Tru Glo clamp-ons for about 6 months now on my BPS and they work great. They haven't fallen off once
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I shoot a 18" barrel, but I am now where close to all those named shooters in a previous post and probably never will be. For most of us average guys, 16" or 18" won't make much difference. Try out the different versions and go with the one you feel most comfortable with.
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You can't go wrong with JP or Whiteoak. What twist rate are you considering?
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Do you have a pic of the new reticle?
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Sure you can do it.
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I like my JP rifle. It may sound like allot of money up front, but believe me, if you buy a cheaper AR, you'll end up spending close to what a JP costs upgrading your rifle. Better to spend once than go through allot of dollars chasing a "competition" rifle.
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Sounds like a good way to blast through a bunch of ammo very quickly. I guess I can't go for spraying ammo down range since I have to pay for it.
You can find bunches of video on Youtube on how to bump fire without attachments.
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I get my 9mm at Walmart - 100 rd value pack
Piston driven AR help
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Take a look at Primary Weapons Systems (PWS). They make a very nice piston system and they sell uppers (although I hear the wait time is pretty long). They are also less expensive than LWRC.