PCFlorida
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Posts posted by PCFlorida
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I've purchased from Wideners many times over the past couple years, never any problem at all. They ship quickly, their prices are usually very competitive, they answer their phones and email. What more could you ask for?
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Here in Florida we do that all year long. A hint for women though, don't wear a loose low cut top. I swear every trip to the range you see woman doing the hot brass dance.
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$2.22 at the local station here today, which means I can probably find it about .10 cents cheaper up the road. Diesel was $2.92, time to fill up the tractor again!
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I am looking for a Class-3 FFL in Wisconsin, does anyone know one? The closer to the Twin Cities the better.
Thanks
Gunbroker has a good FFL finder at Gunbroker FFL Finder
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Interestingly enough, there is a single owner for that Class A block. You have to be careful about blocking it though, since the barristers could have difficulty reaching you if some Nigerian general requires your assistance in moving some money out of the country.
I thought that was a deal they had made only with me
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I'm a fan of C Products mags as well. Though I've heard some people knock them, I've never had a problem with them at all.
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All kidding aside, if you cannot afford both, I'd say 85-90% of new. Dillon has such a strong warranty, buying used is really like buying new.
True, I sold my SDB for about 85% of current cost, which was much more than I paid for it years ago. It helped finance the cost of my 650.
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Coming late to this party...but I've used an RCBS 9x23 for the last 15 years. IMHO, it's a better soulution than a 9x19.
A-G
But that wouldn't be a solution for the OP as he is loading on a Square Deal. The Dillon 9x19 dies should work in the SDB.
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I must be very lucky. Have reloaded for about 25 years and have yet to have a primer detonate on me. I've had a few go in sideways very crushed but they didn't go off either. Absolutely I wear eye protection, but have never felt the need to hearing protection when I'm cranking on the Dillon.
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I sold my SDB when I bought my 650. The 650 is awesome, awesome, awesome. I used a friends 550 years ago. I think the 650 even without the case feeder would be an improvement, don't forget you also get another spot in the toolhead to add a die. In my case I use a RCBS lock-out die.
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I had some left over from my old reloading days. They were aproxx. 4-5 yrs old. They kept jamming up the primer system. In frustation, I yanked on the handle, and Kaboom
I used Fed's for years with no problem, then switched over to Winchester when I had trouble getting the Fed's. I use Wolf now. Only ones I've ever had trouble with was CCI.
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HS6 will work, for a while.
It is the dirtiest thing you can do to a .45.
I thought Unique was the dirtiest thing you could do to a .45
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I've had my G21 since the early 90's. It is without a doubt the smoothest shooting, naturally pointing .45 I've ever had. And I've had more than a few. I can shoot it very well, the G21 makes me look like some sort of pistol shooting expert.
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Dillon service. Best of the best.
Easily 900 rounds an hour.
Exactly. Have done close to 1K an hour on 10MM when the stars lined up right and had lots of primer tubes filled
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My Dillon digital scale died and I haven't sent it back to them yet with $85 for replacement. However I did pickup a cheapo digital off of Ebay for about $20 or so from vendor Digiweigh-Scales. It is very accurate and repeatable. I'll still get the Dillon replaced though
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I've had a CV-2000 since the mid 1980's. I can't even begin to guess how many hundreds of thousands of empty brass it has cleaned for me. I've probably paid more for new media over the years than I paid for this tumbler to begin with. If it dies today (but I'd prefer it didn't) I'd have no complaint. It is a solid machine.
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I've had a set for about a year now, and wouldn't go back to sorting without them
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Yep, shoot all you want, no problems at all......from an armorer......
XDs are fine as well, and the glocks are ok as long as you check the barrel and load with slower powders as well. I know that is heresy, but I have friends that have been doing that since the early 90s....DougC
I'll confess to that. I've been shooting lead out of my G21 and G22 since the mid to late 90's. I run a Lewis lead remover through them once in a while if I see any buildup.
I know a lot of people claim you shouldn't, but I've never had a very big leading problem in my Glocks. Of course I don't get the case bulge that some speak about either.
Not saying it doesn't exist, just that it has never been an issue with my Glocks.
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I have the large Dillon, CV-2000 I believe, the predecessor to the current CV-2001. I can't even begin to guess how many 100K pieces of brass have been cleaned in it over the past 20+ years. I did about 5-6K just last week.
Like most Dillon stuff, it just works.
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It's probably not a bad idea to keep posting my 550 priming system adjustment notes (from a conversation with Gary at Dillon) in these threads.
Priming Assembly Adjustment Notes:
Thoroughly polish frame, wherever priming slide touches it, with green Scotch Brite. (Approx. every 3000 rounds)
Wipe off Primer Slide with solvent or alcohol. Leave it all dry.
At rest primer slide adjustment: Set so that one primer, dropped down the tube, goes all the way into the Primer Seating Cup, 10 times in a row.
Angle of Primer Slide Operating Rod (13869) - Release rod from rollers and swivel it 180º so it's pointing straight up - it should be parallel with the Primer Housing Shield, or maybe outward "a little"; it should not be "inward" at all.
Be sure both screws (14530) that tighten Roller Bracket Shell Platform (14280) from bottom (to the Shellplate Platform) are tight!
Make sure Priming Seating Punch Assembly is fully bottomed out before tightening screw (13996): Measured from bottom of Primer Slide (13920) to top of seated Primer Seating Cup (13284/5), dimension should be between 2.125 - 2.220 inches.
Be sure Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) is adjusted so it's within a few thousands of an inch from the top of frame/Toplhead.
Brian,
I see some people advise the use of powdered graphite on the primer slide and others (you also) advise to leave it dry. Currently I leave the slide dry and just try to keep it clean, have you tried graphite before?
Thanks
I never used graphite (or anything). And those tips are from Gary at Dillon (who posts here as Dillon) and is the absolute Dillon troubleshooting MOTU (Master of the Universe).
Point taken. Thanks.
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It's probably not a bad idea to keep posting my 550 priming system adjustment notes (from a conversation with Gary at Dillon) in these threads.
Priming Assembly Adjustment Notes:
Thoroughly polish frame, wherever priming slide touches it, with green Scotch Brite. (Approx. every 3000 rounds)
Wipe off Primer Slide with solvent or alcohol. Leave it all dry.
At rest primer slide adjustment: Set so that one primer, dropped down the tube, goes all the way into the Primer Seating Cup, 10 times in a row.
Angle of Primer Slide Operating Rod (13869) - Release rod from rollers and swivel it 180º so it's pointing straight up - it should be parallel with the Primer Housing Shield, or maybe outward "a little"; it should not be "inward" at all.
Be sure both screws (14530) that tighten Roller Bracket Shell Platform (14280) from bottom (to the Shellplate Platform) are tight!
Make sure Priming Seating Punch Assembly is fully bottomed out before tightening screw (13996): Measured from bottom of Primer Slide (13920) to top of seated Primer Seating Cup (13284/5), dimension should be between 2.125 - 2.220 inches.
Be sure Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) is adjusted so it's within a few thousands of an inch from the top of frame/Toplhead.
Brian,
I see some people advise the use of powdered graphite on the primer slide and others (you also) advise to leave it dry. Currently I leave the slide dry and just try to keep it clean, have you tried graphite before?
Thanks
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I had two sitting on the shelf last year when I saw what they were selling of on Ebay. my counters went for over $50.00 each 
and I got a Valentines card after the sell.I use my counter ....for like 300 rounds
I have 3 laying around, 1 of them still in the Dillon packaging. May be time to hit Ebay or Gunbroker with them
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i don't think the glock bulge is an issue for the 45 acp since its a lower pressure round but i run a EGW die for the extra insurance against bullet set back. YMMV
Thanks for the replies, I've ordered the Lee 4 die sets with the FC die, I'll see how those work for me.
Todd
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Ok guys, long time Dillon user here, I bleed Dillon blue when it comes to reloading. Have been reloading on a Square Deal since about 1986 or so, but yesterday I picked up a gently used XL650. It came with some calibers that I need, (9MM .38/.357) and some that I don't need (.38 Super, .308 Winchester).
Since with the Square Deal I've always used Dillon Dies I now find myself at the point where I need to buy some and have a choice.
I need .40/10MM and .45ACP. I shoot mainly Glocks, but have never noticed the case bulge that some talk about.
So do I just buy the Dillon carbide pistol dies, or are there others I should consider?
Thanks,
Todd
XDs are fine as well, and the glocks are ok as long as you check the barrel and load with slower powders as well. I know that is heresy, but I have friends that have been doing that since the early 90s....
I had two sitting on the shelf last year when I saw what they were selling of on Ebay. my counters went for over $50.00 each 
and I got a Valentines card after the sell.
Buying bulk powder
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
They are my component vendor of choice as well.