The Law
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Posts posted by The Law
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Why a camera on a casefeeder?
Check powder maybe?
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So I know you have options but with an abundance of 223 brass and a dillon swager this is way to time consuming. I cant see buying a 1050 just for processing, or wait, is it really worth it. I see some have used the G.S. Customs swager but is voiding your warranty really worth it and does it work flawlessly. The reviews I've seen said 50/50 chance, owner says flawless but that's expected. I see rcbs has one but still to time consuming. I guess my question is do I sell my 550 to fund the 1050 or does anyone have a better option for swaging brass that will work
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All I can say is I liked my first S1050 so much I bought two more. I have one set up for 308, 9mm and 45acp. I run tons a of military crimped brass without ever having ONE problem. As I shoot a lot of long distance in 308 and chase accuracy, I end up with a lot of Black Hills brass which is crimped and I get match accuracy without having to go back and clean pockets ever...other then tumbling....I'm a big proponent.... One tip: if you go with a 1050 when you set you swaging die, take a hack saw or other system and cut one piece of brass right done the middle. This makes setting the swage die a breeze and once it's set, it stays that way....using a cut case eliminates guessing....good luck..C
Agreed. The cross-section cut case really helps dial in the swager in eliminates a lot of the priming problems associated with a 1050 (in my experience, have several 1050s). I also suggest a set of go/no-go gauges for primer pockets.
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None that havent been caused by insufficient swaging or a dirty press.
Same here. I've got three S 1050s and a RL 1050 and the only headache with priming has always been related to swaging adjustments.
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For those that need them, here are the complete Uniquetek Micrometer Powder Bar Kit instructions.
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OK great one down, so I can assume that Dillon does not offer the proper adapter anymore?
I don't know if Dillon still has the RL 1050 adapter housing anymore (part no. 13534); it isn't listed online at least. The Super 1050 adapter housing might be used in its place (part no. 11006; $17.75) since you have a case feed adapter for a Super 1050 in .223.
I can measure and compare the two and I might just to put this to rest for myself, but my offer still stands since I don't need my case feed adapter.
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Hello, I have searched and not found anything to fix these issues.
This is my Third dillon press I have a 55, 650 and now this RL1050 which I purchased incomplete, basically I got the press.
I am attempting to install a case feeder and a caliber conversion kit for 223.
First issue is that the case feeder bowl seems to be rotated about 15 degrees to the left, so the tube sits at an angle. I saw one post about this on the dillon forum but no solution.
Second the cas feed tube adapter seems to be indexed 180 degrees off. The cut out to pass the brass is facing me when installed and not facing the shellplate. Anyone ever heard of this?
Did I receive the wrong parts or I am I doing something wrong?
I can comment on the second question as I just got through with a complete restoration of an RL 1050. The adapter housing on the RL 1050 has the locating pin hole 180 degrees from the Super 1050. Thus, if you are using an RL 1050 case feed adapter for .223 in a Super 1050 adapter housing, it will be turned 180 degrees.
I may have the old RL 1050 case feed adapter for .223 from my project kicking around if you want it. I'm using mine exclusively for 9mm.
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I have mine directly mounted to my bench, but Dan over at Inline Fabrication has a mount for the 1050. It might be worth looking in to.
ETA: He has a 4" and a 6" model for varying heights.
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I make 9mm and 45 acp. I'm wondering is it just as easy to reload the 357 sig as the ones I allready do... Is it true all I need is a new set of dies, don't need to get or do anything else ?
Back in the day I loaded a bunch of 357 SIG on my 650. I would recommend a good sizing die and a case gage for sure. It's a different beast because it is bottle-necked; it's more like a rifle case than a pistol case for reloading purposes (sizing is critical).
Those were my experiences (I don't load it anymore).
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First AWESOME Makeover. Very cool.
Couple of questions.
1) how much did the bearing cost? I would like to have a spare or two.
2) was the press sloppy at all when you got it? I am wondering if the coating made the main shaft tight?
Thanks!
1) I believe it was $325 for the crankshaft bearing kit from Dillon. You can't order online, only over the phone I believe. It's a different set up than the one that came with the press.
2) I don't think it was very sloppy as I recall, but it does move smoother now.
Wow 325 for a bearing kit. While that seems pricy I think it is about time to get one. I will see if I can get ahold of them this week and get one ordered.
So I said only 2 questions but I have one more. . . . Where did you get and what is that handle? I prefer to be able to feel the press so no auto drive for me. Is that handle better than the stock one?
It's an entire new crankshaft assembly. Dillon won't just send you a bearing. After comparing the new one with the old one I can see why, it's an entirely different bearing set up. The older bearing has it's own race to hold the needles/rollers while the new one uses the main/crankshaft hub as a race along with retaining rings (as in the RL 1050 manual).
The handle is an ERGO handle from Inline Fabrication that I had Cerakoted. I have them on all of my 1050s.
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First AWESOME Makeover. Very cool.
Couple of questions.
1) how much did the bearing cost? I would like to have a spare or two.
2) was the press sloppy at all when you got it? I am wondering if the coating made the main shaft tight?
Thanks!
1) I believe it was $325 for the crankshaft bearing kit from Dillon. You can't order online, only over the phone I believe. It's a different set up than the one that came with the press.
2) I don't think it was very sloppy as I recall, but it does move smoother now.
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My good friend's father passed away about fifteen years ago and left him with his reloading collection (RL 1050, XL 650, and a 550 along with components, etc.). It's been sitting in his garage until recently. He doesn't reload so I did some horse trading for the RL 1050 a couple of months ago. I already had three Super 1050s: one for 9mm, one for processing .223 and one for loading .223. The idea of snagging the RL 1050 for exclusive 9mm use was intriguing, so I picked it up. Needless to say, it was rough with rust and age (I had started disassembly):
Before:
And now after:
I sent off the base, toolhead, and a few other pieces for Cerakoting at Valkyrie Combat here locally. They whipped up a blue and silver for the parts to give it some variety after it was blasted and prepped. I used polished stainless bolts and hardware where I could. I ordered a new bearing kit from Dillon as well.
I had a majority of the moving parts Nickel Boron coated by WMD Guns. This included the main shaft, primer system, swager, crankshaft, shell plate nut, case feed plunger and roller/bolt, and others. I wanted to experiment with the NiB coating as it has some positives, including lubricity. If I can limit the amount of lubricants on the press, hopefully I can keep the mess to a minimum (wishful thinking with me).
As you can see, it isn't quite finished so I haven't had the chance to load on it yet. I've got it mostly running and can say it is nice and smooth. I'm upgrading my Super 1050s similarly, mostly with the NiB coated parts.
I'll keep you advised as the experiment progresses.
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To my knowledge the differences would be minor. I started out with an "older" 650 and eventually purchased an upgrade kit from Dillon to bring it up to current spec. I think all it was were zerk fitted pins for the handle assembly. There's not much that has changed over the years.
I say you are good to go. My first press was a 650.
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I dont think dillon aero is the same as dillon precision.
They are sister companies.
I have a gunsmith friend whose former employer was the Dept. of Energy. They buy A LOT of miniguns for their security. He told me about his visit to Dillon many years back. They got to play with the miniguns (Dillon was trying to get a DOE contract), including firing miniguns from helicopters in the AZ desert.
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I have a friend that inherited a lot of components from his father. He doesn't reload so he's given me the components and I give him loaded ammo. He's a firearms instructor as well, so I get lots of free training in exchange. Overall, it's a good deal for me.
As for the legality (needing a FFL), here is what the ATF says:
Q: Is a person who reloads ammunition required to be licensed as a manufacturer?Yes, if the person engages in the business of selling or distributing reloads for the purpose of livelihood and profit. No, if the person reloads only for personal use.
[18 U.S.C. 922(a) (i) and 923(a), 27 CFR 478.41]
The operative words there are "livelihood" and "profit." If you are reloading for others for just the price of components, bartering, or otherwise not making a living at it, you do not need a FFL. If you are not in the business of making and selling ammo, you should be fine.
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I recently pick up a RL1050 from a friend and decided to run an experiment since some parts were rusted or needed to be replaced. The moving parts (main shaft, shell plate, lock ring, etc.) were sent off to WMD Guns for NiB coating and polishing. NiB provides lubricity and should reduce the need for grease/oil, which inevitably gets gunked up with powder. I should be receiving the parts back real soon, so I can get it reassembled.
Non-moving parts (base, tool head, etc.) were cerakoted by Valkyrie Combat. It should look nice once I get it all back together.
The cerakote is gonna look great, I'd bet. Dare I ask what colors?
I have considered NiB, and only settled on NP3 because I just got a 1911 back that's been NP3'd, and it's some really slick stuff. I am going to try it out, and I may just go with NiB for the next shellplate... we'll see.
It is basically a Dillon blue with some parts coated in a satin aluminum. I'll post pictures once I've got everything back.
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I recently pick up a RL1050 from a friend and decided to run an experiment since some parts were rusted or needed to be replaced. The moving parts (main shaft, shell plate, lock ring, etc.) were sent off to WMD Guns for NiB coating and polishing. NiB provides lubricity and should reduce the need for grease/oil, which inevitably gets gunked up with powder. I should be receiving the parts back real soon, so I can get it reassembled.
Non-moving parts (base, tool head, etc.) were cerakoted by Valkyrie Combat. It should look nice once I get it all back together.
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Had one but ended up selling it. I can load my ten pick up tubes plenty fast and I know that I don't have any upside down primers. I read too many mixed reviews to give me confidence in the unit.
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Having owned a 650 and now owning several 1050s, the 650 caliber changes can be a bit quicker. I can't honestly understand the obsession with "speed" for caliber changes. Unless you are is some kind of reloading/caliber change competition, time shouldn't be a big deal, but what do I know?
If you buy a large and small primer system already set up for the 650 (I did, it's more affordable than doing the same for a 1050), caliber changes are simplified and even faster. If you don't need the swaging of the 1050, then a 650 is a great alternative. I finally sold my 650 for dedicated 1050s to make my life easier. I am also loading a lot of crimped brass so the built-in swager was a godsend. A tricked-out 650 can load a ton of ammo at a very good clip.
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I spoke with a Dillon rep the other day while ordering some parts for my RL 1050 project. He said that the RT 1500 probably wouldn't be available until "summer." FWIW
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My 1050s get a steady diet of mixed headstamp brass without issue. I also use the cutaway case and don't usually have any problems.
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I received a Dillon Super 1050 from Graf's that was supposedly "set up" from the factory. The primer system was a train wreck. Both the primer seating depth and swager were no where near close to what they needed to be.
It wasn't a big deal once I figured out the issues, but it took me a hot minute to get things working right.
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Sorry to revive this but....I am New here to the forum but not from hand loading. I too own a Super 1050 and have had issues with an average 20k cycle per toolhead spring. I have taken this matter in my own hands and have been working with spring manufacturer that has over 80 years of experience. I have made a custom spring bushing to accommodate the new spring. I have sent them specks on a new unused spring from dillon and they have mocked the OEM spring's "feel" while guaranteeing me 5-10 times longer life. If any are interested let me know so I can get a good idea the quantity of springs and bushings I would need. As with all I am trying to stay as affordable as possible making it worth while. I would like to order over 100 setups. Transactions would be handled through eBay and I am working on a free spring replacement to those who do/money back guarantee. As of now I only have in-mind a few springs for myself. I love Dillon's products but feel small tweaks/feedback from end users are "key". Feel free to ask questions...
CS spring? What kind of price on that set up?
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Motors are not the same between the 1200 and 1500. 1500 is BEEFY, bearings and brushes are 3x the size, magnets in the housing are way bigger, everything is bigger internally. Its really overkill for everything except 300BLK conversion. It uses the same vacuum attachment, power box and cutter inserts as RT1200, but thats it. You couldnt take an RT1200 internals and drop it into the RT1500 frame. For simple brass trimming of 223 and 308 stuff the RT1200 is more than adequate and I dont believe they intend to stop making it. The market for this bigger one is 300BLK conversion.
Supposedly later this year they will be ready. One person told me $450-500, but another at SHOT said 30-50 bucks more than rt1200.
Supposedly somebody is also working on a 1050 tool head similar to the 650 tool head they had on display, but nobody would talk about that.
I went over to the GSI booth after talking to the Dillon rep and GSI said they were "thinking about" producing a 1050 trimming tool head similar to the 650 one shown in the photo above. Needless to say I gave them as much encouragement as I could...
The Dillon rep I spoke with about the RT 1500 seemed fairly knowledgeable and comfortable discussing the new trimmer. As stated, it's a beefed up motor designed to handle the rigors of trimming/creating 300 Blackout brass. He made it sound like they were waiting to clear out their current inventory of RT 1200 trimmers (next 30 days or so he said) and then the RT 1500 would take its place/become available.
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Any idea on what the new trimmer will cost?
The Dillon rep I spoke with said it would be about $30 more than the 1200 (around $300).
Availability will be once current stock of 1200s is gone (30 days or so was the estimate).
RT1500 on 1050?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by The Law
For those of us with 1050s that just want a more robust trimmer and don't plan on doing 300BLK, is there any reason this won't work on my 1200B .223 trim die?
I'm still not clear on the issue.