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.223 reloads hard to eject [ar-15..by hand] ?


yarbsea

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Wow that is impressive. I've seen a dozen or so extractors bend due to over pressure but never seen one snap clean off like that. My guess is you had an over charged round or an out of battery detonation.where the bolt wasn't fully engaged. Either way clean your chamber meticulously and check for damage to your receiver.

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19 minutes ago, CPD7119 said:

Wow that is impressive. I've seen a dozen or so extractors bend due to over pressure but never seen one snap clean off like that. My guess is you had an over charged round or an out of battery detonation.where the bolt wasn't fully engaged. Either way clean your chamber meticulously and check for damage to your receiver.

 

I did replace the upper😕

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Now, I have a new complete upper 10.5" with 1/7 twist rate and MPI tested bolt.

I shoot it yesterday and the following are the results:

 

1. I warmed up the barrel by shooting 5 rounds.

2. Cleaned the barrel

3. Then went for zeroing:

    3.1 First shot is dead on (after trying to zero the upper)

     3.2 the second and succeeding shot is lower left

    3.3 Tried to cool down the barrel and shoot again, the result is the same

 

What is seems to be the problem now?

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The first couple shots from a clean barrel often have a different POI than succeeding rounds. That's normal. The solution is to make sure any serious shots happen in a fouled barrel. 

 

Same goes for a cold bore shot, expect the POI to be a little different than subsequent shots from a warm barrel. 

Those things don't indicate a problem with the gun, that's just part of learning your rifle and where it hits. 

 

Also, excessive cleaning is not necessary or helpful. If you're one of those guys who cleans the barrel every time you use the gun, you'll need to plan on working around a few fouling shots every time you shoot it again. 

 

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1 hour ago, Yondering said:

The first couple shots from a clean barrel often have a different POI than succeeding rounds. That's normal. The solution is to make sure any serious shots happen in a fouled barrel. 

 

Same goes for a cold bore shot, expect the POI to be a little different than subsequent shots from a warm barrel. 

Those things don't indicate a problem with the gun, that's just part of learning your rifle and where it hits. 

 

Also, excessive cleaning is not necessary or helpful. If you're one of those guys who cleans the barrel every time you use the gun, you'll need to plan on working around a few fouling shots every time you shoot it again. 

 

 

1 hour ago, Yondering said:

Actually for 1.5 hrs of trying to zero it out its all the same.

1. After 6 rounds of adjustments where the first shot is dead on, then all succeeding were all lower left 1.5" to 2" grouping (using red dot) in 25 yards, I stopped and cool it down for 15 minutes

2. I will try to zero it out again, and all the same as in item 1 above.

3. Zeroing, i am using a support for the rifle to minimize movement and 2moa red dot sighted to my rear BUIS for best round red dot

 

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11 hours ago, AHI said:

adjust by 3 shot groups not individual shots.    Gun may not like the ammo you are shooting.

I know at 25yards ammo should not matter but it may.

 

Hello AHI,

 

I think you are right, my barrel is 10.5" with 1/7 twist, according to forums, this twist rate like a heavy ammo. I was using the 55g 223 rem and 5.56.

I will try to buy and use the 62g and lets see.

 

But when I changed the bolt to cmmg bravo 22LR conversion, the point of aim is equal to point of impact.

With this, I zeroed my red dot to 22LR conversion kit, and barely zero the 223 rem/5.56 to 25y (1.5 to 2" group) using the BUIS.

Temporary only.

 

Edited by Orbit
adding info
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  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎5‎/‎26‎/‎2009 at 12:20 PM, yarbsea said:

So I put together my first batch of .223

I hand-cycled them through my ar-15, and about 30% are hard to manually eject...i.e. it takes alot of effort [or more than the rest] to pull the charging handle back and eject them...

Is something setup wrong? They were sized correctly, and I measured the hard-to-eject ones and everything checked out!

I have this same problem in my JP barrel... I just wasn't getting them resized right or trimmed enough. 

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On 10/12/2019 at 8:32 AM, Orbit said:

 

Hello AHI,

 

I think you are right, my barrel is 10.5" with 1/7 twist, according to forums, this twist rate like a heavy ammo. I was using the 55g 223 rem and 5.56.

I will try to buy and use the 62g and lets see.

 

But when I changed the bolt to cmmg bravo 22LR conversion, the point of aim is equal to point of impact.

With this, I zeroed my red dot to 22LR conversion kit, and barely zero the 223 rem/5.56 to 25y (1.5 to 2" group) using the BUIS.

Temporary only.

 

You may want to try a 69gr round after the 62gr. My 1in 7 likes heavier rounds. It wouldn't group 55gr for crap.

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/3/2009 at 6:21 PM, yarbsea said:

All fixed.

For whatever reason, I dropped some factory ammo into the dillon case gauge, and noticed that it sat ALOT lower than the ammo I was making, and was even a bit (or at least appeared to be a bit) below the lower marking...

so anyway, I adjusted the sizing die to match the factory ammo and now it's smooth as glass, shoots great..ejects great..win!

 

This is what I was going to tell you.

 

I have one Colt AR that has a TIGHT chamber.  My normal 5.56 ammo would be hard to eject and might not fully chamber when dropping the bolt from the catch.

 

The rounds would seat in the case gauge, but be flush with the upper level.  Factory ammo was even with the lower step.  

 

I had to really crank the die down on my 650 to get the ammo to the same specs, but after talking to Dillon, did so, and it is fine.

 

For the already loaded ammo, I can only say Redding Body die. :)

 

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