Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Skelt11

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Skelt11

  1. 20 hours ago, ddc said:

     

    The stated OAL in a load recipe is not meant to imply that it is the only OAL you should consider.

     

    If the recipe comes from a commercial source such as a powder company then it is the OAL that they used that created a cartridge that they considered to be appropriate for that powder and also was safe as far as pressure considerations are concerned.

     

    It should be considered a reasonable starting point for your own load development. If the charge weight you think you will use is at the upper end of the load range I would suggest starting a little lower and checking for any adverse pressure indications as you work it up.

     

    There are so many variables to consider as far as varying OAL, choosing bullets, selecting a powder, stc... there is no way to put it all in a single chapter in a book let alone into a single email.

     

    I would suggest you start with a known recipe from a commercial source and stick to it as closely as possible. As your experience grows you can start to consider variations on that.

     

    Alternatively if you are working with a mentor then I would follow their suggestions.

     

    Thanks for the info ddc. I have a question about lowering the oal when loading on the upper end of the receipe’s charge weight. Why you do that in that situation? If there is more powder and less space inside the cartridge, wouldn’t that increase pressure?

  2. 38 minutes ago, Ssanders224 said:

    Has it been established what projectiles the OP is using?  Small variances in ogive can absolutely affect OAL to this degree. 

     

    Also, make sure you are not measuring high primers.  I've seen guys not consistently seating primers below flush, and then drive themselves crazy because they cannot figure out why some rounds are measuring long. 

    I’m not the OP but I’m using PD 124gr JHP. 

  3. 3 hours ago, lgh said:

    Skelt -  Unless you have really, really precise and accurate calipers, it is probably not possible to measure accurately to 1/10,000. The calipers might read to that level but that does not mean it is accurate to that level. So in your example, the comparison is more appropriately 1.142 to 1.143.

    That’s a very good point. That’s the read out on the Mitutoyo digital calibers I use. I’ve realized I was chasing my tail trying to get so close after read this thread and others. I went the range yesterday and ran 110 round through a CZ. 100% reliable, SD of 16 and 16.2 between three strings of five rounds, and a high extreme spread of 44. 

  4. 18 minutes ago, ddc said:

     

    I think what you are seeing is typically about as good as it gets. There may be some machines that due to tolerances that stacked up in the right direction can do better but on average I think your numbers are where they should be.

     

     

    Thats good to hear. I reset my dies probably three or four times trying to get them spot on. I’ve read several places that as long as the oal functions in your guns then you’re good. So is the recommended oal in receipts that big of a deal? I’ve read several threads on some other forums that some are running a 1.10 with the same bullet weight and powder. I’m still learning the impact of oal and performance of the round I guess. 

  5. On 5/11/2018 at 2:09 PM, PPGMD said:

     

     

    I've said this in Paulie's thread, but I consider the Spare Parts Kit as an essential as well. The $28 it costs will prevent you from having to wait a week to load if a part breaks. You still call and get the replacement sent from Dillon for free, but instead you get your machine working. And if that part isn't the issue you know then, not a week later.

     

    +1 on this. I’m just setting my 650 up and less than 100 rounds in my locator pin in station five for severly bent and flew out. I’m waiting on a spare parts kit now and I was just getting going. 

  6. I’ve been chasing my tail on this the past few days myself. I’ve read all the posts regarding the issue. My desired oal is 1.140. I can’t seem to get right on that but I’m getting anywhere from 1.1415 to 1.1430. Every once in a while I’ll get one out to 1.1450. I tried adjusting the seating die several times but no matter how small the tweak I ended up further off. I spoke to a rep at Dillion today and he said +/- .005” is normal and is due to the differences in brass used that are in the stations before the seating die. Just thought I’d share what he told me. 

  7. On 7/12/2017 at 11:21 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

    And while you're ordering springs, I'd convert the gun to the extra-power extractor spring if I were you. I'd say it made a huge difference in my gun, but I installed all the aftermarket goodies at once after just 100 or so rounds through the gun.

     

     

    I just ran into this issue three times this weekend at a local match after probably 3-4K rounds through my Stock 2. I guess that makes me wonder how often I need to be replacing springs like this one.

     

    I'll be ordering some tonight. I'm shooting area 8 in a few weeks and this hangup really bothered me. Definitely killed my standings trying to clear the issue. 

  8. I never carried bullets out until I started using Ghost mag pouches. I find it is a more natural draw for me and less fumbling but everyone is different of course. I've also seen a few people who run bullets forward on the first couple of carriers and then bullets out on the rear most mag carriers.

  9. On April 7, 2017 at 0:46 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

    I didn't sand that spot - a dremel and a polishing wheel until it was slick to the touch.

     

    "rubbing like crazy?" What does that mean, exactly?

     

    Also, the ROUGHEST sandpaper that touched my gun was 2,000 grit and that was only inside frame and pin holes. You're not trying to remove any material. It's simply the easiest way I could figure to get something coated in polishing compound inside the small holes of the gun... and spun with a drill.

     

     

     

    "Rubbing like crazy" = The right side of the trigger bar, as I'm holding the gun, has a lot of contact with the right side of the frame. The left side doesn't show much contact. If I polish the trigger bar again and fire another 50-100 rounds the polish is gone. I need to order smaller felt wheels and I'll give it a shot. 

  10. 4 hours ago, johnbu said:

    Italian strippers ! Woo hoo!

    Oh...never mind.

     

    Lol.

     

    Did you strip the splines of the screw? Or mess up the threads on the frame?

     

    I stripped the splines out of the torks screws and used a heat gun and hex key to get it out.  lock tite actually held that time !

     

    Thats exactly what happened actually. Henning is making new screws out of harder heat treated steel now as I just found out :-) 

  11. 13 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    Snapped it off, or stripped the threads in the frame?

     

    I promise I'm not laughing. But I might be lying.

     

     

    Stripped the head of the screw out. All is good though. I stared at it for a few hours and it finally realized how pissed I was and backed itself out. I don't negotiate with terrorists. Stuck with the crappy wood grips for the match this weekend though. 

  12. On April 3, 2017 at 3:07 PM, TravisNC said:

    Sub second draws on his first 10 draws ever?  Impressive. 

     

    Good reflexes for sure but add some complexity to it and you'll see skills advance over quick reaction times I'm sure. But still really friggin amazing. 

  13. 21 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

     

    <voice of demon on right shoulder>

    "Oh come on... how could you possibly hurt the gun by doing a little smoothing?"

     

    <voice of angel on left shoulder>

    "Because you're going to drop the slide and break the rear sight, or get the firing pin block spring turned sideways, or..."

     

     

    Demon - "Dude you'll find the spring, don't worry about it. You've got four hours before you have to get up, plenty of time"

     

    Angel - "You're a complete dumbass."

     

    Seriously, happened right before my first official match :-) 

  14. If you haven't been exercising go easy on them though. It's pretty easy to hurt your lower body if you've been out of it for a long time. Get used to moving faster in general first. Jogging, short light sprints, and stretching regularly would be a good place to start to get your lower body back into shape to start doing more agility based exercises. Add in ladder drills, cone work, etc as you feel you are ready for it. A trainer at a gym would be great too if its in your budget. I see trainers at my gym doing agility work with clients all the time. 

  15. 2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    The rails for the slide and the insides of the holes for the hammer and trigger bar plunger are definitely worth polishing.

     

    If your gun has a few thousand rounds through it, I doubt you'll notice even those areas being smoothed out.

     

    But it certainly doesn't hurt.

     

     

    I agree. I've got a match this weekend so I'll hit it next week and see how it turns out. I have a bad history with working on a gun right before the match lol.

  16. Hi guys. Does anyone have an update on the 10+ discount? I am planning on taking my 220ST to him when I get back in a few weeks. I was going to see if I could join the group purchase if it was possible.

    Thanks!

×
×
  • Create New...