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Skydiver

Tips for Fitting the Flat Trigger

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If Henning is going to make new parts, the roller could be moved the trigger bar and have the flat surface on the plunger head.

I think a "C" shaped leaf spring (pivoted on both sides)from the plunger to the trigger bar could also work and would elimate the 2 mating surfaces.

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I purchased the whole 9 yards from Henning, flat trigger, EGW hammer & sear and the new pin kit, I have installed them all and spent quite a lot of time polishing everything to a mirror finish, and in dry fire it all works perfectly but during live fire yesterday no reset, bummer :unsure: , after reading the previous posts again I may ned a little more pre tavel? I'll try that first if that fails I'll look for a stronger trigger spring, any other suggestions. Otherwise I'm totally happy and satisfied with this system I reckon i've had the trigger in and out about 30+ times whilst setting it all up and it is just so easy compared to the old trigger, I think I could do it blind folded now, Awsome job Henning,.

When the time comes to redesign the plunger, I think it also needs some modification where it sits in the frame, as mine seems to have quite a bit of slop, when you pull the trigger this slop is taken up before the trigger bar moves on the plunger, and I'm guessing this is not ideal, possibly an over sized plunger body where by you have to ream or drill the frame for a nice tight fit, just a thought.

I can't thank everyone enough for there posts regarding the flat trigger, the information has been brilliant :cheers:

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I had to go with a stronger spring on my limited. I found my own which has a bit larger inner diameter so it doesn't rub on the set screw. If you need to go this route I think henning is planning to offer more than 1 spring type. I've actually bumped mine up to an .020 spring with no noticable change in trigger pull and get a nice crisp reset now.. Love this trigger!!!!

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Actually, less surface area between contacts will increase friction. Friction (or more appropriately 'Force due to friction') = Force / Area. More surface to bear the load will result in lower wear and less friction. Problem with the stock bar and plunger is that they are rough, and even after polishing, they still only contact in a very small area and are very hard to match the curve of the surfaces to each other and maintain that contact. The ball bearing would allow a nice hard low-wear surface, but it will probably eat the trigger bar alive - you'll have a track worn in in no time, along with a nice dent from the trigger bar bouncing up and down from reseting. The trigger bar's surface would have to be just as hard to prevent this, or a larger bearing surface implemented, like the roller plunger H is speaking of.

Good points! Thanks for the info.

Sorry to revive an old thread but all my searches on Google for "Does surface area affect force of friction" all seem to say that friction is not affected by surface area.

What am I missing?

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Pics of my Match .40:

post-10187-1259014515_thumb.jpg post-10187-1259014551_thumb.jpg

The tail end of the trigger bar where I did some grinding:

post-10187-1259014565_thumb.jpg

My reworked plunger:

post-10187-1259014592_thumb.jpg

(Sorry about the photo quality. Focusing problems... It may explain all my misses on close targets. :-) )

How did you attach that well?

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Pics of my Match .40:

post-10187-1259014515_thumb.jpg post-10187-1259014551_thumb.jpg

The tail end of the trigger bar where I did some grinding:

post-10187-1259014565_thumb.jpg

My reworked plunger:

post-10187-1259014592_thumb.jpg

(Sorry about the photo quality. Focusing problems... It may explain all my misses on close targets. :-) )

How did you attach that well?

I used J.B.Weld.

Doing the quick drying with a light bulb makes a brittle bond. I had to redo the work after about 2 months of 2 matches a week. Going with the slow cure is the way to go. Although after going from summer to winter and then back to summer again, I'm starting to feel a little bit of movement. I think it was the quick temperature changes from home, to car trunk, to range, and then back again.

When I next get to the point of it falling off again, I plan on cleaning all the interfaces and then doing some soldering (ala the way pipes are soldered).

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I installed the flat trigger three weeks ago on a brand new limited. I did a polish job and watched as many videos as I could find. But range trip after range trip I constantly got multiple failure to resets after every combination of adjustment. I keep disasemlibg and polishing nothing ever worked. Next step was to replace with a larger trigger return spring.  Then one day it just started working, quickly discovered the problem was magazines.  I have 12 magazines 10 were from my old circa 2002 gold team two new ones.  The newer ones have a notch cutout where the older ones drag against the trigger bar on the port/left side. The newer ones work and the older ones provide to much friction that the lighter return spring can't overcome. Now I will modify all the magazines to run in both guns. 

Hope this helps someone 

 

 

Edited by mcflury

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