[Stoeger Magpul SGA adapter]

Does anyone have any fit comparisons, I am specifically looking for the differences in drop at heel, face and comb?

 

Pictures would be nice if you happen to have two side by side...

[Stoeger Extension - to clamp or not to clamp?]

POA = POI at 35 yards, no ill effects from the clamp noted.

[Stoeger Extension - to clamp or not to clamp?]

It looks to me like it needs a clamp of some kind.  I had a cheaper on in a box that I put on for now.  The end of the tube would move more under finger pressure than I felt comfortable with.   I can't imagine what dunking it in a dump barrel would do without it.

 

And yes, it's long.  About 2.75" past the barrel, but it does hold a dozen.  An extended choke is in the future and will make it "look" better, at least to me.

[Stoeger Extension - to clamp or not to clamp?]

I have reread the M3000 and the M3500 threads and done a lot of looking around, but I can't seem to find a consensus.  I see guns set up both ways, with and without the barrel extension clamp.

 

I know I could/should just get out and test it myself, but this is supposed to be a "budget" build, so if others can tell me whether the $$ clamp a ) affects accuracy with slugs and b ) is necessary on a +7 length tube, I would be happy to learn from their experience.

 

Thanks in advance for any and all information.  More details below if you care to read,

--Chris

 

Where I am so far if anyone is interested:

 

I am  building a 3500  with a 28" barrel because I thought I wanted the longer fore end and I got a "deal" on it.  I bought it slightly used and have polished the magazine tube.  Before I did anything else or spent more money on it, I shot a steel challenge match last night with it using Winchester AA 2 3/4 inches 2 3/4 dram eq 1 1/8 oz 7 1/2 shot 1145 fps which is a "lighter" load than the generic walmart stuff which comes in a 3 dram equivalent.  I only had one issue, during the second stage a shell ejected but a new one did not load.  I racked the action and continued without another hiccup.

I didn't have any of the low recoil low noise 980 fps stuff to try.  I would like to see how it acts, so I will take a box next time. My Saiga wouldn't run it and I don't think my Beretta 1201 fp does either.


Some observations:

It throws a really nice pattern with the modified choke

The standard bolt handle was fine the one time I racked it in a hurry

The safety is a little stiff and could probably benefit from a larger smoother button.

It's LONG and swings okay, but I may play with the cast and drop a bit to see if I can make it better.  I noticed myself shooting from more of a bladed stance than I do with the shorter gun.  That may be a result of the longer fore end which I thought I wanted, but I may be reaching too far out on it.  I need someone to watch me next time.  The 28" barrel gives enough room that a +6 tube will be basically flush  and +7 will only be about 1.5" longer  The +7 should allow me 12 in the tube, so depending on whose rules I am under, a quad load at the buzzer should be possible.

It's heavy and the mag tube and extra shells will make it more so.

The action cycles slower than the Beretta.  Not enough to slow you down anywhere but the plate rack, but I did notice it there. I shot one rack with the Beretta just to be sure and it was lots quicker(the action not necessarily me).

 

The +7 Nordic MXT kit and follower are on the way (i don't know that I needed the follower since mine was metal but the Nordic may be longer and thus better).  I will shoot another steel match with the tube in place and loaded to see if the additional weight effects anything.

 

If that pans out, we move on to the more "permanent" mods like opening the loading port.

 

 

[GLOCK 17/22 OPEN DIVISION CONVERSION]

One question that would help in your answer is what kind of spring combo are you running. Generally, factory ammo doesn't provide the gas pressure needed to make a comp work as designed. The powder burns too fast. I ran factory ammo for the better part of a year in .40, and 9mm and just practiced ALOT. By doing that, I learned to feel my way through the recoil process enough to be an effective shooter.

I agree with GT, try a different comp. I know guys running SJC's and I personally run a Carver 3 port and having tested the Jäger and the LWD comps, the gun does feel different between the 4. Remember that when running a comp, the bigger comp it is, the more pressure it will take for the comp to work as designed. Hope the info helps you, but in all reality, to get your gun to run flatter/tamer you'll need to reload some ammo, or get some reloaded for you. Ask Doug Carden of DCAmmo (a forum dealer here) to send you some of his major PF rounds to test and see the difference, or find a local dealer for Atlanta arms and ammo and test a box. They both load their .40's to make major and it does make a big difference.

PS- also remember to run only JHP's or TMJ/CMJ's. you'll thank me later.

I am currently running a 13 lb ISM recoil spring on a stainless guide rod. ZEV Tech Extra Heavy Trigger Spring,Reduced power Firing Pin Safety Spring and Reduced Power Firing Pin Spring (sorry I don't know the individual weights, I bought them together as a package) They seem to work well together in that reliability has been great. I am open to suggestions if you guys think a heavier or lighter spring might help.

I am going to try a different comp but was hoping someone had done some of the trial and error for me.

Great idea to contact Doug Carden. Email is on it's way to him.

Why only the jacketed bullets?

[GLOCK 17/22 OPEN DIVISION CONVERSION]

I'm sure someone more knowledge with loading .40 can chime in regarding a load that might allow for a flatter gun, maybe even though it isn't as soft.........in the mean time, you can always try to go with a more aggressive .40cal comp from SJC or Carver, they both sell a heavy ported version of their comps that will most likely tame recoil more than the LW does (may require recoil spring alterations).

Remember too though, the dot is never really going to "stay in the window"....it's not like shooting a red dot on a rifle. (at least, this is my experience and also what some of the Open M's and GM's I know have suggested to me). Take a look at this video of the dot tracking out of the window on a 2011 with full-size cmore

I have shot a borrowed .38 super Open gun with a sideways mounted CMore. It was a whole lot more like shooting my 22/45 than my G35 in terms of dot movement. I know I won't be able to duplicate that with factory ammo. What I am looking for, if it is out there, is a combination of factory load and comp that has worked well for others.

[GLOCK 17/22 OPEN DIVISION CONVERSION]

Is the gun not cycling with the comp/ammo combination or is just not mitigating recoil as much as you are wanting it to?

It runs fine, cycling any of the loads I have tried so far.

If I understand the terms correctly, it is shooting very soft, but not flat. The muzzle rises enough during recoil that the dot appears to leave the window. Recoil isn't bad but I find myself waiting for the muzzle to come back down and the dot to reappear in the window.

[GLOCK 17/22 OPEN DIVISION CONVERSION]

Nice write up.... it almost exactly documents what I did to my G35.

One question that I am struggling with is the comp. I am looking for a solution that will keep the dot in the window on my dovetail mounted fastfire.

Does anyone have any insight into a comp/commercial ammo combination that works in .40?

WWB 165 and 180 along with the Lone Wolf comp don't seem to be doing it...

[Which commercial .40 ammo for a compensated pistol?]

Thanks for all the input. I will give the CCI Blazers a shot (pun intended). I watched an open gun at a recent steel shoot. It was getting near dusk and the flame out of the top of the comp was pretty impressive.

Is there any way to verify what powder the various manufacturers use in their loads?

btw, MANY boxes of WWB 165s have found their way through the comp. I don't know that I will be able to feel or much less utilize the difference of a load that is optimized to produce more gas for the comp, but I do want to give it a try.

[Which commercial .40 ammo for a compensated pistol?]

After a lot of reading, I can't seem to find the answer to this question. "What is the best production ammo to use in a compensated pistol?" I am not set up to reload so I am looking for ammo that will make the most of the compensator I put on an aftermarket barrel in my G35. I am hesitant to call it an open pistol. At this point it is more just an experiment. I mainly shoot steel challenge and USPSA with it. I know the comp put me in Open and I am willing to learn to live with the humility this is going to teach me. Which brings me back to the question, is there viable commercial ammo that will do what I need/want, or should I befriend a reloader and see if they would be willing to teach me enough not to damage anything and try loading my own?

Thanks in advance,

--Chris

[hello]

Hi,

I have been lurking and learning since May. I grew up shooting and hunting but got out of it for a while as life and family consumed what little free time I had. As the kids (and me too I guess) are getting older, I am getting back into shooting. My middle son who is 23 now wanted to take a concealed carry class for Christmas last year. I took it with him and that got me started again. I have done a couple of USPSA matches, some steel shoots and lots of just target shooting.

I have some questions, so I will start another thread for those,

Great forum and I have and sure will learn a lot,

--Chris