marmax
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Posts posted by marmax
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Ruger is making some nice changes to this carbine. I've wanted one for a long time and I think it is time to pull the trigger.
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Great tips, this has bugged me for 30,000 rounds. I am sick of picking up spent primers off the floor!
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Wes, I started the other way around. I started with pistol reloads and worked to rifle reloads and learned that for long ragne accuracy, you have to sort rifle cases. For my 9mm reloads I use all major 9mm head stamps from range brass but throw away crimped or tight pocket pieces like the S&B and RWS. I have no doubt that separating the brass would yield better accuracy, but for 9mm blasting, I simply don't need it. Stay safe shooting and reloading.
Chris
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I've used many different lubes but like many have settled on One shot because it is not as sticky as some of the others. I like Dillon for large rifle cases though. I am very interested in making a batch of the lanolin and alcohol mix. Great idea and I agree that keeping the price as low as possible is a great way to squeak out a few more rounds.
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+1 on the cardboard.
I've used that and just dry fired my glocks with no problem. Just a smoother trigger. Save your cash for ammo... -
I have a LW barrel for my G35 and have had no issues with lead or FMJ. I shoot both but I haven't tried plated. It shoots the Montana Gold's the best. IMO
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Oggi's pizza and brewing company...
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I use OEM for my 34 with no issues and a lone wolf for my 35.
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I like to use a dehydrator. I use venison but use what you have. The instructions say to never use any alcohol but whiskey works fine in small amounts. I use most of the same ingrediants as Brian has listed but I also use pineapple juice for the bromelain and papain. They are protein digestive enzymes that help to tenderize the meat naturally. Make lots and enjoy.
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They are both empty and full of mystery. Most members are only names with no faces, as pertaining to the forum.
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I've shot several thousand of the Berry bullets in 9mm and 40s&w in different weights. I never had a problem out of my 34 or 35 and they were plenty accurate but I agree with G-ManBart. Once I found the Precision Delta brand I started buying a better quality bullet for less money.
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I just watched some videos on this very subject. I haven't got the nerve up yet but that looks like it improves the grip greatly.
I was also wondering if you sanded the pattern afterwards and with what grit sandpaper. Great job..
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I shoot cast in 40 and 45 and fmj in 9mm. I will most likely change to lead in 9mm as soon as I get a new barrel in my g-34. I save over 40$ per k in 40's alone from a local bullet caster.
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I have no issues with the G34 or G35. I've have not had an accuracy problem with either pistol. I prefer the simplistics of the Glock and the tried and true durability of the Glock. One thing to consider is at some matches when you change your mag. At IDPA matches indoor sometimes you retain and sometimes you drop your mag on concrete. At some matches I've been at outdoors mags can hit the ground pretty hard and the polymer holds up better than metal only mags. Just my 2cents.
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I buy my boolits from a local vendor for a price that is so reasonable that it is not worth it to me to buy all the gear to cast my own. I have a friend who made the investment and he enjoys casting but it does take quite a bit of time and the health hazzard is huge. The first time he melted the wheel weights, the smoke it burned off gave him a nasty sore throat and he was outside. I told him to buy a respirator but he had to learn the hard way.
I also just switched to WST from Titegroup for cast reloads as suggested on this forum and it is very noticeable. Good luck with which ever way you choose.
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This site has a lot of info on it with lots of designs. Have fun and let your scout do the work. Just help him be safe..
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I try to shoot about 100-200 rounds per week and often increase that with 22 rimfire practice. I like to dry fire as well.
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I also use Titegroup with my loads in my 35. I changed the barrel a few months back and I definitely notice a difference. I always felt like the factory barrel had inconsistant pressures. I also didn't like the way the brass came out with a bulge. I shoot my 35 alot more now but I visually check every case as I load on my 550b. Good luck on your next one.
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I was about 28 and used a stock p220. I want to shoot much more this coming year..
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I would have a matching pair of STI's or SVI's in 38 super or one of the variants. I would like about 10k of brass to go with that deal and about 20 mags.
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Nickle cases do have a shorter life and are more brittle. Speer cases in general have a shorter life as well because they load them a little hotter than most. Just my observations.
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The only thing I would add is after your last tumble, before you reprime, I clean the primer pocket so as to make sure no media is stuck in the flash hole. I use a little metal brush on my dremel and it is fairly quick. Also run a brush inside the case because once in a while a glob of media will stick inside the case. Its extra work but worth it in the end for quality control.
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That good info G-ManBart. I thought that was a pretty close to the max load. Also I would suggest a bullet puller for loads you are unsure of. They are cheap and a lot safer than shooting off mysterious rounds.
I've used that and just dry fired my glocks with no problem. Just a smoother trigger. Save your cash for ammo...
Replacement for Clays in .38 special?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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I've had good luck with Green Dot, Bullseye and Unique.