at_liberty
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Posts posted by at_liberty
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SD1 - I didn't buy a progressive press only to have to size and decap off the press, handling twice. For my handgun needs, I wash brass and tumble with spent primers intact.
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Lead won't do much good in that AR...
No, I'm good. I also have gas checks and a gas check mold for lead bullets, including 22 cal. I have gas checks for 45, 44, 35, 30, and 22 along with the molds to match.
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How about don't reload and don't shoot but have all the reloading equipment and supplies, including shot shell, handgun, and rifle? Part of that is prepper thinking, not having (yet) much interest in my AR-15, but being prepared to both cast and reload for it.
The same is true for other calibers. I have acquired new calibers and types of guns fast enough that I don't yet have them all to the gunsmith for optimizing.
I like to shoot handguns more than my shotguns and rifles, so my main activity in reloading is .45 ACP and .357 Magnum Lite. I could be heavy into shooting .45 Colt but am waiting for a couple new dies intended to reduce leading. I finally have the .45 Colt throat diameters properly matched with those of the barrels and a nice trigger job on my New Vaquero.
The point though is that there is a lot of equipment here, because it is my hobby to have it, not necessarily use it. Every gun can be fully supported, if the supply market goes away, unless I run out of gas checks, which doesn't seem likely. What I don't have yet is an iron pot to melt lead over a campfire. Electricity cannot be taken for granted. I do have 150 pounds of #2 alloy lead, molds for each caliber/gun, and even a #4 buck mold for my .410 Coach Gun and mating Judge. I guess carting around a supply of lead could present quite a challenge, but little more than a large supply of ammo would....it just needs to be divided into manageable packages.
Things have to change, and it will likely happen soon.
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I found this question and did my own search, preferring something available for Kindle and then confining myself to Amazon. I chose the Vol 1 by Sweeney, [Gunsmithing - The AR-15].
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It doesn't make sense to use an FCD expecting .451 on bullets that are .452+ and soft enough to swage rather than jam the die and press. What you can do to help ensure chambering is to use that FCD sizing ring in the Bulge Buster, which can do .45 ACP as well as .40 S&W. But for loading lead in general, you need a different brand of crimp die. I use Redding carbide.
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Forget about ammo that was tailored for you 1911. Just make standard stuff or prove out the 625 with store bought. You need a Max Cartridge gauge, when supporting more than one gun in a caliber, and which you intend to share ammo. Don't get into lead bullets just yet, because that will complicate any questions about function.
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Green Dot is one you might find. Alliant is now marketing powders targeted for handguns, downplaying use of its shotgun powders for handgun loads, but Green Dot has a history as a good medium burner for handguns.
Personally, I have a good supply of Power Pistol, HS-6, and I guess an actual collection of at least one pound of many possibilities, but I doubt I could find them right now, and doubt you would do much better.
Green Dot loads for 9mm, taken from an older Alliant Reloader's Guide:
115g FMJ, 1.12 COL, 4.7g, 1150 fps
125g FMJ, 1.15 COL, 5.2g, 1150 fps
125g Lead, 1.15 COL, 5.2g, 1165 fps
147g XTP, 1.14 COL, 3.7g, 930 fps
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I must just be lucky, but I've loaded buckets of LEO .40 range brass (all Glock'd) thru a std Lee .40 carbide sizing die and they all run thru my 2011 just fine. I've come across a few that won't case gauge 100%, they go in the practice bin and run fine too at the range.
Then a loose fitting chamber could impact performance.
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Loading .40 S&W is not worth the aggravation unless running everything through the Redding G-Rx, including loaded ammo made previously or bought "remanufactured" and giving some failures to go into battery. I suggest getting the carbide version and then avoiding the lube requirement.
I have done all this and can offer that, for me, the U-die is counterproductive because it sizes .001 smaller. Yes, it has a radius to hide transitions, but who says you need more neck tension and an even larger bubble at the web area?
I use the dual ring on .45 ACP but only because of slightly larger lead bullets. I don't use lead in .40 S&W, so the special die isn't needed. The street price BTW is $100. It might actually work on .40 but would be a luxury until using lead.
What you're seeing now does no real harm IMO until rounds fail to go into battery or better yet, fail gauging. You really should use the G-Rx or gauge (or barrel) check EVERY round.
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The M-die does both a standard expansion and an oversized expansion of the first 1/16" at the case mouth. I use it to get bevel-based bullets to stand straight for seating without finger pinching. It works nicely. I'm glad I have it.
On my 5-station L-n-L AP, to make room for the die I removed the powder check, once a Powder Cop and more recently am RCBS lockout. I look in every case anyway, since I don't use a bullet feeder and have provided special lighting.
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First, I would check the sizing die and the case measurement [after sizing]. Subtract twice the case wall diameter to derive the ID for the bullet insertion.
Secondly, investigate availability of a larger sizing die. What you have now is for .40, while you are trying to stuff an extra .001 in there.
Be sure your bullets really are .401, because I have had to buy a sizer for my .45 that go beyond .452, regardless of what the box says.
I use an M die for .45 but only to get bevel based lead bullets to stand straight for insertion (5 stations). That die only affects the outer 1/16" of the case mouth, so it's not a solution for getting larger ID cases.
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I've been using taper crimp die but I was wondering if anyone else prefers Factory Crimp over taper crimp in 40 S&W and why.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
The FCD should be avoided if loading oversized lead bullets. Then I use the Redding Taper Crimp Die. However, an FCD should be standard equipment for any reloader using fired .40 S&W brass, since the guts of the die is part of the Lee Bulge Buster. That gizmo will full length size the brass and ensure that it will chamber. Run all pick up brass through that, trust me. You can also run loaded rounds through it, if not lead bullets, so don't pull bullets from jacketed rounds that didn't chamber fully.
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On .40 S&W fired brass, I use the FCD to presize with the Bulge Buster. I run all .40 fired brass regardless through this process, saving headaches later.
For lead bullets, at least .001 larger, I use only the Redding Taper Crimp Die in straight wall cases and Profile Crimp Die in rimmed revolver calibers. That is especially important on .45 ACP, since those lead bullet diameters go oversize more than other calibers. .40 S&W is truer to size but still .001 over and possibly swaged by the FCD.
For jacketed bullets, in my experience usually true to size specs, the FCD has a green light and can be a real asset, ensuring rounds will gauge or chamber.
I claim no experience with plated bullets, but if they are not oversized, I don't see how an FCD would damage them.
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Just a quick question. I have a 9mm Lee die set in a LNL AP and I have loaded around 1200 rounds with little to no problems at all. Last week I went out to work on a load and after a few rounds went through I noticed that some of them seemed off, and after measuring OAL indeed there was some inconsistencies. After starting completely over (cleaning, checking to see if anything is loose, etc.) I went with one round at a time and measured a few and they seemed to be within a tolerable range so then I went back to the usual and loaded 5-6 at a time to see what I would get. With a goal OAL at this time of 1.07 I got the following:
1 @ 1.056
2 @ 1.065
1 @ 1.068
1 @ 1.072
1 @ 1.080
At this point I was obviously frustrated and went through started everything over again, making sure everything was tight again, setting up all the dies again etc. Still having problems staying consistent. I tried different bullet types thinking the stem would be the issue. Tried some RN and FP and it still was inconsistent. The only other Lee die set I have is a 45acp set and I didn't have any more empty cases lying around or I would have looked to see if I had similar results.
In the end, with a gift certificate to cabelas that I got in the mail I caved and bought a Hornady die set and it works absolutely flawlessly so far, which also deepens my frustrations with my Lee set and brings me to the question, does anybody have any ideas as to what is going on? I never had any other real problems with the Lee dies besides that, and I still use the FCD. Any insight would be much appreciated
Ben
I wondered if the seating insert shape was right for the bullet. There are concave inserts and flat inserts. If a bullet nose is not rounded there can be some variance with a concave seating insert. Some bullets can seat a little crooked also.
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If you get an inertial puller...one of those hammer thingies...you can just do one moderate rap to get the bullet partially out. Then put it on the seater and crimp stations again. You're done.
BTW, I put some newspaper inside mine so I don't beat up lead bullets.
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I don't know of a good reason to have unique loads for this gun. One thing I can say about mine is that it is a good place to use up oversized bullets and rounds which failed gauging for a 1911. The chambers are generous.
Mine gets lead fouling no matter what I try among bullets of varying hardness, so I suggest you think about loads that are pretty light or get your Chore Boy cooper pads stocked up for routine lead removal..
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Redding GRX push thru die. Simple, cheap, fast and it works.
Carbide version is not what I would call cheap.
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So I used Lee's customer service page and entered a ticket for my 9mm die set and 45 shell plate for my Loadmaster. With the 9mm set cases are continously getting stuck in the sizing die, with the shell plate one of the 5 slots is not sized correctly and the shells willl not slide in without my man handling it.
this is the response I received:
Hi Casey,
Sorry to hear that you are having problems. The Load Master, like any progressive press requires adjustment to perform at its best.
The 9mm case is a tapered case and because of this it is difficult to size. The carbide insert in the die is also tapered and much longer than the carbide insert in the 45 ACP sizing die. It is harder to size a 9mm case than it is to size a 45 ACP case. The farther you push the 9mm case into the sizing die the more of the case comes in contact with the insert and the harder it gets. Sizing a 9mm case is more like sizing a small rifle case in this respect. And just as a rifle case must be lubed prior to resizing putting lube on 9mm cases will make them much easier to size. Even lubing every 8th or 10th case will make a difference.
The easiest way to remove a stuck case is to leave the die in the press and loosen but do not remove the clamp nut at the top of the die that secures the decapping rod. After loosening the clamp nut use a 3/16 inch punch and a hammer to drive the decapping rod and case from the bottom of the die. The clamp nut will act as a guide to hold the punch and decapping rod straight.
If you return the shell plate and one or two cases that will not fit in the one opening I will adjust the opening in the shell plate for you. Include a note explaining the problem and send the plate and cases to my attention at the addres below. If you have a Dremel type tool and the proper size grinding wheel you may be able to adjust the opening yourself. From your description you would only have to remove one or two .001".
Thanks,
Peter
Customer Service
Lee Precision, Inc.
4275 Highway U
Hartford, WI 53027
phone: 262-673-3075
Ticket Details
Ticket ID: DZZ-526-75326
Department: CustomerService
Type: Issue
Status: Closed
Priority: Normal
So they are telling me that I need to lubel my pistol cases in a carbide die set, and they closed my ticket before either item was resolved.
This is what I sent them:
I have already removed one stuck case. Every 9mm case I put through the die becomes stuck and needs a lot of pressure on the press lever to be removed. Now there is a second one that pulled out of the shellplate it is so stuck. I am not going to continuously use a hammer for every round I put through your dies. I am unsatisfied and expect to have a resolution considering Lee claims to have a guarantee if the product does not work properly, and THIS PRODUCT DOES NOT WORK. I have included a PDF of your webpage for the 9mm carbide sizing die and have highlighted where it specifically states "no case lube needed" I have also included a copy of the Lee Precision Gaurantee which states "Lee Reloading products are guaranteed not to wear out break from normal use for two full years or they will be repaired or replaced at no charge." Since this is to be at "No Charge" I expect a shipping label for both my 9mm die SET and the 45 shell plate, and I will include some of the 45 brass that does not fit the one position on the shell plate.I will be posting this email thread and all future corespondence to the Brian Enos Forum and The Beretta Forum for other reloaders to see the quality of customer service provided by Lee Precision.
I had thought I heard that Lee customer service was good. Whats this all about? Am I out of line requesting a shipping label?
Did you ever take that die apart and clean it? That is always best with new dies, because they may be stored with protective coatings or have trace metallic particles that need to be flushed.
If your whole case hinges on demanding a prepaid label, we've heard this before, and it ain't gonna happen. Let it go.
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Use a star washer... It gives even pressure on the shell plate, as opposed to a lock washer.
That's what I was looking for. Thank you. I figured if the lockwasher was not snugged, the pressure on the flat washer would be uneven.
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The reason for not tightening the lock-washer all the way was to protect from CRACKING the shellplate.
Umm...has that ever happened or is it just a concern?
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Okay, the O-ring didn't work. I should have realized that the force of pulling a case out of a die would compress the rubber. The result was the shellplate canting and dropping the shell retainer spring band.
I picked up a 3/8 lockwasher, and it works great so far. It seems that tightening it down firmly is fine. I bought a brass washer for lack of finding stainless, nickel, or chrome.
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AT_liberty,
Maybe you should watch the video series by Bill Morgan AKA 76highboy.
"HORNADY LNL HINTS AND TRICKS"
These videos are well done and include this LOCK-WASHER set-up.
Watch the complete 5 part series if you want to save yourself some time
on the SET-UP and problem solving of the HORNADY LNL-AP.
You'll be running like a top.
Google for them, they are for the PRESS and NOT THE CASE FEEDER.
I will check them out, but what if I have better answer in the O-ring?
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You can just put a lock washer on top of the FLAT WASHER, THEN,
Put a finger in a shell plate recess as to hold it still,
Start tightening the LOCK WASHER, when the shell plate tries to rotate
with your finger in the slot, TIGHTEN IT just a bit more and it's set.
The LOCK WASHER does not HAVE TO BE COMPLETELY TIGHTENED DOWN.
I only found heavy duty lockwashers that were not an ideal size, so I went with the O-ring. I did not want to put too much force on the ball bearings underneath the shell plate, and believe the common lockwasher would have been over kill.
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I put a #8 O-ring under the shell plate nut, over the fender washer, and with moderate force it seems to hold well. I got the O-ring at an Ace Hardware. It's as perfect a fit as I could hope for. I could use some help in field testing this as a good fix to recommend. My press is not high volume usage.
LNL AP sticking in the upmost position
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by at_liberty
Another has mentioned it, but your description reminds me of a tight expander. It comes off "violently" given enough force. If it is not really a stuck feeling, just some sort of lockup, then your primers may not be fully seated. Don't brute force it. Start pulling dies when it happens, and you may find the hang up.