Flexmoney Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Forgive me for being a Dillon newb, still researching a new press, but I've read about this "problem" elsewhere.What type of die adjustments is required w/ this modification. Just looking at it, I'm guessing you'd have to set the dies a bit deeper, because the shell plate bolt hits the top of the press sooner. You are going to make me go look, but... I don't think your shellplate bolt hits the top of the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Had one other thot on the below the shellplate friction topic... I found that McMaster Carr has PTFE film... In fact, they have a 12" wide sheet that is adhesive backed and only .005" thick.... while you'd have to cut and or punch holes for the ball detent and the caming lever, you just might get away with something like that... Basically you cut a round piece the outside diameter of the entire shell plate are (a little larger than the shellplate), then you'put it down and then the shellplate, bearing, bolt... Only problem is it will take a beating both in compression and in turn/twist... not sure how well it would last... They also have some with out glue that is .002" thick. Not sure how to stick it. However, what I don't know is if this is even needed... I show no signs of wearing of the shell plate to the aluminum pad beneath it, so I'm thinking the only friction is from the caming lever and ball detent and there simply is no way to minimize those... Anyway, I did so some checking and found the above. YMMV, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken8521 Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Forgive me for being a Dillon newb, still researching a new press, but I've read about this "problem" elsewhere.What type of die adjustments is required w/ this modification. Just looking at it, I'm guessing you'd have to set the dies a bit deeper, because the shell plate bolt hits the top of the press sooner. You are going to make me go look, but... I don't think your shellplate bolt hits the top of the press. Usually, No.. but I thought raising it up was going to cause the bolt to hit the top of the press.. He clarified that though and said there's still about a .5in of space there... Looks like a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Heiter Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Ok, I wasn't sure how much this would help but we order stuff from McMaster-Carr all the time and I figured it was worth three bucks to find out. There isn't much room left between the top of my shell plate bolt and the tool head, but there's definitely no contact either. When you first do it, you'll find yourself watching your shell plate waiting for the jolt that occurs as the plate comes to a stop. It's kinda strange when it never comes. Hats off to Alan, this is an excellent little mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anm2_man Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I also ordered the parts. Tried them today and just as Alan said, no more snap !!! A great solution to a problem that has plagued us all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliez Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 Hmm, quick question, do you have the original (i.e. unmodified, uncut, unclipped) spring under the ball detent? If so, then did this mod work for you? I'm assuming this is what Alan and others have. If not, did this mod help any? I have a clipped spring under the ball detent, and wasn't experiencing the snap to begin with. Ordered these anyway though (curious to use with the original spring), didn't seem to help much for me (too tight and the shellplate won't move, loose enough to move and the shellplate snaps) ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pittbug Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 I have the original (unclipped) detent ball spring and will be trying it out tonight or later this weekend, since the parts arrived the other day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Hmm, quick question, do you have the original (i.e. unmodified, uncut, unclipped) spring under the ball detent?If so, then did this mod work for you? I'm assuming this is what Alan and others have. If not, did this mod help any? I have a clipped spring under the ball detent, and wasn't experiencing the snap to begin with. Ordered these anyway though (curious to use with the original spring), didn't seem to help much for me (too tight and the shellplate won't move, loose enough to move and the shellplate snaps) ??? Mine was completely unmodified. Here's what I suggest... leave your spring cut.. but put the bearing on the top as shown. Then finger tighten the bolt till it stops with *light* finger pressure. Then lock the allen screw in the side and try it... it may take just a whisker more or less tight, but that snap should stop. I would expect it would work even better on the clipped version than the full power uncut spring which I have. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Med Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) Did this mod this week and i find it very satisfying. Smooth movement throughout the cycle. I used to keep a finger on the case as it arrived at the seating station to keep it from snapping and spilling powder. No longer necessary. Very nice mod and amazing how fast McMaster can deliver stuff. Less than 24 hours from Submitting the order to my doorstep. Angel Edited June 20, 2009 by A_Med Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blazer Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Gonna give it a try myself, just ordered the parts. Thanks Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pittbug Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 I ended up installing the bearing tonight and clipping 1 coil off the detent ball spring to smooth it out just a tad more. No more powder spillage (loaded 100 rounds) and the shell plate rotates nice and smoothly. Brian should include these bearing and thrust washers in the "as it should be" kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ BAD Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Well I stopped at my local McMaster - Carr after placing a will call order and picked up the parts yesterday on the way home from work. I installed the parts and loaded about 50 rounds and had no spillage at all. Great tip Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blazer Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Just put the bearing & washers in - works like a charm. Nice and smooth, no snapping at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter hornby Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 HELP! i tired to order from McMaster's and they told me they wouldn't ship to Canada! damn it is bad enough with gun stuff but not machine parts! would someone be willing to pick me up the parts and ship it to me. i would of course reimburse you for your time and the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekno Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 they wouldn't ship to Canada! Well that made me feel a bit better (NOT), they would not ship to Norway either. (If by any chance someone attending the ERC has the possibility to bring along two sets, it would be much appreciated!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h2osport Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 they wouldn't ship to Canada! Well that made me feel a bit better (NOT), they would not ship to Norway either. (If by any chance someone attending the ERC has the possibility to bring along two sets, it would be much appreciated!) So you guys know these parts are not Mcmaster Carr specific. I think the bearings I recieved were INA brand(but I will check on Monday). You can get the sizes from the original post and probably get a local bearing and drive shop to get them for you. I will check my bearing boxes on Monday and see if they have original manuf part numbers and post. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tard Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I just ordered the parts myself. Been reloading on a SDB for 18 years, just got a new 650. Set it up for .38, .40, .45ACP initially. No problems with the .38 and .40 but in .45 the click was so strong that 10% of the time the shell sitting at station 1 would wiggle in the shell holder as I brought the press up and would move just far enough away from the center to hit the lip of the Dillon sizing die at station 1. I cleaned everything up and adjusted the shell plate tension and re-adjusted and re-centered the sizing die, now it only happens about once in 50 rounds but it doesn't happen at ALL with the other calibers. Does this right at the ball detent click. The press is very solidly mounted, no wiggle at all. So, I think this mod will eliminate the ball detent click and this problem associated with it. If not, well there is no real mod to the press and it can go back right where it was. I am looking at the UniqueTek precision machined toolheads that are clamped instead of pinned http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1333 For $35 each (650) they are a drop-in. Seems like the toolheads are a somewhat sloppy fit to the press to me. I didn't buy this press for precision reloads, I load my .308 and .44 mag on a RCBS Rock Crusher II with benchrest dies for that. Don't expect a high volume press to give me that kind of precision, but still for $35 plus this shell plate mod it seems like pretty high precision can be obtained here with hardly any time added to changing calibers. Steve Snohomish, WA USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blazer Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 The items I received were INA brand. Just went out to the shed to go through the trash and find the boxes. Part number on the box for the bearing is TC815 and the number on the washer box is TWA815. These are listed on their website - INA.com. I had to type in the whole "http://www."thing to get it. hope this helps someone. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter hornby Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 The items I received were INA brand. Just went out to the shed to go through the trash and find the boxes. Part number on the box for the bearing is TC815 and the number on the washer box is TWA815. These are listed on their website - INA.com. I had to type in the whole "http://www."thing to get it.hope this helps someone. Bob Thanks Bob. it will. if nothign else i cna cross reference it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tard Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 I got my parts today, loaded 300 rounds of .45 without a hitch. This solved my problem which was different from the powder-spilling but caused by the same thing. Still getting used to my 650+ auto shellfeeder after 18 years with a SDB, WOW I like it!! Thanks for taking the time to post all this, maybe I'll be able to return the favor one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Another satisfied customer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 All. I'm going to have a set of bearing/washers to the good... If someone can't get them from McMaster (out of country, etc)... if you'll cover my costs, I'd be happy to send them to you. I ordered a set for a freind and then found out that he ordered his own set... go figure, wish he'd have told me . Oh, well, they aren't that expensive anyway. I should have them new from MCMASTER this week. Drop me an email to message here. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekno Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Here is the Timken part # for the bearing. The only problem I can see with this one is that I didn't come up with it. thanks, jm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Good job on this one Alan - and it looks real well received. At some point I may move it (and leave it linked and maybe pinned here) to the Reloading FAQs Subforum. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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