[Casefeeder - Brass Stops the Casefeeder Here]

Fixed! Thank you

[Casefeeder - Brass Stops the Casefeeder Here]

Hi, I continually have brass get stuck on this part of the casefeeder which stops the casefeeder plate from rotating. I have to remove 45 brass on this area before brass releases into the tube about every 10-15 pieces. What can I do to fix this?

 

[RL1100 Index Misaligned]

Looks like the over-travel screw on the rear needed to be loosened. Thanks for the support.

[RL1100 Index Misaligned]

On 1/23/2023 at 10:41 AM, ddc said:

If this is something that has been gradually occurring more and more often then it MIGHT be an issue with the eccentric drive stop adjustment at the rear of the main frame or just an accumulation of gunk. The press may just need a good cleaning.

See Chapter 9 in the manual for adjustment.

The manual implies that this item is preset and shouldn't need adjustment. I have found that to not be true.

 

If this is something that has come on suddenly then it is probably due to something interfering with the indexing.

 

How many rounds do you have through the machine?

When was the last time it was cleaned and lubricated?

 

This needs to be figured out. Forcing the indexing to complete by virtue of the index pin is not a recipe for success.

 

Some things that can cause an indexing problem:

1. The index roller bolt #13086 is subject to getting bent. It may not be obvious to the naked eye.

2. Similarly the index lever bolt #13276 can get bent.

3. The index ball and spring can get gunked up. They need to be kept clean.

4. The index lever pawl might need replacing after an extended period of time.

5. The lock ring #20311 can be too tight.

 

Probably some other things that don't come immediately to mind...

Thanks for the info. This is brand new. It has less than 200 rounds through it. 

[RL1100 Index Misaligned]

New to the RL1100. The shellplate was previous aligned, however I manually moved it, which I learned from... Now every time I have the handle in the up position after completing a stage, the shell plate looks like this (not aligned with stage). When I pull the handle down thereafter, it promptly corrects as the two large pins go into the shell plate. I've tried manually correcting this, but the shell plate now continues to land like shown in the picture after a completed pull of the handle. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[RL1100 Crushed Brass at Primer Stage]

I'm new to the RL1100. Often, I get some crushed brass in stage 4, I believe before brass is primed. This smashed brass locks the shell plate and does not index for good reason. Looking for suggestions as why this might be. Thanks!

 

[What Dillon 550 Part is this?]

1 hour ago, ltdmstr said:

cartridge collection bin bracket (pn 13803)

 

Thanks!

[Disable RL1100 Swaging?]

5 minutes ago, ddc said:

 

Probably a number of options...

You could have a dedicated decapping die in station 2 and then a dedicated sizing die (no decapper) in the swage station.

You could have your normal sizing/decapper in station 2 and put a dedicated expanding/flare die in the swage station.

I'm sure somebody will chime in with some others.

 

 

Thanks for the insight here. What are the pros of doing each?

[Disable RL1100 Swaging?]

I'm not seeing much 45ACP brass to swage on my RL1100. What die(s) can I substitute in this swage stage?

[What Dillon 550 Part is this?]

I found this part in my old 550B box in the attic. I've looked around, but cannot find what this part is / part number. Looks to be like a spent primer slide? Is the an add-on or 550B, not 550C part?

 

[Dillon Swage Die Cuts Inside of Brass]

I get this funky ring around the inside of it (45 ACP) with my RL1100, which I never saw on my 550B. Thinking is this coming from the swage die. Is this a problem?

 

 

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Brand New RL1100 Stuck]

On 1/17/2023 at 12:05 PM, dillon said:

Try adjusting it this way then. Pull the machine handle down completely, then let go of the handle. Screw the detent screw in towards the ratchet tab (clockwise) until it stops.

Start to lift the handle up gently. The ratachet tab will prevent the handle from being lifted further. Slowly back the detent screw out (counterclockwise) until the handle can lift, and pull the ratchet tab against the ratchet teeth. Make sure the ratchet stays rearward until the end of the upstroke. There will be a point at which the ratchet tab cycles correctly.

 

I tried this --> Start to lift the handle up gently. The ratachet tab will prevent the handle from being lifted further. Slowly back the detent screw out (counterclockwise) until the handle can lift, and pull the ratchet tab against the ratchet teeth.

 

I've screwed the detent screw all the way counter-clockwise and the ratchet tab never goes to another ratchet tooth, thus not allowing the full stage to complete.. Its been ~8 days and still cant figure this out. The only way to enable the press to do one full cycle is by removing the ratchet tab. 

[Brand New RL1100 Stuck]

1 hour ago, IVC said:

Either way, removing ratchet should be an informed decision and not something you do because you can't adjust it. First, make it work. Then, load ammo with the press the way it's designed. Only then consider modifications if you don't like what you have, or if you think you'll make it better. 

agreed, I want this feature to work as it should rather removing it. Thanks

[Brand New RL1100 Stuck]

1 hour ago, dillon said:

 

I tried this, eventually turning the screw all the way to the left and right using 1/8th increments. This didn’t work. 

[Brand New RL1100 Stuck]

I just unboxed my RL1100, assembled it, and ran one piece of brass through it, which got stuck on the swaging stage. Now every time I pull the handle down and then up 1/8th it gets stuck. What I am referring to stuck is the ejector tab hits and sticks on the very first tooth of the on toolhead ratchet. This will not allow me to fully move the handle all the way up. I've called Dillon. The technical rep said the ejector tab or the detent screw set might be defunct and will replace the ejector tab/detent screw set. We went over each of these pieces and it appears there is nothing wrong with each piece, so I don't feel like this solved anything. Might the be another issue that is not allowing the ejector tab to move over the teeth without getting stuck?

 

 

[45 Small Primer Brass vs Large Primer - 1911 Not Cycles]

On 1/7/2023 at 3:37 PM, Farmer said:

If you notice that the WLP  primer is for regular and magnum loads, whereas there is separate Reg & Magnum for small WSP. Maybe try a mag or small rifle primer. I do know that a WLP is hotter than a CCI or Fed std LP primer. 

 

Good idea. Ill try this out. 

[Which Press to Buy? Upgrading from the Dillon 550B]

Just purchased the RL1100 in 45. Thanks for the recommendations. The reason why I went with the 1100 over the Mark 7 Apex is Dillons commitment to customer service. I had a few problems with my 550 press in December and Dillon sent me free parts and tools to get it working. Dillons $40 investment turned into a $2500 sale. 

[45 Small Primer Brass vs Large Primer - 1911 Not Cycles]

Working with my Dillon 550 for 45 and I tested out 30-40 small primer 45 rounds at the range this week. All but 2 rounds cycled in my LBC properly. 

Load data: Berry's 185 SWC, range(3.9, 4.0, 4.1) WST, 1.185 OAL, light crimp, range brass and small Winchester primers.

I have no issues with this load using large pistol primers. 

Any thoughts why this might be?

[Are these Dillon Rifle Carbide or Steel Dies?]

8 hours ago, dillon said:

DIllon makes carbide size dies in 223, 308, 30-06, 300 Blackout.  Case lube is still mandatory. The primary reason for them is die longevity. A carbide bottleneck size die is typically good for 900,000+ cases before wear becomes an issue. The cases also size with noticeably less effort, as the interiors are polished to a higher degree than steel die interiors. It used to be these were primarily sold to commercial loaders, but nowadays many more shooters are reloading in large quantities. 

 

So is this kit Dillon 10096 or 10839? Dillon has this listed differently under carbide rifle die set (10096) and steel rifle die set (10839).

[Are these Dillon Rifle Carbide or Steel Dies?]

The instructions show a "carbide expander ball" for this Dillon 223 die set, does this make it a carbide or steel set? Looks like Dillon makes either carbide and steel rifle sets. I'm a pistol shooter so not sure here. Thanks!

 

 

Also, the label on the box just says, "Progressive Die Set", "223 Remington". 

[Which Press to Buy? Upgrading from the Dillon 550B]

On 12/31/2022 at 9:45 AM, Furrly said:

How many rounds are you firing a month?? 

 

1,500

 

On 12/31/2022 at 3:54 PM, Joe4d said:

interested in the 550

 

 

It's on ebay at the moment.

 

Thanks for the feedback, I think I'll go with the 1100. Too bad configuration prices went up in 2023. 

[Which Press to Buy? Upgrading from the Dillon 550B]

I will be upgrading from a Dillon 550B to another press - thinking the Dillon 750, 1100, or Mark 7 Apex 10. I have been shooting two pistol calibers competitively for ten years and will continue into retirement 25 years down the road. I've had some concerns about my 550 and have spent about $200 upgrading, replacing, and repairing parts. If I upgrade to another press can I mitigate these concerns/issues:

• Variations in the bullet seating depth from 0.001" to 0.008", bullets and brass are of high quality (Zero/Hornady and Starline)
• Powder flakes spill from powder measure funnel
• Primer cup constantly snags on the shell plate about every 100 rounds and needs to be re-adjusted
• When using 45 ACP range brass, I have to really pull down hard to size. High quality brass size like butter. If I upgrade, does the machine do more work here?
• Precision is an utmost concern, I shoot competitively
• 9mm spent-primers constantly shoot out from the press
• Concerns of double powder charge
• Might want to reload for 30-06 one day

I want to spend more time dry firing and less time reloading. I've also watched just about every 750 & 1100 video out there. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. 

[Dillon 550B - Polishing Link Arms, Remove Galling]

On 12/20/2022 at 3:00 PM, dillon said:

We just use 220 and 320 grit sandpaper on a finger to smooth off the high spots in the pivot pin holes in the link arms. Clean any metal transfer off of the pin, using a scotcbrite wheel. Then clean the interior of the link arm pivot pin hole so the pin enters smoothly. Any remaining grooves become grease reservoirs. 

 

This worked. I have the press up and running like new. Thanks for the help.

[Dillon 550B - Polishing Link Arms, Remove Galling]

Good point, I've been replacing pieces of this press one at a time. This is the last on the list.. I think if I could polish this off I'd be in a good place starting fresh, but I'm not skilled in working with metal.

[Dillon 550B - Polishing Link Arms, Remove Galling]

Looks like I have plenty of adhesive wear in the left and right link arms (# 7,8), adhesive wear on each pivot pin (# 10), and possibly wear inside of the frame on the right side arm pin hole (# 1). I ordered replacement pins from Dillon, Sunday. I've thought of getting some 400 grit sandpaper and trying to remove the galling in the pivot arms, however I'm concerned I might remove the galling and the damage the parts as well. I don't have experience working with metal. Any suggestions would be helpful.