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Chris_C

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Posts posted by Chris_C

  1. I have the same gun and am left handed too.  It seems the best you can do for safeties is Tanfo part number 102117.  The right side safety won’t be as big as the left side that’s on the gun now.  

     

    As far as flipping the safety, you have to almost take the entire lower end apart.  The trigger has to come out then you can pull the magazine catch plunger out.  I installed a CGW Canik trigger pin when I put mine back together.   The slave pin that comes with the CGW pin makes reassembly a lot easier (the hard part is getting the trigger and trigger return spring back in). 

  2. I am thinking of picking up a Witness Limited Xtreme and am left handed.  Does anyone know where I can get a thumb safety set that is reversed (wide safety on the right side and narrower safety on the left)?  I’d also settle for a wider safety on just the right side and then I’d recontour the factory left hand side down. 

     

    Thanks 

  3. I got my non pro today. This is my first hands on experience with a PPQ. The trigger is nicer than I expected. The grip panels are removable but mine didn’t come with any other sizes.  I’m not sure if they offer other sizes or not?  With some luck it’ll make it to the range this weekend. 

    BEFD6DAE-EA2B-4D77-B781-B58E3829AD2C.jpeg

  4. I just installed an EGW ambi thumb safety on a 1911.  Everything seems right, but the joint between the two sides is so tight that I can't remove the safeties to disassemble the gun now.  I imagine I could pry under the safety with a small screw driver but I'm scared of scratching the finish.  Any tips?

  5. For those that say the STI has better fit, finish, and internals than the Para - are you talking Paras built in the past, or specifically the new Pro Comp? Here's how I compare the STI Sentry I had to my new Para Pro Comp:

    Finish: the Sentry was blued and the Para is Ionbond. Both were equally nice from a finish quality standpoint (matter of choice on what finish you think looks better), but there is little doubt that the Ionbond will outlast the bluing. And once the Ionbond does wear through, the Para frame and slide are stainless.

    Machining: I add this as part of the finish picture. I'll call the frames even. The Para slide however is machined much nicer than the STI was. Both STI 1911s I've had have had helical tool marks on the inside of the slide whereas the Para is nice and smooth. In fact I have a high dollar custom built on an STI slide and Master series frame and it's slide has those tool marks too. The Para did have one small burr on the inside of the frame in the channel where the barrel link sits. I knocked that off with my thumbnail and you'd never know it now. Not that any of this affects the performance or even quality, but you'd notice the difference if you compared the two side by side.

    Fit: I honestly don't recall how my Sentry was, so I can't make a comparison here. I can say that if my Para were any tighter, with frame to slide or the barrel fit, it simply wouldn't run. There is no perceptible movement of the slide relatively to the frame, either laterally or vertically. The same with the barrel. With the slide closed I can't move the barrel either by pushing on it in the ejection port area nor the bushing area.

    Internals: this is more of a question mark. The Para has an EGW HD extractor which seems nicer than what was in the STI. I beleive my STI had an S7 sear which I know is nice. I have no idea what ignition components are in the Para. Good or bad, I can't make a comparison here.

    I bought my Para as a backup to my custom so it doesn't get a ton of use. But I think it's a heck of a gun for the money. I also think a lot of people that knock the Para do so on their (past?) reputation. Today's Pro Comp is a very nice pistol, and I'm very picky. As soon as I see one of the 9mm Pro Comps I'll pick up one of those too.

  6. I've never actually broke any of these things, but I'd get a spare slide stop and a replacement trigger return spring. I'd also go ahead and replace the trigger pin with a CGW trigger pin so it's easier to work on if you do have to change the spring at a match.

  7. I have two P30Ls and two regular P30s. While I doubt the mechanical accuracy (think Ransom Rest) is much different, I shoot the L models better. I think these are one of the more accurate factory polymer guns.

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