steveknapp
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Posts posted by steveknapp
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I have noticed that on the bullets I've recycled, that there appears to be a good amount of crimp, especially in the plated bullets
This may be too much crimp. My understanding is 9mm gets crimped enough to be straight, take the "bell" out from the powder die. Nothing should cut into the bullet itself.
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I think that some people lose out on the enjoyment because they are so consumed with being on top that they can't be happy unless they are winning. I get a little bummed out when I'm not shooting well
The nice thing about the times and classification system is you can benchmark yourself against yourself.
I get frustrated when I don't shoot well, compared to my standard. And excited when I see myself improve.
Maybe there are some clubs where I'd not be welcome if I'm not "serious enough" about pushing the limits of the sport, but I've not found that yet.
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I'm in the same boat, I've got a 22/45Mk II that I was going to setup for steel. Just seems like it would be a blast to shoot.
But I'm new to red-dot sights. I've seen some that are small enough to fit into the rear-sights dovetail. Others need a rail.
Any advice is welcome. I'm searching this forum as well as others as well.
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that is a bad ass spread sheet. Im sorry, Im somewhat new to this, did you make that spreadsheet, or is that a program or? I need to do that.
Thanks Bob! I'd be happy to email you a copy. I just made it in excel.
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PP:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&id=16591
Unique:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&id=16592
And for 5gn of AmSel behind 124gn CMJ (two strings):
Calculated:
Lo 1083 1102
HI 1131 1160
Av 1115.4 1125.1
ES 48 58
Sd 15.10849651 18.11353085
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FWIW, I've got a 550B without all the bells and whistles. It does a fine job.
If you're doing this to save money, try the press without the "nice to haves" first. See how it goes.
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I use 5gn of American Select behind 124gn CMJ Montana Gold bullets. Seems on par with clays, and it's what I use in shotshells, so that's handy too.
Power Pistol @ 6.4gn wasn't "soft" but functioned well.
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I greased my 550B after about 1000 rounds loaded and it made a huge difference. YMMV.
Never seen Mobil1 straight 30W. The higher the number, the thicker it is, and I'd just look at the lower number. I'd probably opt for the 15W50 for general oiling, it's thicker and may stay in place better.
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Any feedback on that from U-die owner-operators?
It does slow me down. For me, I need to be sure the brass is 100% of the way into the shellplate before pulling the lever. I've pondered if adjusting that spring that holds the brass in place as you rotate the shell plate (550 here) to apply some inward pressure in station 1 is a possible solve. Or maybe a different design of that?
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How is the quality on the newer mags? I have about 10 of the older blued mags that work great but if I don't wipe them down after every match a might get spots of rust. It looks like the new ones are coated with something different. Was that for better corrosion resistance? Is the steel underneath the same quality as the older mags?
There was a change in the coating. Mine have been used/abused for the year so far and show no signs of rust, yet. But the new coating is supposed to be more durable. I think the change happened ~5mo ago?
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I'm using winchester small pistol. The look is the same as the factory ammo except for the much lighter loads.
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Most factory brass, and my reloads, always look like that. Glocks leave a square dimple, my M&P a teardrop shape.
I never viewed it as something to be worried about. Should I?
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The "big deal" happens if/when you get distracted and fail to rotate it. Double charge a case...and ka-boom.
You would also remove a live primer in stage 1, another KB possibility.
I know it seems like a safety issue, but I've not found it to be so bad. If I know I need to pause, I just quit putting cases in and run the machine dry, then walk away. If something can't wait, I always just check the first three stages when I come back. Is there a new primer in #1, Powder in #2, and a seated bullet in #3? It's a quick look to verify the state of everything, and the seated bullet is a huge give-away.
It is something you need to be aware of. But I don't know if I would trust an auto-index more. I'd still look the thing over before resuming reloading. I'm paranoid like that.
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Here's my OAL data in summary form, I shot 20 of each. They were from different "batches" and I always test/tweak the powder measure before each session. So there could be some *slight* variations in the powder...
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"Does the powder measure need to be attached for the expander on the funnel to work?" It does. The powder measure restricts the upward motion of the funnel which is what expands/bells the case. Without the powder measure the funnel just moves up freely.
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I can see why if you're loading hot loads or fast powders why longer OAL would be good to drop pressure. But my gun feeds long and short rounds equally well. Any reason other than lower pressure I'd want the longer OAL?
I've been loading to ~1.130 (reloading data was around 1.1-1.2). I tried some at 1.15 and 1.11, but not chronoed them yet.
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Is this it?
I thought I saw it either in Front Sight or .. I can't remember.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=11082005
Article said it worked, but the reviewer was using a Lee press, not sure if that matters. I think it was Front Sight.
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I use one of these for my 550:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog
The grease is designed for air ratchets, and works great in many firearms related applications.
Just an FYI, I had one of these in my garage, it works well to get the grease points as well. The needle fits the holes well, and it can generate enough pressure to get the grease in the fittings. The grease has worked well for me in other applications but don't have any long term data from the press yet. It's a nice size, ~$20 with the gun, and pretty easy to find at bike shops.
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Sounds like your friend set you up with a great deal!
One thing I'd mention to anyone on a budget, myself included. You need money for primers, powder, and bullets. And to really get the cost down, you need to buy in bulk. I spent ~$600 on my 550B, then another $300 easy on primers, brass, powder, and bullets. But yes, I am set for a good bit, which is nice.
A higher volume press only makes sense, for me, if the budget can support that volume of shooting. I'm happy if I get time to shoot 300 rounds in a week, which is about 2hrs (including setup, checks, and cleanup) on my 550B. I enjoy the time spent, and for me don't see the need for a faster machine.
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I started with 115's, the goal being to recreate something that was like WWB as my best local indoor range does not allow reloads. With 6.4gn of Power Pistol, I just barely make minor. Same with 4.8gn of Bullseye.
I'm going to give the 124s a try for the reasons stated above, as well as having a bit more margin on the power factor.
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http://10xshooters.com/calculators/Handgun..._Calculator.htm has helped me with similar math. FWIW.
I'm paying ~$20 a lb for powder and almost $5/100 for primers locally. So mail order was a must there.
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My understanding was that the key part of this was bullet weight and case space, OAL less the bullet length. FWIW, the MG 115gn RN's I've got are the same length as the Winchester 115gn. Which were the same length as the Hornadys I bought earlier.
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Yes but this is coming from a guy who lives in a state that does not get 5 months of snow and below freezing weather
Snowmobiles are fun too..
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I've shot both Win 115gn FMJ and MT Gold 115gn FMJ.
I should have kept better records, but I had a group using Power Pistol that did seem more accurate than most. Maybe not at 100yd, but at 50yd. I figured it was variables in my shooting more than the gun...
The Win bullets can be had at cabela's for nearly the same price as the MT Gold, FWIW.
Dillon dies in the 550?
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
I'm not a long time reloader, but I was reading this after finishing loading another batch of ammo with my 550 and dillon dies and had a few thoughts.
The Dillon dies are easier to clean. Which even for the CMJ bullets I load, is nice if not essential.
The Dillon sizing die vs the EGW "U" die. I like the Dillon better for it's tapered mouth (smoother loading) and depriming pin (spring loaded, just seems to work better, maybe I just like the "ping" it makes?).
I bought some used Dillon 40 S&W dies, an older style. Had an issue with the seating die. Dillon helped, replaced it in the end, no questions asked.
I started with the 550 and the Dillon dies. It remains pretty seamless. It did cost a few extra bucks, but the stuff just *works* and when I've had questions Brian or Dillon are there to help. I'd do it again.