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asontag

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Posts posted by asontag

  1. On 4/12/2017 at 5:07 PM, rowdyb said:

    And copied and pasted for exactness:

     

    Rowdy,

     
    We are waiting for more Shadow 2's to arrive from our factory, however there is no estimation we can offer as you've requested. Let us know if you have any further questions.
     

     

    That didn't stop FN from signing off a few years ago on 2000 FNS-9s being shipped when nobody had one. Too bad the folks at CZ seem to be more honest B)

  2. I'm guessing there were plenty of pre-orders, but many of them are holding out for the nitride finish with blue grips. I know others who pre-ordered well before I did that were told to not expect shipment until June. I was just hoping to get mine before fall. Good thing I'm not picky about the finish :D

  3. Thanks for all the good info. I don't want to switch back and forth (I have enough trouble keeping one draw consistent!), so it looks like I'll be sticking with kydex. Not sure if I want to deal with level II retention for limited though. I tend to just tighten down the screws, so I think I'll give that a go for now.

  4. I'm going to get an Edge for use in both 3-gun and USPSA limited. Since I will often be running around with the pistol in the holster for 3-gun, I want to make sure there is little chance of the pistol coming out and getting me DQd. Are the ghost or race master secure enough for this, or should I stick with kydex? What's everyone's favorite kydex for the Edge?

  5. I got an RIA .45 for ~$450 to try out single stack, and it worked well except FMJRN loads kept hitting the slide stop and causing the slide to lock back with rounds left in the mag. 5 min with a dremel cured that and haven't had any malfunctions since.

    Upgraded to an STI Trojan (.45) a few of months ago and love it. Ran great out of the box, though I did follow this http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0705.htm Not a single malfunction in the first 2500+ rounds. Trigger is much nicer than RIA, fit is a lot tighter, etc. If he can afford it, Trojan is definitely the way to go IMO.

  6. I shoot both and love the way the 1911 points so easy. It feels good in my hands but I too can't reach the mag release without twisting my hand around. One of the reasons I went to the Glock platform. I wait to thumb the safety down just before my support hand gets to the pistol but one thing to remember is to "ride" that safety with that thumb even after you've pushed it down. I've known guys that would push the safety off then lower their thumb below the safety and eventually they pop the safety up during a course of fire and lose time because they have to stop and figure out why the gun won't go bang.

    Congrats on making Expert in SSP.

    +1 on riding the safety. I've been having some issues with (unconsciously) putting the safety back on while running and then lose 2-3 seconds when I get into position and can't shoot. I'm trying to drill it into my grip that the strong thumb goes on top of the safety.

  7. Another thing to think about OP, is steel requires more of your time. There are no points for missing a steel plate, whereas you can get some for hitting a C or D on a paper target. With that said, I had to give myself permission to slow down and hit the steel. Once I found out how much time I required to get the hits, then I started speeding up the process.

    Shooting steel challenge and getting to this realization really helped out my game over the last year or so. When I remember to stop worrying about time and just make sure I keep the sights on the target as the shot breaks, my times go down. This becomes amplified with moving steel. If you allow yourself the time to go one-for-one, you will beat your 'fast' runs that have misses every time.

  8. I've only been reloading for about a year, so this is a question for those of you who've gone through these hoarding cycles before. How long do you think it will be before reloading supplies are readily available again? I would think the manufacturers have ramped up production to try to keep up with demand, but maybe it's not worth expanding their capacity since this should be a temporary bubble. From what I hear, primer prices never really dropped back down after the last shortage, so can we expect to pay more forever? Any thoughts?

  9. If you have any worries about installing it yourself (I did), you can send it to DMW and they'll install it for ~$35 and the price of a flat rate postal box.

    I shot a grand total of 1 match with an 11-87 before getting one of these, and it was a 2 handed operation - a major PITA. One guy at the match who wasn't familiar with the 11-87 carrier release button came over to ask about my 'unusual' loading technique.

  10. If you are very new to shooting pistol, I would run you through a simple test

    I would put a target at 15 yards and ask you to draw and hit the head twice..

    I would use a timer to give you a start signal but not give you your time unless you made both shots.

    If you can't make the shots regularly, I would remove the timer and ask you to try it agein with out the draw, and with out a timer.

    What I would be looking for more than your speed is can you shoot?

    If I give you a some what challenging shot with no real time pressure how often can you execute it?

    If the answer is not, every single time, then before you work on seeing what you need to see, movement, and all this other stuff you need to learn to shoot..

    Plain and simple..

    There's no shortcut to it..

    You say your not a great pistol shot, what does that mean?

    If it means you don't always hit what your aiming at then that might be a place to start.

    Don't feel bad, very few shooters in or sport actually work on learning to shoot a handgun accurately.

    And allot don't progress because of it..

    Excellent advice and probably where I should start. I don't know if I am a bad pistol shot but I do feel I have more weaknesses with it than a rifle. Maybe those weaknesses stem from poor or inadequate fundamentals. I will start with some controlled practice and see if I can work on shooting straight before I work on shooting fast.....and straight. Thanks for all the great responses.

    Being not much further along than yourself, I can say that learning the fundamentals of how to shoot is what has really helped accelerate my learning curve. Practicing with a timer is important, but practicing group shooting and shot calling are even more so at the beginning. If you're dealing with trigger control issues, dry fire a lot. If you don't see the front sight lift, do the exercise where you ditch the target and shoot into the berm just trying to watch the front sight lift and return through the recoil cycle.

    This forum is an excellent resource that has helped me immensely. Try reading some of the general stuff here like: http://www.brianenos.com/pages/words.html#fundamental and http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=144257. There are also plenty of very knowledgable people here willing to help out with specifics too. Oh yeah, get Brian's book and read it. Then read it again when you get better and want to continue to improve. Rinse, repeat...

  11. I just want to make sure this is the right scope to get: Burris Tac30 link

    A few months ago, I was in the same position as you are now. That's the scope I use, and it's a good way to get started. It's definitely not what's holding me back. The MTAC is nicer since you can adjust the power with a ring rather than turning the whole eyepiece, but it wasn't worth the extra $100 to me.

    I did basically what a lot of people here have suggested. I started with an off-the-shelf Bushmaster for about $800 and shot a couple of matches. The rifle obviously wasn't (and still isn't) ideal, but I'm having lots of fun and developing much stronger rifle skills. I've done minor upgrades for a couple hundred dollars - drop in CMC trigger (~$175), Miculek comp (~$35), and what I have is more than adequate for my current skill set. When it takes me several shots to hit an 8" plate at 75 yards, I don't think the problem is the lack of a free-float hand guard, but rather my crappy position and trigger control! I plan on shooting the rifle as-is for at least the next year or so and then buying a purpose built 3gun rifle when I've gotten a lot more time behind the trigger and feel like the rifle might actually be holding me back.

    As others have said, don't agonize over the details, just get out there and have fun.

  12. Just got a new m&p pro 9, and when I was doing the initial take down for cleaning, the sear deactivation lever fell out. I'm new to the m&p, but from a quick search on this forum it looks like the part isn't necessary for safe/reliable operation. Should I worry that it just fell out, or is there a downside to not putting it back in?

  13. I had most of my spine fused in 2007 and put 20 lbs. on my pre-surgery weight (after dropping 15 lbs. laying in bed for a month) while I was recovering. I was able to get back to decent shape through hard work with a regimen like you say you are currently doing, but I never was able to drop all the weight and my stamina wasn't even close to what it was before the surgery. About 9 months ago, my wife talked me into working with a personal trainer once or twice a week, and it has been MUCH more effective for me. I dropped the 20 lbs. in about 6 weeks, and have put on another 10ish lbs. of muscle since then. The trainer has me doing planks and other back-friendly core work, which is critical for everything else. Just having someone else designing a constantly-changing workout (so your body doesn't get used to it and stop progressing) is a great help for me. I know it's expensive, but you might think about this option if you can.

    Good luck and keep working, you'll get there!

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