I've never reloaded .40

[Pro2AInPA]

I will eventually start shooting .40 to shoot Major in Limited division. I've heard a lot that reloading .40 is a lot more dangerous than 9mm and .45ACP for some reason and also more difficult? Can anyone confirm or deny this?

[G-ManBart]

I will eventually start shooting .40 to shoot Major in Limited division. I've heard a lot that reloading .40 is a lot more dangerous than 9mm and .45ACP for some reason and also more difficult? Can anyone confirm or deny this?

It's not really harder, or more dangerous, but it's much higher pressure than .45 (not 9mm) and has enough case capacity that you can put waaay too much fast powder in it and hurt something.

We tend to load faster powders, with heavy bullets, which makes our normal "Major" loads pretty high pressure. Stay away from Clays (too fast except if you have everything perfect), make sure you've got plenty of neck tension (properly resized) so you don't get setback and you should be fine.

Bullet setback is one of the biggest problems. Combine a heavy bullet with something fast like the Clays mentioned and above and you can send parts flying pretty quickly.

Also, do lots of reading here and see the combos people are using as a reference, but realize some of what we're doing is a bit off the published charts. R,

[Pro2AInPA]

I will eventually start shooting .40 to shoot Major in Limited division. I've heard a lot that reloading .40 is a lot more dangerous than 9mm and .45ACP for some reason and also more difficult? Can anyone confirm or deny this?

It's not really harder, or more dangerous, but it's much higher pressure than .45 (not 9mm) and has enough case capacity that you can put waaay too much fast powder in it and hurt something.

We tend to load faster powders, with heavy bullets, which makes our normal "Major" loads pretty high pressure. Stay away from Clays (too fast except if you have everything perfect), make sure you've got plenty of neck tension (properly resized) so you don't get setback and you should be fine.

Bullet setback is one of the biggest problems. Combine a heavy bullet with something fast like the Clays mentioned and above and you can send parts flying pretty quickly.

Also, do lots of reading here and see the combos people are using as a reference, but realize some of what we're doing is a bit off the published charts. R,

Fair enough. I use W231 for 9mm and .45ACP. Good powder for .40? I have 10 pounds of the stuff, so I hope so!

What company's resizing die is recommended to avoid setback?

Edited December 28, 2009 by Pro2AInPA

[Jman]

Reloading can be dangerous regardless of caliber. The 9mm and .40 S&W are very high pressure rounds compared the 45 ACP. Load as long as possible. Avoid the heavy bullet, super fast propellant trap. And most importantly, guard against bullet setback. Their are dozens of useful threads availble to research. I have enjoyed HSMITH posts on this and other reloading subjects. Do a search using his username particularly in the 10mm/40 Caliber sub-forum. Good stuff.

Jim

[lugnut]

This got me about 172pf:

G35 15lb recoil, 180gr Berrys Plated, 5.2g W231, WSP Primers, 1.130" COL, 45 degrees, 2/28/2009

I use a U die on all my .40 fwiw as well.

Edited December 28, 2009 by lugnut

[GrumpyOne]

I've loaded quite a few thousand 40S&W rounds using anywhere from 7.6 grains down to 5.6 grains of Alliant Power Pistol. It is essentially the same powder Winchester uses in their white box ammo. I don't know the PF (don't have a Chrono), but only the 7.6 grain rounds showed even the slightest pressure signs (slightly flattened primer). The good thing about Power Pistol is it's clean, meters well in a Dillon 550, fairly cheap, and you really can't put too much in the 40 case without knowiing it (it's pretty "fluffy"). I've used it with 165 grn FNTC FMJ's, 155 grn lead FNTC's, and 180 grn FNTC's. Check out Jeff Maass page for a ton of load info on the 40S&W, here's the link:

http://www.k8nd.com/documents/hl40sw.pdf

[calishootr]

As for dies to avoid 'set-back' the dillon's tend to undersize the brass, that will help in holding the bullet and keeping it from getting pushed deeper in the case upon feeding, as for powders, in the early days people were running clays and getting a lot of KB's...sincethen we have switched to other powders like VV n320, me personally i like the heck out of WST, clean burning, soft felt recoil(i know its subjective) and before the whole component 'crisis' it was CHEAP like 10 bucks a pound.....

[G-ManBart]

As for dies to avoid 'set-back' the dillon's tend to undersize the brass, that will help in holding the bullet and keeping it from getting pushed deeper in the case upon feeding,

I think most folks would agree that Dillon resizing dies are among the most generous and resize the case the least. I'm not sure who makes the absolute tightest normal resizing die, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was Lee. The Lee U-die is clearly tighter than any other resizing die I've seen. R,

[G-ManBart]

Fair enough. I use W231 for 9mm and .45ACP. Good powder for .40? I have 10 pounds of the stuff, so I hope so!

What company's resizing die is recommended to avoid setback?

What gun are you loading for? What press setup do you have?

231 can work, but if you're going to be loading a jacketed 180 at factory OAL, you're going to be right at max recommended making Major+ cushion. You need at least 950fps (171PF) and a tick more is a really good idea. That's exactly what Win lists as their max load (5.0gr). If you're loading longer than factory OAL you're going to have to go over book max to make the same PF, but the pressure will still be the same.

The above is all based upon Win's data. Sierra lists a load with a 180gr JHP and 5.6gr of 231 at 1000fps. Sometimes the difference is the barrel length they used, and some is just normal variation, but either way, you're not too far from max with any of these loads.

From what I've seen Lee resizing dies are about the tightest. For a little extra neck tension the Lee/EGW U-die (undersized) is .001 smaller and made with less flare in the opening so it gets a little farther down the case. R,

Edited December 28, 2009 by G-ManBart

[z40acp]

I think the thing that you need to be aware of is over all length. Although it is important with 9 and .45 it is more important with .40 because a lot of the loads shared here by the typical Limited shooter are for longer than factory OALs. A load safe at 1.200" probably isn't at 1.135". Also a long load in a barrel not setup for that can spike the pressure and be unsafe.

[Jesse Tischauser]

Please define bullet "set-back".

[Pro2AInPA]

Please define bullet "set-back".

When the bullet is pushed back further into the case when chambering a round, thus increasing the pressure when the round is fired, thus causing the gun and maybe your hands to explode.

[Pro2AInPA]

Fair enough. I use W231 for 9mm and .45ACP. Good powder for .40? I have 10 pounds of the stuff, so I hope so!

What company's resizing die is recommended to avoid setback?

What gun are you loading for? What press setup do you have?

231 can work, but if you're going to be loading a jacketed 180 at factory OAL, you're going to be right at max recommended making Major+ cushion. You need at least 950fps (171PF) and a tick more is a really good idea. That's exactly what Win lists as their max load (5.0gr). If you're loading longer than factory OAL you're going to have to go over book max to make the same PF, but the pressure will still be the same.

The above is all based upon Win's data. Sierra lists a load with a 180gr JHP and 5.6gr of 231 at 1000fps. Sometimes the difference is the barrel length they used, and some is just normal variation, but either way, you're not too far from max with any of these loads.

From what I've seen Lee resizing dies are about the tightest. For a little extra neck tension the Lee/EGW U-die (undersized) is .001 smaller and made with less flare in the opening so it gets a little farther down the case. R,

I'll be loading for a Lone Wolf G24 slide and barrel. I currently have a Lee classic cast turret press, but will be switching to a Dillon 650 soon.

I would prefer to use lead bullets if possible to keep component costs down.

Edited December 28, 2009 by Pro2AInPA

[big_kahuna]

I'll be loading for a Lone Wolf G24 slide and barrel. I currently have a Lee classic cast turret press, but will be switching to a Dillon 650 soon.

I would prefer to use lead bullets if possible to keep component costs down.

For 165 and 180 grain lead bullets in 40, I like WSF. Have tried a bunch of other powders (including 231, Universal, titegroup, WST, and some others) but WSF worked best for me. No signs of pressure at all at 175 PF. Accuracy was good. Lead smokes with every powder I've tried but WSF was less smokey than most (if that makes any sense).

WST smoked even less than WSF, but the high pressure signs made me apprehensive.

[magicald_223]

I like Universal Clays for 180 grain lead or jacketed bullet. 5.2 grains shoots very soft. This load probably won't make major depending on the gun, but it can easily be worked up. Very clean burning for the money IMO.

[pjb45]

Well, I never reloaded until recently. I do VV320 powder, any primers I can find, and generally zero or Montana Gold. I use Shuemann, Nowlin and Kart barrels. I do not have a problem with pressures etc. and I always make major with approximately 4.9 grains of VV320 and OAL ~1.175-1.90.

VV320 is more expensive. It is a very clean powder.

And I can use with my .45 and 9mm reloading also.

See where I said cleaner, that is a big plus for me.

[big_kahuna]

I like Universal Clays for 180 grain lead or jacketed bullet. 5.2 grains shoots very soft. This load probably won't make major depending on the gun, but it can easily be worked up. Very clean burning for the money IMO.

5.2 with a jacketed bullet is probably fine. 5.2 with a lead bullet could be hotter than you want.

From my old notes...

5.0 Universal, Precision Delta 180 FMJ, mean velocity 900, 162 PF

5.2 Universal, Precision Delta 180 FMJ, mean velocity 939, 169 PF.

5.4 Universal, Precision Delta 180 FMJ, mean velocity 972, 175 PF.

4.4 Universal, Bear Creek 180 lead/moly, mean velocity 883, 159 PF

4.6 Universal, Bear Creek 180 lead/moly, mean velocity 922, 166 PF

4.8 Universal, Bear Creek 180 lead/moly, mean velocity 961, 173 PF.

My guess is that 5.2 grains of Universal with a lead bullet could yield over 185 power factor. Be careful.

[magicald_223]

I really need to get a chrono! I've loaded shot over 2000 cast bullets through my Para P16 with no pressure signs.

[Pro2AInPA]

I really need to get a chrono! I've loaded shot over 2000 cast bullets through my Para P16 with no pressure signs.

Ok so I thought I'd bump this thread up. Gearing up to load .40 S&W major.

I have 1,000 pieces of once fired brass. I have a few pounds of Titegroup. I have a Lee 4 set die including the factory crimp die.

As far as what I still need:

1. Do I need one of the EGW U dies? I've read a ton after a search here people recommending them, but I'm still unclear on how to tell if I need to use it, how its used, etc etc.

2. Is the resizer die in the Lee set sufficient, or do I need a Dillon resizer?

3. I just remembered that I have 2,000 Precision Bullets moly coated 170gr bullets on hand that I got FREE a year ago or so. Can I easily make major PF with these, and if so, which powder? They specifically advise against Titegroup. If these bullets are not a good choice, what is?

4. At major PF pressures, how many times do you guys load a .40 S&W case?

Thanks!

Edited January 2, 2010 by Pro2AInPA

[Jman]

I really need to get a chrono! I've loaded shot over 2000 cast bullets through my Para P16 with no pressure signs.

Ok so I thought I'd bump this thread up. Gearing up to load .40 S&W major.

I have 1,000 pieces of once fired brass. I have a few pounds of Titegroup. I have a Lee 4 set die including the factory crimp die.

As far as what I still need:

1. Do I need one of the EGW U dies? I've read a ton after a search here people recommending them, but I'm still unclear on how to tell if I need to use it, how its used, etc etc.

I use the U die on .400 bullets only to help prevent set back

2. Is the resizer die in the Lee set sufficient, Yes or do I need a Dillon resizer? No

3. Bullet choice for .40 S&W major? I'm going to go jacketed. Will be shot through a Lone Wolf G35 barrel in a Lone Wolf G35 slide.

A stock barrel is best IMO. Lone Wolf barrels are stupid tight. Montana Gold and Zero dominate. Honorable mention to Precision Delta.

What happened to your OEM slide?

4. At major PF pressures, how many times do you guys load a .40 S&W case?

My major is 172 PF. Much lower than factory ammo. You never get all your brass back at matches. No way of telling exactly how many times they've been reloaded. You'll need to examine each one for signs of deterioration.

Thanks!

[Pro2AInPA]

I really need to get a chrono! I've loaded shot over 2000 cast bullets through my Para P16 with no pressure signs.

Ok so I thought I'd bump this thread up. Gearing up to load .40 S&W major.

I have 1,000 pieces of once fired brass. I have a few pounds of Titegroup. I have a Lee 4 set die including the factory crimp die.

As far as what I still need:

1. Do I need one of the EGW U dies? I've read a ton after a search here people recommending them, but I'm still unclear on how to tell if I need to use it, how its used, etc etc.

I use the U die on .400 bullets only to help prevent set back

2. Is the resizer die in the Lee set sufficient, Yes or do I need a Dillon resizer? No

3. Bullet choice for .40 S&W major? I'm going to go jacketed. Will be shot through a Lone Wolf G35 barrel in a Lone Wolf G35 slide.

A stock barrel is best IMO. Lone Wolf barrels are stupid tight. Montana Gold and Zero dominate. Honorable mention to Precision Delta.

What happened to your OEM slide?

4. At major PF pressures, how many times do you guys load a .40 S&W case?

My major is 172 PF. Much lower than factory ammo. You never get all your brass back at matches. No way of telling exactly how many times they've been reloaded. You'll need to examine each one for signs of deterioration.

Thanks!

Thanks for the info. As far as what happened to my OEM slide, I don't have one. I currently own a G17. The plan is to run the Lone Wolf G35 slide on that frame to shoot .40 S&W.

As far as your recommendation to use a factory barrel. I updated that post a bit ago to state that I happen to have over 2,000 Precision Bullets moly coated bullets on hand that I'd like to try. Those aren't safe in a factory Glock barrel, are they?

Edited January 2, 2010 by Pro2AInPA

[Jman]

As far as your recommendation to use a factory barrel. I updated that post a bit ago to state that I happen to have over 2,000 Precision Bullets moly coated bullets on hand that I'd like to try. Those aren't safe in a factory Glock barrel, are they?

You will have a devil of a time cycling .401 bullets in the LW barrel. Precision moly should work just fine in your OEM barrel. Check for excessive leading regularly. Dozens of members here and elsewhere have shot many many thousands with excellent results. If all you have is the Lone Wolf barrel ship it back to have the chamber opened up a bit. Send them some dummy rounds with your componets (no primer or powder) so they have something to gauge with. They will do this for little $.

Here is a statement from Precision in regards to Glocks....

Q: Can I use Precision Bullets in my Glock?

A: Yes and No. We have many Glock shooters using Precision Bullets in factory Glock barrels with great results. However, I tell all Glock shooters it is try and see. If you have tried plated bullets and accuracy was good without keyholing, then ours should be fine. If you have tried traditional cast lead bullets and accuracy was good after 200+ rounds without heavy fouling, then our bullets will work fine and shoot a lot cleaner.

If your Glock won’t shoot Precision Bullets, then it will have problems fast—heavy fouling in 50 to 100 rounds, very poor accuracy, keyholing, etc. Then you will have to stick with jacketed bullets. However, this is very rare.

Jim

[Pro2AInPA]

As far as your recommendation to use a factory barrel. I updated that post a bit ago to state that I happen to have over 2,000 Precision Bullets moly coated bullets on hand that I'd like to try. Those aren't safe in a factory Glock barrel, are they?

You will have a devil of a time cycling .401 bullets in the LW barrel. Precision moly should work just fine in your OEM barrel. Check for excessive leading regularly. Dozens of members here and elsewhere have shot many many thousands with excellent results. If all you have is the Lone Wolf barrel ship it back to have the chamber opened up a bit. Send them some dummy rounds with your componets (no primer or powder) so they have something to gauge with. They will do this for little $.

Here is a statement from Precision in regards to Glocks....

Q: Can I use Precision Bullets in my Glock?

A: Yes and No. We have many Glock shooters using Precision Bullets in factory Glock barrels with great results. However, I tell all Glock shooters it is try and see. If you have tried plated bullets and accuracy was good without keyholing, then ours should be fine. If you have tried traditional cast lead bullets and accuracy was good after 200+ rounds without heavy fouling, then our bullets will work fine and shoot a lot cleaner.

If your Glock won’t shoot Precision Bullets, then it will have problems fast—heavy fouling in 50 to 100 rounds, very poor accuracy, keyholing, etc. Then you will have to stick with jacketed bullets. However, this is very rare.

Jim

Just remembered - doesn't shooting .40 in factory barrels lead to the KBs we see due to the non-fully supported chamber? Are the Bar-Sto barrels as overly tight as the Lone Wolf models?

I'm thinking the idea of using the LW barrel and sending them dummy rounds so that they can open up the chamber might be the best idea.

[Jman]

Just remembered - doesn't shooting .40 in factory barrels lead to the KBs we see due to the non-fully supported chamber? Are the Bar-Sto barrels as overly tight as the Lone Wolf models?

No. Double charges of powders like Tightgroup and bullet set back are the primary reasons of KB's. Not the barrel design. Glock has tightened up their .40 chambers significantly in

the last 10 years. KKM and Bar-Sto make fine replacement Glock barrels. Neither in my opinion are "better" than OEM.

Your questions are good ones. And all have been answered at length in hundreds of posts over the last 10+ years. Experiment with the forums incredible search engine. It's all here.

Jim