an1913t
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Posts posted by an1913t
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A little off topic, but what barrel are you using? Do you like it?
Thanks.
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Ken,
Great info. Thanks.
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ANeat,
In your OP, you state:
"Yes a 90 degree cutter was used. No one reason, it points up at less depth, still feels great, and I had the cutter already."
If you hadn't already had the 90 degree cutter, is there something else that you think would do a better job? Basically asking because I don't have a 90 degree cutter and figured I'd get the best tool, if you feel like there might be something better.
Thanks for the great thread.
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Did anyone look at the Premier 1x8 at SHOT this year? Wondering if it might be a good cadidate. I've heard is is supposed to be released later this year.
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Awesome looking gun. Video skills stink.
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Wideners: Wolf Primers (most varieties) - $25/k
I like the direction prices are headed. Looks like we are actually starting to see some of the mfg's catching up with production . . . prices will drop unless there is another run for political reasons.
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It is very interesting to follow the thread on this subject on SH. I have to admit that the cases look great after using the SS media, including the primer pockets. I'm waiting though to see if there are any issues with work hardening - should be an even bigger issue with rifle brass given the pressure differences.
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Ken,
Took the words right out of my mouth.
Seriously though, some of the best surpluss out there.
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I know some folks have commented on "1x" not being 1x on some scopes and indicating that this is a bad thing. In talking with an actual scope designer, I was told that true 1x in a scope does funny things with human eyes and that a 1.1-1.2x will actually appear 1x to most people when they are looking through the scope and have both sides open better than a true 1x. All that, just to say that it may not be a bad thing when you see scopes that aren't an exact 1x at "1x".
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So the bottom line is - pick the color you like and go shoot.
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Use it as fertilizer - it is high in nitrogen content.
Better yet, just send the offending rounds to me and I'll take care of them for you.
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If you need someone in the DFW area to give it a test run, let me know. I could use it as an excuse to try to convince the boss that I need to get an AR10 . . . I can just hear it now "You want to get another .308 rifle so you can shoot 12ga???"
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Definitely give the Federals a try. The Remington's are known to cause this type of issue. Also, check to make sure it is completely smooth without a mag loaded. I had an issue at one point with a high bolt stop rubbing on the conversion unit. Finally, some of these kits like to run really wet and others completely dry. Give it a try each way and see if it makes a difference.
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The biggest plus that I've seen is the very clean primer pockets and no media stuck in the primer holes. Anyone else have thoughts about it? The cases do look really good after going through the process.
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Pat's Reloading - Win LP, LR, SP $35/k $160/5K
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Shibby,
Slightly off topic, but I was wondering what you think of your targetmaster conversion and if you have had a chance to compare it to some other other coversions available like the Spikes, CMMG, or TacSol. Thanks.
I just got a Targetmaster .22 conversion for my AR. Visit the link for details, but the short of it is it replaces your bolt allowing you to shoot .22 without any modifications to your upper.
So I tried it out yesterday and everything worked fine, but I didn't think about having a comp on my rifle. I know shooting lead through a compensated pistol is bad, but what about the lead .22's going through my rifle's comp?
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A .22 can really let you focus on issues like follow through where the recoil and noise of a centerfire cause problems. It is just another part of the training arsenal along with things like dry firing that can help people reach the next level and beyond.
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Roedale makes a clamp on brake. It is typically used on bolt guns, but with the right muzzle diameter, I don't see why it wouldn't work on an AR.
http://www.webshop.roedale.de/index.php?cat=c89_Muzzle-Brakes.html
Make one that fits unthreaded barrels and I'll buy it. Some of us are stuck in New Jersey and have to scrounge for old breaks that no one makes anymore.
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I did some digging on arfcom, and it looks like there may be a couple of folks working on a commercial version of this idea. The two names I ran across were Bohica and Fidelis Arms. Unfortunately, I didn't see a timetable from anyone.
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I spent a lot of times watching one of the guys from my club early on. I came up with all sorts of questions I didn't know and wouldn't have known to ask without actually watching the process.
An offer to pay for a dinner or beer (only for after the reloading) can usually get you in wherever you want to go.
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The boss isn't going to be happy with me adding another toy to the "absolutely need to get" list.
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Can you provide any more specifics on how the Miculek is better - less felt recoil, less muzzle jump, etc? Also, is it possible to get some specifics on the system you are using it on, e.g. barrel length, weight, etc? Thanks.
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Dry fire practice can likely help. Just be sure to repeat on the range what you do in practice - watch those sights and follow through. A lot of times you can spot the bad habits much easier this way and work to correct them.
Hi everyone,
I am a beginner to pistols & revolvers & greatly appreciate your comments / tips.
My groupings are spread out vertically & seem to get lower with each shot.
Shots typically, even first shots, impact slightly below my aimpoint.
It's funny, because, doesn't matter what i use, Colt 1911, Glock 17, CZ 75, Tangfolio.
Many Thanks
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Everything I've read (mostly on arfcom) indicates that the .40 mags are going to be an RRA proprietary design that has yet to be released. I seem to recall someone who had talked with RRA saying that the mags may even be part of the design they are working on. We'll just have to wait and see.
DIY Machine cut checkering
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Thanks for the info.