Txkid
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Posts posted by Txkid
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Sorry, that stinks. Are you looking to refinish in Polycoat or another finish? CZC offers refinish jobs in the factory Polycoat. They have details on the CZ Forum. Alternatively, there are a large number of quality refinishers and finishes available.
Hi Jonathan,
can you tell me were i can find the information, i looked and didnt have much luck.
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On the way to a local match I dropped my (unloaded) gun and some of the finish was scratched up and I like to know if there is someone that can refinish the damage.
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My 2C
I am new to 38 Supercomp but I leaned a trick from Brandon at Infinity and was told to use a Lee die and Punch to remove the boulder
You need the following:
RCBS Rockchucker Supreme ($79)
Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die .38 Super or .40 or .45ACp($12)
Lee bullet sizing pin .375" diameter or thereabouts ($3)
The Lee stuff is available from Lee Factory Sales website
This system will work for any straight walled case: .40, supercomp,
.45. You just have to get the appropriate Lee crimp die and pin.
Won't work with 9mm
Anyway I don’t have a single stage but use my 550 with this setup just remove the top of the die and push the round all the way through
Case gauge the rounds with EGW and all pass.
Note:
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RePete68,
I had the same problem with my Saiga 12, I was also thinking to weld the Barrel but found a kit at Carolina Shooters Supply "SAIGA 12 RELIABILITY KIT" this solved the problem.
The kit comes with a softer recoil spring that I think makes a real difference.
My guess is that sometimes the bolt short strokes and gets a new round out of the mag but not at the correct angle and the round dives in to the barrel. I might be wrong but the kit worked for me
http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-967/Saiga-12-low-brass/Detail
Good Luck
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8 in the tube one in the chamber for USPSA.
what i thought so thanks
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True, but you are going to find out that most matches, even outlaw matches, limit the round count for Limited/Tac Ops/etc. for the whole match or on many stages...
For non USPSA matches, that's usually only 'At the Buzzer'.. then you can do what you want, and load it up.. sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't
for USPSA what is the max load, 8?
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I would guess with a barrel clamp near the end of the barrel/tube, you would be hard pressed to "bend" either the tube or barrel when dumping the gun.
The chances of damaging the tip of the barrel/choke/choke tube/extended choke tube is more likely than damaging the cap on a Nordic mag tube. The barrel tip/chokes are pretty thin and open on the end compared to the mag tube cap.
So I'm thinking I would rather have the mag tube take the hit when dumping the gun.
Room for 10 in the tube is good, 12 is better in my book.
David E.
And beside all that I copy the winners.
personally i think it looks cool too!
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Hmmm……. Good points I never thought about Mud, Barrel & Tube damage good thing I asked experts.
I guess it might be good to stick to a tube that is a little longer than the barrel and if it bends just get the replacement tube form Nordic for $34.95 great insurance for the barrel.
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Thanks guys i check with my local matches and it looks like no limitation on Mag length.
so i guess i can go with the +7 and be done with it and when needed just add a plug.
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I think someone already answered this question but I wasn’t able to find a good answer.
I am building a Benelli M2 and next thing I need to get is the extension tube and cant come up what to get, so what is the best round count to add to the guns and Advantages vs. Disadvantages if any
Please help me I’m a newbie and thanks in advance
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Yesterday I had to go to my Class 3 FFL / Gun smith to file paperwork for my new M11 and found him working on a customer’s 223 AK redoing some barrel work. At first I didn’t understand why he was so bitchy doing the work it turns out the customers AK was a Red Jacket build, the barrel work was so bad it was returned to Red Jacket 4 times then ended up to his place. He told me he worked on the barrel but it was beyond repair so he had to install a new barrel. I was shown the removed barrel and was surprised it looked like it came out of a gun build by an amateur without the proper tools (Dremel). After finding this article well I feel bad the guys that got their AR’s from Academy.
You can see the notches were too small a grinder was used for fitting, the diameter of the barrel was too the barrel was welded and grinded down to fit.
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Thanks Guys for the inputs
i just Ordered a M2 from Glen's $1085
ETA is around Christmas cant wait now
Guess this will be my Christmas present for me.
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Alaska & Gug,
Thank you for your replies and looking from the poll it looks like to get a M2 Field in 24” and get it right the first time.
I was thinking if I got a 930 for $460 and later send it out to Benny to have it mod for $950 that is really more that what I want to spend
I am aware with the M2 I need to get some work done on the gun but I guess I will do what by myself whatever I can, that is the fun part of having a gun too. What I cant I well send it out.
Thanks!
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Little bit out of my budget and the R&R Saiga 2500+ wont help
but I think I will be shooting the Tactical or the Open.
anyway thanks for the suggestion
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I am looking to get in to the tactical Shotgun matches & 3 Gun, they have in my area and I am on a budget. I don’t own a shotgun now.
Anyway I love to have a M2 or the SLP but more than I want to pay
So I was looking at a Saiga 12, Mossberg 930 & CZ 712
My objective is to get a One Shotgun and be done with it so I am not looking for a starter gun,
Something as I advance (if I do, Hope so!) I have no need to switch to a different gun.
Just do some mods to the gun as needed.
Any input will help
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You might want to look in to a LMT
I picked up a LMT CQB MRP Defender Piston 16 5.56 about a 1.5 year ago from Clyde Armory for $1795 and love the fact that it is easy to clean, you can clean the piston without removing the hand guard like a LWRC and the upper and hand guard is one piece so you can mount your scope without thinking alignment. Well that also makes the gun heavier than most 3 gun AR’s since you are not using a carbon hand guard and limits the barrel to LMT’s.
I don’t trim the case of my reloads and they feed very well with my LMT without any jams so far.
The gun shoots better than me so no complains
Good luck
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After upgrading from a 550 to 650 I was seeking for a Bullet feeder and started looking at the Hornady. I ordered my Lock-N-Load Bullet Feeder, 2 months ago from Cabela’s. I finally got all the components in, 1st the feeder, a few weeks later the dies.
Anyway, I finally installed it today and notice that the height is really not maid for a 650 so I had to make a bracket out of wood that was laying around and got her working, I didn’t want to lose space to the left since the 550 is setup. So I put the feeder on a sort of an angle.
Not nice as Foxbat but it works, I am also thinking about adding a micro switch for the motor.
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Well I am not the most experience in reloading but I have been reloading for some time, the other day I finally got a bottle of Winchester Autocomp and reloaded 80 rounds yesterday.
Anyway, this is the first time in my reloading years that I notice that the powder grains don’t look consistent, looks like it is a mix or hybrid of 2 different powders.
I know it is not a big issue but was just curios if any of you notice this or not.
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I saw this mod about a year ago, and finally got around to trying it. Without having yet loaded any ammo with it, the bearing really seems to have smoothed out the shell plate action. There's also much less wobble in the plate, so I'm hoping to see a reduction in OAL variation.
I picked up the bearing and washers at a local bearing store. Timken part numbers:
bearing = NTA-815
washer = TRA-815
I also spent some time tweaking and fitting the ejector wire, working slowly so as not to snap it. Just in case, there is a spare in the Dillon 650 spare parts kit (everyone should have one of these kits on hand). Here's how it came out:
Tested it with .40 and .223 shell plates and both seem to eject perfectly.
-Steve
Windscreen,
Today I just did the same mod to the Ejector and it fixed the lock up problem I had with 38 SC, I was thinking to add a picture to this post and saw you beat me.
Thanks for the photo.
Thomas
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I have used the top two washers without the bottom one in the roller set to alleviate some of the vertical height which was causing ejector spring issues. Works just as smooth as with all 3 washers without the height
Bets
Thanks Bets i will give that a try this weekend
TXKid
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Mine looks just like the pictures here, but I've never had a problem with the cartriges ejecting. However I only do 9mm and .40's.
Amn2_man, thank you for the reply. At this time I am only reloading 38 SC with my 650 and was thinking it might be just a 38 SC thing with this mod.
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I kinda borrowed a fix, but it appears to work just great... For those that might not know... When loading .40 or 9mm Major on a 650, the case get's kinda full. As a result, when the press indexes to the next station, there is a spring and ball detent that holds the shellplate into the next position and it seems most of the time, that ball "snaps" the plate into position enough that it causes powder to go flying. There have been various fixes - cut 1/2 - 1 turns off the spring under the ball detent, tighten or loosen the shellplate bolt, etc. None of them seem to *really* work.
What I found was a needle thrust bearing and a set of washers that are a perfect fit and appear to have solved the problem. This bearing allows you to *almost* tighten the shellplate bolt all the way and still allow the shellplate to turn freely. As a result, it takes all the play out of the shellplate and instead of the ball snapping the plate to the next index, it actually "glides" to that index.
The parts are local if in Atlanta, or if not, they are easily available via the web. If you order one day, they usually arrive the next.
So here's the fix.
Go to www.mcmaster.com (McMaster Carr - an awesome, just about has everything, parts supplier, that doesn't have a minimum order!), and get these parts.
5909K31 1 Each Steel Needle-roller Thrust Bearing Cage Assembly For 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 15/16" Od
5909K44 2 Each .032" Thick Washer For 1/2" Shaft Diameter Steel Needle-roller Thrust Bearing
That's PARTNUMBER, QTY, DESC
Mind you this is an open bearing so you'll need to make sure and keep it clean and lubed, but it should work.
Now, where did I borrow this... well Uniquetek makes a roller bearing mod for the 550 and while it requires a new "star" for it to work with this bearing, I figured, hey, there's no star used with the 650, so this should work and work it appears it does nicely.
I've made no other mods and will keep you posted as to my results... but *I'm tired of getting powder* all over occasionally.
Adjustment seems to be tighten the bolt to the stop finger tight, and then just a very small *smidge* back, then lock the allen screw.
YMMV,
Alan
IMAGES ADDED Below
I have been reading this post and picked up a set of bearing for my on order 650 from a local bearing store.
On Saturday I received my 650 from Brian and in no time did the update. Thanks Brian for the free shipping!!!
Anyway, after installing the Bearing I notice that the Ejector Wire will sit higher due to the bearing thickness and at ejection it will tilt and lockup the brass rather than ejecting
I was wondering if any one did a fix for this issue like reshaping the Ejector or polish the shell plate were it holds the brass etc.
I was thinking reshaping the ejector was the way to go but I wanted to ask before I did anything I will regret.
Any suggestions?
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My wife is Practical, big on baking and Organic stuff so I am getting her a Grain Mill Komo Duett 100 to be exact.
I told one of my coworkers and she begged her husband to get one too.
Some women are like that, and some like the romantic stuff.
Anyway, my suggestion will be if you know your wife well it is not hard to get the right gift.
I know my wife liked her present since I gave it to her yesterday.
Since we are leaving home and coming back after Christmas and the mill weighs over 50 lbs.
Good Luck
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Thank you for the replies, I just called CZ Custom on my lunch break and ordered a Shadow.
Cant wait to get it!!!
Thomas
CZ Shadow Custom Polycoat
in CZ
Posted
Jonathan & burningsquirrels,
thanks for the advice and information and suggestions.
Think I will do both for now I will use the CZ as is and later
when I get to the point i will refinish the slide.
Thanks y'all