Nichvegas
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Posts posted by Nichvegas
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Is anyone running .243 Win in their AR-10 platforms? I'm thinking about buying a barrel because that is the only part I don't have. That way I can use my DPMS lower (with JP trigger and Magpul PRS stock) and the same BCG. Is there a feeding prob or something I am missing? I know several guys run .243 in precision bolt guns.
Also, what barrel is everyone's favorite? I've heard many good things about Lilja. My .308 upper started as the very heavy DPMS bull barrel, but has been turned down and JP adjustable gas block added along with a JP handguard.
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I haven't read all the pages, but for .223 Benchmark meters extremely well in a Dillon meter.
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I live in an area where cool appears to be measured by the loudness, and volume of black smoke that bellows from your pickup truck. I love pickup trucks, but I liken filling my cabin with black fumes to criminal trespass. With windows up and air conditioning on recirculation, it still gets in.
With diesel over $4.00 per gallon here, do they not care that black smoke equals unburned fuel?
Also, are these guys thinking that driving around with their mirrors sticking out two feet on each side of their truck while not pulling a trailer compensates for other things?
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Love my DPMS. It's not stock, but it does the job. You can get a barrel turned down, cut, and threaded for not much money so that you have it like you want it.
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Matt and his work are both top-notch. He allways over-delivers with perfect work.
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I had the same weirdness in my RL 1050 a while back. I pulled the main bearing out clenaned it and packe it with dillon grease now all the thinking is gone.
Might be overkill to pack the bearing with grease everytime this happens but I am willing to live with it for a while longer. At least until I buy another press. Once I have another 1050 up and running I will send this old RL in for a rebuild.
Retread.
My only issuses have been with a dirty primer feed slide and having the shell plate too tight. I use Tetra Gun grease under the shell plate and under the retainer nut. It really smoothed it out.
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I have to admit, I was almost afraid to click on this post on my work computer.
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Been waiting about 7 weeks on my order now. Well wort the wait when they do arrive. Great bullets.
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It's great having him as an instructor and to set the benchmark at local matches. The hard part is figuring out how to beat him.
I sold him a gun without a firing pin and he still beat me.
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The range is in Eastern time zone correct
Yup.
So does that mean my times should be faster or slower than usual?
After extensive research and after applying the following equations:
V = Vo + at
X - Xo = Vot + .5at^2
v^2 = vo^2 + 2a(X - Xo)
X - Xo = .5(Vo + V)t
You may be surprised to find that time zone has virtually zero effect on USPSA output times and scores.
Hence, the only reasonable conclusion one can draw is that you will certainly finish approximately 1 hour sooner than someone in the adjacent US time zone shooting at the relative "same time".
And I thought I was the only nerd shooting the match.
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Thanks guys!
Went to the range today. Got a older model, 08, SP01 Shadow Custom. You can tell the tweeks done to this gun over the standard shadows. The slide is silky smooth, the trigger is just a hair better, it will get better though. Shot everything I feed it as expected. I need a taller front sight though to bring the POI down a smidge and other than that this gun is ready to rock. Well after I swapped out the safeties and magazine release :-)
So you finally did find a use for that extra extended mag release
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I have one with a medium weight barrel and it groups as well or better than my Remington 700 with a 5R barrel. Never a malfunction.
I think one of the reasons they can offer a great rifle for less money is that they dont seem to spend tons on advertising.
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The older models have a different motor than what is used now but you can use the new motor on the older models. The only difference is the capacitor shape but it will still fit. I have the older model and it died after less than 3 years. Dillon gave me an option to replace it with the old motor design for $100 vs the new one for $50. Easy choice. If you could install the motor yourself, save the back and forth shipping fee and have them send you just the motor.
If you talk with someone who tells you otherwise, don't believe them. I talked with 4 different people and got 4 different answers before I finally got a hold of someone who knows what they are talking about. One guy told me they won't sell me just the motor and I had to send in the whole thing and didn't give me motor options.
I have nothing but 100% praise for Dillon's Customer Service. But if you wore the motor out, you may be able to find a replacement locally such as Grainger or other electrical supply shop for a little less.
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Fairly inexpensive, BAMF SS. I used to say no hacksaws were harmed....can't say that on this one. I broke my blade making another grip safety jig out of 1/2" bar stock. So far I've used a drill press, dremel and files. Oh and a chamber reamer if you're keeping track. When the time comes, I WON'T be tri-topping this with files.
MSH is temp. Considering doing something I said I wouldn't.
Making another set of grips from Micarta. It's 8 hrs with my tool set.
I have some grips that will save you 8 hours if you want to undercut my trigge guard (jut straight)
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I dream of sub .20 splits. You guys make me mad
The worst part is that he makes it look easy.
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Like my smith said, there is no such thing as a drop in trigger for a 1911. Sure it CAN drop right in and work but a smith can make it better. There is just to many variances between frames and parts out there. Get good parts, find a good 1911 smith, and let the trigger be what you want.
So is the local smith still distracted by filing down a CZ or can he move on to important things like my gun?
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I took my Fathers 390 out and it would not cycle. It would fire and the next shell would only get half way into the chamber. It felt sticky inside of the reciver so I cleaned it and the rest of the gun. Now for the new problem. While hand cycling the bolt it will eject the shell in the chamber but the carrier will not even pick up the next shell from the tube. It just stays in the tube. What have I done to cause this and how do I fix it?
I can't remember if the 390's have the magazine cutoff button on the left side of the receiver. That would hold the shells in the mag. Can you see what is holding the shells in the tube?
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Try the EGW ULTIMATE TRIGGER KIT. You will not be disappointed. The best value on the market.
With optional Doug Koenig hammer or EGW.
Thanks,
Robby
One of your nine sponsors Robby? ahem.
Yes the EGW kit is good, but the sears are NOT drop in. They only have primary angle cut, no secondary. The ball type disconnect may need to be fitted to the disconnect hole in the frame. I've had all but one, not even come close to fitting in the hole. THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT of that disconnector. To be fitted to the frame hole. The sear spring is a good one, but if installed as it ships it will not deliver a 2# trigger.
To the OP, a 2# drop in trigger does not exist. You will need to work it to achieve that. Even then, there is no gaurantee that it will function properly. If you change to an EGW hammer, be prepared to change the thumb safety. The EGW hammers are excellent and I use them, but they have a slightly different geometry (which is why they are good).
Those EGW triggers must be very tedious to install. My 1911 and EGW kit have been with my favorite local gunsmith for several days now awaiting it's new trigger.
New Semi auto precision rifle build done.
in Precision Rifle
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Very nice rifle. I am running the same comp on my .308. It's loud, but I never lose sight picture.