Have you done trigger work at home?

[ben b.]

Are you sure the source of your trigger weight is from the sear / hammer geometry? You can reduce your trigger weight just by adjusting the preload on the sear spring.

Given what he did, and the result, most likely the hammer is camming back. Common with oem parts. Will never be right until that gets fixed.

I'm not sure that it is sear/hammer geometry, and I do not know how to verify that. I have not tried backing off a touch with the sear spring, sounds like something I should try. If the hammer is camming, would I see some motion of the hammer during trigger pull, before it falls? I would have to check that.

The parts are probably not all OEM, the trigger and hammer were definitely put in by a bullseye smith who is local to me. I believe he buys the hammers in the raw and machines the hammers, I don't know if the sear is OEM or not. He set it up for me at ~5#, as a house/carry gun and not a game/competition gun.

This has been a productive thread for me, thanks for all of the thoughts.

Ben

[earplug]

A good metal working vice. Even one from Harbor frieght will work wonders for stoning a sear or hammer.

Use good light and some white paper behind the parts to see the alignment with your stone.

I have found that replaceing the pins on my Springfield 1911 with Ed Brown pins worked wonders. If you have any slop in the parts consider replacing pins.

And my drop in C&S kit needed much internal work on my Springfield frame. Rough frame finish caused drag.

[lucasb67]

I bought on brownells website a marvel ultimate jig and a stones set with ceramic one ... I have spent much time to learn, but now I can do a good job on all system colt triggers

settings of a trigger is simple if you know the effects of all parts in a trigger ... also good parts are needed for a good job

in my competition standard/limited gun I have a two pounds trigger with a personal set up, more than 25000 rounds through

Edited January 5, 2010 by lucasb67

[ben b.]

Update: I just changed back to the 19# mainspring. Problem solved. I also bought a 17# mainspring for comparison.

I am interested in what can be done to decrease muzzle flip in Single Stack/Limited guns. I still don't understand how "felt recoil and/or muzzle flip" is changed by the interaction between mainspring, recoil spring, and FPS geometry. I have not read or heard any cogent explanation that made sense, at least not to me. Anyone aware of a source or have a clear understanding of these matters? I've read the springs threads and it all sounds like subjective preference to me.

It seems to me that: 1. the slide whacking at the end of rearward travel shifts the leverage and results in much of the "flip". 2. Slowing the slide down so that it does not whack so hard should help. 3. Keeping the chamber closed longer/requiring more of the recoil energy to be diverted to pushing baclk the hammer and compressing the mainspring should slow the slide velocity. Whether any of it is measurable, I know not.

Any good info on this?

[Alan550]

Another possibility for reducing muzzle flip is a tungsten guide rod. That puts unsprung weight out front that doesn't move with the slide and helps tremendously in my 1911.

Just a thought.

Alan~^~

[Singlestack]

Another possibility for reducing muzzle flip is a tungsten guide rod. That puts unsprung weight out front that doesn't move with the slide and helps tremendously in my 1911.

Just a thought.

Alan~^~

I had a tungsten guide in my 1911 for years. Last year the head broke so I stuck a stainless steel one in it. I can't tell the difference.