Limited Custom
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Just received another new Limited .40 (2nd one), but having double feed problem.
(Next round jamming against the case being extracted.)
Why ?????
Pictures of the jam itself are always helpful.
It does not sound like a classic double feed based upon what you stated.
Is the round being extracted stuck against the slide and barrel (i.e. stovepipe)?
Does it do it with all of the mags or just one or two?
Does it happen during the first few rounds of the mag or the last few?
It usually happen on the first few rounds
looks like the extractor did not grap the case from the barrel and the slide tried to push the 2nd round in.
Makes the 2nd round "bullet" are up against the bottom of the 1st round which is still in the barrel.
Some said the gun are too new, if I can go 2-3000 round everything will get smooth........?????
I am thinking if it doesn't work at the first place, how can it goes better.
Will that somthing to do with tension of the extractor?
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Just received another new Limited .40 (2nd one), but having double feed problem.
(Next round jamming against the case being extracted.)
The gun was fine in the first 100 rounds. And the problem start every 10-20 rounds.
The mags should be fine since they’ve been uesd on my other one.
Any idea why?
My load – 180g / Universal 5.4gr / 1.185 OAL - same as the other.
Why ?????
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My new Limited seems to eject the brass every which way. It always ejects, no failures, but is this an indication of a possible problem? I've had a few almost hit me in the head coming straight back, and quite a few actually going forward which seems a little odd to me.
I have the same problem when it's new. After about 3-4000 round, it works fine.
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Henning - Where is the buffer ?????? Waiting.......
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Some guys said it even help the recoil,
is that true?
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Has anybody try the Slide-Glide from Brian Enos's store?
Does it really work or help?
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Really? My feelings are quite the opposite, Tanfoglio feels the softest recoiling gun to me. 180gr bullets, around 5.3gr of Vihtavuori N320, PF 173. (40SW HC Custom, with regular slide, eg. not lightned. Whatever it is called in USA, the top standard class model.)
STI has heavier and a lot higher slide, and lighter frame. Also I've never gotten to like the ergonomics of the grip, safety, and trigger guard. I also had a CZ Tactical sports in .40, and it just plain kicked harded than Tanfoglio with the same ammo.
Askomiko - whats your OAL on the N320 ammo? that's the powder I would like to try. 5.3gr enough?
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FYI,...In Canada you compete in Standard division, so making major requires 170pf. I use ammo that makes approx. 175pf +/-. I use remanufactured ammunition 180gr .40 Combat master ammo. (I sell it as well, so that is why I use it.)
You ar right, 175 PF for me in a Tanfoglio is very tough to handle, thats why I was hopping to find a special receipe to match or might need to change gun....
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Standard Clays, 4.7gr drop, 180gr FMJ Montana Gold, 1.225 OAL is what I use for USPSA Major (165 PF) in my EAA Witness Limited. It shoots fairly soft but if you are really recoil sensitive just shoot minor. You can make some super weak sauce .40 minor loads that have virtually no recoil. Or you can simply learn to manage the recoil of major loads.
In the end, just pick a load and shoot it until you are use to it. Too many people forever chase the "Magical" load that is super soft shooting and, bla, bla, bla. Every load recoils a little differently and it changes your timing which changes the grip pressure you need. So its better just to pick a load and shoot it so you give yourself a chance to learn and tune YOUR shooting to it.
Cha-Lee This is another thing I don't understand, Spec on Clay max should be about 3.8 1.12OAL. But your's are a lot higher. How can we make it "soft" by using more power?
Longer OAL = need more power = more "bang"???????
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So, is that mean you are suggested to use faster power so that I can use less power, then less recoil?
Beside titegroup, what kind ? (we cannot get tigegroup here)
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I would tell you to bump your powder dump until you either get the FPS that you desire or you start seeing bad pressure signs.
Tanfogliocoe - what do you mean by bad pressure signs?
jimzim - do you think a slower burn power will help (less recoil) we do not have much choice in Canada, I was thinking to switch to N320.
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I have a Limited Custom, using universal clays for power, OAL 1.195 My problem is by loading 5.3gr I got 880 FPS, when I use 5.4gr got 900 FPS If IPSC require 950FPS to meet the PF, I might need to go 5.6-5.7gr. Will that be too much power?
Can anyone tell me if that is the OAL make the difference? Should I use 1.17OAL instead and drop back to 5.4gr?
Kindly advise.
Pressure is pressure. If you drop the powder charge, but decrease the OAL and get the same velocity, you're getting the same pressure as you were before, so it doesn't really help.
Adjust the OAL so that the gun functions and the rounds fit the magazine. Adjust the powder charge to meet the velocity requirements.
Sierra's data shows a load with a 180gr JHP at 1.125" going up to 6.0gr of Universal Clays as max. Sounds like you should be fine. R,
But will that be more "kick" when I use more power?
What I mean is, If I use a STI for 5.2gr / 1.17 OAL to compare, the STI would feel softer (less power).
I know its different gun + the design, I'm just wounder if I should change to STI with better control.
I do like the Tanfoglio, but I am not a big guy to hold the "kick"
I can see some of you guys are using more power than suggested, (Eric use 5.2 on titegroup) is that because we need longer OAL ?
Or is it because of the way "Tanfoglio" design?
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What bullet weight?
.40 / 180 gr
Help guys.
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I have a Limited Custom, using universal clays for power, OAL 1.195 My problem is by loading 5.3gr I got 880 FPS, when I use 5.4gr got 900 FPS If IPSC require 950FPS to meet the PF, I might need to go 5.6-5.7gr. Will that be too much power?
Can anyone tell me if that is the OAL make the difference? Should I use 1.17OAL instead and drop back to 5.4gr?
Kindly advise.
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This is a spin off thread from Henning's topic about his new guide rod...A tungsten solution is something I have considered. I could make a two-piece ConeHead with a screw-on tungsten piece, but as you said it'll be expensive and I'm not sure how big demand would be for it. Personally I think the Match would benefit the strongest. The Limited in my opinion is okay as is, but you know.. maybe a tungsten rod is the cat's meow... let's try it.
Here's probably the way to go...
In fact if you wanted that today, I bet Rich at Canyon Creek would make you a setup using my guide rod and turn a tungsten piece to fit. Rich already have made the traditional guiderod out of tungsten. A blend of his tungsten rod custom-fitted to my ConeHead could be a exactly what you're looking for. The hardened cone steel head will hold up the beating and the tungsten for added front weight.
I'll be sending some of my new designs to Rich next week and he could turn some custom rods to match up.
I am looking to determine how many folks would be interested in a tungsten version of the new ConeHead guide rod design. I've talked to Rich @ Canyon Creek Custom. previously about a custom tungsten guide rod and would be willing to contact him about making up a batch of them either as complete tungsten units or as a two piece design using a screw in tungsten extension to a shortened steel Henning rod if there are enough interested parties. Expect that this is at least a $100 outlay. If you are interested in this please post a response here or PM me
This is of course assuming I can get Henning's blessing to pursue this.
As per Henning, the extra weight will only benfit the plastic frame, for us using limited custom, it might not make a big different.
I m still not 100% sure. But if there is one, I m will to have a try.
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The secondary idea behind this is to bring a shock buff solution next.
A tungsten solution is something I have considered. I could make a two-piece ConeHead with a screw-on tungsten piece, but as you said it'll be expensive and I'm not sure how big demand would be for it. Personally I think the Match would benefit the strongest. The Limited in my opinion is okay as is, but you know.. maybe a tungsten rod is the cat's meow... let's try it.
Here's probably the way to go...
In fact if you wanted that today, I bet Rich at Canyon Creek would make you a setup using my guide rod and turn a tungsten piece to fit. Rich already have made the traditional guiderod out of tungsten. A blend of his tungsten rod custom-fitted to my ConeHead could be a exactly what you're looking for. The hardened cone steel head will hold up the beating and the tungsten for added front weight.
I'll be sending some of my new designs to Rich next week and he could turn some custom rods to match up.
Henning
In that case, I want one. Will you post it when you and Rich ready for them.
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Awesome! I'll be picking one up soon as i put together small spare parts kit for next season. I wouldn't mind one in tungsten - yeah, I know it would would be $100 or so.
Is tungsten has one for us? They works really good in STI/SV
Henning's is nice but just to save the frame (my guess) I do want soming to make the gun with less "kick".
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Limited Custom> If you are shooting 175PF ammo then a 12lb recoil spring would probably be better than the 10.75lb.
Cha-Lee
Thank you for your info,
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I've tried Henning 10.75lb but I felt too mich "kick" compare to the factory 12lb.
both with 175pf. Is it me or my ammo???????
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I have Rich's CanyonCreek magwell installed in three of my guns and I do love them. I think it's the ultimate magwell as long as you're willing to weld it on. I have plans to make a slide-on magwell and it'll be a project this winter. However a slide-on will be a compromise compared to a weld-on and the fit it provides.
Henning
How about your guide rod? I'm looking forward for it.
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Have anyone used the Sprinco Recoil Management
Can it really help to soften the recoil
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Henning
When can we have that? Also you mention your new guide rod. When? is that for the Limited Custom?
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10-15 feet is very far. The other brand works a lot closer. But will try out.....
Sounds like I will need to buy another brand soon (after I shot it).
Thanks guys
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Have anybody using one of the "SHOOTING CHRONY F1"
I've found that its not reliable. Or I just shoot it too close......
I've readings from 3000-8000 FPS even shot it 5feet away.
Can anyone give me advise??
I use one, and find that it is really sensitive to the light level. Trying to chrono at dusk is a no-go, direct sunlight going in the sensors - no-go. I generally put a target over the top, white side toward the sensors - shading the sensors from direct sunlight, and I get good readings then.
Mark K.
Mark
How far do you need to shoot from?
Do you know what happen when I get the funny 3000 FPS readings?
Double feed
in EAA / Tanfoglio Shop
Posted
It sounds like the extractor problem. yes, empty case left in the chamber and also come right out easy after dropping mag.
Thanks all for the info. I will try change the extractor. Just not really happy it happen on a brand new gun.