pinger
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Posts posted by pinger
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I've always noticed that cast bullets seem to feel a little softer at the same power factor as jacketed. I can't really tell much difference between moly bullets and cast.
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I ended up using
130 MG .356 over 4.0 VVN320 Fed 100 primers
basically a 9MM load
accurate enough for local ICORe out of a 627 4"
Yeah, i know quite a few guys around here that shoot steel using 9mm load data for 38 Short Colt loads. They seem to have decent luck.
I'm a poor kentucky boy. I can't afford them fancy cases those gamers like to use.
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Well to give you an idea, Alliant used to publish a load very close to major with 147's.
5.7grs of Power Pistol with a 147gr Hdy XTP at 1.140 OAL out of a 4" test barrel--1095fps and 34,000 psi. I didn't use that bullet, but that's where i started; Hence, the starting point i suggest. Where I stopped was a tad over 6 grains, and that was right at major out of a 5" Trubor barrel.
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For the 147's I actually used Alliant Power Pistol. I was able to get a load to about 1130 fps without any signs of high pressure.
I had good results with Longshot running right at about 165.1 PF with 124gr Precision Delta bullets, and it seemed to be a good powder while it lasted.
Since then, i have been using Power Pistol exclusively because of availability. After using all of the 147's, I have only been using 124gr and 125gr bullets. Now that i don't have any left, I don't really have a reason to use 147gr bullets in 9mm these days.
Power Pistol is fairly clean, and very consistent. It makes 175 pf without a problem, and no signs of high pressure at all. THe only problem is that it is a LOUD powder, but that's why they make earplugs.
Like everyone else, I recommend 125's with Longshot. And, honestly, 9mm Major is beyond all published 9x19 data i have found. So, the best thing to do is start safe, and work your way up.
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I always wondered why i end up with extra parts when i work on these newfangled revolvers...lol
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Is your hammer cut down to where it no longer holds the lock pieces in place?
it is cut down, but there is at least .100". Overlap when the hammer is forward...guess that's not enough.
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230gr Cast bullet over 3.8gr of Clays.... They make about 760fps out of my gun.
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I have a 625-8 with the internal lock. Today, during a local match, the internal lock engaged and brought my run to a screeching halt.
After disassembling the gun in the nearby safe area and yanking out the lock, I was able to finish the day without a problem. Wow, i usually just pull them out when i do the action--i don't remember why i left this one in. About 12,000 rounds, and over a year later, i learned why i should have removed it.
I know everyone i hear says to remove those things, and I usually do. I guess I just thought if it aint broke, don't fix it. Anyway, now it's fixed.
I think it's funny that S&W says that those locks have never caused a problem... I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience.
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I use the lyman 195gr round nose. With WW alloy, i get about 198grs in the end. And, with 3.3grs of good old bullseye in mixed 38 cases, i was getting about 704fps in my S&W 642.
Don't know if that helps at all, but i used to use those bullets for bowling pin loads, too. Alliant used to publish data for those heavy bullets, and i think i might have one of those books around here somewhere. It seems like not many people using alliant these days...
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I was just wondering where might be the best place to have Club/Match T-Shirts made?
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It was great to meet everyone at the match. Had an awesome time, learned a lot, and went home with a tired trigger finger! I can't wait until next time, and I hope to see everyone again soon!
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If i were in the business of selling barrels, i would want you to believe that anything that might extend the life of that barrel is bad to use!. Shooting Moly coated bullets, cleaning too frequently, etc has been a hot topic for rifle shooters for a long time.
To each his own. Whatever you like to shoot, shoot it as long as you get good results. Nothing lasts forever no matter what you try to do.
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Power Pistol is a decent powder, and it WILL make major. lol
About everyone that i know that shoots .40 thinks Viht 310 is the holy grail.
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OneShot Lube says that it will not foul primers and powder. Is that the case for the dillon spray lube as well?
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Get you a gas mask and put a light saber on your cr speed belt and pretend you are shooting the stormtroopers
sean
See what did i tell ya...lol!
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I have been shooting only with plated bullets (or CMJ), using VVN320 or 340 and using lead free primers for my indoor loads. As long as I am alone in the range it is almost smoke free while I am there and I do not get that taste in my mouth like I did.
Just FYI...
... meant to put this in general reloading section, but clicked too quickly
YOUR primers and bullets are not the only thing you will get lead from at an indoor range. A respirator rated for lead is well worth the investment if you shoot indoors a lot. It gets me some funny looks, but I don't like the taste of lead with MY pizza.
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I've moly coated a ton of jacketed rifle bullets with great success. Pistol bullets, not so many. I experimented with the coating like precision/bear creek bullets. The trick is that the fine moly powder is suspended in a carrier solution, then applied to the bullet to dry. Finding the right carrier that will dry in the right amount of time, and bond the moly to the bullet is where i gave up. I've tried several things, but after the mess and aggravation, i just lube/size my cast bullets as normal.
I would be interested to see how it is really done though....
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Just use a little mercury to dissolve the lead out of the comp...
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I have a trubor 9 "major" and it will run on factory ammo with a lighter recoil spring. I have shot some factory ammo that cycled it with the stock recoil spring--I don't remember what brand it was. This gun is made to run with 9mm major loads, so if you want to shoot 9mm minor loads, it might take a little work to make it reliable.
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I was having this problem when i got my Trubor 9mm. Spent cases were getting stuck just like in the picture. I tried other guys' mags, ammo, recoil springs, etc. Everything was stock STI parts, and all i did to correct it was an Ed Brown 9mm Extractor, and an EGW ejector. I put a very small bevel off the right corner of the ejector. This thing has been running great since last summer. That tells me it was surely an extractor/ejector issue.
This may or may not be the issue for you, but I hope it helps.
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I told y'all I'd be first in line for the Glock revolver!
Seriously, I'll take a hard look at this when it comes out.
Polymer Fire Control housing...wow...on a revolver...neato
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With any luck, Summer Blast and Silver Creek....hopefully more, but i'm not sure yet.
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What plan!??
:surprise: Simple is always better for me. And, after i get something together, i try to go through the stage in my head 3 times. That helps me a BUNCH. Now, do i always get to? NO. lol
Whenever i start a stage with the mindset of just winging it, major suck.
Now, i'm still a newbie so i don't feel qualified to give any advise, but that's something that helps me.
Tom
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I've cast the Lyman 195gr round nose for years. 8.0gr of Blue Dot gets about 1200ft/sec out of my 6" 686.
It's a real bowling pin killer...but i've never shot it much farther than 25 yards. Seems to be very accurate/stable out to 25yds.Typically..the heavier the bullet, the faster the twist needed to stabilize the bullet.
Checkering topstrap and trigger guard of a revolver
in IDPA Rules
Posted
I think they said that anyone BUT Matt Griffin can have checkering on the topstrap and trigger guard....