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BigCat88

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Posts posted by BigCat88

  1. Very wet in the bolt and rails, light oil on piston, and all I use now is Remington black hull game loads for birdshot, and my buckshot and slugs in the 1350 fps area. Altough I've had no issues using lighter clay loads, I use a little heavier stuff as a precaution. Works for me.

  2. I've got a Nordic in my SLP. I was a little worried about the "loose" fit a first too. Mine seems to have about 1/16" wiggle and pulls out with easy to moderate pull. Of course each person opinion of moderate is subjective. Anyhow I took the original charge handle to my first match and stuck it in my pocket. The second match took it with, but carried it to each stage in the case. Now it rides slong in the spare parts/tool kit. Of course I'm sure you will be taking your new scatter gun out and shoting at least 100 rounds through it before shooting a match. So you will know before you get there if it will hold or not. Good luck man.

  3. Friend said hash marks on bottom chevron is about the only improvement.

    Do you know how many hash marks?

    I was told 4 or 5... Not sure why they shortened the tube length either...

    Uh, material savings? IDK

    I wonder if the pricing will be in line with the former Meo or try to compete with the Burris?

    I'm sure it'll compete with the retail price of the Burris XTR... Heard it'll be in the $1000 range but that's retail I think.

    Thanks man. Good info. Still gonna look for a pic......I just have to know!

    np... I'm dying to see one as well... But I really want that new Short Dot 1-8x24 :)

    Tell you what...you buy me that new S&B short dot and I'll pay our hotel room charges for every match we shoot together this year. :cheers:

  4. Friend said hash marks on bottom chevron is about the only improvement.

    Do you know how many hash marks?

    I was told 4 or 5... Not sure why they shortened the tube length either...

    Uh, material savings? IDK

    I wonder if the pricing will be in line with the former Meo or try to compete with the Burris?

    I'm sure it'll compete with the retail price of the Burris XTR... Heard it'll be in the $1000 range but that's retail I think.

    Thanks man. Good info. Still gonna look for a pic......I just have to know!

  5. Friend said hash marks on bottom chevron is about the only improvement.

    Do you know how many hash marks?

    I was told 4 or 5... Not sure why they shortened the tube length either...

    Uh, material savings? IDK

    I wonder if the pricing will be in line with the former Meo or try to compete with the Burris?

  6. Some guys like the side saddle, some don't. I would recommend putting the velcro base on it and then you have the option to stick it on quickly shoudl you need it. It comes in handy on an all shotgun stage (or match) when you have birdshot, buck and slugs all on the same stage, and you have to transition back and forth between all three loads. At minimum I'd get the two shell holder that goes on the forearm. If you miss a target or misscount reloading or drop a shell, its nice to be able to keep your weapon shouldered, reach forward, grab one shell and just slide it back, hit the button and fire off that last needed round. And put on some type of bolt release cover of your choice.

  7. Just different strokes for different folks. There is no "wrong" shotty of any the previously mentioned. If you shoot it well and are confident with it, then that is the one for you. I personally am on the FN bandwagon, its been great for me. I was one of only a handfull of people that had the FN @ HPSC last year. Now that it has had a rise in popularity this year, I'm curious to see how many show up this year. And the reason I sinlge out HPSC is of course being shotty specific. Have also been thinking of building an SX3 after shooting a match with 00Bullit.

  8. Not sure if this is the right place for this but....

    I hear there was a 4.0 earthquake in Jones Oklahoma today. It was the thrid one since Sunday. The first two being a 2.8 and a 3.3 magnitude. Is everybody OK down there? Any damage to any property or the OKC gun club? Probably not the gun club I would guess. Its farther north and west of Jones. Just checking on you guys. Hope all is well.

  9. Slowsure,

    Keep after em!

    Catman

    Well in my world my housing is level, my reticle is level, and my elevation/windage adjust vertical and horizontal not on diagonals....maybe for you that's too much....for me its a minimum so that I know the equipment is right and I can work on me where most of the problem lies.

    Admiting the problem is the first step. See you therapy. :roflol:

  10. Be carefull about leveling the XTR. Mine was alittle more than 1 1/2 degrees off from bottom flat of turret housing to retical vertical line :angry2:

    I set the vertical line.....vertical.....and left the housing canted. FWIW.

    I realize that for the most part you will not be dialing adjustments much with the Burris reticle, however the only true solution to you problem is to get the scope fixed. As it sits you have a vertical reticle but canted adjustments, so if you ever choose to dial dope in the elevation turret it will incrementally add windage at a rate relative to the reticle cant.

    The only way to level a scope is off the housing, that insures that my reticle and housing are in alignment and therefor the adjustments should correspond and be repeatable. If in that process I find my reticle canted the scope goes back until it is either fixed or the faulty product is replaced. I see no benefit in paying $600+ for a scope that's broken.

    I understand your attempt to fix low budget manufacturing by hanging plumb bobs, singing songs, and only doing the mounting while the moon is full, but in the end you are just compensating for poor build quality.

    Good advise. This is exactly why the level on the housing is unreliable. You have to align with the rifle level, and use the reticle to align. If you want it right.

    Tod has probably described the best "Home Boy" method you requested.

    Its not unreliable, it is 100% reliable for a scope that is manufactured correctly. You say for it if you want it to be right the reticle has to align with the rifle. What about the adjustments, if all three components are not in alignment IT IS NOT RIGHT!

    My intent is not to call you guys out, but we pay a lot for our optics. Coming up with compensatory mechanisms to mount canted reticles only continues the problem. If we quit compensating for the manufacturers quality standards we will all benefit from better product.

    In a perfect world.......

  11. Be carefull about leveling the XTR. Mine was alittle more than 1 1/2 degrees off from bottom flat of turret housing to retical vertical line :angry2:

    I set the vertical line.....vertical.....and left the housing canted. FWIW.

    Good advise. This is exactly why the level on the housing is unreliable. You have to align with the rifle level, and use the reticle to align. If you want it right.

    Tod has probably described the best "Home Boy" method you requested.

  12. I have a burris PEPER 30mm mount for my XTR and other than eyeballing it (which Ive done successfully for years) is there an easier method to make sure my scope is level?

    thanks

    If you have buddy that owns a laser bore sighter. Cabelas has a little plastic sleeve with a level that goes over the laser, which creates a horizontal lazer line. Then simply line up your cross hair on that. It works really well.

    After our XD/92FS swap, I still have those MecGar 18 rd mags I found burried in the back of the safe. If you want to buy those, I'd let you borrow my laser setup. I could just ship it along with the mags for you to use then just ship it back when your done settig up you scope.

    Also curious if you have that 92 tricked out yet? Any pics?

    Ed

  13. While the FN does not have a vent rib, I still wouldn't put it in the "non vent rib" category as the little rail on top and the front sight act as a raised rail in a way. It isn't a rail, but it is a long way from looking at a low mounted bead at the end of a long smooth barrel. My FN is a long way from sighting down the barrel of my old Win model 12. Just my .02. I know this is serious thread drift, so I'm not trying to derail anything. Sorry in advance.

    Very good point. But concerning flyers, if a person is shooting instinctively, does it matter (rib/no rib)? I aim my rifles and point my shotgun. :cheers:

  14. Non vent rib barrels suck large for flying targets and are harder to point.

    Just my .02.

    I would disagree on the non-vent rib comment. When I fist got my FN SLP MK1, I took it to the sporting clays (100 rounds)course to break it in, and did just as well as with my O/U Beretta Sporting. Ribbed v. non-rib barrel = push, in the right hands. And when they stick those flyers in with the steels and poppers....haven't missed one.......YET. (knocking on wood)

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