heckle
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Posts posted by heckle
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When using 3D text fill in the text that you want and select "place" then drag it to the top of the target until it says "endpoint in group", it will take a little work to get the text to stand up and be above the target while still saying endpoint in group. Once you do this the text will stay with the target.
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To my eye her finger is quite clearly inside the trigger guard. Of course as others have stated, one frame doesn't tell the whole story.
But my point in posting in this thread is to say that I have not once, ever, seen anyone DQ'd for finger-in-the-guard. I can recall in detail two occasions when I should have done so as the RO, and have witnessed dozens, perhaps hundreds, of occasions when another RO either missed it or let it slide.
Perhaps it's a regional thing... is this strictly enforced anywhere else?
Thats a good question, Ive only seen someone DQ'd for finger in the trigger guard once and it was during a reload. If we enforce it more I think you would see less AD's.
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Last summer I had the same thing happen. I was the RO and the shooter (right handed) was moving from right to left his hands were low and I didnt have a good view of the gun, I new he was close to the 180 but couldnt tell for shure so I did not stop him at this time. The scorekeeper was on the left side of the range and about 10ft behind the rear fault line. The shooter finished that array then moved down range around a wall and performed his reload doing so he had broke the 180, I stop him and explained why, while I was talking to the shooter the scorekeeper came up and said that he had also broken the 180 at the first wall, but did not say anything even though the gun was pointing at him. Once the shooter left, I informed the scorekeeper that he is an RO (certified or not) and if you see it call it.
We do what we can to help new shooters and new RO's, safety first.
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Seems to be working now.
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I run zero's in my limited and find that the jhp's feed better then the fmj flat points, both run but the jhp's feel smoother. Thats with mags loaded to 20+
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Mark,
When you move targets and especially fault lines make sure that you stay red/green axis (after you place a prop they will drop down if you dont move them staight forward, back, left, right not at an angle). If you only have to move a prop a short distance sometimes its beter to move it farther in the other direction and then back just to see the red/green lines. The other option is to do a copy/paste then the props can be move at any angle until you let go of them.
Good luck at the inaugural CRC match, sorry I wont be able to make the first one.
Matt
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Question for you Tanfoglio afficianodos.
Small frame vs Large frame guns. what parts are different? what parts are interchangeable? would a 9mm or .40 mag from a small frame fit a large frame gun?
thanks for the info.
Stuart,
Parts that are different are:
Frame
Slide
Trigger bar
Firing pin
Grips
Magwell
Mags
The rest of the parts should interchange.
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This may help too
It would help more if there were narration but...
You seem to be switching between two windows, is that two instances of the program running or is there some way to have two files open at the same time?
You can run two scketchup programs at once, I run one for props and one for the stage im designing. Windows 7 works awsome you can set both windows side by side and copy/paste from one to the other while still being able to see both.
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I am iffy on the wording on this one so please correct/shorten/suggest alternatives:
Box Cars
12 Metric, 3 poppers, 5 plates
Standing inside of shooting area, unloaded handgun placed unsupported on either barrel with slide forward or cylinder closed and hammer down and one magazine or speed loader on opposite barrel. Upon signal shooter must load the handgun from the magazine or speed loader on the barrel then engage targets as visible from within the shooting area.
If you leave it (one magazine or speed loader on opposite barrel) then the shooter doesnt have to use it, since you didnt say they had to. How about this.
Standing behind barrel b1 or b2, handgun is unloaded(rule8.1.3) on b1 or b2 with trigger guard centered on X, first loading device must come from opposite barrel.
The only problem I see is that if its madetory to use the first loading device and I drop it in the dirt do I still have to use it? At what point have I used the (first loading device must come from barrel)?
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I drilled and tapped a hole through the top of the sight and put a set screw in mine, that fixed it for about 2 years. While shooting a match sunday I found that pin in the front had walked half way out, I think im just going to weld the POS solid, until henning comes up with a better one.
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Does this mean that you can't bend the front of the feed lips towards each other, with for instance pliers, in order to acheive a distance somewhere between .380 and .390?
Thats how I adjust mine. I try to go back as far as possible, but the front of the feed lips is the important part.
Not sure what 38 mags need to be set at, .385 is where I try to keep my 40mags.
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When you can repeat the failure by manually racking the rounds take a close look at the brass of the bottom round. I have seen double feed issues like this happen when there is a sharp edge at the bottom of the breach. This ledge at the bottom of the breach face is what picks up the rounds out of the magazine. If the corner of this ledge is sharp it will dig into the round below and try to feed it at the same time. This will be evident by a significant score mark on the side of the brass where the sharp ledge dug into the case and pulled it forward.
When you are shooting and it stove pipes you need to save the brass and closely inspect it for marks or dings as this will tell you where the brass is hitting causing it to linger too long near the chamber causing a jam. Those kind of stove pipe jams are usually due to a weak extractor spring or if the extractor depth isn't tuned deep enough. Are you tuning the depth of the Extractor per Hennings reccomendation on his website? If that was my gun I would throw a new extractor spring in it, tune the extractor to the correct depth and make sure the feed lips on my magazines are not spread too far apart. Then if the jamming continued I would closely inspect the brass to see where its hitting and make changes as needed.
If the feed lips are too wide it will allow the second round to sit too high and the breach could be hitting that second round because of it. OP said feed lips are at .415-.421 and .382 that sounds way wide to me, we are running 40cal mags at .380-.385 definitely no more then .390.
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Nealio, thank you sir for your precise input, I will PM you. But I am perplexed! I just bought a new pistol from Tanfoglio that is supposed to function properly as delivered directly from the factory and yet I must spend additional $, which waters down the supposed good Tanfoglio deal, to make it properly function? And after I do all that if it still somehow is damaged what will that do to the warranty? All of this just does not seem right to me.
I've owned a 9mm Tanfoglio since November of 2001 and it's been simply a flawless pistol, even though I've not shot it much the last 5 or so years. It's reliable, accurate, and fits me to a T so I can't imagine that 10 years later Tanfoglio's gone in the wrong direction with their 10mm match.
Here's how I would look at it, there are only a handfull of companies producing a 10mm (mainly for liability and reliability reasons), youve purchased a fairly inexpensive 10mm and want it to last, spend the extra couple $ and a little time to ensure that happens. Don't think of it as Tanfoglio's aren't what they use to be, your running a much hotter load then a 9mm. If anything happens install "all" the factory parts and send it back for warranty, you shouldn't have any problems.
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How tall were the barricades? Did you shoot over, under, or around them? I would like to set this stage for a local match.
Thanks for the info.
Walls are all 4' X 8', the wall on the left was set on the ground so that the shooter(s) had to shoot over it, these targets were set on the ground with lay down target stands, the wall in the middle was 2'off the ground and was used to block the shooters view of the targets, the wall to the right was 2'off the ground and has a port to shoot through these targets were place so that at least one target was only visible through the port and nowhere else.
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Is it OK if we take this and modify it for our use? My MD will want to add more no-shoots and hard cover to say the least.
Brian
PS actually I want to change the two in the middle to a swinger and a drop-turner myself.
Go for it, I normally dont put hardcover or no-shoots in the drawing, due to the fact that our host club has strick height rules and I end up with white and black all over the place as it is. I like the swinger/Dt idea.
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If you already have a G34 and a G35 then build the G35 for limited and L10 then shoot all three. Production teaches you to aim and to reload, limited allows you to unleash the wagon and go. If your shooting limited and find yourself missing your reloads and shooting mike's and delta's then switch to production, if your shooting production and find yourself dragging your feet switch to limited.
As Bart said look at how many and which shooters are in a division, why shoot a division that has less then 5 shooters in it, and if the highest ranked shooter is a B or a C then its hard to be better then that, if your shooting against the masters and grandmasters its easier to become one.
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Thought I would add to Noah's post, Rocky Mountain 300 is set for May 20-22, 5 stages 60-66round minimum for each stage. Stage designs are nomally 1 hoser stage, 1 memory stage, 1 all steel stage, and 2 feild courses. This match is listed as a special match not level I or II. If anyone wants to come out and play the info is on www.ecouspsa.com . I think its also on the area 2 website.
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Caution tape was attached to the walls.
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This was yesterdays stage 1/22/11
Start position- Standing in shooting area, Gun is loaded on barrel with trigger guard centered on X
Stage Description- On start signal engage targets as they become visible from within shooting area
Off limits area was defined with caution tape, the reason for the off limits area is that we tend to have a mudd puddle as the snow melts.
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Ohhh would be so tempted to go for it with a big stick.
I was thinking it was 28 rounds...my screen had cut off the right most paper target.
Yeah, I'd likely set it up such that the left popper was behind the barrel a bit...so that a shooter would have to get a step away from the reload barrel (they'd have to step to the right of Area A to see all the targets).
Hmmm...I wonder if it were 28...just change the mix up to add a few more steel in place of some paper??
Flex, I also wound up with a no-shoot just to the left of the right most target to keep new shooters from breaking the 180, The no-shoot also made it so you had to start or move to the right side of area A. A barrel would be a better option then a no-shoot but it worked out.
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No calibration problems with steel the MD also had me put barrels to the left of all the poppers to eliminate glancing rounds, it also made it so the poppers where only available from area A.
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I set this stage up a couple months ago and thought I'd share it. Start Position- Staniding outside of shooting area A or B with toe's touching any fault line. Gun is loaded and holstered, all other loading devices must be placed on any or all barrels that are in the shooting area's. Stage Description- On start signal engage targets from area A or B.
Spanky, thanks for the help with Sketchup.
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I shot my match for about a year before upgrading to a limited. The only things I didnt like about the match was the weight and rear sights. The weight of the match isnt as noticable until you shoot a limited for a while and then try to go back. I never liked the rear sights at all but for the price of the gun I couldnt pass it up. If you are thinking about sending your match to Rich for the magwell, I would also check on how much he would charge to install a new rear sight.
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Here is how my limited and match like to run (its all in the mags). Feed lips set at .385, yes I use a par of pliers, tweek the feed lips as far back as possible but messure at the front of the feed lips. With 10mm mags you have alot of extra room to load long mine are at 1.220". Next is the most important part STRAIGHT CASES, you have three choices to get straight cases New brass which is expensive, get a roll sizer which is also expensive, or get a gizmo/redding push through die. A gizmo or a redding will run you about $100 plus you will need a lee undersize die (you can get one from henning) to go on the top, take the primer removal pin out of the undersize die and drill the treads out just make sure you dont hit the carbide insert at the bottom, use a drill bit that is just larger then your cases. If you want to run factory ammo and not reloads then use stock mags with the spacer in the front. As far as getting the base pad off just use a little elbow grease and pull, no it will not hurt any thing. If you run extended mags you will need to pull the base pads off regularly as dirt will jam these mags very quickly.
Sketchup Stage Design Tip
in Stage Design
Posted
I dont think you can, the text stays with the target(component) once attached, you can rotate the text once attached to the component or rotate the target and the text together by rotating the target. I normally keep a somewhat head on perstective so this doesn't cause much of a problem.