wirecounter
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Posts posted by wirecounter
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Does anyone know if this will work for the 550? Please let me know.
Aloha,
wc
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(From this day forward:you are not allowed to be in possession of nothing!)
I almost replied about the double negative, but I "got it." LOL
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Re-loading can become addictive also! Kinda like a hobby on a hobby. LOL
+1 to that! Pulling the blue handle in the man cave is a great get-away sometimes!
I started reloading rifle rounds to save money and get better accuracy. Really made a difference for .308 - 50 cents a round vs $1.00 or more per & 1/2 MOA if I am having a good day.
I recently (last 6 weeks) started reloading handgun rounds - 9mm and 38 special. Probably will purchase another 38/357 die set from Brian instead of fiddling with the 38 special set up.
I also started purchasing bullets in bulk, several thousand at a time, since, as someone else here said, prices are not going to go down. Just packed the extras in a fat 50 ammo can with a dessicant pack. Same thing for powder & primers since we pay a PREMIUM here in Hawaii as we cannot purchase powder (or primers) online and have it shipped here.
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I bought some (2500) once fired 223 brass from a source that I have purchased from before without any problems. This time, however, the brass had green corrosion inside and a few (hundred) had stuff stuck to the outside which looked like gum and sand.
Long story short, I bought the steel media and the Thumler's rotary tumbler and ALL the brass looks factory new. And, now I can see a few cases that show signs of head separation.
I am very pleased with my purchase although it does add a few minutes to my case prep. But, reloading has become a hobby for me so I am not concerned with rushing through the process.
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Even if you don't deviate from the load data, a chronograph would still be needed to verify that you are getting your expected PF out of your gun. The velocity they list is with their test gun. Unless you have exactly that same gun you could be above or below the published data.
Mahalo again!
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wirecounter, Load data gives the "minimum oal" and the pressures "they" encountered during testing at that oal.
If you load shorter than published, you don't have a guide for how much pressure will 'increase'.
If you load longer than published, pressures will drop; so that may require more powder to reach the same published pressures/bullet speed.
Stay in the "safe oal range", start low and work up. As said above, the safe oal range includes "what your gun" will accept.
In addition to guns functioning better at higher PFs, the powder usually burns more efficiently at higher pressures/PFs.
It's typical for lighter loads to burn dirtier/sooty and chrono ES and SD to grow. Titegroup is no exception.
Mahalo for the clarification. I was wondering about the short OAL listed in the load data compared with factory ammo and other OALs I have seen in these forums.
So I assume that a chrony would be essential if I plan to deviate from the published load information.
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ramshot tac meters great for me for my 223
+1 for TAC. Meters great for 223 & 308 and more importantly is the most accurate. Shooting Stag Arms Model 8 for 223 & Remington 700P for 308.
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I have spent a lot of time perusing through the 9mm Reloading section and it seems that most folks who are using 124gr FMJ & JHP bullets with Titegroup are loading their cases with 4.0gr to 4.2gr of powder. I have tried this load out of my G34 and I am getting around 140PF to nearly 150PF.
So why do so many people that use this load like to shoot it so hot? Wouldn't 3.6gr or so (achieving 130PF) be enough? Is it because by going this high you are getting better accuracy or is it something else?
Why is 4.0 to 4.2 considered hot? Recommended load range according to Hodgdon Reloading Data Center for 125 gr FMJ for Titegroup is 4.1 to 4.4 gr.
Unless you are thinking of plated or lead bullets which would be 3.6 to 4.0 gr.
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I started shooting .223 last year and got setup with an inexpensive Possum Hollow trimmer and a deburring tool, both of which could be used with a power drill adapter. For small batches, it works pretty well even if it is boring as anything. For swaging, I bought a press mounted device. After about a hundred cases, I said "blow this" and got a Dillon swager - much better.
Fast forward two months and I decide to go to a three day tactical rifle course to see just what I can do with this rifle and now I need 1200 rounds of ammo. Well, after about 200 cases, I said "blow this" and got a Dillon trimmer (thanks Brian for helping me get this so quick). After sizing, trimming, and swaging, I tumbled the brass and checked it and there was no need to deburr or champfer.
Slow forward to this winter. Shooting is over and it's time to prep brass for the new year. I've got about 1500 ,223 cases on hand so I get started. Man, what a giant PITA it is, which gets me to thinking, for all the cost of used brass, tools, cleaning supplies, electricity, and time, is this really worth all the bother? My conclusion is that it probably isn't, unless you are making small volumes of match ammo with really high tolerances. In that case, a hand trimmer and deburr and champfer is justified (and no offense to Dillon, I would not use a Rapid Trim for that).
I'm pretty sure that after this year, I'll likely sell my Dillon trimmer and just buy pre-processed brass. It's just so much easier for not that much more money.
Seems as if you are defeating the purpose of saving money if you only use your brass once and buy more brass. And if that is so, than you can buy bulk factory ammo for not much more . . . and it would be easier still (not trying to be a wise guy).
Trimming is simply a required step to ensure consistency and it is easiest with the RT1200B.
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Yes but won't stag take me well over budget?
Stag prices are pretty reasonable.
Also, Stag offers a life time warranty on their rifles. I called them to ask if their warranty included the barrel; their response was that they would replace the barrel for free once my groups opened up to 2 inches at 100 yards.
I own a model 8 & love it. Slightly over your budget (list price is $1,145), but it is a piston rifle and comes with flip up sights.
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What tumbler/media to use for cleaning brass?
Should I get new/used, what brand have a best warranty?
Grainger sells 40 pounds of corncob media for around $25.00. It is listed under "blasting media." They have two different sizes/grits, smaller number (grit) = larger media size.
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Hello guys,
im just starting out with reloading and I have a couple of rookie qwestions:
1. Is it necessary to clean pistol brass in a tumbler (9mm,.45)?
2. Cleaning primer pockets?
1. Yes.
2. No, but i keep a can of compressed air to blast out shavings from the primer seater from time to time.
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I have a bottle of Dillon case lube I bought 15 years ago. I add alcohol to it and it lasts forever. If you buy a bottle of Dillon lube fill it up with alcohol when you have used approximately 1/8 of the bottle. You can do this 30 + times and it still does a great job on the cases. The more you dillute it the eaiser it is to get off of the cases.
Mahalo for the great tip. I bought a spray bottle and mixed in the alcohol with the Dillon case lube ~ 4 to 1 mix. Works just like you said.
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I know you are suppose to wear eye protection and some say ear protection when you reload, but has anyone every personally had an incident that warranted such measures? Has anyone set off a primer while priming a case, loading the fill tube, picking them up from the tray? What happened? Any reloading explosions? Just how danger is this reloading activity?
Don't know anyone (personally) that had a primer go off, but why wouldn't you wear eye protection? Reloading is dangerous just like shooting or driving a car is dangerous. Key thing is to be consistent in your process and have NO distractions.
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I "stumbled" onto Brian's site while researching additional Dillon parts that I wanted for my recently purchased RL550B. I wish that I "stumbled" before I paid more than list (plus usury) from a local shop here in Hawaii. Although it is a great shop and owner, a few buck here & there add up to less ammo that I can buy.
I've already made 3 purchases from Brian and I appreciate his quick responses and very fair pricing, especially the freight charge for shipping to the middle of the ocean.
I've also gained insightful information from the forums.
A big mahalo Brian! You have earned ALL my future business.
Aloha,
Rod
Fix for the snapping shellplate on a 650
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Mahalo Sarge for your response! So the $39.95 turbo bearing from UniqueTek is definitely not worth it.
Aloha,
wc