RussB
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Posts posted by RussB
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In that price range, it's hard to beat the Springfield Armory Range Officer. They also have stellar customer service if you ever need it
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Some like the serrations.
I prefer smooth, and nicely contoured with my trusty Dremel.
Me too. Smooth and shiny
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I also recommend Warren's .200" sight.
If I had to do it again, I would go with the .200" tall sight...
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I put a Dawson F/O sight on my 617,
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I was also thinking about a more consistent way to measure actual hammer power, that is getting a reading on JUST the hammer. That would eliminate the extra power needed to compress the rebound spring, rotate the cylinder and all the other things that occur.
with the trigger held back, I measure 4# of hammer spring, which means I have almost 4# of "other" stuff going on at the same time
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What were you going to do to the stock one? I've only honed and polished mine, didn't change any springs due to reliability worries. It's pretty smooth but hellaciously heavy and desperately needs re-springing. I just don't want to mess up the hammer and have to re-fit one.
After I made this thread, I did a search and came up with a lot of info regarding the 617. First off was that you cannot alter/lighten the hammer and expect reliability. Seems a rimfire round needs all the mass a hammer can deliver. The Apex hammer works because more weight is at the top in the area that contacts the firing pin...the thing actually LOOKS like a hammer!
That makes me wonder how a .500" target hammer would work? It has a larger thumbpiece, which would add mass up towards the top of the hammer...
The other info I gathered that a reliable 617 pull at 8# is the norm with factory parts and a reduced power rebound spring and trimmed strain screw. 7# is getting near the lowest possible but you often need aftermarket parts from mainsprings, extended FP's and the Apex hammer
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Looks like the Apex hammer is an important ingredient to get a sub 7 pound pull...
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I'm talking about trigger pull weight. With the innards smoothed up and a 12# rebound spring I have it set at 8#. My particular strain screw is trimmed to .335" from the shoulder to the tip. I'm using the factory mainspring. I have no ignition issues with 2 different Federal 22's or CCI Mini-Mags.
I made another strain screw today (.320" long) which gives me a 7# pull, but I have to try it out...
How low can you go with the factory parts? How about with the Miculek mainspring? How about with that cool looking Apex hammer?
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I was lucky that the awol pin was right there on the floor even after several days.
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OH BOY! do I feel stupid...
Opened up the sideplate again. I noticed the firing pin retaining pin had fallen out last time I was in there. That's why the firing pin was able to contact the cylinder!
I was fortunate to find the pin on the floor at my work bench. I put it back in and no more firing pin hits on the cylinder
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Sorry to bump this necro-thread, but I just wanted to add my 2 cents wirth.
I picked up this brand new 617 a couple days back, smoothed up the action and commenced to do some dry firing. After maybe 1,000 pulls I noticed that I was indeed dinging the cylinder. Again, this is a NIB S&W 617, with all factory parts & pieces...
No more dry firing WITHOUT a snap cap/spent shell for me!
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Nice vid! Thanks for posting it. I recently contacted GGI regarding the X5 extractors...looks like they'll be installing them soon
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It's purty...been meaning to do mine for some time now
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I shoot at steel...if that were my gun, I wouldn't touch a thing! Are there any direct fit front sites available? I had fit an SDM, but it sticks out of the 627's funky sight base
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NIce!
Many of "yooz gize" have sub 6# triggers and no issues with light strikes. I'm at about 6 1/2# and can't imagine it any lighter...reckon I gotta try. I have a 13# rebound spring and the Wolff RP mainspring. All my revolver 38 super brass is nickel plated Remington, federal primers and usually Clays
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My, what a big throat you have grandma! OK, now I'm just getting silly
you have .3582" diameter throats in both your 627-4's. Gotcha
a 3565" ALMOST falls through? Say what? It should drop through like a hot dog in a hallway, because your throats measure .3582".,.correcto?
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That's a big difference from .358+
The throats on the two guns I have are .3582ish. What I was saying is a .3565" slug almost falls through so they are for not .356" throats on either of these two.
Lee
I'm getting confused
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That's a big difference from .358+
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Welcome to the world of revolvers!
Couple recommendations,
Get a lot of moonclips. Ranch Products sells 'em cheap. I have a couple hundred. I always load up enough moonclips before hand so I don't have to mess with them at the match http://www.ranchproducts.com/
Get a moonclip tool. I use the simple "pipe with a handle" type. http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/moonclip-accessories/moon-clip-stripper-prod6727.aspx
I really like a fiber optic front sight, but it's all personal choice. I use a Blade-Tech holster. All my 45acp brass has large primers
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A former employer of mine had a Starrett mic that measured 5-flute end mills! (they had one for 3-flute's as well) I reckon I'll use repro-rubber to make a "slug" and measure on the comparator
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My 627-4 (SUP 096) chamber's are .356" (I'm going into millionths here!) I have not slugged the bore yet...How do you measure the 5 groove diameter accurately? I'm surprised your chambers are so big!!!
I an using Precision Delta .356" 124 fmj round nose at about 1000 fps with good results
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My 627-4 (mfg'd in '02) has a pin that measures .493" long. The Apex comp pin I bought measures .495", but the small diameter is actually .010" longer than the S&W pin, which should give .013" more protrusion...maybe. Reckon it depends on where the grooves are located in relation to each other
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You can still get 1/8" shank mounted stones from most industrial suppliers. Alec, are those 1/2" diameter?
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Good product but uses the old sear set up be sure you can get a sear before purchase. Brownell's has dropped the old sear and S@W no longer services the older sear design. You'll also need a sturrip and pins.
Huh? My 627 was made in 2002. Are you suggesting the Apex hammer won't work as provided?
Here's the print from the Apex website,
What it does:
Made from heat treated 17-4 Ph stainless steel. Wire EDM, CNC machined, and surface ground sides ensure consistent performance. Originally designed as a semi-drop in replacement in Performance Center revolvers, our redesigned part uses the same pinned sear and stirrup found on the PC hammer. Additionally, the Apex Evolution IV Hammer replaces MIM components found in S&W non-PC revolvers and PC revolvers made after Jan 2012
Fully assembled parts included: 6 Pcs (preassembled)
1. Apex Evolution 4 Hammer (N-Frame)
2. Apex Fully Machined Revolver Sear
3. Apex Sear Spring
4. Stirrup and pins (pre-installed)
5. Rebound Slide Spring (medium weight)
6. Rebound Slide Spring (light weight)
Expected results:
- This hammer converts your revolver to Double Action Only (DAO).
- Lacks a hammer spur for cocking to single action.
Applicable to what guns:- Fits current production S&W N-frame revolvers only.
Note: *Gunsmith fitting is recommended but not always necessary.
Got an HK45
in H&K
Posted
It now has new Heinie sights and a Ti-Rant suppressor!