wisconsin
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Posts posted by wisconsin
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Does anyone here use these for Bullseye?
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You need to start isolating things one at a time. Start with the reloads. You said they went through a case guage so pull the barrel out of the gun and try again. OAL of 1.250 should be fine but your crimp is a little tighter than it needs to be; bullet diameter + twice case thickness minus .002 should have you around .470. Refine this by pressing the bullet against your work bench with some pressure and the bullet should not move.
You said the first round chambers but the second doesn't. Take the slide and barrel off the gun, put just the slide back on the gun and make sure it moves freely. So you have cartridges that fit in the barrel, a slide that moves freely, what is needed to close the slide and put the next round into the chamber? The recoil spring!!!!! Put in a 14-15# spring to see if you can get the gun working.
Today I did. Used both the barrel and the case check. 99% of all reloads went up to the edge of the barrel hood and flat to the top of the case check gauge.
I find that on this RRA the tol. are tighter and .468 works better. Now that with my buddies rounds. .470 on my reloads might be part of the problem. No round moved on either .468 or .470 with your test.
In regards to the recoil spring. I thought the same thing. If the round goes into battery by me releasing the slide. And has no failure to eject. But the next round fails to feed all the way in (1/8-3/16"). Maybe he changed the factory supplied #11 spring with say a #8 spring to get it to work with his bullseye reloads. I wish there was a way to test a spring to see exactly what # it was. But I do have some Wilson springs I can test it with. I will give that a shot and see what happens. Jeff
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Are you using the right side of the seating die plug?
The Redding comp die has no die plug. My dillion die does. But I'm not using it for these loads
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I changed to a Redding, competition, seating die for all my pistol calibers, and no longer have those issues.
I'm using a Dillon 550B.
I do use the Redding also. I was just wondering if the die hole is lined up right with the shell plate
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I'm using a .452,200 gr lazer cast LSWC,4.0,4.6, 5.2 gr.W231,1.250 col, .468/.467 taper crimp,all rounds passed the case gage test, #11 factory spring. When I seat my bullets there is a slight case buldge around the bullet. This is on all my reloads. And I believed this to be the result of the .452 bullet. It has never been a problem for my 1911's until today. I just bought a used RRA wadgun, cleaned it, oiled it etc. When putting the first round into battery it went in no problems.Firing the gun the second round didn't go all the way in.This continued to happen until a buddy of mine handed me some nickle plated cases with the same round in it/no case buldge. No problems. My question is? The press I use is a Dillion 650. Could my toolhead be off enough that my rounds aren't getting seated right? Jeff
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If you have two powder measures swap the one you are using on the .45 for the one you use on the other calibers.
Geeeeeeeeeeez
. I never thought to do that. Yes I have seperate setups for the 38/357 & 9mm. Will swap one of the powder systems with the 45 acp bars and see what happens. Sometimes I feel so stupid. Will see if the problem goes away. Thanks. Jeff -
Case lube is not the issue as the case has already come off the flare. Its when the failsafe rod pulls the bell crank plates. The powder bar seem to be hanging up some how. The failsafe rod is doing what its suppose to do. Its the powder bar that seems to want to pop forward every so often. And I do mean POP forward.All of the above and lubricate the cases. Preferably with either Dillon or Hornady case lube.PLUS, try re-installing the old powder bar return spring onto your bar. This MAY allow the bar to come to a stop, the case then slides off the funnel and then at the bottom of the stroke the failsafe trips the bell cranks plates.
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Are you sure that the powder funnel is not sticking in the case thats being
filled with powder. Mine sticks in .45 only, probably due to the extra surface
area ?? If thats the case you have to polish the outside of the funnel ??
I only bring this up because it's caliber specific !!
Yes I'm sure
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Also be sure the failsafe rod is installed correctly. The upper end of the rod goes into the oval hole in the rear plate, and comes out the round hole in the front plate. If the failsafe rod is installed backwards you will experience binding sometimes, but not always.
Thanks but all is installed proprely according to the directions. Believe me I've spent countless days watching it cycle and making absolutly sure everything is running right according to the 650 manual. I even took measurements off of my 9mm and 38/357 conversions to see that they all match my 45acp setup with regards to the manuals instructions. This is driving me to drink. But I still love my press. Jeff
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I'll try to make this short. I've had a problem since day 1 with my 45acp setup that came with the press. Dillion has been called 3 times over the 2 yrs I've owned it on this. On the forward stroke at the point where the only thing that needs to be done is the failsafe rod pulling the powder bar back to the next powder drop position. Every 10th or so round the powder bar pops forward so hard that primer are turning side way and upside down also powder is jumping out of the powder check station. Like I said it is the only funtion left to be done with the handle 3/4's of the way forward. Dillion thought the first time it was cause by me using new and mixed brass with regards to the flaring bell but the case has already come off of the flare. Next it was the failsafe spring should be tightened half its width. Next they sent me out a new powder bar assembly because it was thought the thickness of the bars where to much. I come to find out today they are with in the thickness they should be. I have cleaned the bar and track it takes and emery cloth the edges and flat spots. I also tried silicone grease on the leading edges of the bar which did work for a 150 rds then the problem came back. I'm in no way mad at Dillion they have tried to solves this problem for me. But that is kind of hard for them to see what I see. Has anyone else had this problem if so I could use the help. This last reloading session was less than enjoyable. Jeff
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Can I PM you? JeffWhat kind of parts are you looking for? -
Is there a sight that deals with hard to find firearm parts. S@W has few parts for this pistol. I'm looking to stock up on needed spare parts just in case. Jeff
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AHHHHHHHHHHH! I see that would make sense. This pistol is very accurate for it size. But the one thing I didn't do was other than the 148 HBWC is try 140fp or 158swc weight bullet. I try not to post "please help" unless I've tried just about everything I can to get results. This grasshopper thanks all of you for your help. Jeff
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I will try and keep this short. I've messing around with this for almost a year. I'm reloading for this pistol and using 125 gr. fp,hp with W231. 3.8-4.4 gr the oal come off of the winchester powder sight so I'm sorry for not remembering it off the top of my head. If I use 148 gr hb wad cutters lead or berry/3.8 bullseye flush to the case the shots will group dead on at 7-10 yds. If I use the 125gr. bullets they will all group 6-8" low holding dead on off of sand bags. No matter what I shoot in the w231 3.8- 4.4 gr range it won't matter hp or fp they all group low. Nice tight groups but low. What in gods name am I doing wrong. Jeff
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Is anyone here reloading for thier long slide (6"). I was experiencing some problems with my reloads this past weekend. I used the same load data for the 5". W231 5.6-6.3, Bullseye 5.2-5.8 under a 200 gr. Rainer CRN, oal 1.200, case length. .888,mixed brass, WLP primers. Also I used W231 5.8gr and Bullseye 5.2 gr. with a oal of 1.240 same case and primer. There was a noticable difference in recoil/noise when used with my machine pistol rest. Enough that WTF came out of my mouth and I stopped. Brass was fine except for noticable nickel coloring of the brass on one side. I was not sure if that was because of brass lube residue. Oh! by the way the 5" with the same reload data ran just fine.
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Thanks I'll give it a look.Try this link:http://www.ericwesselman.com/DillonPowderMeasure/
You have to order the coil springs from Dillon. They wrap around the bottom of the powder hopper (the zinc, pot metal casting funnel shapped part) and then the metal "cleat" (a "garter" really) that sticks up out of the powder bar.
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No. Tell me more. I did upgrade my powder bar. Bought a mic for the powder measure adjustment through Lee Tec@ wisconsin... did you do the Dillon powder measure retrograde? That helped with the general clunkiness of my press especially after I added the EGW/Lee U die. -
+1 for Springfield products. I own a 5" loaded blk stain. and a 6" long slide. Love em and thier customer service.
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Duane T. Thanks for the HP info. At least something positive will come out of this.
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My press is at the correct height for my arm. I run mostly 45acp through it. This 9mm once fired brass I bought was way worse than the new starline 45 acp brass I used when I started reloading. Thank God I was only resizing the brass and not reloading it. At times it was like popping a cork out of a bottle. When any of the brass came out of the die that way I sent it through again and of course it came out alot easier. I'm hoping as with the 45 starline brass once I fire the 9mm through my BHP it will resize alot easier next time.My setup is somehow similar. I use an RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press with an EGW U-die and run all my brass and reload them on a progressive as normal. I just ran about 420 mixed 9mm last Friday...easy; and without lube. How high do you have your press on the table? I found out before that if I have my press installed too high my arms remains bent throughout the stroke and tends to hurt after. I now have my press just below chest level so that my arms is fully stretched on the down stroke; seems to help. -
I will never doubt the info you guy/gals give me anymore. I started reloading 9mm mixed range brass on my 650. I was told to spray all of my brass with either one shot or RCBS case lube,then run it through my Dillion sizing die,then through my Lee(EGW) sizing die. Because of the issue with brass fired through Glocks and maybe others. Well Mr. Dumbsh*t here though he knew better. I didn't use one shot or rcbs. And I didn't run the brass through my Dillion die first. I just ran 500rds through my Lee undersize die. My Freaking arm is killing me today. Let me tell you I knew when I was sizing brass fired from a Glock. Well today I went out and got some one shot case lube and called Dillion up and ordered a resizing die with a toolhead so I can run the brass it first through it without having to mess around with my setup for 9mm. I guess you never stop learning
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Sorry to have hijack this thread. I should of done my homework. I found my answer on a past threadSince I have not used case lube in the past with my 650. My reloading arm had a talk with me the last time we reloaded and the arm won. My only question is after the reload is completed do you have to wipe off the brass before firing the round? -
Since I have not used case lube in the past with my 650. My reloading arm had a talk with me the last time we reloaded and the arm won. My only question is after the reload is completed do you have to wipe off the brass before firing the round?
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Glad to hear it. She is pleasure to talk and laugh with. Very helpful. Best of luck with your reloads.............................
Wisconsin >>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
That was the best tip I have had in a long time. I dialed that number....and well I guess you would know,.... She was Very happy to assist. Super Customer Service.
Thanks 4 the Great advise, got all the info I needed!
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. I never thought to do that. Yes I have seperate setups for the 38/357 & 9mm. Will swap one of the powder systems with the 45 acp bars and see what happens. Sometimes I feel so stupid. Will see if the problem goes away. Thanks. Jeff
Vibrate clean finished LSWC rounds
in 44/45 Caliber
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I've read past posts on cleaning finished round in our case cleaners but all the responses seem to be geared for jacketed ammo. Since lead bullets use wax type lube, even keeping your die clean of excess lube some still gets onto the case. In my case I'm using a RRA wadgun. Any excess bullet lube on the finished case will FF sometimes because of the tighter tol. in the gun. Soooo does anyone here run there finished lead rounds through their case vibrators? I tierd of cleaning the finished rounds with a 3M pad. Jeff