Z32MadMan
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Posts posted by Z32MadMan
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I've always loved the whole baby stroller concept at carbine/3-gun matches ha
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Hi Gang,
I'm Chris, the guy making pouches over at the SigForum. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me an email; my address was posted above. I can make pouches for Beretta, Sig, 1911, M&P, and AR15's. I also can make pouches for whatever magazines you have. So if you need something that was other than what I posted, you can send me a magazines which I will return to you with your order.
Thanks!
Chris
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Thanks for all the info guys. I will go ahead and tighten the crimp down a bit. Although I chambered a few rounds 10 or so times each and had no problems with setback.
Went to the range to chrono today.
4.5 gr of Solo 1000 got me an average of 1018 fps in my P226 4.25" barrel. I'm hoping that a 4.5" Glock 17 w/ poly rifling will bump the PF up a bit more.
4.5 = 127.25 PF
4.4 = 126.75 PF
4.3 = 125 PF
4.2 = 123 PF
Also it was 86 degrees outside, and from what I have heard Solo 1000 is reverse temp sensitive. So I should be safe for the rest of the year.
I think the primers were starting to get a bit flatter on the 4.5 load, but they definitely weren't smashed flat like some of the primers I see on brass that I pick up.
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I am trying to work up a new load for my Glock 17. I've got a few loads ready to test for the chrono this weekend.
Zero 125 JHP
Crimp: .377-.378
Solo 1000: 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5
OAL; 1.125"
Does everything look/sound about right?
What OAL do Glocks like to run JHPs accurately and reliably at? It seems like others are running them shorter, around 1.1". But that seemed a bit short for me and I figured some wiggle room on case capacity would be a good idea. It especially seemed short since I have been shooting a Solo/147gr BBI load in my Sig at 1.145".....
How much of a velocity difference would the going from 1.125" to 1.1" with the same charge?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
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Quick question for you folks. I have a bunch of Solo 1000. Can I make a decent minor load with Solo and 125gr Zero JHP?
How much Solo would get me around 130PF?
Any recipes?
Thanks!
I shot a bunch of .38super Zeros behind 4.2 grs or my old batch of solo loaded to 1.130. 130PF. When I switched to 124gr MG bullets and the old batch of solo I kept it at 4.2 grs for the same PF. My new batch of Solo needs 4.5 grs to get the same PF. New lot is #1930 on the white sticker. Old was 1420 or some such number. All of my loads were with RN so OAL will need to change a little perhaps. YMMV. CHRONO IT.
9mm I should have specified. Not sure if that makes a difference. I just wanted to make sure that Solo 1000 could push a jacketed 125gr to 130PF without any pressure issues.
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Quick question for you folks. I have a bunch of Solo 1000. Can I make a decent minor load with Solo and 125gr Zero JHP?
How much Solo would get me around 130PF?
Any recipes?
Thanks!
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I chose a max and min oal and then I made a load for every 0.01" in between those two. I shot a 7 shot group of each load and chose the most accuarte.
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I'm looking to start reloading for a .223 bolt. I have a 550b set up for 9mm right now and I'm wondering what I'm going to need. I'm considering buying fully processed and primed .223 brass from scharch.com. That way I don't have to worry about all of the case prep.
So if I use this brass, all I will need is to dump a powder charge and seat, correct? Will I just need a powder and seating die with a caliber conversion kit?
Any tips for making accurate .223 ammo on a progressive?
Thanks!
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Whats wrong with smoke ??
Not a thing. But compared to jacketed loads...... Especially shooting indoors in the winter.
BBI 147gr
3.4gr Solo 1000
OAL: 1.15"
854fps
125.5 pf
4.25" p226
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One thing your program has instantly helped me with is split times. With my standard SA/DA I would come up against the trigger to simulate the shot and keep doing that. But doing what you have outlined " pull though the DA and then come forward a bit then pull through again) has really helped me take advantage of the short reset on my P226. Normally at a match I start the first target with rather slow follow ups, then increase later in the array. Last weekend fast splits were appearing right out of the gate.
I also love the "freestyle - reload - strong - reload - weak" exercise.
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How much solo are you running with your 130gr load Ben?
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Someone had a chrono out after a local match and I jumped on the chance to finally test my 147gr Solo load.
Here is what I came up with
Load:
BBI 147gr moly
Mixed brass
Magtech SPP
Solo 1000 3.4gr
OAL 1.145"
Pistol:
Sig P226 4.25"
9 rounds: 857, 855, 848, 851, 862, 849, 863, 847, 855
Average 854fps
Power factor: 125.5
Looks like I need to bump it up a tenth, but overall I'm very excited to see how consistent these rounds are.
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On me SDB's proprietary dies, there is a little step above the carbide inserts, where the open area inside the die widens. Even with a slight coat of lube on brilliantly shined brass, if enough cases are sized/bullets seated and crimped, there is a slow accumulation of black gunk right on top of the insert. It builds up to the point where it will streak the case. It needs to be scraped out once in a while.
I don't know the internal geometry of other dies, but there might be a similar process going on. Bottom line - clean your dies regularly.
That is exactly what is happening.
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I'm using a 550b and I just starting using a Lee U resizing die. The brass is going in clean, lubed with One shot, and coming out with a black greasy film. I'll try taking the die apart and giving it a really good scrub.
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Is there any issue with cleaning loaded moly ammo with rubbing alcohol? My resizing die is covering the loaded brass with a film of black greasy gunky. It comes off super easily with rubbing alcohol but I'm worried about the moly coating on the lead. Anyone have some experience here?
Thanks!
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I have loaded a few thousand rounds on my 550b, and I have always had a problem with getting the primers to seat flush. Well skimming the forum last night, I found a post from the Dillon rep on here saying how to do it.
There is no purpose built 'adjustment' but you can use the shell plate bolt to adjust primer depth. If you tighten up the bolt a bit more, it will bring the shellplate lower which will seat your primers a bit lower. And if you give the bolt a really good greasing, then the star will still index nice and smoothly.
This may be obvious for some people, but I have found a ton of threads on here about the issue and I have never found the answer. So maybe this will help out a few folks.
Cheers!
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Quick question. I have a lead on some Wolf magnum SPPs.
Right now I'm running:
BBI 147gr
Magtech standard SPPs
Solo 1000 3.4gr
OAL 1.14-1.15
Mixed brass
No pressure signs
If I start running Wolf magnum SPP will I need to alter the load at all? And does anyone have any idea of how hard/soft these primers are?
Thanks!
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Guys correct me if I am missing something but I don't use case gauges. The cartridge has to work in my gun so always check match ammo in the gun I plan to use. What will fit my 1911's won't fit my 625's
Is there any advantage to using a seperate gauge ?
Boats
Well if you use a gauge you don't have to take disassemble your 1911 everytime you reload some ammo. And as long as the case gauge has tighter tolerances than your barrel, anything that passes the gauge will pass your gun.
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I rechecked the BBI site and your right! It's the crimp die not the decapping. So a EGW U die should fix my issue then, hopefully. These rounds do gauge backwards a good bit, so I don't thing it's the base being out of round.
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Will a standard lee decaping/resizing die resize all the way down the case? My dillon die doesn't seem to do so, and many of my rounds won't guage well. I think it is because the bottom of the case isn't getting resized. I'm shooting BBI moly bullet and they say on their website not to use a U-die because it will put enough force on the moly bullet to undersize the bullet itself. So I'm wondering if the standard size die will help. And yes my dillon die is all the way down to the shellplate.
Thanks!
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Lower the handle, and look on the left side of the shaft. There will be an allen set screw, this keeps the shellplate bolt locked in place.
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Nope if was 15. "Atleast 15 pieces of flair."
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What recoil and hammer springs are you all using in your competition 226's?
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I'm building a reloading bench and want to reinforce the underside where the strong mount for my 550 is going to go. Can anyone tell me how wide apart the mounting bolts are when looking at the front of the press? Also what type of hardware comes with the 550/strong mount for mounting? Most importantly: how long are the bolts?
Thanks!
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