Crabbys44
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Posts posted by Crabbys44
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Blade Tech makes one... It is listed for a 6" 586, not a 686, but there might be an outside chance that it could be made to work
BIG + 1 for Blade Tech. If it's not a stock item, they will make it for you. They made an OWB strongside holster for my 3" 629 .44 Mag. They included the "drop offset" piece that drops the butt down and angles it away from the love handles. This was not a 4" N frame holster they chopped to 3" The "Trail Boss" has a memorable silhouette and the kydex fits like a glove.
For the blasphemers, I had him make a holster for my modified Glock 21 with a next-gen combat light from SureFire attached under the frame, with out a rail. He asked for a week to think about it and I got the holster the next week. The weird curves of the light don't snag on anything. Same draw stroke, presentation, fire, and recovery. I had to remind my self to press check from over the gun but the light is too big to reach around and SAFELY press check.
BTW IIRC the only difference between the 581 and a 686 was the steel, 581 blued,686 stainless. 681 fixed sights 586 adjustable.
Train hard brother!
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Check out tool guy on this forum. He made some replacement front sights for S&W revolvers a while ago. Maybe he still has some or is going to make another run.
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You don't need to lock your thumbs.
You don't want a cammed thumb forward grip on a revolver due to the gasses from the forcing cone.
It wouldn't be comfortable to say the least.
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The Tornado Brushes never worked worth a darn when I used them.
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I have a GP-100 that has about 5 thousand rounds through it. I have a problem with cartridges sticking or not fully seating when loading with a speed loader (.38 Specials, .357 mags are worse). I normally shoot .38 specials and reload with lead bullets. I have checked the size of the bell (and measure the diameter of the cases with a caliper) and test the cartridges by putting them in the cylinder before going to the range. I have had the cylinders chamfered. The impartial seating/sticking problem also occurs with factory ammo.
I am pretty sure the problem has been that the forward part of the cylinders weren't completely clean. I have worked on it with brushes, solvent and JB Compound. I am pretty sure they are clean now. I also think they were clean the last time I shot but the sticking/seating problem arose again after about 4 speed loads (24 rounds). It appears shooting residue is building up very quick at the head of the cartridge. When examined with a light after cleaning there is an obvious ring (as with all revolvers that have been shot) but is not completely smooth after cleaning.
Any suggestions? Is what I am experiencing normal? If not, any thoughts about what the problem is and what I should do about it.
Thanks.
It sounds like you are not getting all of the leading from the cylinders. The "obvious ring" should NOT be there.
What types of brushes are you using? For this particular problem I've found you have to use stainless steel bore brushes. If it is really severe, go with a .38 chamber brush or a .40 bore brush.
I don't reload so anything related to that would be WAGs.
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I wasn't sure where to post it. If it's inappropriate, I'll understand.
if it's not, ROFLMFAO
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Hey guys I am loosing my mind
. Want to buy a Safariland cup holster and not sure what one to get. I have a Model 66 4". I have done my due diligence on the forum and did not find info.On the butt of the gun it has letter K which to me means K frame. All web searches say it is a K frame, my gun smith says it a K frame.
But Safariland lists it as an L frame, I am left handed and the number for the holster I want is 002-09-12. Or am I reading the info on their site wrong?
Help me please
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
Dude, the Model 66 is a K frame.
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I have always sworn by Don Hume leather www.donhume.com. Although it was more work oriented shooting from concealment, it can't hurt to look.
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ok im looking at a Smith and Wesson model 10 but guy tells me its not a 38spl so i take it must be a 38sw can it be changed to a 38spl and would be hard to do anyone know what it might cost
I found an OLD Spanish S&W Model 10 in .32-20, a British one in .38/200, and the .357 Model 10-6 became the Model 13. A lot of the .38/200 were re-chambered in .38 Special but rumor has it the chambers were oversized. And of course the original .38 S&W. Good luck!
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The only that works on my most important balsters (my carry guns):
John Harrison.
http://www.harrisoncustom.com/
It will be done right.
Thanks a lot! Love the dog, mine's white.
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I tried looking at all 122 pages on this topic and didn't find what I needed.
Does anyone know of a reputable gunsmith in Georgia? Near Conyers if possible.
My friend needs a beavertail on his 1911. He likes the Wilson combat models but isn't sure how "drop in" the drop in ones are. If he has to have one fitted, he might as well get the regular beavertail.
Suggestions?
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I carry a ported 3" 629 Trail Boss. I even shot my agency's handgun qualification course with it. I'm told the blast is fierce, but since I'm behind it, I don't notice much. I carry full house 240 grain JHP. There is livestock out where I live and bulls aren't impressed w/ looks.
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I attended a Front Sight class with a guy shooting his j-frame Smith. He would do a LOT of "tactical reloads" to get through his relay. You play how you train and it seems like you like your 5 shooter and carry it.
Take a Four Day Defensive Handgun class at Front Sight. Take about a thousand rounds that you would actually shoot in a situation, or at least shoot practice loads that recoil the same and shoot to the same point of aim as your carry ammo.
If you gain confidence and ability and still want to upgrade, you could try one of the j frame .357s.
I personally carry a 3"bbl .44 magnum w/ 240 grain JHPs.
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Ok... so I just got home from a trip down to LA and checked my favorite websites... i saw that the classifications on the USPSA website have been updated... so I checked my son's latest classification update and found THIS:
Classification for NICOLAS S - A57820
OPEN Class: A Current Pct: 63.048 High Percent: 74.728
LIMITED Class: M Current Pct: 87.506 High Percent: 87.506
LIMITED10 Class: A Current Pct: 49.606 High Percent: 49.606
PRODUCTION Class: U Current Pct: 0.000 High Percent: 0.000
REVOLVER Class: U Current Pct: 0.000 High Percent: 0.000
SINGLESTACK Class: U Current Pct: 0.000 High Percent: 0.000
Congratulations Nick on making Limited master!
Hey Nic,
Congrats! That is sh*t-hot!!!
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YES it will. It takes more concentration, and a lot of dry practice, but it can be done. I'm not competing anymore, but at the top of my game, I could fire, and hit 6 rounds, double action from a stock Model 65, in 1.5 seconds. (I say stock, it did have Pachmeyer(?) grips and 50,000+ dry presses)
I don't know if you can dry practice w/ your .22, but double action is a small obstacle in the shooting game.
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Hi Warren,
Carmoney referred me to you.
I have a S&W 629 "Trail Boss." It has the 3"bbl and MagnaPorting. My problem is I keep melting the plastic insert on the front sight.
I found the pin holding the ramp on, it's about 1/3 from the back of the blade.
I want an all black sight to replace the factory one, preferably a little thinner but the same height. I don't much care if it is a ramp or partridge type.
I teach at Front Sight where speed and accuracy are job requirements, but almost no instructors carry revolvers. Do you have what I need in stock or can you refer me to the right place? I have decent mechanical skills and few tools, so the simpler the better.
Thanks,
John
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"All right, they're on our left, they're on our right, they're in front of us, they're behind us...they can't get away this time"
- Lewis B. "Chesty" Puller, USMC
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I am planning on buying a new front sight for my S&W 625. Currently I have a black partridge sight on the gun, but I would like something that stands out better. I have browsed through the forums already trying to find a recommendation for this but to date I haven't had any luck finding information.
I am planning on a SDM front sight and a millet rear sight (if I can find a black target sight). My question is what color would you get for the front sight?
Green Fiber Optic
Red Fiber Optic
Gold Beat
Thanks for your recommendations.
Jeremy
Is your front sight the standard "OEM" pinned blade (for lack of better terminology)?
If so, where did you get it, and can I get the one you have if you replace it?
I have the 629 with the ramp front sight and plastic insert. I want a just plain black sight.Thanks,
John
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I am looking to replace the factory sights on my G34, can someone suggest a good set, I have looked at various FO front and adj rear sight sets but am not sure which would be recommended, any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
Dawson Precision black on black, no fiber optic.
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I was originally trained to switch eyes when I switched hands, especially on barricades. It never made any difference to me; with just one eye open, it becomes the dominant one automatically. I have heard and seen people who cannot close their firing side eye, so then it becomes an issue.
IMHO try both, see what works best for you. BTW after 20 years of training and competing, I don't switch eyes anymore, but that's just me.
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Torn between putting this in the gallery and in what I like. Last year the lovely Ms. Neomet finally made an honest man out of me. Well, she knows how much I love shooting so as a wedding present she ordered me this. A full-on Ed Cameron custom Open gun and Hsmith mags. Still needs to go to hardchrome but figured I would share some photos now. I suck at camera work so be warned.
I am the luckiest man in the world and have known it for the last five years. This is only the latest example as to why.
May all your loves be as great as mine.
Congrats!!! You are a lucky man indeed!
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Kevlar bra? The woman must be extremely well endowed.
Jimmy,
Just do what my son is going to do when my grand daughter is old enough to date. Meet the young man at the door, invite him in and then while showing him the 12 gauge shotgun behind the front door you ask if he understands the point you are trying to make to him.
I bet he does.CYa,
Pat
Daughters are God's revenge for being a man. Dunno who said it first, but I'm glad both my kids are boys
As for some grandfatherly advice, take the young man aside and say:
"If you make her cry, I will make you cry." or
"Remember the sex barrier method, I am the barrier and there will be NO sex." or
"I have a 12 guage and 10 acres, no-one will ever find the body." or Bob Engvall's favorite:
"I have no problem going BACK to prison." or Cathy Bate's from "American Outlaws"
"I have to pray for guidance...the lord says bury them in the orchard, nobody will find them."
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I had lunch with a friend yesterday and the subject went to selling guns. He mentioned that he was going to sell all his guns except for the ones he competes with and carrys on a regular basis. He stated that he just doesn't have the time for the rest and that he feels the rest are just taking time away from his true passion of competing with his pistols.
I started thinking about it last night and now I am thinking the same thing. I have a large amount of long guns that I may shoot once a year if not less and I started stock piling ammo for that I may never shoot. So the question is how many guns is too many. I could sell quite a few and just keep the ones I compete with and pay off some bills or keep them all and every time I open the safe wonder what am I doing with all of this.
I know I am opening myself up here but what do you guys think.
That is a rhetorical question, right?
There is no such thing as too many guns. (or too much ammo)
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Hey all,
I would like to know about the Remington 1100. If I were to pick up a stock 12 gauge 1100 that is used and several years old, could I shorten the barrel without having any reliability problems or any other trouble in other areas? I am talking about going down to say 20 inches or so. Basically I would be turning a hunting gun into a Home Defense gun. I would also want to add a mag extension and other accessories that would be a benefit for use in a HD situation.
What do you all think about such a project? Anything to watch out for that would cause problems?
Thanks for the help.
BD
Keep it over 18" and you won't have to worry about jack boots!
I've used 18" 11-87s and never had any problems. Of course we only shot Fiocci 00 and slugs!
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Hey Flex,
Thanks for revisiting this topic!!
Note:I broke this question out of another thread... - Admin.
I have a question for the experienced handgun gurus. I am having difficulty adjusting to "front sight" focus, this leaves the target blurry and I realize the eye can't accommodate both within focus; however this seems counter-intuitive and find myself re-focusing on the target. I am working on this and curious if this is common or am I just a newbie being a newbie.
John
The front sight is the most important thing to focus on for consistent hits. As for being a newbie, we all were at one time and someone had to teach us too.
There are 3 fundamentals of marksmanship.
1. sight alignment
a. The front sight must be centered in the rear sight with the top of the sight level with the top of the rear sight and an equal amount of daylight on each side of the front sight.
2. sight picture
a. Place your perfect sight alignment where you want the bullet to impact on your target.
3. trigger control
a. The MOST IMPORTANT. You must be able to smoothly press the trigger to the rear until the shot breaks without disturbing your sight alignment or sight picture.
Your focus on the front sight should be so hard that you can count the lines of the cuts across the rear face of the front sight.
As you develop your skills, (HINT including lots of dry practice) you will learn about things like indexing and natural point of aim. For a beginner, or all of us in reality, you must master the fundamentals first.
. Want to buy a Safariland cup holster and not sure what one to get. I have a Model 66 4". I have done my due diligence on the forum and did not find info.
I have the 629 with the ramp front sight and plastic insert. I want a just plain black sight.
Blood Lead Levels & Revolvers
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Mooney covered all of the hot spots.
The big one is to stop using exposed lead based bullets.
Also, primers have lead in them. I know there was a lead free primer made, I don't know if it still is or not.
DO NOT SMOKE while shooting. You'll suck in a much higher lead dose from your hands, the air, etc.
Do not eat, drink, or chew tobacco until after you have washed your hands with soap and water. This will limit ingesting lead.
It's easier to prevent exposure than "cure" it.