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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

bushman66

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Posts posted by bushman66

  1. OK, have the shortened Easyloader in and its working fine. I replaced the roll pin with a piece of music wire. I cut the music wire a bit long on each end (~1/16").

    My question...this music wire was WAY too hard to peen the ends. Am I going to have any problems with the wire walking out of the hole?

  2. I just installed mine and it was a total PITA. I had the roll pin in there, but was afraid that it wouldn't hold, so replaced the roll pin with a length of music wire. THAT is not going to break, it is harder than the hinges of hell, it took a little mini pair of bolt cutters to cut it.

    My question is, I have read some guys have "peened" the ends of this wire, but I don't see how, it it so hard, I could not mushroom it. How did you guys that have done this peen the end?

    I ended up cutting it a bit long (~1/8" sticking out of each side) hoping that it won't "walk" out of the hole. The extra length didn't seem to affect anything, it worked fine playing with it manually.

  3. I've recently switched over to Slide Glide for my SA 1911 TRP which is my main USPSA competition gun. I have put about 1500 rounds through it so far without cleaning and it continues to run like a top. To say I'm impressed with Slide Glide is an understatement.

    Which leads me to my question...is anyone using Slide Glide on their 1100's? My 1100 (will be) purely a competition gun. If so, what parts specifically do you lube with SG and what parts with oil? I've heard that these guns like to be run pretty wet...which is why I want to use the Slide Glide. After 1500 rds, my TRP is still slick and greasy...

    Thanks!

  4. Quick question on disassembly of the 1100 as I start to fit the DMW easyloader to my 1100 TAC4.

    As I am doing the trial and error fit/file and refit to get the bolt release to trip in the last 1/8", does the entire shotgun need to be disassembled, or can I just drive the 2 trigger group pins out and drop the trigger group?

    Thanks, (sorry for the dumb question...couldn't find this anywhere and I'm a total newbie to the shotgun...)

  5. I had leading with the Missouri Bullet 230gr RN and Clays. Switched to LaserCast 200gr LSWC and W231. Both sized to .452".

    Not a scientific comparison I know, since I changed several things at once...

    FWIW, I have never had leading with ANY bullet (.38spl/.357; 44Mag/44Spl, and 45ACP) with LaserCast. If you buy them in lots of 6K, with the 10% internet discount, they are almost the same price as the Missouri Bullets.

  6. Howdy all...

    I'm gearing up to start shooting my 4" 686+ at our weekly steel match. I just plan to shoot as a Fun Gun initially, after shooting my 1911 for my official run. I also plan to shoot our monthly ICORE match.

    I just picked up 7 HKS speedloaders, and 3 double HKS universal pouches (unfortunately not a lot of speedloader gear for the 686+). I do plan to send the cylinder to TK Custom, for the moonclip conversion eventually if I enjoy revo shooting. My holster is a Safariland 568 paddle, the same holster I use for my 1911 and Glock in USPSA and IDPA.

    Right now, I know I'm not going to be setting any records for speed, I just want to learn to shoot and reload a wheelgun faster...and shooting paper at a range is boring. :D

    My load will be .38spl. 158gr Lasercast LRN and 4.0gr Unique.

    Anyone see any major flaws in my gear setup? I know the HKS speedloader holders aren't ideal, but I wasn't sure what else would work with the 7 shot HKS speedloaders...

    Thanks!

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