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Posts posted by 21 guns
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I have the same issue. About half my .223 rounds don't go all the way in, need a little push, or stick so I have to push them out. Those same rounds drop right in and out of my Dillon gauge and chamber just fine in both my .223 ARs. I don't have any issues with my EGW pistol gauges but I just think the .223 gauge is off. I did call and talk to the guys at EGW but that didn't lead me anywhere.
Thanks Dirty Rod, makes me feel a little better. Are you referring to the Dillon headspace gage? From my understanding, it is not supposed to check case size, but just headspace. My fired brass even drops in fully. Maybe there are different Dillon gages?
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Trim to 1.750
Screw sizing die down to the shellplate, then overcam by 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
jj
Oh yea, get a JP guage and ditch the others, it is for Wylde chambers...
I will have to check on JP. Didn't even know they made a gauge.
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I don't have any experience with the EGW gages, but since your post has been sitting since tuesday with no response, I figured I'll chime in. I'm wondering if there isn't a problem with the .223 gauge ? I guess the question would be will a factory .223 round, gauge correctly in the EGW .223 guage ? If it doesn't, then you will know the gauge is bad.
Interesting thought. I did the experiment and here's what I found:
Factory Black Hills 77 grain ammo: all chambered in 223 EGW
Hornady 75 gr TAP FPD ammo: 4/20 did not chamber flush
Fiocchi 69 and 77 grain match ammo: all chambered
Federal Gold Medal 77 gr match: 1/20 did not chamber flush
Really makes you wonder, is this a factory tolerance issue or is the gage too tight?
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Hello,
I am getting frustrated with reloading 223 because one out of every 7-10 rounds (give or take) will not drop fully into my EGW 7-hole chamber gage. Specifically, I am using winchester 556 NATO once fired cases.
My set up:
-Dillon super 1050
-Dillon 223 carbide size / decapping die
-Redding competition seater
-Dillon crimper
My processing is as follows:
-decap with universal deapper
-tumble
-size
-trim to 1.76
Then start reloading as the processed brass with be swaged on the press.
I am using 75 and 77 grain bullets (hornady and sierra match king respectively), seating to OAL 2.255 (magazine length)
These rounds typically drop freely into the EGW 5.56 case gage, but NOT the EGW 223 gage. The base of the finished round typically sits just proud of the gage surface.
I have tried a redding small-base die, but have had similar results.
I have tried to tell myself to just use the 556 gage and call it a day, but the perfectionist in me can't let it go...
I am using a Wylde-chambered AR, so the "failed chamber gage" rounds will still run, but I am uncertain how much "no-go" to accept.
My questions:
1. Has anyone encountered this problem?
2. Anyone have experience with the EGW gages; are they simply too tight?
3. Is using 556 Nato brass causing any issues with the finished product fitting into a 223 case gage?
4. Suggestions with the press?
Thanks in advance
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Which dies?
Egw undersized and lee factory crimp. Hopefully one or both will resolve the issue!
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Thanks for the suggestions.. Maybe I'm stubborn but I have some dies on order. I will report back on how they work... It does make sense that the brass may bulge upon seating, especially if its a bit thicker. I'll see if I can resolve this issue.
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Yes, Dee Loo, I am using an STI barrel (2011). Even the rounds that don't fully chamber check in the EGW gage shoot fine from the gun, but its just annoying!!
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Usually when the round fails to drop into the chamber checker, it sits proud by 1-2 mm. My size / decap die is screwed all the way to the shell plate, then backed off just a bit. Weird thing is, the rounds usually drop into the checker after the swage station, so something probably is from the primer seating station and after. Granted some of the cases dont seat as loosely in the checker after the swage station... Maybe an undersized die would do the trick??
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Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone has experience with 9mm military brass. I am loading 9mm with military brass, mostly winchester. Using a 1050 press with dillon dies. I have the sizer and swagger set up so that the casing will fit into an EGW chamber checker.
Then the problems begin...
I have fiddled with the powder station (and the amount of belling) as well as the crimp station so that it is the lightest crimp that will drop into the chamber checker, but every 7-10 rounds will not seat fully into the EGW chamber checker. I have the OAL set such that the rounds are averaging in the 1.157-1.162 range. I have checked this on the barrel of my STI and it does not seem to be too long.
I am using 147 plated berry's bullets with N320 powder.
Is this a brass problem (I have tried commercial brass which seems to do a lot better!) or die adjustment problem?
Any help appreciated!
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I am new to reloading also. Currently loading 9mm. Got my Dillon over the summer...
My (limited) experience so far:
Primers: cci small pistol seems to work just fine
Powder: N320 works well; don't have much to compare to as my reloading buddies all swear by it!
Bullet: Loaded and tested a batch of 147 gr copper plated (berry's) vs. 124 gr fmj's, and am actually leaning toward the 124 grainers. Seems to be a bit softer shooting. Loading at approx 1.16 in. on both, just short of max length. Chrono'd them in the mid 800's fps.
Not sure if this helps you at all, but just my .02.
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Thanks for the responses. Anyone have any thoughts on xm193 versus other 55 grain factory ammo or is it simply testing each brand / weight ammo and seeing what your rifle likes?
Other question - it seems reasonable (and cost effective) to use whatever is cheapest for short distance targets and save the good stuff for longer range, but how do you plan for it during a match? Necessitate a mag change whenever there are longer range targets? Seems like a lot of thinking during a stage, especially when the brain turns to mush after the buzzer goes off!
XM193 has been banned from Ironman due to the effect on steel but it is allowed at other matches. I'm currently using American Eagle Tactical AE223 because Cabella's had it for about $280 a thousand. On a stage with short and long targets I'll load up my longrange stuff and if I have a known number of short targets first I'll put in the 55s for those targets. Otherwise I just shoot the good stuff at all the targets so I don't have to think about ammo during the stage. I have seen guys that change mags between the expensive and cheap ammo during a stage but that's too much monkey motion for me, I would rather use too much good ammo than worry about saving a few dollars and screw up the stage.
Doug
Always interesting how people choose the ammo they use. I agree with you - save some money but not at the cost of confusing your game plan! There's enough going on during a stage than to start planning mag changes based on ammo cost. Now if you only had ammo sponsorship....
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In my limited experience, I'm shooting 55grain out of a (piston) 16" 1:7 barrel and it seems to group well at 100 yards. I also tested a group with 75gr Hornady steel match, and it did not group as well. I always thought the higher twist rates would favor heavier bullets, but it may simply be - whatever your gun likes. ( or it may have just been shooter inconsistency!)
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Thanks for the responses. Anyone have any thoughts on xm193 versus other 55 grain factory ammo or is it simply testing each brand / weight ammo and seeing what your rifle likes?
Other question - it seems reasonable (and cost effective) to use whatever is cheapest for short distance targets and save the good stuff for longer range, but how do you plan for it during a match? Necessitate a mag change whenever there are longer range targets? Seems like a lot of thinking during a stage, especially when the brain turns to mush after the buzzer goes off!
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Hi all,
Just wondering how many 3 gunners use factory rifle ammo, such as xm193. Any thoughts on other factory ammo that is accurate? How does factory ammo compare with hand-loaded ammo, especially for the newbie 3 gunner?
Thanks
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I'm the friend he's talking about. It's NOT a midwest industries rail, it's a Samson Mfg tube and it is the ONLY smooth tube that will fit over the piston system. It can also be fitted with 2" or 4" strips of picatinny rail or a QD attachment for your sling. The fitting is super easy, instalation was all of 5 minutes. It's a great package and totally changed the feel of the rifle. The rifle in the video is an M6A2 with a 16" barrel. The tube is 12.37" long. It's a Samson Mfg Evo Rail.
Thanks for the info. Looked up the Samson site - any difference between the evolution series and the evolution EX series? Looks like the EX has a cutout at the front for the piston? How accessible is the piston with the rail? I appreciate it!
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Does anyone shoot an LWRC M6 rifle for 3-gun? If so, does anyone know if there is a smooth handguard available for the M6 rifles (like the VTAC)? A quad rail is cool, but for 3-gun, I'd like to consider a smooth handguard.
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Truly amazing; not even as much as a bobble in the technique. I'm thinking 7 fingers?
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Same problem I have being on the slimmer side, and I shoot Heavy Metal so real estate on the belt is really at a prime with 8-10 round handgun mags and 20 round rifle magazines. Having to maximaize space, I chose to go with the 6-shell strippers from California Competition Works instead of the 4-shell. But then came the problem that they are too long to be running in the front of your belt (quite noticable and painful when you have to go into a low position). So I looked into the chest rig and at the time, and maybe still is, the only one that were made were the Otto's. I wasn't too flattered with the flimsy platform and the lenght was just too much for my taste. I wanted something with a more solid backing so there is less movement when I grab the shells. My solution was to make one myself.
My chest rig has 3 6-shell stripper which is velcroed to the platform. I use velcro as I could still remove the strippers from the chest rig and use them on my belt. The rig's platform has a solid piece of lightweight corrugated plastic inside. I also made the straps adjustable and attaches to my belt on the back so the weigth does not pull it down the front. All in all, the materials (minus the shell strippers) cost me about $20.
I've been running the rig along with 2 other shell strippers on my belt for 3 years now averaging about 3 major and 5 local matches a year. So far, it has held up. I use it specifically for high round shotgun stages or when running with a lot of other gears on my belt. For the stages with low shotgun round, I use the stippers on the belt.
Wow, that rig looks awesome. Probably took some skills to put it together! Not sure if I could pull it off. I like that the velcro plate is just enough to get 3 shell carriers on it. Looks like there's enough room around the neck (I couldn't get my rig on over a ball cap and ear pro). Very sweet set up.
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So, being new to the whole 3-gun sport I am still figuring out what works well for me. I had the pleasure of entering my first competition this past memorial day weekend. Let's just say it was a "blast." (I know, ha ha..) Shotgun and pistol were one stage, with 18 shotgun targets, excluding 2 slug targets. Ran an M1 Benelli (borrowed), starting with 8 in the tube. Now, being on the skinny side (i.e. 32in waist), I dont have a lot of real estate on my belt, especially with pistol and 3mags. I used a velcro chest harness (I think it was Otto's) with 3 6 round caddies, which seemed to work OK. I didn't particularly like the feel or fit of the chest harness as the straps were flapping around on my back and the velcro "pad" was a bit too long, in my opinion. It would seem like a reasonable thing to simply use a chest rig that you could simply attach shell caddies to. Anyone have any opinions or suggestions? I saw some california competition caddies that were supposed to be molle compatible, but am not sure how secure they would be. Obviously I wouldn't want them to have much play in relation to the chest rig.
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Welcome! I am out of IL as well. Where abouts are you from?
I'm from the Decatur area, central IL. I apologize if my posts are strange or wind up in the wrong areas as I'm still figuring out how to use this forum!
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Hi all,
I'm a new member from Illinois - just wanted to say hi to everyone. This seems like a great forum to post questions and learn about topics I would not even know to ask about!
223 brass sizing problems
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
Hey thanks for all the suggestions folks. It gives me some things to try. My take away message is probably: if it cycles in your gun, don't drive yourself crazy just because the gauge says its not sized perfectly. Even with the press set up correctly, there WILL be a certain failure rate….