Antoine
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Posts posted by Antoine
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They work perfectly in my 1911. Never ever got a fail to fire. The cup is hard though and you can feel it when you try to seat them.
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I got both FMJ and JHP from Zero. The JHP bullet will seat deaper in the case since it's a little bit longer. Might want to back your charge by a bit if you want to maintain the same velocity.
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Yes, my local club have some SRT coming shortly but someone told be that it is not recommend to install a SRT in a 226 X Five as it does not share the same internals. Is it true? The long reset is killing my splits right now.
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Thanks for your response. Unfortunetly, I'm from Canada and sending stuff like that across the border can be a PITA.
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Hello all, I just bought the Sig X Five All Around for the production division. I put almost 1000 rounds in the gun and so far so good. Got a few stoppages that hopefully will dissapear when the gun will be broken in completely. My biggest concern is the trigger pull, actually, more like the trigger reset. I know that Sig makes a SRT trigger for the 226 line of pistol and I was sondering if I can install this trigger in the All Around. Also, I would like to know how to remove the firing pin?
Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
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Is there any Canadian friendly dealer that I can purchase that item? Because of ITAR, I can't export most of the good stuff.
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Sounds like a plan. Will it be reliable though?
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Okay so on my last IPSC match, I got bumped in open because I did not make the trigger pull. The minimum requirement is 5 lbs and mine did 4 lbs and 5 oz. My M&P is 6 months old and I didn't touch anything. A buddy of mine who have the same gun got also bumped into open. Called Smith & Wesson and there's no fix for it, the gun is made this way. Wolff doesn't offer a stronger hammer spring.
What can I do to increase the trigger pull over 5 lbs?!? I have a bug match in July and I don't want to screw that up.
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thanks for the heads up. Bought 500 of these before and will buy it again.
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Yeah I thought about that, thanks for your imput jmorris.
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Hi guys,
When you roll size, do you still need to full size? I have zero experience with this method and I asked someone to roll size some 9mm brass for me. At my surprise, most of them had an oversize neck so the bullet would drop free. I thought that a roll sizer was a 1 step process.
I reprocess all my brass on my XL650 and noticed that I still have that ugly coke bottle profile. Why does a commercial reloader can produce some nice reload that looks like factory ammo and my reloads looks terrible?
Any imput will be appreciated.
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I am looking for a 550B to load some 38 supercomp. If I recall, I need the 380ACP conversion kit, right? Also, will the die set for 38 super work for 38 supercomp?
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Thanks again to take the time answering me.
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I an certainly not a Devil May Care person, but I also know that reloading books are a guide to start your reloading. The upper ends of most of the data in the books, are written in close consultation with the legal department. I start with the book, and move up in very small increments, looking for pressure signs in the cases with each shot. I think that you will find that many of the "Maximum loads" will not even make Minor PF. I know with my Open gun in 38SC using VV3n37 or VV3n38, most major loads are nearly 25% - 2gr over the listed maximum in the book.
And to that, all guns are different, so you have to work up any load slowly, and not just load from the book.
I shoot Clays in my .40 Limited gun with 200gr bullets. Not in the book. But by asking what others were using, and dropping down 10% from there to start, I have worked up a nice soft, safe load.
Just my opinion.
Mark
Your load is .5 grains above the book load and thats using a lead bullet. I have only seen clays and 147 in the lyman reloading manual.
I have been shooting 3.3gr of Clays under Zero 147 JHPs loaded out to 1.14 for my para What I am I missing -
Mark K
Thanks a lot Mark K. I will try it and be carefull.
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lol thanks! I think I'll pass.
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I searched and found only 1 recipe with a small pistol non magnum. I got magnum primers... Am I screwed?
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Well, I think I like Blue too, but still not sure...
Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa? You sir, are not fooling around.
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I will definetly inspect these and let you know.
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Guys, I know about the shellplate brass tip setscrew. The shellplate bolt keep loosening up no matter how tight I torque the setscrew. This setscrew is still jammed up pretty good but it does not prevent the shellplate bolt from getting loose. Should I order these 2 parts from Dillon?!? halp!!
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Now that I put more than 1000 rounds with this new upgrade, I think it's worthless. Sure it works perfectly when the shellplate screw is tight but it will get loose after 100 rounds making the shellplate snap again. Is there a cure for this?
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I installed my kit today. I noticed a smoother operation but no matter how tight the screw is, it will get a little nit slack.
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I will try to take it appart. In the mean time, I called Dillon for a free replacement but they charged me for shipping to Canada. That's a first, I never paid anything before.
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I had great results with:
W231
Titegroup
Unique
H335
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Found the problem:
I guess that mlmiller1 was right
As you can see, the defective part on the left doesn't sit flush with the brass bushing, grinding on my primer wheel. I still don't understand how it ended up like this?!? Can I fix this part or order a replacement?
Note to self...
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Yup, lol. Been there, done that.