BBJones
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Posts posted by BBJones
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not to imply anything but do you know if the spring your using is a rifle or carbine length?
if so i would like others here suggest reducing the gas not increasing the resistance of the recoil system if your trying to lighten perceived recoil
the use of a heavier buffer is great for slowing down the operating cycle and bleeding off some of the bolt velocity of a tactical gun
but if your intent is a competition rifle you would be better suited to reduce the gas force and decrease the mass of your reciprocating parts to create a lighter recoiling and less disturbing rifle.
I would ask the same question. Did you also buy a rifle length spring? All else being equal, the recoil impulse should be similar between the two setups you describe.
Also, Spikes buffers (assuming you are tlaking about their T2) are not true H2 buffers. They are inbetween H1 and H2 in wieght. They also use tungsten powder instead of weights and spacers. They don't work as well in my experience. They do it to save money despite their claims of improved performance.
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ps : "BBJones" - yup that's why I bought them.
Yugoslavian made to hold-open.
The ONLY thing missing from the AK platform ... oh, & of course, the small problem of actually hitting anything past 75m!
and I am saying those mags are not good for the bolt and in turn the followers will get beat up. Bolt slams forward as soon as the mag is ejected any way. Thus requiring you to charge the gun when a new mag is inserted anyway.
Son of a gun . . . didn't think of the wear on the bolt & follower, - & not sure how relevant that is as the bolt & followers are pretty much indestructible, but you are right that when you drop the mag the "bolt slams forward" anyway. Damn didn't think that thru.
Hey, anyone out there want to buy some Yugo hold-back mags - CHEAP?!
Thanks "BBJones"
No problem. I should have explained all that in my first post. I may be exaggerating the ill effects on the bolt. Do some research before you dump them. They do atleast tell you when your mag is empty and avoid the dreaded click on an empty chamber. I love the simplicity of the AK design but it has its drawbacks.
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ps : "BBJones" - yup that's why I bought them.
Yugoslavian made to hold-open.
The ONLY thing missing from the AK platform ... oh, & of course, the small problem of actually hitting anything past 75m!
and I am saying those mags are not good for the bolt and in turn the followers will get beat up. Bolt slams forward as soon as the mag is ejected any way. Thus requiring you to charge the gun when a new mag is inserted anyway.
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brake cleaner, be sure to not wear eye protection or gloves.
If the mag is locking back in an AK it is because your bolt is hitting the follower. Not good for the mag or the bolt IMO.
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IMO - never trust a mount to return to zero if your next shots are important. Always verify 0.
I like ADM and Bobro mounting system. Not a fan of the way LaRue's cam on the upper. No experience with any other QD mounts.
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Billet is cool bling, but no performance benefit.
A tight fitting upper extension with a quality barrel nut and a quality barrel is really all you need to start. Lowers are a box to hold the trigger grip and stock, provided the pins match up. Handguards are ergonomics and upgrade-able.
...The barrel and the receiver are the two most important in my opinion as they are the heart of the rifle and the foundation for accuracy and reliability.
Listen to this man.
Lowers are where the most money is wasted in "premium AR's." Upper receivers are frequently the most over looked component. I like VLTOR MUR upers for added stiffness and generally better fit to most forged lowers.
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I won't make any specific suggestions but echo you should try as many different rifles as you can. You may also want to tailor the rifle to the matches you plan to shoot.
I wouldnt rule out a 16" barrel especially if weight of the gun is a consideration for your wife.
I like Geissele triggers but triggers are personal. Try before you buy.
I own 2 13" BCM KMR's very nice rail but there are many good options.
Traded my ACS for an STR. Much preferred the smaller and lighter STR.
Hated the Vortex PST 1-4 reticle. Awful for 3-Gun for me.
BCM gunfigther and Rainer Raptor are both excellent. I prefer the Raptor.
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For the most part lowers are lowers. Stay away from polymer ones. Billet looks cool and costs more but does not offer any real advantages but does not hurt either.
This. There are some exceptions.
Wait, why are we replying to a thread from 2007?
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Try salient arms they make a 14.5 barrel w/ rifle length gas setup.
How much does that cost? Your first born or will they accept your second born if you throw in your soul?
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How tight did you have to torque it to get it to time up correctly? As Dan suggested, I would try to reinstall with a precision shim kit. I like Precsion Armament's Accu-washer system. I have completely moved away from crush washers on AR's. Some work great others require way too much torque to get the muzzle device to time up.
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I had the same problem with a bolt gun a while back. Stiller uses PTG parts and got a bad run of ejectors. They were all a little long. Maybe DD outsources parts and got a bad batch.
DD does not outsource much.
Interesting you mention a PTG bolt. I think I had the same problem in my "custom" Rem700 build. Took alot of fiddling to get ejection and extraction to work correctly. When was the bad run of bolts? Mine was about 18 months ago.
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So if you feel comfortable putting it in the oven for a few minutes you should be OK mounting it to your gas block.
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you are asking for something that won't run. 14.5 middies are soft shooting; go with that.
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Does this lower work with all your other uppers and your friends uppers? If so send the upper back to seekins
This is what I was getting at. Try the lower with other uppers and the upper with other lowers. You should see a trend as to which one does not fit.
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I use about 4 drops of FIREClean total on the bolt, carrier, and inside of the receiver and a couple wet patches of Hoppes on the bore, followed by a couple of dry patches.
I shot several times this winter in sub 20 degree weather and didn't have any issues w/ the FIREClean. I have noticed that it seems to be a little gummy on one or two of my 1911s in particular, even during warm weather, whereas on other 1911s and my Glocks it stays thin. I think it's because I didn't clean off the old lube before applying Fireclean on the gummy 1911s. I haven't shot these guns in quite a while so I haven't messed with them to see if a good cleaning/degreasing and then applying Fireclean takes care of the problem.
Should have read down further, but this exactly. Old stuff needs to be completely removed and very very little needs to be applied.
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For a cleaning rod, get a dewey.
I rarely clean my AR's since switching to fireclean. Pretty much wipe the vitals and reapply. I only clean my barrels when accuracy falls off, which is not often.
I love this stuff too, but there is a huge problem. When it gets cold, fire clean gels badly. It happened to me when the temps were in the 20's. The slide of my pistol felt like it had bubble gum in it. My AR would not go into battery once in a while. It is a great warm weather lube, and I love how you can just wipe off the carbon. I hope they are working on fixing this.
Did you follow the directions when applying? you need to completely strip off anything that was on there before. Also, very little needs to be applied.
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I would look for a couple of extra pins, to find one that will allow go in completely without altering the receivers. If the interference is only a few thous, the variation in pins should allow you to find one slightly undersized and make it work.
It's actually probably closer to a few hundredths since I can look into the pin hole and see that the holes don't line up
Are the upper and lower from the same manufacturer?
This?
What is the setup you are using? Is one part known to be in spec 99.99% of the time? I have never needed to mod either and usually you get sloppy fit vs so tight they dont fit together. I would attempt to try your upper and lower in different combinations. If I ever have one that seems tight or loose, I try them with a different upper/lower to see which part is the problem. The more you have to compare to the better.
For a no non-sense and firm but not overly tight fit, I have settled on VLTOR MUR uppers on a quality milspec forged lower (LMT, DD, BCM, etc.). Beautiful thing when you know your build will go smooth before you even start. IMO a tight upper/lower fit is less important than a stiffer upper (ie MUR).
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For a cleaning rod, get a dewey.
I rarely clean my AR's since switching to fireclean. Pretty much wipe the vitals and reapply. I only clean my barrels when accuracy falls off, which is not often.
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Limbsaver makes a precision fit pad for the stoeger m2000 (model # 10008). Would the dimensions be the same on the stock between the two models?
Unfortunately no.
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Del Ton ! 159.00 range. Mine shoots PMC into a 1" group with a dot.
While at 25 yards that is not impressive, if you are saying that it does that consistently at 100 yards that is incredible. I mean incredible in the true sense of the word. PMC is not sub MOA ammo.
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C'mon we need pics of the awesome work.Received mine back from MOA Precision today.
Super work!!!!!!!!!!!
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Refinish. The matte finish on the gun and mag tube are NASTY! Show dust and grimereally bad, CeraKote is coming.
FWIW
Brad Metcalf
You are going to pay to refinish a $500 shotgun? Run it hard and who cares what it looks like.
I agree with Jesse's train of thought. Make cheap functional changes to a budget gun. If you want a looker spend for a $1000+ shotgun.
I figure all in (gun, taxes, parts) I will have <$750 into mine.
Working on a grind to fit kick-eez for buttpad. Not that excited about doing the work so will probably be a few weeks. I will be removing 3/4" off the stock too. I do have a comfort tech from a super nova lying around. They are pretty similar to M2's comfort-techs? might see if they will mate up.
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Take a look at the raptor I have 2 BCM's and prefer the axts raptor
http://www.amazon.com/Rainier-Arms-Raptor-Ambidextrous-Charging/dp/B00C54GWYW
+1 for the raptor. Switched my BCM's to raptor's (I do shoot lefty though). However, I would not buy them off amazon or ebay (fakes are circulating). Buy them direct from Rainer Arms or a trusted retailer.
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Who made the lower? Most companies will assist you if they made/sold a bad lower.
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ADM mounts are good to go (perhaps your guru only knows the gear s/he uses and does not explore too much). You probably don't need a QD mount unless you plan on swapping your scope to different rifle or putting different optics on that rifle. Do you know which model you have? I would not run one with just one locking lever. Most have two though.
Since you already own it, I would use it. Remember to re-zero after you remove and re-mount an optic. Just because it is QD does not mean it will return to the same zero.
I have run ADM mounts on AR's and precision bolt guns. No problems with them holding zero if you properly mount the scope and your rail you attach it to is anywhere near spec.
compensator advice for ar
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Interesting that your Battle Comp had muzzle rise. I had a 6.5 lb gun (16" mid-length loaded with optic) getting severe muzzle dip with a BC 1.0. Not as noticeable on guns 7.5 pounds+. In my experience (and common sense), the lighter the gun the more influence the muzzle device can have over the movement of the muzzle. I shy away from aggressive vertical ports on light guns.
I think the Ares effin a MkII would get you where you want to go since it is tuneable. Just alot of tinkering.