blkbrd Posted October 19, 2003 Share Posted October 19, 2003 I am getting ready to buy a hammer and sear fixture from Brownells but there is quite a few that seem like they will all work. Power Custom Series #1 or #2, Bob Marvel, Yavapai, C&C? What ones have you used and what would you buy again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 (edited) Has anyone had a good experience with the Yavapai fixture? It seems that several of you have found this fixture to be undersized. Edited September 3, 2006 by CSEMARTIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 I have a Power Custom. Not sure if I would buy another not that its not good, its great but most of the custom hammers I have been using are already cut with proper angles and only require some light fine stoning if any. I do use it on jobs where the customer dosent want to upgrade or if its a rebuild of a custom trigger job. Have not used the Yavpai fixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 I have a Power Custom Series I Stoning fixture too, but you can't really see what you're doing. The maginification using the Yavapai fixture seems like a nice way to inspect everyything when you're done.... I bought the Gene Shuey DVD series, and he uses what looks like the Yavapai fixture (item # 080-835-001). I really like the idea of looking at the hammer sear engagement at 25X. Perhaps the best way to go is the adjustable hammer/sear pin block kit (item # 080-000-115) from Brownells with a separate microscope (item # 291-000-001)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Sample Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 I use a Tom Wilson sear jig that I have had for a very long time. I have the hammer cut on a mill and then balance the sear to the hammer hooks. I have never changed the set screw after I got it right and will never touch it again. I have only found one set of parts that I use that drops in pretty nice in a decent built lower end. I have had to re work every high end "Trigger Group" that we have bought and I think they are so over rated that it's a joke. I know all the " Internet Experts" would have a lot to say about the trigger group I use (5 years now without a failure of any kind) so I won't bother to tell you what it is. I don't know of a decent trigger and sear jig out there. I am hunting one as we speak, so if anyone makes an old type like I have, I would like to know for the present Online 1911 G MAN .38 Super Class guys. We are going further into the "Art of the 1911" and I am going to teach them how I do trigger work. They are already almost there, so I will just show them how to cut a sear and do the hammer hooks. That is just a small part of what is involved in a good trigger pull. "trigger jobs take from two hours to two days." You can quote me on that one! Good luck in your search. Ed Brown's sear jig comes close, but it is round and I don't like it for that reason. I like to put them in a vice to hold them while I cut the sear. I wish I could help more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 Dave check with Bill Wilson heard somewhere he had some old sear jigs he was getting rid of. Probably bull but who knows. PM me I would like to know if your 5 year run make is the same as my 2 personal 5 + yr triggers. CS, look for an old microscope, got one about 15 yrs ago for 5 bucks, mounted a shop made hammer sear block to it and moved the light, works great, it has 10, 25 & 40X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 I use a Marvel sear jig (583-000-001) to work on the sear and a clamp & feeler gauge to work on the hammer and it seems me to work really fine and obviously a eye loupe 10X. Cheap equipment for the best result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Sample Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 (edited) A good friend of mine recently bought over the Internet an old beat up maybe GI 1911 in .45 ACP. It had a WWII slide and an Essex lower end. He needed it for an article he was writing so he paid double for it and then I got it to tweak it a little with larger sights so he could use it for a car gun. It was a typical amatuer job of parts assembly and it had a really nice trigger pull. It should have because it was only grabbing on one hammer hook and the end of the sear was rounded. The ejector was whittled on and flimsy for a GI type and not pinned. It had GI parts and shiny parts and it was a $200.00 gun at best. Now I have to find a trigger group for it and do an old fashioned trigger job on my take out parts because it is not worth $50.00 for the new group. This job is Pro Bono so here we go again. I hate going in after a no nothing has messed up a gun. The ejector holes were not drilled deep enough as one example of what you get with marginal parts. The guy that put it together had no idea of that and ground up the ejector in all the wrong places! No Common Sense and no ability to diagnose the problem before getting out his files! Hey! If it sits too high, it is the legs, stupid! Make them a little shorter! Oh well..............................................too bad so sad. Please forgive me for the rant, but I am very tired of this kind of stuff coming through the door. I wish I could say no to my pals. I suggest that instead of using jigs, you use a nice trigger group that will go in easy and give you a nice reliable, safe, trigger pull and then learn to shoot! Use a new pin set with it and do it right. Boost it a few times and then shoot it in. Good Luck on those jigs. Edited September 6, 2006 by Dave Sample Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 (edited) Do someone has experience to use Marvel trigger/sear jig (080-823-000) or Power Custom Stoning Fixture Series II (713-270-100) both sell by Brownells? and what's the best for a trigger/sear work? any suggestins will be appreciate!!!!!!! Edited September 11, 2006 by Josh Biondi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Josh, I've used the Power for years and gotten very good results with it. One advantage is you can get different adaptors for different guns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 (edited) Josh, I've used the Power for years and gotten very good results with it. One advantage is you can get different adaptors for different guns. Thanks for the input Dan! But seems to me that you can use it only with the series II stone, or not? Hey guys others experience? Edited September 11, 2006 by Josh Biondi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I have the Marvel kit, and I love it. I have no experience with the Power unit. I was going to get one and spoke to some techs at Brownells. They all stated to try the Marvel. I bought a bunch of cheapie CMC sears to practice on, and now use EGW sears in my guns after my "learning" curve . Cool thing is that it is repeatable if you need to take just that little bit extra off the secondary angle. Good luck, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjbine Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 I also have the Marvel kit. It is easy to use and setup is a breeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Marvel kit win 2-1 on Power Custom..... Please guys more opinions!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Merged threads (posts 9-14) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Josh, I was doing more than 1911's, that's why the Power. I just used 6" long india stones with it. Oh, and replaced the dowel pin to guide the stone angle with a piece of 1/4" carbide rod. It's the original Power fixture, not the series 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Come on guys more opinions please..... I need it before to choise what buy!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck-IL Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 (edited) There are 3 units on Brownell's site with Marvel's name on them ... has anyone experience with the sear and hammer model (listed last below)? The 'Ultimate' model below touts a roller guide...is this a significant feature? Marvel auto sear jig 583-000-001 Marvel Ultimate sear jig 588-000-003 Brownell's Sear and Hammer jig by Marvel 080-823-000 Any thoughts appreciated. /Bryan Edited September 12, 2006 by Canuck-IL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Come on guys more opinions please..... I need it before to choise what buy!!!! If you decide on the Power unit send me a pm, I have a hardly used one I'll sell since I shoot mostly revo's now. It's the series I If you want to do ONLY 1911's, the Marvel unit DougC talks about looks more user friendly. (boy...can I kill a sale or what ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 Did anyone notice the original date on this post? I bought the Power Custom as I was planning on doing other guns as well as 1911"s. This jig/fixture has worked great for me on 1911 hammers & sears as well as a few revolvers. It is great that you can change the sear angles by just a hair to give just the right engagement and have it repeatable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Did anyone notice the original date on this post? I bought the Power Custom as I was planning on doing other guns as well as 1911"s. This jig/fixture has worked great for me on 1911 hammers & sears as well as a few revolvers. It is great that you can change the sear angles by just a hair to give just the right engagement and have it repeatable. wow no reply's for 3 years......well I'm glad the tool worked out for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Did anyone notice the original date on this post? I bought the Power Custom as I was planning on doing other guns as well as 1911"s. This jig/fixture has worked great for me on 1911 hammers & sears as well as a few revolvers. It is great that you can change the sear angles by just a hair to give just the right engagement and have it repeatable. How did this one slip through the cracks? This is a great post by blkbrd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 There are 3 units on Brownell's site with Marvel's name on them ... has anyone experience with the sear and hammer model (listed last below)?The 'Ultimate' model below touts a roller guide...is this a significant feature? Marvel auto sear jig 583-000-001 Marvel Ultimate sear jig 588-000-003 Brownell's Sear and Hammer jig by Marvel 080-823-000 Any thoughts appreciated. /Bryan I asked about the sear&hammer jig if you read the previous post...... about the autosear jig I used it for some time and its a good jig but has the limit that you cant adjust the sear height if you wanna change it. Also it has a roller guide the difference beetwen both is the height adjiust. Hope to be help Did anyone notice the original date on this post? I bought the Power Custom as I was planning on doing other guns as well as 1911"s. This jig/fixture has worked great for me on 1911 hammers & sears as well as a few revolvers. It is great that you can change the sear angles by just a hair to give just the right engagement and have it repeatable. wow no reply's for 3 years......well I'm glad the tool worked out for you Guys I restarted the post recently..... as says better late than never Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 ...hey, Dave Sample, we REALLY want to know which parts held up so well over the "Long Haul"!!!....mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 (edited) I can't remember if I posted this on another thread, but I ended up getting the adjustable hammer/sear pin block kit (item # 080-000-115) from Brownells and a microscope (item # 291-000-001). Before I did anything, I took the hammer and sear out of my gun and looked at the engagement using the microscope. This was after I did a previous trigger job following the advice from the following link: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/N...p;t=1&i=349 I was amazed at what I saw. The hammer sear engagement was a little spooky. Instead of settting the Power Custom jig at 4 clicks for the primary angle on the sear, I set it at 14 clicks to get a nice parallel engagement between the primary angle on the sear with the hammer hooks. I also had trouble getting the jig set high enough to cut the secondary angle. In stead, I adjusted the adapter which holds the sear clockwise to get a nice secondary cut. I did this and inspected everything with the microscope. I think I got a much nicer and safer trigger job by doing this. Has anyone else found this to be the case? Edited October 6, 2006 by CSEMARTIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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