prickett
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Posts posted by prickett
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I'm having problems with my Pro 2000 and the auto index kit. The index cam has a tendency to shift around, regardless of how tight I tighten the bolt holding it in place due to the amount of pressure exerted on it. To anyone who has solved this problem, what is your secret?
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This is not the matter of finding the sensor - that's the easy part. Problem is to figure out how to handle the signal from it. You really need a microprocessor for that. It needs to know when to expect the primer - based on the press' position, then allow certain time window over which to detect the primer. So that can be added to something like Mark 7 machine, with its computer, but to build it on its own is not trivial.
No, I don't need anything nearly that involved. I'm thinking something like an LED that illuminates anytime a primes passes the sensor. I place the LED up on my press near the bullet feeder (since I'm visually inspecting that a bullet successfully fed).
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I don't know if it would be adaptable to your needs but the Mark 7 has a decapped primer sensor.
woof
Ouch! $200? I'm hoping for a $20 solution
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I removed the small jar for spent primers and run a 7/16 tubing on the pipe into a qt sized gatorade bottle. I can hear the primer when it hits the bottle and know it has been ejected.
Same here, but the sound of the bullet feeder drowns out the primer impact sound.
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I have an RCBS Pro 2000 that has a tube deprimed primers slid down. I'd like to add a photoeye that beeps whenever a spent primer slides by (so I know it successfully deprimed - not got stuck like crimped primers do).
Has anyone done something like this?
I'd love to hear suggestions and/or see your solutions.
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Very impressive!!!! Must be great to have skills
Sadly, I do not. 
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Tried another dry run and it filled pretty quickly. I then tried an actual run. I started with a full tube and it appeared I'd run out about 3/4 of the way through. But, I dumped a bunch more bullets in the hopper and it loaded enough that I didn't run out. I think my big breakthrough might be in realizing I need to have bunches of bullets in the hopper. The more there are, the quicker it fills.
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If you wanted it a little more hands free than using tubes you could also get a MBF collator. Every bullet drops, if it's ok it drops into the tube, if it is inverted it flips it then drops it. So they don't just sit there and run all the time.If you don't want noise, there is an alternative.
At the beginning of this video you can see how one of my homade versions work.
That was a design I considered before just giving up and buying one. I never was able to figure out how you get the bullet to fall over if it is upside down so the flipper ramp could right it.
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I know I'm not answering your question. I do have a question for you about the RCBS bullet feeder. How quite is it? I am told by a couple people the hornady is pretty load. I am thinking about getting one for my Pro 2000 as well, so I am interested in this thread as well.
Not sure how to answer as I have nothing to compare it to. I guess I'd suggest filling a coffee can full of bullets and tumbling it. The noise isn't from the unit, its from the bullets tumbling.
If you don't want noise, there is an alternative. Get a Hornady bullet feed die and some clear plastic feed tubes (from an aquarium store). Fill the tubes with about 60 bullets each. This is what I did before getting the feeder machine. I can always fall back to using the machine to just fill the tubes (meaning the machine wouldn't run at all while I reload) - each night turn them on and leave - in the morning have a loaded tube ready to go. Do this several times per week, and load when you have enough full tubes.
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I know I'm not answering your question. I do have a question for you about the RCBS bullet feeder. How quite is it? I am told by a couple people the hornady is pretty load. I am thinking about getting one for my Pro 2000 as well, so I am interested in this thread as well.
Not sure how to answer as I have nothing to compare it to. I guess I'd suggest filling a coffee can full of bullets and tumbling it. The noise isn't from the unit, its from the bullets tumbling.
If you don't want noise, there is an alternative. Get a Hornady bullet feed die and some clear plastic feed tubes (from an aquarium store). Fill the tubes with about 60 bullets each. This is what I did before getting the feeder machine. I can always fall back to using the machine to just fill the tubes (meaning the machine wouldn't run at all while I reload) - each night turn them on and leave - in the morning have a tube ready to go.
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speed....
yours sounds a bit slow.
is the motor hot?
I'd look for a jam or such. find the jam.
at 10 bullets a minute it is 600 bullets an hour
so 20 a minute is about my idea of about right.
miranda
The platter is spinning just fine. It is that the bullets just aren't aligning correctly. It may have to spin quite a few rotations before a single bullet will drop.
Its not dropping 10 bullets a minute. It took 10 minutes to fill 40 or so bullets.
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I just bought an RCBS bullet feeder (seems to be the same design as the Hornady bullet feeder) for my Pro 2000 press and boy is the feeder slow. While it seems to be reliable in getting bullets in the right orientation, it took around 10 minutes to fill the initial tube. At that speed, it won't be able to keep pace with the press.
Are there any tweaks or hints anyone can provide? I'm wonder, for example, if waxing the rotating platter would improve things as it might allow bullets to slide down before the wipe out spring knocks the bullet off.
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Thanks guys!
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At an IPSC competition this morning, someone told me I needed to attach my outer belt to my inner belt, or, run my belt through 3 more more belt loops. He then told me there was a velcro fastener I could also use that would join the outer belt to the inner belt. What are the fasteners called (so I know what to search for)? And, does anyone have a good source for these fasteners?
TIA
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The problem is that the plates don't have anything to aim at. Does anyone have training tips for how to go about aiming at plates when there is nothing to aim at?
Staple 6-8" paper plates to cross member or target stand uprights. Cheap and easy...
i like this!! its the simple things in life!
The problem with all these suggestions is that they get me used to shooting (aiming) at something that isn't going to be present on match day. What I'm trying to achieve is - when transitioning from plate to plate I can subconsciously be aiming at something smaller than the whole plate. Our plates have 2 bolts through them that would be good for aiming at, but are located an inch from the top and sides of the plate, leaving a small margin of error.
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I am looking to training techniques to help my accuracy when shooting steel. Generally, I just aim at the plate. But, I now want to aim small. The problem is that the plates don't have anything to aim at. Does anyone have training tips for how to go about aiming at plates when there is nothing to aim at?
TIA
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I'm considering going airsoft and see that you have a choice between spring and gas powered pistols. Most people seem to be buying gas guns. Are spring guns a viable option or are they just toys?
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I keep seeing EVERYONE say to dry fire on a regular basis. What I don't hear is how to do it. Do the experts mean for me to just aim at something and practice my trigger pull or is there more to it?
When I dry fire, I have a nice slow, controlled pull (take my time and ensure I remain on target the whole time). But, at the range when I shoot, I'm all over the place. I'm shooting faster, so I'm wondering if I should be doing something different in my dry fire drills.
Anyone?
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Anyone have experience using LaserLyte ( http://www.thetacticalwire.com/story/205119 ) or iMarksman ( http://www.imarksman.com/products/68.html ) for training? Its dry firing, with the benefit of a laser showing where your shot would have gone.
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Dry fire can help with this too. Focus real hard on your front sight and drop the hammer without moving the sight. Balance a penny on the front sight and drop the hammer without making it fall off. Do this about a million times.The Hard Part
Aiming is not the hard part. Releasing the shot without disturbing your hold is (the hard part). After establishing correct intention, your body will aim your pistol without effort. Brian Enos
thanks everyone!
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I've seen recipes claiming to be the original formula for Hoppes ( http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm ). Has anyone out there actually tried mixing up a batch? I'm currently using Ed's Red, which uses commonly available ingredients. Looking at the ingredients for Hoppe's, I haven't a clue where to get any of them.
So, if you've tried it, was it effective?
And, what is a source for the ingredients?
TIA
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I shoot several pistols in several calibers (from pellet to .45 ACP) and it seems in all cases my point of impact is 7 or 8 0'clock. Looking at an error analysis clock, that equates to either jerking or tightening fingers. Try as I might, I can't fix the problem.
Can anyone suggest techniques to overcome this problem?
Thanks!
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Something else you might want to try is moly coated bullets. I haven't used them personally, but they are claimed to reduce smoke. You can either buy lead precoated, or coat them yourself.
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Do you know the thread size? I'm guessing something like #4-40, or a little bigger.
They do make Helicoils that small, but if you have to buy the installation kit, it's spendy.
Oversize screw is apt to be most practical.
Thanks for the replies. I found someone who can tap the hole for me, so hopefully there'll be a happy ending to this story!
Sadly, I do not. 
trigger not resetting...... striker not catching trigger bar
in Glock
Posted
Thanks so much for your expertise! My G19 wasn't releasing the striker. I inspected all parts and everything appeared to be fine. Then I saw your post and installed a different connector and all is good again! Thanks again.