xsniper Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 I am about to begin loading some rounds to practice for a hopefull run at going to Columbia this spring . In the distant past I shot 115 JHP in my 38 super loads. I got some 115 CMJ from Montana Gold and they were fine until the 50 yard line and then opened up a bunch . I am about to order some new bullets and wondered if 115's JHP or 124's JHP seem to give the best results these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 I use Sierra 115 gr JHP's. If you don't want to go that route then I would suggest the Zero 115 JHP. Get your velocity up to 1150 and see what you have. I have seen some barrels shoot Zero's only after they are dirty(200-300 rounds). When cleaning the barrel only the chamber is brushed. Use patches and solvent in the rest of the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Kevin is spot on. I use 115gr JHP in Open and 125gr JHP in Metallic. Because my guns shoot those better. I have used the MG 115gr JHP and they work real well. Get some of each 115gr, get them loaded to 1150 and see what happens. If you want to go to 125gr then I am more familiar with the Zero than anything else. My daughters Open gun shoots them the best at teh moment, after a tune up early next year we will see what has changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorcycle_dan Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Equipment for the Cup. 9mm vs 38 Spec. I had pretty much decided to shoot my 6" revolver. I supposed that my standard .38 special load would make power factor no problem. It was cold out today hoovering about freezing. Ran some .38 special across the chrono and found I need to push them a little harder. One cylinder full had a PF of 121, the second cylinder averaged 119. Too close for me. I have to pick up my G34 next week. I may go back and see if I can get it to shoot accurate at 50 yd. I'm still not convinced I need to use the revolver but will have to do some practice with both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Dan, You have the time to determine what is going to suit you best, between the Special and the Glock. I would ease the 38Special load up .2gr (should = 30-50fps), you need to be no lower than 125pf. First time up at the Cup there will be little difference for you overall. You just have to be comforatble. Back when Stock Gun was around, I had to change from an Auto to a revolver 3months out from the 1999 Worlds, it was a disaster. I reckon I dumped 250points of my usual scores straight off and I never really got it back in time. Mover and plates really killed it for me. Mentally you have to be comfortable, the two guns will probably outshoot you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 So is 1150fps the magic number? What's a good velocity for the 124? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorcycle_dan Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 velocity for the 124? I think magic number is 1000~1050 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Ok. Thats about what I was thinking after reading some other posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 QUOTE (DWFAN @ Dec 28 2009, 12:29 AM) velocity for the 124? I think magic number is 1000~1050 .I get as close to 1000fps as the gun will allow me. But never over 1050fps As long as the gun goes 100%, a little more to ensure reliability is not a bad thing. But don't go insane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allgoodhits Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 (edited) Equipment for the Cup. 9mm vs 38 Spec. I had pretty much decided to shoot my 6" revolver. I supposed that my standard .38 special load would make power factor no problem. It was cold out today hoovering about freezing. Ran some .38 special across the chrono and found I need to push them a little harder. One cylinder full had a PF of 121, the second cylinder averaged 119. Too close for me. I have to pick up my G34 next week. I may go back and see if I can get it to shoot accurate at 50 yd. I'm still not convinced I need to use the revolver but will have to do some practice with both. My opinion is that you will shoot both somewhat equally on the most of the match. Most being 15, 20 & 25 yds. Some things to consider other than just accuracy, or just one of the events. Some strings that stand out as possibly troublesome with one, maybe both guns. Practical : Weak hand only string at 10 yds, the 3 and 3 string at 25 yds and the entire 50 yd line. Barricade : Just plain difficult with metallic sight guns at 25 & 35 yds. Maybe a slight edge to the revo. Mover : Hard to suggest, but I'd give an edge to the revo, because it may slow you down and work the trigger. Plates : Just plain tough with metallic sights at 20 & 25 yds. Give 'em both a shot. Personally, if you are revo man, shoot the revolver and just grip the hell out of it and keep the trigger moving no matter what the sights are doing. The 10 ring is huge, you can't miss..... MJ Edited December 29, 2009 by Allgoodhits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorcycle_dan Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 So I'm getting some time to do some load work up on 9mm. Got Montana Gold 124gr CMJ and running 700x powder. 4.0 grains was still over 1100 fps. I'm going to try 3.8 tomorrow. Starting to get worried about cycling the the slide fully. Is there a method of reducing the recoil spring on a Glock? Can I disassemble the captured spring then "re-capture" it with the new spring? Or does somebody like wolf sell slightly reduced recoil spring assemblies? Option "B" can I just cut a coil or two off the stock G34 spring without dis-assembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Pistolero Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 So I'm getting some time to do some load work up on 9mm. Got Montana Gold 124gr CMJ and running 700x powder. 4.0 grains was still over 1100 fps. I'm going to try 3.8 tomorrow. Starting to get worried about cycling the the slide fully. Is there a method of reducing the recoil spring on a Glock? Can I disassemble the captured spring then "re-capture" it with the new spring? Or does somebody like wolf sell slightly reduced recoil spring assemblies?Option "B" can I just cut a coil or two off the stock G34 spring without dis-assembly? Obviously you don't have a Brownell's catalog. You really need to get one. I wouldn't cut your existing spring. Brownell's sells guide rods and reduced power springs. Will the slide lock back when the mag is empty? Are you running highcap mags to capacity? Another thing to look at is have you tried warming the ammo and trying it? Winter is not the ideal time to work up a load. Why 700x? What kind of standard deviation did you get? Did you try 231 or tightgroup? I know it's alot of questions but now is the time to get this ironed out. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorcycle_dan Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Did manage to run the ammo across the chrono. VERY Happy with the results. I kept the loaded mags in my pocket to keep them warm. 8 rounds average 1052 fps. Standard deviation is 14.3 It did function but the empties did not fly far. I did not try to load the magazines to full capacity. My thought was to put in a slightly less powerful recoil spring. With Glock they are captured, I don't want to violate the spirit or letter of the NRA AP production rules. Wasn't sure an aftermarket guide rod would be allowed. Does Tom have a ruling? is changing guide rods allowed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Dan, Letter of the law is internals mods are allowed. But must be with factory available parts, BUT Wolff is a factory. I would email Tom direct pronto and see what the rules committeee / referees think. I think making the gun run safely and reliably are sensible. The loads themselves sound fine at 1050fps. If you have to sqeeze it up a littel to ensure reliable function on weakhand I would. Check your weakhand with a dirty gun just to ensure you are sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorcycle_dan Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Check your weakhand with a dirty gun Actually I did all the chrono work up shooting weak hand only. Makes it easier to jot down the velocities. And it makes me learn to shoot better weak hand. Those stupid sun shades are expensive, Don't want to put a round through one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spangler Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Check your weakhand with a dirty gun Actually I did all the chrono work up shooting weak hand only. Makes it easier to jot down the velocities. And it makes me learn to shoot better weak hand. Those stupid sun shades are expensive, Don't want to put a round through one Also my first year to the cup. I'm fortunate enough to have Alan550 and ActionPistolero close by to help. I'm shooting a 9mm metallic and use 115 and 124 Montana gold JHP. One of the best pieces of advice I got... make up a lot of variations of both... Sight your gun in at 50 yards...choose the MOST accurate load you have..THEN shoot the chrono to make sure it makes PF. Accuracy is the key priority. Helped me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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