gunzoo
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Posts posted by gunzoo
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I'm trying to lower my cost per 1k 147gr 9mm rounds and my pursuit has led me to a manufacturer called Unique Precision Bullets. They are selling 9mm 147gr lead bullets for only $48.00 per 1k. Have you ever dealt with these folks?
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Great advice everyone! I'll work on the dry-fire drills on the days I dont shoot and see if I can clean this up. When I shoot under 15-yards, I hit a little low but usually zero or one down. I think the low shooting is amplified at distance so it probably is me yanking the barrel down as I pull the trigger.
Thanks for all your feedback!
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My skills are improving and the time at the range is helping immensely but I'm having one heck of time with long shots. When taking shots of 20-yards or more, my shots are hitting insanely low. On an IDPA target, I aim at the "-0" and I end up hitting "-3". THis ends up being 12"-18" low. I'm lining up the front sites and taking the extra time to make the shot but for some reason, I'm blowing the shot consistently. Any thoughts on what my issue is or what I can do?
I'm shooting a Glock 34 with 147gr bullets.
Thanks,
~Mac
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- Glock 34
- 147gr Truncated Cone, Montana Gold - Seated at 1.135"
- 4.3gr Solo 1000 (Slow jug of powder! Always start low and work up YOUR own load for YOUR safety!)
- Mixed Brass
- Wolf Small Pistol Primers
- Averages 920fps/135pf out of a Lone Wolf barrel
- Glock 34
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I don't see an option for G34 on the TruGrip website. What option should I select?
Also, what's your opinion on TruGrip? Would you use something different? Until today I thought grip tape was unnecessary and something for those shooters who install every mod possible thinking it will help them shoot better when actually shooting more is what they need. Basically, it was hot as crap out today and my hands were sweating like crazy and the gun was slipping in my hand constantly.
Thanks,
~Mac
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I forgot to add that I checked my weight on both my RCBS Digital Scale AND my Lee beam scale. Also, I chorny'd my loads on my Shooting Chrony Alpha Master Chronograph and my friends CED Millennium 2 chrony. Both scales show the loads to be within 0.10 of a grain and both chronographs were within 25fps of one another. I'm telling ya, this jug shoots slow! It is in an Accurate branded jug and I bought it from Powder Valley.
Besides the velocity being poor it does shoot cleaner than any powder I've ever seen. The brass that is ejected almost looks new. Too bad I don't care about clean as much as making a decent power factor without blowing up my gun or myself. My final judgment is this: The powder burns slow and at these slow rates of speed the pressure cannot be too high as to cause damage (hopefully).
I'm shooting in the SC State IDPA Championship at the end of April and dont have time to work up another powder as I need to spend every free second shooting/training. I'll run with this then hope that some Titegroup becomes available and I'll make the switch. I just don't feel good about this powder long-term. Like I said, clean burning is good but I can clean my gun and tumble my brass, I need safe and mildly fast powder.
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So I just got home from the range and shot a few rounds through the chrony. I ran with 4.3gr's at a length of 1.135". The top of the primer looked somewhat flat but the sides were rounded. I'm no "high-pressure sign expert" but with the numbers below, I don't think the pressure was too high on these. Results from 4, 10-shot, groups below. I'm cutting it close with these numbers. Should I add another 0.01gr or decrease the OAL to 1.125"? Thoughts?
Gun: Glock 34
Barrel: Glock Factory
Recoil Spring: ISMI 13 pound
Striker Spring: Wolf 4 pound
Powder: Solo-1000
Powder Charge 4.3gr
OAL: 1.135"
Bullet Used: Montana Gold
Bullet Weight: 147gr
Brass Used: Blazer
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1st string of 10-shots
LOW: 861
HIGH: 889
AVG: 874
ES: 27.1
SD: 10.13
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
2nd string of 10-shots
LOW: 855
HIGH: 909
AVG: 875
ES: 54.08
SD: 16.37
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
3rd string of 10-shots
LOW: 870
HIGH: 915
AVG: 895
ES: 45.26
SD: 14.56
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
4th string of 10-shots
LOW: 856
HIGH: 910
AVG: 876.5
ES: 53.35
SD: 16.03
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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I will however let you in on the secret to help reduce spillage until you find the powder you want to use. Take off the shellplate. Under the detent ball that stops the shellplate in the correct position is a spring. Pull that spring out & clip off a couple of coils. Put it back together & make sure the ball still does it's job. If you cut off too much, pull the spring back out & stretch it just a little bit. This, like all other adjustments can be overdone so be cautious. One or two coils, you will find the shellplate doesn't snap nearly as hard into place.
This worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
~Mac
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I just wanted to post a follow-up on this thread. Ever since I started concentrating on REALLY seating the primer firmly, I've had a dramatic reduction in light primer strikes. Maybe 1 per 150. I haven't even installed the lightened firing-pin yet and I think once I do, I don't think I'll see a light primer strike again ::fingers-crossed:: Note to self: SEAT THE CRAP OUTTA THOSE PRIMERS!
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Your loads may take a good amount more of solo to make PF. Sarge's load that makes ~130pf makes less than 120 PF in my M&P Pro. I ran it up to 4.4 gr with NO pressure signs at all yet, still only made 122pf with the 4.4 gr.
I have some 4.0gr and 4.3gr loads ready to test. We shall see where I stand on Tuesday. I'm starting to think 124gr with Unique powder ain't sounding so bad right now!
You went from 3.4gr at 1.14 OAL and had an average of 784fps to 3.7gr at 1.12" and only went up to 804fps? Something else is very wrong there.
Trust me, I know. I have some Unique laying around (used it on 124gr's I was shooting) and may try it to see whats going on.
Whats your LOT # on your jug of powder?
No lot number on the jug, just a bar code.
Are you weighing every powder charge for every round of your test ammo?
I am weighing every 5th round and loading about 50 rounds for each increment in powder.
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It appears Solo-1000 is indeed slow. I ran up to 3.7 grains today (1.12") used the same head-stamp (Winchester) and had the following:
AVG 804fps
SD: 12.4fps
LOW: 742fps
HIGH: 828fps (HUGE difference between the high and low)
I'm gonna load some 3.9's and some 4.1's. I'll probably load a few 4.3's (dangerous? Who knows with this load!!!) as well because I don't think I can tolerate another day driving 50-miles round-trip to the range and have loads that wouldn't even penetrate wet paper (exaggeration I know, but the frustration has set in).
I'll update everyone Tuesday. Hopefully I'll report I'm at 130pf. Otherwise I'm gonna flush all 8 pounds of this crap/gunpowder. I really wanted Tite Group but I could not find it anywhere and this tied with WIN 231 as I'm gonna shoot lead as well.
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The reason i'm varying lengths is I'm scared to increase the charge as I've heard 3.0 gr is the max for Solo-1000.
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I jut got back from the range and am a little concerned. I loaded up a few diff length loads,packed up the chrony, and hit the range. I'm trying to build up a load that will hover just above the IDPA Power Factor.
(Power Factor = Bullet Velocity in feet per second multiplied by Bullet Weight in grains.)
I'm running a 147gr bullet so I need at least 851 fps. As you can see from my number below, I'm way off. The rounds in the 1.14" length had the highest fps but still way off. The rounds in the 1.13" and 1.15" range sucked and had major cycling problems in my gun, and they also were super slow. Let me know where you think I should go from here. Your feedback is, as always, greatly appreciated.
PARTICULARS:
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Gun: Glock 34
Barrel: Storm Lake
Recoil Spring: ISMI 13 pound
Striker Spring: Wolf 4 pound
Powder: Solo-1000
Powder Charge 3.4gr
Bullet Used: Montana Gold
Bullet Weight: 147gr
Brass Used: Various once-fired cases
LOAD RESULTS
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1.14" avg = 784fps
OAL ---fps
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1.144 ---775
1.147 ---786
1.146 ---782
1.144 ---793
1.145 ---784
1.145 ---786
1.144 ---777
1.145 ---770
1.142 ---797
1.146 ---794
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1.13" avg = 747fps
OAL ---fps
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1.136 ---737
1.136 ---733
1.136 ---759
1.131 ---756
1.137 ---742
1.135 ---753
1.132 ---748
1.133 ---749
1.138 ---737
1.139 ---756
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1.15" avg = 755fps
OAL ---fps
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1.159 ---730
1.158 ---779
1.155 ---777
1.155 ---754
1.153 ---754
1.159 ---757
1.151 ---774
1.158 ---741
1.156 ---762
1.158 ---730
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UPDATE
Today was a range day and I ran across a few thousand Winchester small pistol primers and decided to load them up and compare them on the range. I'm loading on a Dillon 650 and decided to be extra firm on the seating stroke of each primer. I shot 250 rounds with ZERO failures. I switched over to Wolf primed rounds and had one failure to ignite out of 100.
The lesson I learned was primers matter and seating them properly matters a lot. Also, I'll def buy a lighter firing-pin and hopefully that will be that.
God I love shooting!!!
~Mac
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This is great feedback and I appreciate all the responses. Just to recap for anyone stumbling across this thread on Google or through the forum:
Lighter striker springs, on a Glock (Mine is a Glock 34), can cause primers not to ignite if:
1. You do not fully seat the primer. Check primers for full seating and if they are suspect, move them to the practice/ "I won't lose a competition if the primer doesn't ignite."
2. If you use primers known to have a hard cup i.e. thick coating
3. Or both 1 & 2 combined.
So it appears I'm off to the range to test some new combination of springs, primers, and primer seating depths.
Have a great weekend!
~Mac
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I hit the range yesterday to shoot a few hundred rounds and ran into a pretty consistent problem. 35 out 500 rounds had light primer strikes and failed to ignite. I am using a reduced power Wolf 14# recoil spring and 4# Wolf striker spring. I am currently using Wolf primers but had the same issue with CCI primers. I really don't want to change out the striker-spring as the trigger is finally where I want it to be. *sigh* Or is it the recoil spring?
What are your thoughts? I know you'll say "put the factory striker-spring back in" but there has to be another option. Why would they even make a 4# spring if it had this high of a failure rate? There is no way I can compete with my gun being this unreliable but don't want to "go stock" either. Do any of you experience with this firing pin? Its supposed to have an extended firing pin to prevent light strikes? Thoughts?
Thanks,
~Mac
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-9mm powder spilling everywhere on the Dillon 650-
So I received my Dillon 650 last week and have started reloading pretty heavy. The press is amazing but I do have one complaint, powder gets everywhere! I'm reloading 9mm and using Unique powder. Every lever pull spills powder out of the rotating cases. When I say powder spills, I mean ALL over the press. It's pretty insane how much powder does come out and insane there aren't more posts about this online. Yes, I am using a slow and steady motion when pulling the arm. Yes, my table is sturdy and secure. So...I need to change powder, to one that doesn't fill the case up so much. What powder do you recommend? I'm looking for something with a finer consistency unlike the flake powder that is Unique!
Thanks,
~Mac
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Hello all! I'm new to the board and pretty new to competitive shooting. I was born and raised in North Carolina and moved to Jacksonville,FL about 5 years ago. I'm a big fan of long-range rifle shooting and competitive handgunning ("handgunning", Is that even a word???). I'm heavy into reloading and trying to shoot as much as possible this year. I look forward to learning more about the shooting sports and learning from your experiences.
C-ya in the forum and on the range!
~Mac
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Great feedback, guys. THANKS!!!
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Jager makes the only IDPA legal one I know of. It can be done on the stock one but I did't mess around with it and just bought the Jager.
I see on Jagers site rods for everything except the 34??? Everything for the 34 is steel and as such...illegal for IDPA. *SIGH*
Link?
THANKS!
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OK, so...
I bought a Wolff Rod and 14# spring combo and found out the rod is not legal (it's steel). How do I change the recoil spring to 14# on a factory guide rod? Is there another, non-captured, plastic rod available that I can use to put a reduced weight spring on?
Thanks,
~Mac
More Solo1000 data
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted · Edited by gunzoo
Memphis,
What's the lot number on the bottom of that jug? I'm running 4.3gr of Solo at 1.135" under a 147gr MG and it's moving at 904fps on avg with a SD of 15ish. The lot number on mine is #1930.
~Mac