ben b. Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I don't do much with revolvers, but I have a bunch of .38 brass, and no .38. I used to have a GP-100 that I gave to my dad, and I have not replaced. I liked it fine, but simply have few revolvers (a .45 Vaquero, a S&W 642, a S&W 1903 Hand Eject in .32 Long, and a .44 cap n ball). I'm not itching to go FULL REVO in the games or I'd get a 625, but ya never know..... So given need to work well with the best speed loaders, what are the 2 or 3 revos in .38/.357 worth consideration if buying, that would be useful as general shooters as well as IDPA/USPSA guns? I guess 686, and maybe a model 19, as well as another GP-100, but this ain't my area. Thanks for any help, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasOPM Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 The 686 is a good choice to be sure- the 686 SSR is a purpose built IDPA gun from the factory. S&W seems to be a bit more popular in that game. I think that the Ruger's are a bit rougher and harder to tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Christian Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 S&W revolvers are sort of the benchmark because they can be highly tuned. That also requires that you be highly tuned on ammo/primer selection and religious in your making sure every screw is tightened. I've had "bad days" (2006 FL State USPSA comes to mind) when the mainspring screw backed out and I got Bang, Bang, Click. The GP-100 is a step child... but I prefer it to the current S&Ws after having shot S&Ws for almost 40 years. They use a coil main spring that doesn't chane, and the only other spring you have to check is the one under the cylinder latch. They're very reliable. Ruger makes a GP-100 with an interchangeable fiber optic front sight...(you may have to call Ruger directly to order it) smooth the action parts and use a Wilson Combat spring kit (mine lights off everything with the 8# return spring and 9# mainspring... basic pull weight at 8.5 pounds... smooth as silk... and I can't short stroke the trigger with live ammo in the gun) and I prefer this gun to any current S&W. The GP-100 stages better when you need a precise 25 yard + shot, and doesn't take a back seat to any current S&W when it comes to "rolling the trigger" in rapid double taps. A smooth trigger works real well once you get the rhythm. With the jacketed loads I use I'm getting 1.75 inch full cylinder groups from a 25 yard bench rest... and with lead practice reloads it groups better than my S&W 686 (2.5 inch @25 as opposed to 4 inch). The gun also costs a lot less and uses the same speedloaders as the S&W 686. I like it. Blade Tech makes a fine holster for it. Chris Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revchuck Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Ben - I prefer the K frames. If you're trying to keep costs down, a 4" M10 would work fine. It's as accurate as the other versions, and the sights aren't as bad as some make them out to be. For a little more, a M15 or M67 (adjustable sight K frames) give you better sights. A M19 or M66 will give you a little more weight and the added assurance of a gun designed for .357 Mag pressures, in case you get a little enthusiastic with your handloads. IMO, a heavy barrel K frame is the best combination of weight and handiness for IDPA. The fact that the chambers are closer together makes speedloading easier too. I feel that the L frames are too heavy, though I really like my 681. If you want to check out the Rugers, they make (or used to, anyway) a non-full lug version of the GP-100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 First place is almost any S&W K-Frame in .38 or .357. Second place is almost any S&W L-Frame in .357. Third place is almost any other revolver. I use Comp lll speedloaders. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Somehow the numbers of wheel guns in my safe has grown since last year. For three years I played with a GP100 for my IDPA enjoyment, it served me well and was used to train countless shooters. Last year I left the club match scene and started shooting sanctioned matches. At the Indoor winter nationals I used the GP100 and took third but I got a first hand look at the 686SSR and had it delivered the next week. I'm enjoying it much better and the last two matches have been incredible with it. The best thing that I can tell you is to go to a few matches and try some out. Look further than just the gun however, look at the choices of available holsters, sights and knowledgeable gunsmiths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Bacus Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Nothing is ideal, but I think this comes pretty darn close. S&W 686SSR, Safariland holster, trimmed Jet loaders & TKW loader holders. This is my rig... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragoon Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 First place is almost any S&W K-Frame in .38 or .357. I concur! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GmanCdp Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 (edited) J frame 3 inch with adjustable sights...is what i would shoot if they made a 6 shot cylinder for one... other then that, i shoot a 586... Edited October 8, 2009 by GmanCdp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 I think you ought to borrow back that GP100 for a few matches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben b. Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 I think you ought to borrow back that GP100 for a few matches.I would, if my dad was less than an airplane ride away. The 686 JM is the easiest, smartest play for a .38 game gun, but I decided I'm not that serious about it.As it is, I always liked the Ruger's overbuilt, rugged mass and coil spring set-up, with a totally irrelevant affection for the wood-in-rubber grips of the old GP models. Add frugality to my innate tendency to paddle upstream against convention, do you see where this is going? If you guessed, say, $425 for a very good 4" GP100 with adjustables, you'd be damned perceptive. PMO & FFL outbound... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 I'm not really a Revo guy, but... I grew up with a Colt Python handy. I've casually shot some S&W guns. I got my hands on a GP100 earlier this year...if I was in the market, the Ruger is what I'd try. I shot one with the big Hogue grips on it and it pointed well and stayed on target through the trigger roll for me (most others don't). It got me researching them pretty hard. Seems like they are very well loved for their toughness and their accuracy. Ought to be a really nice "all around" 357. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlktheduk Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 No disagreements with any of the choices given so far. I use a Smith & Wesson Model 10 w/4" barrel in SSR, with Pachmayr Grippers. The main reason I use that platform is that was what I carried on duty for quite a few years. Safariland Comp III speedloaders, but I have also used HKS (I used the HKS model speedloaders on duty) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 The only hiccup with the GP100 and Hogue grips is the wieght. In SSR the limit is 42oz unloaded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueridge Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 As it is, I always liked the Ruger's overbuilt, rugged mass and coil spring set-up, with a totally irrelevant affection for the wood-in-rubber grips of the old GP models. Add frugality to my innate tendency to paddle upstream against convention, do you see where this is going? Not a suggestion, just a comment.... Paddling upstream for me is using a Ruger Alaskan loaded with .45 Colt using HKS Speedloaders. I use one in IDPA and USPSA. Due to its weight I cannot use it in SSR, and thus must shoot it in ESR (but I don't really mind). By comparison sir I would suggest that you are simply treading water, and not paddling upstream. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Benedict Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 I use several revolvers all Smiths 3" S&W 64 4" S&W 581 4" S&W 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triplesinglestack Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 model 28 S&W N frame heavy, low recoil 4" barrel for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDPMatt Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 First place is almost any S&W K-Frame in .38 or .357. Second place is almost any S&W L-Frame in .357. Third place is almost any other revolver. I use Comp lll speedloaders. Bill Bill got it right...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 I have a quite a few S&W's, K's are my favorite. However for any shooting sport the gun that recoils least while delivering the required ballistics is the one that will give highest scores. I know expert shooters have done well with K's our match tonight was won with a K frame 67 in the hands of a very good shooter. However in my opinion a beginner or mid level shooter will shoot a L frame better if it's running IDPA power factor loads. It's just a matter of weight and mass absorbing recoil. In tonights revolver only IDPA match, shot my 686 first and 2nd match not for score with a K frame M 67. Same ammo 158 gr rn loaded to just over the IDPA PF. Both run with Jetloaders. Considerable difference in the recoil gun to gun. Might be able to get the K out of the holster faster, only 4 draws in this 4 stage match. Shot to shot the L comes back on target faster, and there were 48 shots. I was just a little bit faster & more accurate with the L even though I shot the K 2nd match and had figured out the COF better by then. Difference is small but real. That's my opinion anyway. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 How could one argue with Matt MacArthur or Bill Nesbitt? They are wise. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revomodel10 Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) I would suggest you start witha simple model 10 or 64. They can be found for little money. Police trades, are often carried much, shot little. you can spend your money on bullets & practice, practice and practice some more your reloads! http://www.summitgunbroker.com/New_Standard_5.html Edited March 18, 2010 by revomodel10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben b. Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 I would suggest you start witha simple model 10 or 64. ...http://www.summitgunbroker.com/New_Standard_5.html A 4" K frame .38 at $275 is tempting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kct45acp Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I got lucky and found my 15 for 175 at a local gun shop. A friend of mine called me and I happened to have money to spend for once. I also tried both jet loader and Comp III and came to the conclusion the Comp III work best for me. a decent trigger job can still light any primer if you don't get crazy with the trigger pull, mine go at just under 9lbs and i have never had a problem with factory ammo or the wolf primers that I use unless I don't seat them all the way or I had one that didn't have any mix in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 In tonights revolver only IDPA match, shot my 686 first and 2nd match not for score with a K frame M 67. Same ammo 158 gr rn loaded to just over the IDPA PF. Both run with Jetloaders. Considerable difference in the recoil gun to gun. Might be able to get the K out of the holster faster, only 4 draws in this 4 stage match. Shot to shot the L comes back on target faster, and there were 48 shots. I was just a little bit faster & more accurate with the L even though I shot the K 2nd match and had figured out the COF better by then. Difference is small but real. So, what was the difference in your two scores? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 3 seconds 4 stage match. Downs about the same, but not same stage to stage. Nothing to learn here as any real difference probably lost in other errors. Big thing was the K frame had more felt recoil using power factor loads. In a long match with more stages probably make more difference. Of course good shooters are good shooters whatever they use. My opinion on K vs L is for beginners or mid level shooters. You can't dispute the fact that K's win a lot of matches, in fact K frame 67 won this one. Heavy is better is a rule that's pretty consistent any firearm competiton. Did you know NRA Service rifle does not have a weight limit ? Good shooters are loading AR15's with lead under the handguard and in the buttstock, 15 lb guns are not uncommon. And that's with a pipsqueak cartridge. Result is little recoil. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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