Geezer
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Posts posted by Geezer
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the sr# could be custom so you may not be able to compare it to other sr#'s
It is a custom gun but the frame is STI so it should fall in some numerical sequence indicating when the frame was produced I would think.
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its an old one and not worth anyting, I will give you 50 bucks for it.
very nice clean looking.
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Give STI a call and ask them if they could do a serial number check for you.
They should be able to tell you when the frame was manufactured and who the original purchaser was.
As for the actual completion of the gun, can't help you there. I had two frames with CMxxxx serial numbers and didn't assemble them till a few years later.
Thanks for the response. I did speak to STI and apparently this frame predates their computer database and couldn't help me other than to say it was made before they moved their factory from Austin.
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I have one that is in the 1700's but it is SS. In addition it is not marked 2011 on the notch. Further more, there is no notch where the 2011 is stamped. Mine is a Strayer Tripp International frame that was built by Dave Pruitt in 1993-94 time frame. So yours is newer than 94 time frame. Great looking gun though. Good luck with your search.
Thanks for that information, it's appreciated.
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Recently I posted a request for info on the approximate age of my STI 2011 Limited gun. Pictures were requested so here they are. The only markings not shown here are on the bottom of the dust cover where it is marked:
STI International
Austin Texas
I am trying to date this gun and would like to hear from anyone who has a 2011 with a ser. # in the 1700 range or thereabouts and knows it's age.
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Can't help with the age of your gun but see the following link for the history of the 2011 development. The 2011 design was introduced at the shot show in 1992 by Trip Reasearch inc. and several years later was renamed STI international.
History of the 2011 development
MDA
Thanks for the link. Very interesting read. So I gather the original 2011 was not an STI product. I'm still very interested to find the approximate date of manufacture of my STI the details of which are in the OP. Any help will be much appreciated.
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I have recently purchased a custom 2011 Limited gun and am trying to ascertain it's age. It has a full dust cover, no markings on the slide. The only markings on the frame are
Left side: 2011, Ser. # EM 176X
Bottom of Dust Cover: STI International
Austin Texas USA
No other markings.
I spoke to tech support at STI but it predates their computer database so they couldn't help me. I'm wondering if any one has a similar gun with this approximate ser. # and knows it's dob, or has owned it for at least 20 years. Also interested in knowing when the 2011 was first introduced.
Thanks
Jack
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We have wayyyyyy cooler utility belts though.
That sir is a matter of opinion!
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For ICORE I use 160 gr. RN Bayou Bullet, 2.7 gr Tight Group, Fed Primer, 1.174 OAL which chrono'd at 780 fps with SD=7 in a 5" 627 at 42 deg. F
2.9 gr gave 815 fps SD= 15
3.0 gr gave 830 fps SD= 8
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I have a SW 340 PD with several hundred rounds through it. I would like to take it apart, clean and lube it (BE Slide Glide). This would be my first time at this and I would like to actually get it back together properly. I do have screw driver bits that fit the screws. If anyone has advice or diagrams that would help it would sure be appreciated.
STOP!! Bill N. is right--don't put Slide Glide or any other grease in a revolver action, especially one that you might need to rely upon for self-defense.
Do yourself a big favor and don't take your gun apart. Seriously. Clean the gun externally, including brushing the chambers and bore, make sure everything is clean and dry under the extractor, and that's it. Maybe put one drop of synthetic motor oil on the yoke barrel where the cylinder turns. I wouldn't even put oil in the action--you really don't need it on a carry gun.
FYI, in case anyone was wondering, I do follow my own advice on this! My primary carry J-frame (a S&W M-337) has never had its sideplate off! The yoke screw has never been loosened, the factory threadlocker is still in place. The gun functions perfectly, the DA is heavy but perfectly fine for a carry gun, and I know it's going to function in the unlikely event that I ever need it.
That's my advice.
I agree 100% Leave it alone. It certainly doesn't need tinkering with at this point. I bought my first revolver 40 years ago, and currently own and shoot dozens of them. Never have had the need to take the side plate of any of them and they all shoot 100% reliably. You wanna tinker go work on your car or truck
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I used a Bear Creek 158 gr round nose. They actually weigh around 160 to 162. The last couple years at the IRC I used 2.9 gr of Ramshot Competition powder and made 130-133 power factor. These loads are very accurate and had not problem hitting the X ring on the standards if I did my part. I don't remember what lenth I loaded them to. I used Starline brass and Fed small pistol primers. This was out of my 5" SW 627.
I've never used that powder but 2.9 gr. Titegroup under a 160 gr.RNL Bayou Bullet with an OAL of 1.174 I got a 130 PF out of my 5" SW 627
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I've settled on an OAL of 1.20 in the short case which is a reduction of 0.35" or about 23% from my 38 spcl load.
Yes and no. You've reduced your OAL by 23% but you have a greater reduction of trapped/effective volume. The volume in the case under the bullet base.
And that's exactly why I was concerned and started this post.
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Reduce the load with the shorter OAL. I don't use TG but can give a comparison using Solo 1000. .38 special, 147 gr coated TC, 4.4 gr is ~890 fps with a 1.410 OAL. Short brass, 1.200 OAL, needs 3.9 gr to go ~890 fps. Your case volume change is greater so the percent of charge reduction should be greater. To start I'd try maybe 2.8 gr TG if you're using 3.9 @ 1.55 OAL. Load a couple, chronograph them, then adjust.
Thanks for adding your input Tom, this info is very helpful. I've settled on an OAL of 1.20 in the short case which is a reduction of 0.35" or about 23% from my 38 spcl load. So if I reduce my powder charge by 23% to 3.0 it should be a good start point. In your case you dropped your OAL by 15% and your powder by 11% to achieve the same PF. So I might have to bump it up above 3.0 but it seems safe to start there.
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Always work your load up, I wouldnt just trust any data you find on the internet. It gives you an idea of where you want to end up at,. but definitely dont start there.
Yes of course. I think this would be a potentially dangerous load in such a short case, Just really looking for validation on that and perhaps a starting point to use. I'm thinking start at 3.3 gr.
Hodgon lists a MAX load of 2.7 gr under a 135 gr LRN and an OAL of 1.135 which leads to a PF of 102,600 I'm thinking this might be conservative since this is an old cartridge and might be fired in an old gun. Under the 135 gr bullet the PF should (by interpolation) be 125,000 using 3.3 gr of TG
I'm just not sure how to factor in the longer OAL and heavier bullet.
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Thanks to info I found on this forum, I just completed set-up of one of my SDB presses to load 38 Short Colt for use in my 627-5 PC open gun that I use in ICORE. I have been loading 38 Spcl brass with 160 gr RNL Bayou Bullet and 3.9 gr Titegroup with an OAL of 1.55. This combo gives me a PF of 130. Searching this forum I found a recipe for short colt using a 170 gr RNL molycoated bullet and 3.9 gr Titegroup with an OAL of 1.24 (no PF given).
It appears to me that with 3.9 gr TG in the shorter case there would be almost no dead air space. I really need some assurances on this (one way or the other) before I load and shoot this. What think Ye ?
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Thank G, that was very informative. It's more than I found by searching but I wasn't very serious about it at first. Then after doing some practice sessions yesterday and seeing how terrible my reload times are, I'm going to make that switch.
Yup I hear ya. Maybe grasping at straws but I hope this will minimize the fiddling and fumbling trying to reload those long .38's on the clock.
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Do a search in the revolver forum.
I have done several searches on both the revolver forum and the reloading forum, and read just about every post they brought up. (That's how I found the info on the dies I needed). However I m looking now for specific info on a bullet/powder combination that did not turn up in those searches.)
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Funny you mention this, I have been searching for ICORE related material about using .38 Short Colt in my 627. We are starting an ICORE match at my local club and I plan on making the matches.
Do the Hearthco clips work with the Starline .38 Short Colt? What dies did you end up with? What do you use to load your moon clips?
I am looking for loads too so please pass on anything you or anyone else has and I will do the same.
Thanks
Yes the Hearthco clips work especially well with the Starline brass. I am using a Dillon SDB that I used for .38 Spcl. I bought a new SDB Quick Change Kit which consists of the auto powder system and a new tool head kit. (I did not want to mess up the settings on my .38 Spcl dies....wanted to just remove the tool head and powder system in one piece and pop on the .38 short colt system) That cost $95.95. In addition I bought the "powder funnel F Pistol" their part # 13806 (&14.95) and a 9mm round nose seat stem part # 12313 ($7.95) and a 9mm crimp insert (die) ($22.50).
I use the Moonclip Tool from mooncliptool.com (Make sure you get a mandrel specifically for the hearthco clips (regular .38 mandrell will not work with them).
BTW do a search for .38 short colt on the revolver forum and on the reloading forum. There's a whole lot of info there (just not much that I could find on TiteGroup
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This is probably my first thread started on this forum though I have been reading new posts daily for a long time. Generally when I come here with a question to post, a quick search gives me the exact answer I am looking for thus negating the need to post my question. Though I have searched for an answer to this question on several occasions, I've not found an answer here.
I have been shooting ICORE for a year now using a 5" 627- 5 PC Open gun using 160 gr Bayou Bullets with 3.9 gr TightGroup in .38 Spcl. I've used a variety of moon clips including Hearthco, and have had the usual frequent difficulty reloading during the stress of a match. Had the chambers chamfered which helped a bit but still not as smooth as my 625. I've decided to switch to .38 Short Colt and have acquired the requisite dies to reload that caliber (thanks to info provided by a search on this site). I will be using Starline brass and Hearthco moon clips with Federal primers. Though I'd like to use VV320, it's very hard to find in my area. Since I use Tite Group for .40, .45ACP, .38 Spc, .45 LC, and .32 H&R Mag., it makes sense to me stick with it. Not to mention I have a Ton of it on hand.
The only thing close that I found in my search on this board was a recipe using 170 gr LRN and 3.9 gr Tight Group with a COAL of 1.24 (didn't give PF or velocity)
What I'm looking for is load data for 160 gr LRN (Bayou Bullet) and Fed primer including COAL that will give me a PF of between 120 and 130
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Thanks everyone!! That makes it one less thing to worry about until I start loading..
BTW, I got the sweetest deal to start me off to reload 12g. My friend sold me a pretty much brand new MEC 9000, about 2000 hulls, 6000 wads, 4000 primers, and about 600lbs of #7-8 shot for $400. Pretty sweet, right?
"Sweet Deal"is a gross understatement. If you went out and bought twenty-four 25Lb bags of shot at retail today it would cost you in the neighborhood of $1000-$1200
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This has never been a problem for me, I just run all my brass though my SDB an shoot it though any of my guns.
When I first started reloading .40 I had a hard time with glocked range brass. I was not lubing the brass then and a call to Dillon set me straight. Since I've started to use "One Shot"lube on the cases, I have had absolutely no problems. I use one of my SDB's and the resulting cartridges chamber in my custom STI Limited 2011. I've loaded and shot about 5000 rounds of range brass without a hiccup. I don't even bother chamber or gauge checking my finished rounds. If they go thru the SDB, they'll work in my gun. (With my luck, having said that, I'll probably have all sorts of problems this weekend!!)
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I have one from when I joined in 2002
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180 gr. Bayou TC in a custom Edge Limited gun
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I shoot a 627 PC in ICORE Open and had been using a set of Pachmyr Grippers but found them better than the Hogue N frame grips but just a little too thin. I just replaced them with the Model 500 grips. These fit me much better and I like the different grip angle. Since I live in western Mass., I stopped by S&W and picked them up. I'll be putting a set on my 625 PC as well.
That 2011 I was asking about--images
in 1911-style Pistols
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Yes that is a possibility but it is also the custom that, excepting for a special order, the first two letters are the initials of an employee of STI or so I have been told. Clearly the best bet would be for STI to research the ser. # for me but since it predates their computer database, that would take a lot of manual searching of written records on their part which they don't seem willing to do.