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STI Eagle Doubling


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t has been over 3 weeks since I last reported my issues that have plagued me for over a year. I sent my gun to Benny Hill at Triangle Shooting Sports as many of you had recommended in the beginning. Benny had contacted me on the forum and agreed to look at my gun free of charge, and turn it around fast so that I could have it back in time to learn the timing and shoot it through Nationals. I sent it out on Monday, he got it on Tuesday and called me. Later the same day he called me with the list, a long one, of the things he did to improve the overall smoothness and timing of my gun, which he called "a x?0-!#% mess". All of these repairs and parts replacements made sense too. He shipped it out the next day, and I got it on Thursday. I have put 500-600 rounds through it with plenty of fast, up-close shots with no malfunctions. I hesitate to call it cured, but it is much better than ever before in timing, trigger, and feel. It was especially smooth today, and I look forward to Nationals.

I want to thank Benny Hill for his friendly attitude, fast turn-around, and excellent service-all at a price much less than I expected. He sent me a message the other day I have to share, "Kick ass & shoot fast A’s". Thanks again Benny, I hope to do just that.

New Hammer with 25% more engagement surface(still feels smooth too)

Polished sear and disconnect for more positive movement

Lighter Mainspring

Lighter Recoil Spring and Buff

Trigger area relieved on frame and grip frame and polished

Feed ramp re-cut

Disconnected grip safety

Each gun stands alone, and Benny can decide what they need, that is the magic.

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Its mechanical not your fast trigger finger. Get your trigger done by a compentent gunsmith.

If you are monkeying with over-travel, DONT. You bang up the sear nose and its starts to fall to halfcock and then maybe double.

The smith will set it and I have seen many a shooter play with this adjustment afterwards and lose matches or get DQ'ed, not understanding that it is set as "far" as it can be set, so it needs left alone. . period.

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Its mechanical not your fast trigger finger. Get your trigger done by a compentent gunsmith.

If you are monkeying with over-travel, DONT. You bang up the sear nose and its starts to fall to halfcock and then maybe double.

The smith will set it and I have seen many a shooter play with this adjustment afterwards and lose matches or get DQ'ed, not understanding that it is set as "far" as it can be set, so it needs left alone. . period.

Mechanical???? A new gun and a gun just back from STI with the trigger work done by them. I just ain't buying it anymore after reading what Mike Foley and others have been through. Sorry. I may buy that I am crushing the grip hard enough to cause something to be just enough out of alignment but not that these triggers are not set up correctly. The first few pages of Mike's post is exactly what I am experiencing.

AL

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  • 1 month later...

I've been dealing with this same problem for the last year with my STI eagle. I have taken it back to the gunsmith 5 times. All the guts were changed numerous times, and with different combinations of pats. I still have problems with this gun, but believe I may know what is causing my problem with hammer follow. I believe what is happening is that as I am releasing the trigger, the action of the slide closing causes the gun to be pushed forward into my trigger finger. I was never able to make the hammer follow happen on command, it was always random, but only on close hoser targets. I can now "make" the hammer follow during dry cycling, by cycling the slide while maintaining light trigger pressure. When the slide closes, and the gun dips, the hammer drops to half cock. It only works if my strong hand is relaxed, as it would be if I were doing splits in the .11-.15 range. In re-searching this problem I found a reply on Rob Leatham's Blog that was helpful: http://www.robleatham.com/answers040602.htm

Rob explains in his reply exactly the experience I seem to be having. I will try Rob's recommended fix. If it works, I'll let you know. I suspect that the cause of your problem may be the same as mine.

Jason

Edited by jnikoley
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Dang Jason, I'm sorry to hear you are still having trouble with that rascal.. I agree with Larry. Ship or drive that pistol down to Benny.

I would, but right now I'm in Colorado and have a big match comming up. I will have the local pistol guru here install some parts for me to my specifications. Hopefully it will fix the problem. I will most likely run into Benny at the RM3G, and if it isn't fixed by then, I'll definitely give it to him.

Thanks,

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jnikoley, the hammer falling to half cock when you let the slide go forward on an empty trigger is from sear/hammer configuration, which could in part be caused by the hammer strut or pin geometry. After you get your sear/hammer engagements fixed, cutting the hammer hooks a little longer (.024-.026) will most likely stop the doubling you seem to be having. It sounds like your problem could be more "bump firing", but since you say the hammer will "follow" when slide slammed, the fire control components need some attention.

Relaxing the grip in the hands so lightly when going fast allows some shooters to "bump fire" the gun. Everyone I've talked to that had this problem releases or loosens their grip on the gun. Strangely enough, loose grip screws can cause the problem in a 2011 also.

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jnikoley, the hammer falling to half cock when you let the slide go forward on an empty trigger is from sear/hammer configuration, which could in part be caused by the hammer strut or pin geometry. After you get your sear/hammer engagements fixed, cutting the hammer hooks a little longer (.024-.026) will most likely stop the doubling you seem to be having. It sounds like your problem could be more "bump firing", but since you say the hammer will "follow" when slide slammed, the fire control components need some attention.

Relaxing the grip in the hands so lightly when going fast allows some shooters to "bump fire" the gun. Everyone I've talked to that had this problem releases or loosens their grip on the gun. Strangely enough, loose grip screws can cause the problem in a 2011 also.

I'm having a new trigger job done, with a new gunsmith, all new parts, and no break-away angle on the sear for more engagement area, but I hadn't thought of the hammer strut being a problem, so I asked my new smith to check it out. The current strut is Ti, but I doubt I have put enough rounds through the gun for the pin hole to have ovaled. The previous smith checked the hammer pin/hole, and sear pin/hole geometry to be sure they were in spec. To be on the safe side, I'm putting in new pins. I was able to demonstrate to my new smith how I can "bump fire" my gun on command, but couldn't do it with his gun, so I'm hoping he can get mine fixed. I do use a softer/relaxed grip when I speed up, although I've been told I use a "death grip", I do relax in order to go fast on the close ones. The grip screws were all tight and locktited. I'll post again if it's fixed, but I'll need to put a couple thousand rounds through it first. Thanks for the suggestions, they have often made me think in a direction I wouldn't have...

Edited by jnikoley
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I will not say mine is cured but I have had it back from Benny for several weeks with zero malfunctions. I have not shot it enough to say it is cured but it is definitely running right now. Thanks again Benny.

AL

I've had the same thing plaguing me for the last year... Did Benny do anything different in your set up, or just his standard set up?

Edited by jnikoley
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If you have any more problems PM me, I'll offer what advice I can to help. If your new guy has any problems or questions with it tell him to give me a call.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I will! (but really hope I won't have to).

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