GW45ACP
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Posts posted by GW45ACP
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When you are actuating the powder measure removed from the toolhead/powder die, it is possible to drop out the white plastic 13845 collar sleeve, particularly on the older style powder system. I've retrieved mine from more than one can of powder until I started making my makeshift paper funnels with a smaller hole.
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You didn't mention if you are using Hornady OneShot on the cases before loading. If not, I would recommend it, especially with the SDB.
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I used to buy Berry's 155gr plated, but with their lead surcharge, they aren't as competitively priced as others. I switched to Montana Gold Bullets. Their 155gr FMJ's are $288/3K delivered.
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I have started to collect a large ammount of the military primmed brass. I have the Dillon Swagger but not sure how to deprime it before putting it in the swagger. I have the Dillon 550 and don't want to break a whole bunch of pins deprimming the brass. Is there a way to setup the depriming die to avoid breaking them. Really what I am asking is what do you do to the military primed .223 brass?
I see your questions are answered, but I do use the Lee universal decapping die on my single stage press or in a dedicated toolhead on the Dillon. Obviously, it is faster on the Dillon because you don't have to manually remove the case each time. I've never broken a decapping pin, but it pays to have a few on hand just in case.
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I did use an old B&D Workmate bench in my office when I didn't have a reloading room. It worked OK, but it sits a little too low so I had to find the right chair to make it usable for extended reloading sessions. It will fill the bill if your options are limited.
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You'll likely have strontium and cadmium in modern battery lead alloys. They are extremely toxic if not handled properly. The can also contain copper, iron and calcium making the alloy poorly suited for casting.
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I'd start with checking on what others use as their favorite powders and for what purpose. Here's one thread in the FAQ's
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...avorite+powders
I used to use several different powders for 9mm, 40S&W, 357 Mag, 45ACP, and 5.7x28. Now I generally only load 40, 45, and 5.7 and I've standardized on one powder for all three, but that generally means your are compromising performance on two of the three.
If you are looking for the best performance for several different pistol calibers and purposes, you'll definitely need to do some more reading and research as well as spending a lot of time at the chrono to determine which powders fit your needs.
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http://www.stiguns.com/SkinnErgrams/SGRAM-102.html
I'd check with their website and/or call them. I would assume that they have periodic price increases based on their current mfg cost and don't have scheduled cost increases except with new model years. With the cost of metals today, it's likely that all firearms manufacturers will have to adjust pricing with each production run.
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I generally err on the side of caution. I won't risk my firearms for the price of ten rounds. If it were me, I'd pull the bullets and chalk up the rest to experience.
If a round chambers properly, has the correct powder charge and there is no risk of bullet setback, you should be fine, but is it worth the risk for a couple of bucks?
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I have a friend that is using ultrasonic cleaning for his low volume BR shooting based on the 6mmbr.com article. He has very good results, but yes, it is low volume. I've also heard that the Harbor Freight Tools variety ultra-sonic cleaners have a fairly high failure rate.
I think for high volume shooting, I would look more toward a wet media case cleaner such as a Thumbler's Tumbler or the RCBS sidewinder unit.
I know that some people even go crazy with silicone caulk and a cheap Frankford Arsenal vibratory case cleaner or similar to make it water tight. I don't recommend it, but they are being used successfully. I just use a little water in the media in my Dillon VC-500 and dryer sheets cut up in two inch squares and change out the media when it looks dirty.
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Other than that, it was easier than I thought it was going to be to set everything up. The instructional video was very helpful, I just wish they offered it in DVD format instead of VHS. I had to dig my old VCR out of the closet to watch the thing. I suppose I can always hook everything up to my PC and then capture the video and burn it to DVD for later use.
Yeah, I would venture a guess that Dillon will be upgrading the instructional video to DVD soon if they haven't already. Maybe by now it should be available to download free of charge as AVI or QuickTime format? Just a thought...
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Brian's FAQ's is a good place to start when looking for powder, primers and other reloading components.
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I'm assuming I need a different shell plate, but I'm not sure which one.
There is one thread on 7.5 Swiss that notes some differences on the type of brass you are loading.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...Swiss+on+dillon
It doesn't mention the Prvi Partisan brass, so you may want to give Dillon a call and find out what the solution is.
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I didn't realize you could get a neck sizer only die...thus my question "how do you neck size on a progressive?"
You neck size the same way you full length size. The difference is a neck sizer die is in station one instead of the full length sizer die. Neck sizer dies, such as the Lee brand are adjusted differently than a FL sizer die, but the operation of the press is virtually the same. Neck sizing with the Lee die does not require lubing the cases.
Keep in mind that BerKim's tip is to neck size after full length sizing and trimming to touch up the case mouth and clean out the flash hole. If you are shooting the ammo in a specific bolt gun, you can get away with neck sizing only because you are essentially fire forming the brass to that specific chamber. If you are shooting an auto or the same ammo in multiple bolt guns, you have to full size to ensure proper chambering. There are always exceptions so YMMV. --GW
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Using a neck sizer for that purpose isn't something I've ever considered, but it is a very good idea and one I'm going to try. Thanks BerKim.
One could also use a universal decapping die to clear out the flash hole if that is all that is needed.
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John - How many rounds of of 45 will you generally go through in a week? If you're under 1000 and you want to eventually add the other three calibers you mentioned, the 550B will be an excellent choice. You'll have less $$$ invested in caliber conversions and it is faster to change from one to another than the 650.
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I load mostly 40S&W and 45ACP on my 550B, but I also have loaded 303 British cartridges. I generally run them thru one at a time and it works well enough.
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Last week I checked the time, walked downstairs to the reloading bench, loaded a primer tube, cranked out 100 rounds of 40 S&W with a couple of powder weight verifications in between. When I came upstairs it was exactly 15 minutes total time elapsed. 400 to 500 rounds/hr is doable for 40 S&W.
I load .221, .223 and 5.7X28 on the Dillon and, as was already indicated, the taller cases with the smaller diameter neck will limit your speed, but you can still expect to load 250-300/hr on the 550B with prepped cases. With 223, it is also more critical to adjust the shell plate as snug as possible and still allow smooth rotation due to the need to keep the cases from tipping slightly and causing alignment problems during cycling.
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Hey guys
The XD45 according to popular opinion doesn't function real well with semi-wadcutter bullets, so I will be sticking with roundnose bullets.
Would either the 230gr. RN plated or hardcast work for both practice and competition?
Would either bullet type place me at a disadvantage in competition?
Because of the cost factor, can I go just with the hardcast bullets for both practice and competition?
For consistancy sake, can I use the same powder weight charge for practice/competition?
Thanks
Randy
Randy - My XD45 handles 230gr TC's and my friend with the same model has been shooting plated 200gr SWC's with very good reliability. Guy's advice it correct: Try some of each and see how they work.
As far as load recipe for practice vs. competition, I always loaded the same for both just for the sake of consistency.
Either plated or cast should work for competition. I just ran through the last of my Berry's 230gr RN plated purchased pre-lead surcharge
Current prices on cast lead have been out of sight for some time now so I'm back to casting my own. As previously noted by Guy, the cast lead bullets definitely produce more smoke. It didn't create any problems for me, but YMMV. --GW -
+1 on scrounging for 9 & 40 brass. Before I even purchased my FNP-40, I collected four 3lb coffee canfulls of 40 S&W range pick up. It seems to be even more plentiful than 9mm brass as far as indoor ranges are concerned.
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GLEN FRYXELL has an article that touches on this subject. I use a spray bottle of water and add just enough to the tumbling media so that it doesn't make it clump.
I also like ChrisStock's dryer sheet tip, too. I've been using them for the past year and it even helps extend the life of the media.
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thanks
last question about that brass, since it's military brass the second time i reload it i shouldn't have to swage it do i? should just come right now with the 650's depriming pin when doing another batch?
You only have to remove the crimp once.
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I load 9mm on a lee 1000 now (please stop choking and read on). I know and will buy a Dillon in the next month, plan on starting to load .45 with it and getting a full caliber conversion for 9 in the future (can load 9 on the lee) if money is short at purchase time. Further down the line i will want to load .40 and .223. With all that said, there will be some caliber conversion going on.
I know multiple Dillon's will be suggested, but for now with the money situation, thats the plan.
550 or 650 / Which way do I go????????
Thanks in advance for help!!
I shoot about 600-800 rounds a month live fire.
If you are going to load three or four calibers and replenish 600-800 rounds/month, the 550B will easily handle that volume and your investment in caliber conversions will be less $$$ than the 650.
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Get a 1 gal. zip lock baggie, couple squirts of One Shot inside, add cases, zip, and shake. Load and shoot.
+1. This is absolutely the easiest approach and makes the One Shot go a looooooooooong way.
+1 on the baggie tip. The key to one shot is don't overspray. A one second shot in a big baggie with about 200 pieces of brass in it works fine. You only need to get a slight amount of lube on the cases. If the cases feel greasy after you have reloaded you used a bit too much.
Oops. I've been using too much.
Current prices on cast lead have been out of sight for some time now so I'm back to casting my own. As previously noted by Guy, the cast lead bullets definitely produce more smoke. It didn't create any problems for me, but YMMV. --GW
If not Varget, then what?
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
Another vote for TAC. I use it for .223, .308, 7.62X54r and it meters very well thru the Dillon powder measure.