adweisbe Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) I will call S&W on Monday. I dry fired the pistol extensively (~10k times is a WAG) but didn't shoot it much. The trigger had gotten pretty poor rather then better with use and I thought I might improve it by cleaning things out and lightly oiling. I took the side plate off by hitting the side of the grip frame with a nylon hammer which I thought was the recommended method. I shot it a few weeks ago and it did go bang. I wonder if it works with a broken stud. Edited May 9, 2009 by adweisbe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 No, it won't work. But it doesn't look like your fault. I see a void nearby and possibly an inclusion at the site of the break. Get em to replace it and carry on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 They'll still shoot with a broken hammer stud. The side plate sort of holds it in place. Until you take the side plate off because the action has gotten worse. Call S&W. They can fix it for you. I'm don't know of anybody else who will fix a broken hammer stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cigar Guy Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 They'll still shoot with a broken hammer stud. The side plate sort of holds it in place. Until you take the side plate off because the action has gotten worse. Call S&W. They can fix it for you. I'm don't know of anybody else who will fix a broken hammer stud. If S&W won't do it for you, give Bill Laughridge at Cylinder & Slide a call. He fixed this same problem for me on a Colt Commando (cheap 1980s version of a Detective Special). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haras Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 There is a possibility that you contributed to the break if you dry fired it while the side plate was off. It's real tempting to do but you're asking the stud (supported on one side now) to take all the torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 My dad's trigger stud broke and he had it sent back to Smith and Wesson. Make sure to take out all the parts if they have been modified in any way or they will replace them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 I've had either a trigger stud or hammer stud break on all 3 of my S&W Revos, M28, M29 and a 625. You'll have 2 choices. Crown Stud, which leaves a Rivet look on the off side of the frame (LH side). But which takes much less time and expense. I had that done on the M28 and the 625. Blind Stud, which should come back looking new (M29 had this and I can see a sliver of a solder ring if I look real close) is pretty much Factory Original looking. But it costs 2x as much, or more, and takes much longer. You'll pay $100 for the refinish with this one alone. Causes, make sure you don't put much strain on the Mainspring without the Side Plate on. A little to keep everything aligned is probably ok. Or it could be bad Karma. JM told me he never had much trouble with the studs, til he said so and handed off one of his Revo's to someone else to try and it promptly broke a Stud. So who know. Note the studs can be "adjusted" by bending and some actually need it. Replacing one is a pretty intense job and best left to someone with the proper JIGS. Maybe someone needs to come up with a better mouse trap here, incorporating something to make the pull smoother also. Maybe a Sealed Roller Bearing in the Hammer and Trigger and a Thicker, Harder replacable Pin/Stud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 In the 22 years I've been running revolvers in competition, I've never broken a single hammer or trigger stud. (Knock on wood.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 In the 22 years I've been running revolvers in competition, I've never broken a single hammer or trigger stud.(Knock on wood.) Yea, that's what JM told me at the 2004 A3. Until....He said. Seriously I have a tendency to tinker too much. I think the probability of it happening increases exponentially with each Side Plate removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooney Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 If you're the original owner and haven't modified it, SW should be fixing/ replacing that one free of charge. They're really good with the (original owner) Lifetime Warranty. Please let us know the outcome, as my 642 is my favorite carry piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 If you're the original owner and haven't modified it, SW should be fixing/ replacing that one free of charge. They're really good with the (original owner) Lifetime Warranty. Please let us know the outcome, as my 642 is my favorite carry piece. I called them this morning and they will email me a shipping label. I have used their service a couple of times before and it has always been excellent. I'm not worried about getting it fixed for free. I bet they will have something back to me within two weeks. I just thought it was an interesting data point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 In the 22 years I've been running revolvers in competition, I've never broken a single hammer or trigger stud.(Knock on wood.) Neither have I but I have seen it happen and knew he cause when saw it. (My first revolver was purchased in 1971) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 In the 22 years I've been running revolvers in competition, I've never broken a single hammer or trigger stud.(Knock on wood.) Neither have I but I have seen it happen and knew he cause when saw it. (My first revolver was purchased in 1971) Wouldn't be the first gun I've broken. What was it that caused the hammer stud to break? I would like to avoid repeating the tragedy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I didn't notice when I popped the hood on mine, but with the frame being aluminum, it looks like the stud is kind of riveted from the inside, not part of the frame. Cool! I put springs in mine and dryfired it some, the trigger isn't bad for a carry gun. The sights are the big hangup on it, but hey, it fits in my pocket! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Most S&Ws go for a lifetime with no breakage. Once in a while a hammer or trigger pin breaks. I've had 2 trigger pivot pins break and one hand pivot pin break in 30+ years and many 10s of thousands of rounds and dryfire and many different guns. I think if they are going to break off, they will. I don't worry about it till it happens. I hardly ever send a gun to the factory for anything, but the best fix for this is to send it in to Smith. On the J frames, a spring kit from Brownells helps a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 The other half of the story. I apologize for not getting better focus. Not sure what happened. Something wallowed out the top of the recess for the hammer pin in the side plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPM8shot Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 I have had 3 of these hammer studs break, 2 were on the same pistol and one on a police trade in I bought. I dont know if this has anything to do with it but both revolvers are stainless steel, The first is my 625 and the second is my model 681. Both of these went back to the factory. The 625 got a new hammer stud and I went back to dry firing it as I always do. Then my normally smooth trigger pull got increasingly erratic and harder. To my shock the hammer pivot pin was broken again. I sent the pistol to Smith and Wesson and they installed what looked like a cheaply done fence post. I mean they drilled a hole through the frame and pressed in the pin and used what looked like a 3 pin staking tool on it. I reinstalled my spring kit and dry fired a little and the pin started coming loose. I called Smith and Wesson again the pistol went back and now they said "the frame is no good" OK fine 252.00 later I got the pistol back. The second was on my model 681 night stand gun, I was wiping the dust off of it and shook the hammer and to my shock it was wobbling in the frame, Off to Smith again. I asked the technician, "Is there a problem with the stainless steel used?". He said "NO!" and that "This is really rare and it was probably something I was doing". (I will with hold my comments) On the other hand my 586 sits on my coffee table and gets dry fired by anyone in the house, I can easily say that it has 100-150 thousand pulls on it, never a problem. Because of my experience I am really leery of stainless guns. Just my 2 cents Randy USPSA A-27966 ICORE CA8941 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 "This is really rare and it was probably something I was doing". (I will with hold my comments) I must have talked to the same guy........ I feel your pain. I was able to miraculously make my "ruined " gun whole again without their help..... They are still the ones to do this repair..... DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmd Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 The other half of the story. I apologize for not getting better focus. Not sure what happened.Something wallowed out the top of the recess for the hammer pin in the side plate. Ariel, First time I've seen this - Thanks for posting. I do have to ask - is that a dog's paw in the back ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 On the other hand my 586 sits on my coffee table and gets dry fired by anyone in the house, I can easily say that it has 100-150 thousand pulls on it, never a problem. I am fascinated by the idea of having a "coffee table revolver" laying there for anyone to dry-fire. What a great idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPM8shot Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 On the other hand my 586 sits on my coffee table and gets dry fired by anyone in the house, I can easily say that it has 100-150 thousand pulls on it, never a problem. I am fascinated by the idea of having a "coffee table revolver" laying there for anyone to dry-fire. What a great idea! I must add the standing rule in the house is: "Each time the firearm is picked up and or handled, "You are to check to see if it is unloaded, No matter what!" and " NO AMMUNITION NEAR THE FIREARM " and if alcohol is present ALL firearms go into the safe. Be safe everyone, Randy A27966 CA8491 RPM8Shot yes I have one of those also, 100,000 plus rounds and counting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooney Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Ariel, Any news on this yet from Smith??? Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 I got the letter saying they received the gun after I sent it in but otherwise nothing so far. I am not in a hurry since I have a couple of other revos now so I haven't followed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
professor Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I had a hammer stud snap off on my M19, which S&W repaired NC. Trigger pull just seemed to get heavier and 'gritty', until the cylinder wouldn't rotate any more. Looking at your pictures, I'd say the stud first cracked part way, and you've since been firing, dry or 'wet', for enough time that the tip of the cracked stud bearing on the side plate support hole has worn it down some. Finally, the stud snapped off entirely. Had you removed the side plate sooner, I'll bet the stud would have completed snapping off sooner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Picked up the replacement 642 with a new frame and serial number today from a local FFL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now