outline steps to reload crimped .223 brass

[davester00]

Hello everyone.

As you could tell I'm new here so please be gentle cause I'm sensitive.

I am new to reloading and would like to start reloading .223 PMC brass on my 550b in the next year or so.

Before I start to buy the power and bullets I would like to know how to process my PMC .223 brass.

What steps are involved because I understand that this brass is crimped.

Would I ?

Tumble

Lube cardboard box

deprime 550b

resize 550b

trim 1200b mounted on 550b

swage super swage 600

de-bur,chamfer, clean primer pocket RCSB trim mate

re tumble

Now would I be ready to reload?

re-prime

powder fill

seat bullet?

As you could see I need help. Please post comments or links that would get me ready to reload or a least process my PMC brass.

Thanks in advance.

Dave

[Chills1994]

Welcome to the forums, first off.

Second, this seems to be about the 3rd or 4th time this topic has come up just this week alone.

I chime in when I can on these threads, but I think my post here in this thread sums it up fairly well:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...6&hl=possum

I will be back in a second.

Edited December 11, 2009 by Chills1994

[Chills1994]

Okay, in that link above where I posted in the red font.

At step 7 is where I mentioned something about deburring the primer crimps.

Now... don't hold me to this just yet...as like the gospel truth and carved in stone... but I have heard that a handheld chamfering/deburring tool like this one:

Just twisted back and forth by hand will remove the crimp.

At least that is what I have heard...

I am still working on my once fired R-P civilian brass. I have a box of NATO headstamped brass somewhere...

As far as trimming goes, I like the Possum Hollw Kwick Case Trimmers. You can watch the video here:

You can also get a hex shanked adapter that the PHKCT's can fit into. The adapter will also hold a chamfering/deburring tool like pictured above:

So I am thinking that while you have your drill out and the chamfering tool chucked into the adapter, you might as well try it on the primer crimps too.

RCBS also makes a trimmer tool that will remove the crimps:

http://images.cabelas.com/is/image/cabelas...in-Medium$

It might be cheaper than the Dillon swaging tool.

Or since you already have chamfering/deburring tool already... that might be cheaper still.

[Graham Smith]

There are indeed a number of recent posts, I'm also new to rifle reloading so I've been following them as well. Just mosey over to the Reloading/Rifle section and you'll find several recent. For example: this one. Also do a search for "crimp" and you'll find a lot more.

[marmax]

The only thing I would add is after your last tumble, before you reprime, I clean the primer pocket so as to make sure no media is stuck in the flash hole. I use a little metal brush on my dremel and it is fairly quick. Also run a brush inside the case because once in a while a glob of media will stick inside the case. Its extra work but worth it in the end for quality control.

[rdinga]

This is how I do it:

Using once fired Lake City brass:

Step 1-Clean and tumble brass. Inspect for Cracks, dings, damaged cases.

Step 2-Lube all cases with dillon lube

Step 3-Resize/deprime using redding small base resizing die

Step 4-Tumble again to remove case lube

Step 5-Remove crimp on Dillon crimp removing tool

Step 6-Trim all cases to same length using Giraud case trimmer. Once you have one, you will wonder how you ever made it without one.

Step 7-Now you are ready to run the processed cases through the dillon 550 at warp speed. I use Ramshot Tac because it meters very well and gives excellent results in the AR.

So go forth and reload and then shoot some.

Edited December 13, 2009 by rdinga

[Ray_Z]

This is how I do it:

Using once fired Lake City brass:

Step 1-Clean and tumble brass. Inspect for Cracks, dings, damaged cases.

Step 2-Remove crimp on Dillon crimp removing tool

Step 3-Lube all cases with dillon lube

Step 4-Resize using redding small base resizing die

Step 5-Tumble again to remove case lube

Step 6-Trim all cases to same length using Giraud case trimmer. Once you have one, you will wonder how you ever made it without one.

Step 7-Now you are ready to run the processed cases through the dillon 550 at warp speed. I use Ramshot Tac because it meters very well and gives excellent results in the AR.

So go forth and reload and then shoot some.

I think you'd have to lube and size the brass before removing the primer crimp.

I'm a believer in swedging the crimp back instead of removing metal from the case.

Edited December 13, 2009 by Ray_Z

[chendersby]

The only thing I would add is after your last tumble, before you reprime, I clean the primer pocket so as to make sure no media is stuck in the flash hole. I use a little metal brush on my dremel and it is fairly quick. Also run a brush inside the case because once in a while a glob of media will stick inside the case. Its extra work but worth it in the end for quality control.

Dillon makes a universal decapping die for rifle. put that where the sizing die goes and it will take care of the flashholes without adding an extra step.

[Putty]

This is how I do it with Giraud Trimmer that trims and chamfers in one act.

1) Tumble Brass

2) Lube with hornaday one-shot

3) Size and de-prime. Set Sizing die as per case gauge ( I use a JP rifles case gauge with Wylde chamber). I set up my sizer on the 1050 and use the one stage to do this.

4) Trim and Chamfer on Giraud

5) while trimming check for dented brass, discard.

6) Clean primer pockets with steel brush (RCBS), check for dented brass, discard.

7) Clean lube off brass by rolling brass on cotton rags soaked with rubbing alcohol

8) utlizing sized .223 shell cut in half, adjust swager on 1050 and expander die to adequately remove crimp on all rounds.

9) Reload once OAL, Powder load, primer depth and crimp set on test rounds. I barely crimp on the bullet cannelure to avoid overpressure.

10) Case gauge all loaded bullets.

[jmurch]

I don't use my super swage as the primer pockets seem to get loose after three or four firings. Plus the tool I use is much faster IMO: http://www.cabelas.com/p-0002928210622a.shtml Too many steps per case using the Dillon. One or two twists and this tool cuts out the crimp nicely.

One other trick I've learned from years of reloading is instead of buying lube order one 4oz bottle of 100% lanolin on ebay. Go to CVS and buy one 16oz bottle of 99% rubbing alcohol. Do not get 91% or 75% rubbing alcohol as the lanolin seperates. 99% is there I think CVS and Safeway have it. Mix the two together in a spray bottle and you have geat case lube for about 10,000 cases. Total cost is around $5.

Jeff

edited for clarity

Edited December 14, 2009 by jmurch

[Duane Thomas]

Do not get 91 or 75 as the lanolin seperates. 99% is there

I don't understand this part of your message.

[njl]

I don't use my super swage as the primer pockets seem to get loose after three or four firings. Plus the tool I use is much faster IMO: http://www.cabelas.com/p-0002928210622a.shtml Too many steps per case using the Dillon. One or two twists and this tool cuts out the crimp nicely.

Are you sure about that link? That appears to be the wrong tool. Wouldn't this be the right tool for removing military crimp?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=574821

I'm still debating buying the RCBS trim mate case prep center or the Dillon SS600. The RCBS will do more things than the Dillon...but I don't know if I want to cut vs swage, and the RCBS crimp removal tool has mixed reviews with some saying the tool dulls quickly and becomes unusable.

[yukondave]

I swage it with a Dillon Super Swage, it is quiet, and quick. I can do it while watching the idiot box.

I recommend breaking out the prep as much as possible.

Edited December 14, 2009 by yukondave

[jmurch]

91 and 75 are other strengths that rubbing alcohol comes in. You want 99%. It's a bit harder to find.

The link I posted for the tool is correct for the tool that I use. It removes the crimp to the minimum necessasary to get the primer seated at the same time cleaning and squaring the primer pocket.

Jeff

[njl]

91 and 75 are other strengths that rubbing alcohol comes in. You want 99%. It's a bit harder to find.

The link I posted for the tool is correct for the tool that I use. It removes the crimp to the minimum necessasary to get the primer seated at the same time cleaning and squaring the primer pocket.

Jeff

Are you using it on a trim mate?

[Graham Smith]

First, gather the following tools:

No offense, but remind me never to borrow any reloaded ammo from you. I still have need of my face, eyes and hands, thank you very much.

Edited December 14, 2009 by Graham Smith

[jmurch]

NJL,

No I have a handle for it and twist it by hand. I can do about 12 cases per min.

Jeff

[saibot]

I don't use my super swage as the primer pockets seem to get loose after three or four firings....

Just let me know if you need me to take it off of your hands!

Edited December 19, 2009 by saibot