Magnus_no1
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Posts posted by Magnus_no1
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Has anyone ever used Accurate no. 9 powder for a 9mm load?
I have some on hand, but can't find any loading data on it.
Thanks,
Jim
It is way to slow for 9mm. Sell it and buy something else.
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Maybe i misunderstand. But are we talking about the normal crimping the case after bullet seating? And just do that harder?
If that helps it's great. But I don't understand why i should. You are making the bullet i a way smaller which to me would have the opposite effect.
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if your bullets are tumbling, please share your load and bullet recipe that you are using.
I tried a 147gr bullet from ARES. It's lead bullets whit som plastic coating. I use 3.3gr N320. About 25% tumble.
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Been have some issues with some softer bullets tumbling. But never shoot those bullets when the gun was new so I cant tell if it's the barrels fault. When I look inside the barrel I imagine the lands are not as sharp as they used to be. But since I have nothing to compare it to I'm not sure.
How much life can you expect from a barrel?
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That's the bullet I use for IDPA/IPSC/USPSA.
147gr Frontier CMJ
3.7gr/N320
OAL = 1.115"
Give me a PF of 131000 from my G17.
If you use Unique, then it's 3.9gr and the rest is the same.
wow 3,7gr thats what I use behind a 135gr bullet to make 130pf. Seems like the CZ barrels are tighter ore something.
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The TRS in all guns affects your split times. You may get a lighter trigger but find your splits slow down while you're waiting on the trigger to reset. I'm sure like all things, a good balance can be struck, but factor this into your decision making and by all means test a couple of different springs with a timer so you'll know for sure.
True, for most a lighter TRS also makes trigger freeze more common.
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Thanks. I actually got hold of some 124gr bullets of the same brand and model. And they shoot good. They are very even and well made. But if someone else have any more experience whith 147gr FP it would be appreciated.
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Tried this question in the 9mm forum but no response. So I decided to try here instead.
I like the feel of 147gr bullets and been shooting them for a while. The brand I used before I cant get anymore.
Thinking about the Plated Frontier 147gr FP. I have to buy at least 10k so I have no possibility of testing them prior to buying.
Anyone have experience whit that combo. Use N320. Mostly concerned about accuracy.
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I like the fell of 147gr bullets and been shooting them for a while. The brand I used before I cant get anymore.
Thinking about the Plated Frontier 147gr FP. I have to buy at least 10k so I have no possibility of testing them prior to buying.
Anyone have experience whit that combo. Use N320. Mostly concerned about accuracy.
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I think this thread is missing one very important issue. Tweaking
this spring is the easiest way to improve trigger pull. When you do this you weaken the spring by putting abnormal tension on it. I think that's one big reason for i to brake. -
For what i can understand it should work. Been interested for the 6.5G a wile. But have no experience. But I think 1-8 and 1-7.5 is preferred whit the heavier bullets. check the compensator/suppressor if there is one so the bullet don't hit anything. If not my first step would be to try a lighter bullet. Or maybe a different powder. But that's more of a long shot.
My best guess is that the design of the rifling itself in combination whit twist rate and bullet, and bullet speed is causing it. And there is only two parameters you can change easy. The other two is tuffer
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I know two things that was a problem for me. For one, Use .356 diameter bullet if it's the softer copper plated bullet. The .355 is impossiblto get shooting. I Europe the copper plated bullets are very common. I don't know if it's that common in the US.
And one other thing that I already new and that's kind of embarrassing. I have been crimping by bullets a bit to hard. I did not realize this because I am not used to the copper plated bullets. The bullets give in very easy. I notised this when I took one bullet out because the primer was inserted up side down. And the bullet was damaged by the crimp. Stupid me
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Interesting how different people have such different experiences...
Interestingly, there may be a biological reason for this, too - I have some theories, but nothing I can prove. It's on my list of stuff to write up in a blog post at some point
biological!!. English is my second language so maybe I misinterpreted. I hope so anyway.
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I have 2 RL1050s and 1 Super 1050.
They all load small and large primers just fine.
However, I do have a small primer slide that seems to need a chamfer or a larger hole for the primer and punch to pass through. As is, it will not allow the primer to move up through it. If I hold the slide down and put it just the right spot, the primer punch will pass through.
I do know that if any thing out of the ordinary happens, whether it relates to the primer system or not, I have to take the primer system apart and reinstall it.
The slide has to stop exactly under the primer tube so a primer will drop. If it slides even a little past perfect alignment, you will not get a primer. Also, I am sure that you covered it and being multiple machines means that you probably have an issue the Dillon should be actively working on, the plastic tip of the primer feed tube must be in perfect shape and not twisted even a little bit.
The whole swing-arm system seems to work only with everything perfectly aligned. Once it is working, it will keep working for thousands or rounds (or until the press hiccups).
However, it is almost as good as my L-N-L primer feed system which only had a problem loading the last primer (fixed with the Dillon rod).
My Super 1050 seems to work 99,99% now. And the very few problems i now have with primers is more likely related to inferior brass. I use random 9mm bra I pick from the ground. I prep it good, but it will never get 100% whit that type of brass. And it's not much the 1050 can do about that.
When I am certain my modifications work 100% I will post it here whit pictures. I have to load som more to be sure.
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VV N105 is not made for that caliber. that's basically why. It is used (but not made for) to optimize the effectiveness of compensators in 38s. The more powder you fill the larger the muzzle flash will be. that's it. The powder is to slow and the barrel to short. N105 is a rifle powder. All VV powders starting whit 1 are made for rifles.
Use 3N38 or N350. And my personal favorite 3N37. Then you would also get rid of the powder spilling in shellplate issue you probably have.
Untrue. VV's guide lists N105 in their Handgun Powders section, and describes N105 as: "Super Magnum: Slow burning handgun powder filling the gap between N350 and N110. Especially developed for handgun cartridges with heavy bullets and/or large case volume. Reloading data is currently available for the following cartridges: 9x21mm, .38 Super Auto, .357 Mag, .357 Rem Maximum, 40S&W, 10MM Auto, .41 Remington Mag, .44 Remington Mag, .45 Colt, .45 Win Mag and .454 Casull."
I daubt VV would recommend anyone to fill a case and push down the bullet in the powder and tell the customer. You have to crimp the bullet hard to get it to stay there. Otherwise it will pop out. I don't live that far from where they make it. So I could ask
Sometimes its better to just realize that people have a different opinions.
But I am not in any way saying N105 don't work perfect for many probably successful shooters.
Maybe you just appreciate different things. I like to keep it simple and just shoot instead of pushing it to the limit where you probably ends up with other problems related to that. Spilling powder, bullet popping out, bullets that don't go faster when you put more powder in. And use that time to maybe exercice my hands. Take a look at the movie above. Do you notice anything particular? I do. Maybe N110 would fix it
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Guns normally ship with 6.0mm front sometimes 6.5 if the POA need altering.
Not 5.5mm
Okay, here in Europe all are 5,5.
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Thank you for that explanation. Makes sense. You made at least me to think some more about this. It's actually a rather complex issue.
And since the standard sights, as far as i know only comes in 0,5mm steps I understand the choice of 5,5mm. But if there were, let's say.... a 5,8mm sight available I think maybe that's what would be delivered by default. Because the 5,5mm just shoots to high for all that to work. At least with all the bullets and loads I have tried. And that is quiet a few now.
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I don't agree
. There is defiantly enough data to confirm that N105 has nothing more to give in this setup (Please take a look at the 115gr data and think about it a bit longer). If some ones life depended on it I would test some more. If not I would be satisfied and move on.I know several folks making that load work, and (as I stated in my previous post), there are other issues to look at when loading such a slow powder in such a compressed load. If it wasn't N105, I'd tend to agree, but you obviously do not have experience with this load combination...
I think we both are right in the technical part of it. And you probably have more experience the me in this particular load. But I would never use a load showing that kind of symptoms. I just don't understand why, when you can use a powder made for such a load. That's what I basically mean.
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I don't agree
. There is defiantly enough data to confirm that N105 has nothing more to give in this setup (Please take a look at the 115gr data and think about it a bit longer). If some ones life depended on it I would test some more. If not I would be satisfied and move on. -
VV N105 is not made for that caliber. that's basically why. It is used (but not made for) to optimize the effectiveness of compensators in 38s. The more powder you fill the larger the muzzle flash will be. that's it. The powder is to slow and the barrel to short. N105 is a rifle powder. All VV powders starting whit 1 are made for rifles.
Use 3N38 or N350. And my personal favorite 3N37. Then you would also get rid of the powder spilling in shellplate issue you probably have.
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By the way, thinking about buying S&B SP primers and use it whith 9mm and Super 1050. Anyone whith experiece.
or 
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I must have gotten lucky as I have loaded small primers on both a RL1050 & Super1050 with no issues.
You just proved my point
There is nothing wrong with the gear. But the consistence of it being adjusted correctly from factory is lacking.If you have experience and like mechanics and stuff there is nog big issue. But if you don't then
But should you then buy a 1050 in the fist place. In my opinion....NO -
.355 Plated has never worked for me.
.355 Jacketed or .356 for lead or plated is my prefference.
Thanks for that intel. I will try some .356 TC 124gr bullet this weekend.
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I've spoken to Angus & Rob at CZ Custom about this and had it explained...Yes, inside of 10 yards the bullet impact may be a bit high but if you're trying to shoot a plate rack or head shot at 20+ yards and you don't want to cover the entire plate or head with your front post it's the route to go.
I wasn't quite sure about that logic until I went to this years Blue Ridge Mountain 3 gun match and had to shoot gongs anywhere from 35-70 yards and 4"x4" steel at 10-30 yards. I can tell you it was nice to be able to see the majority of the target while I squeezed off a round.
Same match I watched an open shooter shoot 72 rounds on one stage because his 11 MOA dot covered the entire target and he didn't have it sighted in for small targets at long distances. A couple of glock guys I know that were set up for IDPA wished they had thinner, lower front sights for all the small targets after the match. My Shadow just kept knocking them down though.
Well I don't agree. Why should you cover the entire plate or target at 20y? you should cover half of it and hitting the center that way. If this was true then you have to adapt where to aim on a target depending on how far it is
For example: aiming in the bottom of targets at 30y, and around center at 10y. and then still hitting a little high. If you have this problem you should fix it whit a thinner front sight instead, that is the correct solution if you ask me. The gun have to hit where you aim 
. And whit iron sights that can almost be true at any distance (if we don't care about bullet drop). PS: you have around 4" bullet drop in 70y.
Fells kinda stupid to question Angus and CO. But you still have to say what you think.
this spring is the easiest way to improve trigger pull. When you do this you weaken the spring by putting abnormal tension on it. I think that's one big reason for i to brake.
. There is defiantly enough data to confirm that N105 has nothing more to give in this setup (Please take a look at the 115gr data and think about it a bit longer). If some ones life depended on it I would test some more. If not I would be satisfied and move on.
or 
. And whit iron sights that can almost be true at any distance (if we don't care about bullet drop).
Accurate no. 9 powder
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Wow 10.5gr in a normal 9mm load!!! Thats extreme. I guss any powder works if you only want the bullet to fly at any cost.