[M2 Vent Rib Rear Sight]

I'm not I understand flush ?? In that picture the sight is set-up to shoot a slug on paper,

the rib is flat to view, the impact is going to be at the very top edge of the front bead, and the

rear white paint notch is to line up with the bead right to left for windage. For birshot you just

look down the rib, flattening it out and put the bead right on the plate or popper.

All this ofcoarse you have to verify for your shotgun as to where yours hits at different distances.

You then can adjust the height of the bead to what you want by trying different ones. The only difference

from person to person is your cheek weld, or lack of a good one. Your eye is the rear sight when using

just the rib and bead.

Thanks for the info. By "flush" I meant as you described "rib is flat to view".

[M2 Vent Rib Rear Sight]

After using my Benelli M2 for a few months now with a rear sighting modification I made to the rear of the rib (for slug shooting of course) I thought I would share it with you all. It is very simple, I simply ground a groove in the rear of the rib where it slopes down towards the receiver and then filled the groove with white paint. The resultant sight picture with the fiber optic front sight is similar to the old Berretta 92 sights with two dots, one slightly above the other. My first trip to the range was with a piece of masking tape attached to the back of the rib with a pencil line dead center to make sure the point of aim centered to the barrel was matching the point of impact. In my case with my choke choice it was dead on. I simply used the pencil line as my starting point and started grinding. I started carefully with a dremel abrasive cut off wheel and finished it up with a round gunsmith file. A little at a time and a little trial and error I had the shape to give a perfect dot when sighting down the barrel. When not shooting slugs I do not even notice it is there. Having a spot to index the front sight on has been a tremendous help to making more accurate slug shots.

I've been shooting shotgun for some time, but have never been taught the correct sight picture. Is the correct, or conventional sight picture, to have the bead flush with the vent rib rib, as in your first picture?

[Sights? Never use them.]

Deleted. Answered elsewhere.

[SLP tacticals with receiver rail...can I take it off?]

Jason,

given the date of your post, you've probably already got your answer. Yes, the rail can be removed. Mine needed some metal taken of the bottom to make it level; it was done by my gunsmith. No problem. I wound up selling mine because I thought the tactical rail reduced flexibility of optics and barrel swapping; can't swap in a cantilever barrel.

[Which model FN SLP sights]

+1 on the cantilever set up. I had an FN SLP with the ghost sights; you really need to ensure that the rear sight is tight to on the tactical rail (comes loose will definitely affect accuracy). Not sure if it makes a difference for your purposes, but the cantilever adds flexibility; you can swap in the rifled barrel should you choose without disturbing the sight set up. Not the same if the ghost ring is on the rear reciever. Also, swapping in a cantilever won't fit with the tactial rail installed on the rear reciever.

[Owners Manual for FN SLP]

Hi everyone. I picked up a FN SLP tonight but it did not have an owners manual. I checked the FN website and there was not an online manual available. I am going to email them and see if they will ship me one.

In the meantime, does anyone have any maintenance tips or methods of lubrication and cleaning?

Thank you.

The winchester manual pretty much covers the bases (had an FN SLP). Used Tetra gun grease on bolt/bolt carrier contact points. For brass ring by gas port, occassionally brushed the brass ring near the gas port to remove carbon (used Ballistol). Top part of pistons need to be brushed (Ballistol) used q-tips to get carbon out of the piston ports (some recommend occassionally soaking the pistons in solvent on occassion, but never tried it myself). Best to keep lube on the exterior of the mag tube, where the interior of the piston makes contact, to a minimum (I usually apply a very small amount of Tetra and the wipe it off). Cleaned it after each range trip. Have run over 500 shells, no problem.

Brian Payne makes a good point on the pistons.

[Benelli Bolt/carrier]

The pistol grip stock has more drop at the heel.If the star's are alinged right, it will run lite loads. Main cause is when you tighten the nut that holds the stock to the mainspring tube it will flex the tube slightly & cause the spring & plunger tube to rub & presto a jam.

Will this problem (tube flex) occur if you use the shim in the comfortech stock to increase the drop at heel?

[What is it?]

...ripple on still water, when there is no pebble tossed...