[primers problem?]

It was happening , till now , in few mounths, 3 times.

AFter I stop shooting ipsc stage, I slide the barrel and during the ejection the round fire.

The brass explode and this is the result,

Now I was thinking that the long firing pin accidentally could touch the primer during ejenction..

or I have no idea of what could happen..

It happened to me once! Sharp edge on ejector hits primer of cartridge.

[Best 38 spl brass for moonclips?]

It depends on the clip. Kind of a chicken and egg thing. For me I use the thickest clips I can get because the are harder to bend but then again I have not clipped a 6 shot k frame yet. All of my moon clip guns were set up that way from the factory. I know when companies like TK cut for clips they specify for factory or their clips. Do you know who converted it?

Lee

According to my dial caliper the clips supplied are .025".

[Best 38 spl brass for moonclips?]

It depends on the clip. Kind of a chicken and egg thing. For me I use the thickest clips I can get because the are harder to bend but then again I have not clipped a 6 shot k frame yet. All of my moon clip guns were set up that way from the factory. I know when companies like TK cut for clips they specify for factory or their clips. Do you know who converted it?

Lee

The conversion was done by TK, haven't measured the thickness of the clips yet, but I will.

[Best 38 spl brass for moonclips?]

Hi guys, I am new to revolver competition, I have a S & W M14 set up for moonclips and am wondering what you consider the best brass to use with them? I understand WW is a no no?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[2012 dates]

It's funny. My boys are getting into shooting, and Jake has expressed an interest in shooting the Cup. I was thinking about making it our family vacation for 2013.

Part of the reason Jake seemed so eagre to shoot the Cup was I told him this was one of the few matches that I'd pull him out of school to shoot.

That got his attention....

The foxey females wouldn't have anything to do with his interest would it?

[Too much Blue]

When I was in the thick of IPSC/Cowboy competition late '80s and early nineties I had seven Dillons, three 1050s, two 550bs and two square deals, all dedicated to a single caliber. My bench was twenty feet long, wish I had a picture. It was impressive.

1050.......38 super, .45 acp, .223

550b........44-40, .45-70

SD........9mm, .44 special

Lyman All American turret......244 Rem, .308, 300 Win

Lyman Comet and Spartan C presses....odd jobs

Cheers

[38 Super Favorite Loads]

I just found an accurate load today for my 38 super; 143gr swc H & G #73 .357, 2.6gr Tightgroup, 2" at 50 yards. Very soft shooting, don't have a chronograph.

[Which Dillon?]

Hi guys. I've made all the important decisions so far in my reloading journey (going to do, going to do it on a Dillon, and I don't need a casefeeder). So that leaves the 550B or the SDB.

I shoot exclusively pistol rounds at the moment. I will probably get a center fire rifle (probably a Remington 7615) in the near-to-medium future, but that will probably be it for rifles and it wouldn't be used very often (a couple of times a year in three-gun matches). If I choose to reload that, I'll probably just get a single stage or something (or even a Lee Loader).

At the moment I shoot 9mm and .357/.38 at the rate of 100-200 rounds per week. I plan to acquire a .44 and a .45ACP in the future, as well (but these will be shot far less than the 9mm and the .357, probably 100 a month or so).

My first thought was, of course, the 550, initially with 9mm and .357 conversions (which would run about $1300 locally with a few goodies like a strong mount and roller handle). But I was talking to one of the wise old men at the range, and he suggested that I price two Square Deals. So I did, and two SDBs with one strong mount and bullet tray was a little cheaper than the 550 package.

The two SDB option sounds pretty practical to me. If and when I pick up bigger calibers I could convert one for large primers and used the other one for the small primers. Would it be nontrival to pull one SDB off the strong mount and bolt the other one on? How does the SDB handle .45s and .44s?

Or is the 550B the right way to go?

Two 550s

[38 Super to 9MM]

I'm sure this idea will be shot down in no time, but would a special Time Sert type insert be feasible to convert a 38 Super barrel to 9MM?

New barrel

[9mm tumbling problem]

I'm shooting an XD-9 Tactical in production and Sunday, I had a few tumbling bullets. Here are the specs:

1. Winchester brass

2. Bear Creek 125 moly truncated cone

3. Winchester small pistol primer

4. 3.2 gr Clays

5. 1.100 O.A.L. (any longer and the don't go bang)

6. Crimp = .378

I measured a few bullets and they're .3575.

I slugged the barrel and it's .349/.355

Can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong?

Shooters using my 125gr swc .356 bullets in 9mm Glock and CZ pistols were having problems with bullets tumbling, I found that changing to Accurate 7 solved the problem. Very accurate and no tumbling. Should work for you.

[A reminder to wear eye protection!]

All,

If I may add some emphasis to wearing eye protection when reloading.

Without offering too many details I too experienced a primer tube detonation sans eyewear.

I was truly in need and received emergency medical care to repair damaged fingers and to have

primer cup shrapnel removed from both my eyes! I still suffer from "starlights" from left-over

primer material that was too invasive to remove. Please let this be a first person reminder to all

that eye protection is or should be mandatory.

Patrick

I had a full tube of LP primers detonate in my 1050 in 1992 without eye protection, my face very close to the machine.

I was VERY lucky to have only a slight nick to the corner of my right eye, I did, however, go into shock from the explosion and briefly lost consciousness.

Lesson learned; always wear eye protection when reloading.

[What are your Favorite Loads for Common Pistol & Rifle Calibers]

I'm out of the loop on modern-day powders. This would be a good resource to have all in one place, and also, since I get this question every day on the phone -

What are your favorite Powders for 9, 40, 45, 223, & 308?

(And add additional calibers if you wish.)

Please be as specific as possible, e.g., list in order of preference, and add comments if you have them.

For example, if I were listing my favorite powders for 40 S&W, I'd say;

40 S&W

Vihtavuori 320

Extremely clean burning; Very light recoil; But a little fast burning/high pressure for maximum loads; Expensive, more difficult to locate.

Hodgdon Clays

Very clean burning; Very light recoil; But a little fast burning/high pressure for maximum loads; Reasonably priced, easy to locate.

Hodgdon Tight Group

Medium clean burning; Fairly sharp recoil; Very low pressure for all loads; Reasonably priced, easy to locate.

9mm Accurate 7, works well and I have lots

.38 super Accurate 7, 130 to 158gr lead, very accurate and I have lots, testing 4756 now

.45 Bullseye, 3.5 to 5.0 gr with H&G 68 200 swc, I have lots, very economical

Unique, 7.2 gr with 230 rnl

.44 Russian Bullseye

.223 H4895 with 52/53 gr Sierra match load

.244 Rem IMR 4064

.25-20 SR4759 with 86gr lead, very accurate

.308 IMR 4350 with 168gr MK, very accurate long range

.44-40 SR 4759 with 200gr lead, very accurate with Lyman 42798

.45-70 SR 4759 with 405gr lead target load

" 330gr hp Gould expess for hunting

IMR 4831, 55gr with 405gr lead magnum primer for hunting, leaves lots of unburned powder in bore but very accurate, compressed load

Mostly 'old' powders I guess, from 50 years reloading experience

[.38 Super most accuate load]

For accuracy I start with the 125 grain, .356" Hornady HAP bullet. It's an XTP without the last two nose forming operations (cheaper than XTPs). Enough Titegroup to reach 1,100 fps.

Thanks, guys, I appreciate the help.

[.38 Super most accuate load]

Hi, can anyone help me with suggestions for your most accurate loads for .38 Super? Prefer cast or fmj, not plated, bullets. Major or minor, I want to shoot Bianchi Cup with iron sight gun with comp, so minor is O K.

Can anyone help with their recipes?

[Which vibratory case cleaner should I buy?]

+1 for the "inexpensive" Frankford. Sometimes Midway USA runs a sale on them for $29.95. I've got two and have done 10's of 1000's of cases in them. Oh, by the way, the first case cleaner I bought was a Dillon. Lasted just over a year and the motor went out. Cost to replace the motor.... the price of a Frankford. Don't get me wrong about Dillon, they are the best at customer service and their products are first rate but their case cleaners, not so much.

My Dillon was under water for a week due to sump pump outlet blocked by ice, not covered by insurance, called Dillon to get a rreplacement motor, they said send it back they would replace it.

Dillon!

[Post Books Here]

In no particular order;

The Dancing Wu-Li Masters, Gary Zukav

Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting, Ed McGivern

Hell, I Was There!, Elmer Keith

Hit The White Part, Massad Ayoob

Far Journeys, Robt. A. Monroe

Ultimate Journey, Robt. A. Monroe

Anything by W.E.B. Griffin

The Inner Game of Tennis, W. Timothy Gallwey

Anything by Bill Bryson

States of Consciousness, Charles T. Tart

[Has anyone read 'The Dancing Wu-Li Masters' by Gary Zukav]

Has anyone read this book? Any thoughts?

[Point (Instinct) Shooting Redux]

As a youngster just learning to shoot... I was a big fan of Lucky McDaniels. Just ordered the book from albris.com.

I was also a big fan of Lucky's "opposite," Ed McGivern. So much so that Ed was a part of my inspiration to move to AZ - you just couldn't practice arial shooting in Ohio.

I love the - just pay total attention to the right thing and let your body work it out - method of learning.

be

I began shooting at about 6 or 7 years with a Daisy Red Ryder BB gun (I am 64 now). I tried using the sights, such as they were, very crude, but couldn't hit anything with it and had no one to instruct me. I resorted to sighting along the left side of the barrel and watching the path of the bb rather than the sights. This predates Lucky McDaniel by many years. I became very proficient with this and could hit birds on the wing regularly with that old Daisy.

Some twenty years later I found I could do the same thing with a '92 Winchester carbine in .44-40, I could briefly see the bullet against the sky in relation to my target, usually a crow, and did some amazing things with that old rifle in this manner.

I also learned to use the sights, but when the action was very fast it was pure instinct shooting, and I was deadly.

It is becoming 'one with the gun' impossible to teach, I have tried many times in my advanced shooting courses when I was in my prime but I would be surprised if anyone learned it that way. I belive it comes down to Zen, or being in the 'zone', which is an incredible experience in itself

The closest explanation of my point or instinct shooting as I tried ti instruct it was to 'be' the bullet and to 'be the bullet' going from the barrel to the target. This was the end stage of the course, having started with shooting dots using the sights (from John Shaw) then a 'flash' sight picture when shooting close and fast, then 'point' or 'instinct' shooting. What modest success I achieved in IPSC was using this method.

So it works for me. It may not work for you. But it might!

Bryan

[Which Bullet weight is best for USPSA?]

As a new shooter, I reply on the input from experienced minds. The question is this...what is your favorite bullet weight for competition shooting? I shoot a Glock 34 in Production class and I reload, so any bullet/powder/primer combo's that you can suggest would be great.

I have moved up to Montana Gold 124gr FMJ and like them a great deal. After attending Bianchi CUp this past week, I read that Glock Superman Dave Sevigney uses 147gr sub-sonic loads (around 970 fps). If it's good enough for Dave???

I, like most of us fight with accuracy, so ideas and suggestions or anything that can lighten the recoil without reducing performance would be welcomed.

So...what's the best and why?

Learn to shoot! A good shooter can shoot anything well, from muzzleloaders to machineguns to mortars. Any difference in loads is largely created in your mind, heavily influenced by advertisements and claims by other shooters that their load/gun/attitude/training is the only way. Go for accuracy. The top shooters are VERY ACCURATE shooters. Learn to shoot.

Bryan

[DON'T UNDERSTAND]

Greetings boys and girls,

IT'S A PROUD DAY FOR THE NEW RELOADER

Well, I'm new to reloading. Also new to USPSA and my shooting habit brought me to purchase a Dillon 650 for reloading. I started out with 9mm, 124 CMJ Montana Gold, 4.5gr Winchester 231 powder and winchester primers in cleaned up one time shot brass. The OAL is 1.150 which I obtained from the Blazer Brass length of a 115 gr. round. At an indoor 10 yd range I shot the factory Blazer 115gr aside my 124 MG relaods to judge the recoil, accuracy and whatever. The recoil may have been a little different but no problem to control and no difference in grouping. Side by side, 70 rounds each, no difference in groups. Looking good and very proud of myself.

HERE COME THE BLUES

I go to a match last night to shoot my stuff and prematch I decide to shoot my goodies at a burm behind the 100 yd targets. It was dry and you could easily see the bullet impact on the burm. Looked like fun to me. Pick out a peice of paper about mid high on the burm and started shooting. First shot-6 ft. high, second shot-6 to 7 ft. high 10 o'clock, third-5 ft. 4 o'clock, forth-4 to 5 ft. 9 o'clock, 5th through 24th shots were all in about a fourteen foot group.

Ain't no way baby!!!

Pulled out a box of factory Blazer 115gr, loaded up and produced a two foot group with twelve rounds. How in the world can two bullets passing through a single four inch barrel go from a two to a fourteen foot group differential???

Question is: WT*?

Over.

When you go to the range, approach a competent shooter, ask him to shoot your gun and ammo and see how it will group. This takes your mistakes/lack of skill out of the picture. Shooters at my club would do just that if they had problems with a gun or load;' give it to Bryan to shoot.' I, in turn, would do the same and ask a better shooter to try my gun and load .Try this, it works.

Bryan

[1050 primer feed problems]

Dillon has not been able to solve this problem. I've spent far too many hours on the phone with them and the machine was returned Dillon and supposedly fixed but it's no better.

Out of every 100 rounds, one or two primers do not feed correctly. When it occurs, one primer, smeared at one side, and another undamaged primer are ejected onto the bench or the floor.

The damaged primer looks like this:

Sorry the pic isn't better.

When this occurs, a case is transferred to the powder station without a primer and depending on the powder, it makes a real mess as it runs out the primer hole. Sometimes I hear the primer get tossed out but not always.

I'm not loading real fast - 400-500 rounds per hour. The primer feed bar was already replaced without affecting anything, and the primer feed tube has been swapped with the one in my 550 where both work fine. I have no similar problems with the 550 so I doubt the Fed 205 primers are the problem. I cycle the lever to the stops at both ends.

Any ideas?

(Edited by kbear38S at 4:27 pm on Aug. 7, 2002)

Be careful with crushed/damaged primers and residue on the 1050 and always wear safety glasses while reloading! I had a primer tube explosion on my 1050 while loading .38 super. The primer bar would hang up occasionally, but seldom crush a primer. The primer bar hung up this once, I reached around to free it but as soon as I touched it the primer magazine exploded. VERY LOUD! A fragment of primer just missed my right eye. Static electricity? I don't know. Might have been friction. On disassembly I found primer compound all over the bottom of the shuttle bar and its track, it had been a while since cleaning, like since new, and I was heavily into competition prep and pressed for time. As I had air in my shop I hooked up a hose and blew any residue out after every session and no more problems. I still have the burst primer tube over my bench as a reminder to wear glasses. Anyone else have a similar problem? Bryan

[Shooting on the Edge]

Is there a benefit for (ever) shooting a stage on the ragged edge as opposed to the "shoot A's as fast as you can call them"?

Not in a match.

I shoot a match almost every weekend, but my only shooting is at the matches

The problem is you are shooting only once a week (maybe) and are expecting to improve. If you want to get better at anything, it requires damn hard consistent work. #1 is to start dry firing every day.

Matches are not and never will be practice. Matches are where you find out what to practice next.

Yes to that.

be

I can see (more clearly now) I that I'm going to need to make a real commitment to get better and that just shooting matches will only get me so far. After pondering the feedback I'm realizing that I need to focus on things the things that really matter. I've been able to apply that in business, relationships, etc. Now I need to apply it to my shooting. It's an interesting (and fun!) journey.

This site is a wealth of experience and info. Thanks for all of replies.

Mike

The best shooters are invariably very accurate shooters. You must be accurate before you can be fast and competitive in matches. Dry firing is the cheapest practice at home, then practice accuracy at the range. I would dry fire 1/2 hour a day through the week, practice 300-400 rounds .45 on Saturday, then shoot a club match (IPSC) in the afternoon, then put that experience to the test in a league or Provincial (Ontario) match on Sunday. I had no bullseye experience or training prior to IPSC, but this regimen allowed me to become very proficient in a few months. So, learn to be accurate, then take a course from the best instructor you can and learn to shoot fast! Bryan