biga9999 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 C-Rums was about 2.5-3 weeks turnaround (that includes shipping to and from). Anything I can do to radius those points or trim back to get past this match, it is a fundraiser for a friend and fellow shooter to help sshis family cope with costs for cancer treatments, otherwise I would skip it. Several folks have ground them down or completely off. I think I would smooth them without removing too much material and then send it off to be welded, if that is what you want to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle O Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 C-Rums was about 2.5-3 weeks turnaround (that includes shipping to and from). Anything I can do to radius those points or trim back to get past this match, it is a fundraiser for a friend and fellow shooter to help sshis family cope with costs for cancer treatments, otherwise I would skip it. Several folks have ground them down or completely off. I think I would smooth them without removing too much material and then send it off to be welded, if that is what you want to do. If you cut/modify your lifter, C-rums will not accept it! Been there, done that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biga9999 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 C-Rums was about 2.5-3 weeks turnaround (that includes shipping to and from). Anything I can do to radius those points or trim back to get past this match, it is a fundraiser for a friend and fellow shooter to help sshis family cope with costs for cancer treatments, otherwise I would skip it. Several folks have ground them down or completely off. I think I would smooth them without removing too much material and then send it off to be welded, if that is what you want to do. If you cut/modify your lifter, C-rums will not accept it! Been there, done that! thanks Kyle. Was not aware of that. He is working on mine now. So ready to get it in hand. Back to the ?, I would just shoot it the way it is and take your time loading, then send it off after the shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 C-Rums was about 2.5-3 weeks turnaround (that includes shipping to and from). Anything I can do to radius those points or trim back to get past this match, it is a fundraiser for a friend and fellow shooter to help sshis family cope with costs for cancer treatments, otherwise I would skip it. Several folks have ground them down or completely off. I think I would smooth them without removing too much material and then send it off to be welded, if that is what you want to do. If you cut/modify your lifter, C-rums will not accept it! Been there, done that! thanks Kyle. Was not aware of that. He is working on mine now. So ready to get it in hand. Back to the ?, I would just shoot it the way it is and take your time loading, then send it off after the shoot. maybe the best compromise, maybe some packaging tape on the thumb...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 (edited) Looks like a clean job Doc. That seems to be the amount of work I want to do to mine, but I have been too scared to grind on the new shotgun. I stay away from the Dremel Tool! I do it all with files and stones. Sometimes I go to far too fast with power tools! I felt the same way, but no fear now. Just go slow! Cheers, Kyle Doc, can we get a picture of the lifter from the top side? (Take it out of the gun) Looks awesome BTW. Thanks. You Bet! Thanks for the compliment, but Michael Shumaker is the man and he should get the credit! He did a great job and stuck with the project until it worked 100% of the time! Here are the photos you requested. Cheers, Kyle Anyone know what the turn-around time is to weld up a gate....I might have gotten myself in a jam...just received my SLP today, and yes the thumb eating gate makes it difficult to load, BUT I have a match march 5th Shumaker's turn around is between 2 - 3 weeks as well. Kyle Edited February 11, 2011 by DocMcG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I rounded off, just polished the fork, it was needle sharp, hardly removed any material and it is working well enough to use until after the match, such a small detail the factory could correct easily on the entire model line....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mildot1 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Been reading a lot about "lifter welding" mods. Not seeing any contact info for the guys that are doing it. Would some one PM me some contact info? Thanks Mildot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biga9999 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Been reading a lot about "lifter welding" mods. Not seeing any contact info for the guys that are doing it. Would some one PM me some contact info? Thanks Mildot PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prov1x Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Can you polish or bevel out the inside of the loading area...basically what I am talking about is that when I try to load fast and the shell is pointing up, not straight up, it hits that raised portion on the top of that area and gets stuck. Then I have to take it out and load it at a more of a 45* angle and it will go in. I would like to bevel that area inside but don't know how much you can take off without it messing anything up. Is that an option or has anyone done that type of mod and if so can you post a pic? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kang8r Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 (edited) Search for 00bullitt's post. He's has posted lots of good info on SLP mods. Can you polish or bevel out the inside of the loading area...basically what I am talking about is that when I try to load fast and the shell is pointing up, not straight up, it hits that raised portion on the top of that area and gets stuck. Then I have to take it out and load it at a more of a 45* angle and it will go in. I would like to bevel that area inside but don't know how much you can take off without it messing anything up. Is that an option or has anyone done that type of mod and if so can you post a pic? Thanks Edited February 14, 2011 by Kang8r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Hello All! RUSHARP2 recently asked me to share with him all of the mods I have done to my SLP. I had to scratch my head on this one, but I think I got it done. I wanted to post it here to be helpful to anyone else who might need it. These are a series of things that have been shared with me by folks such as Tod Litt, Fred Quarles and others. I have also stolen ideas from rifle shooters and created a few polishing mods of my own. Enjoy! "The long and the short of it is that once you modify one part of the shotgun it typically throws another a bit off balance so you have to make minor modifications to several other parts to bring it back in check. The good news is, it is not hard to do. Here is a list of things I have done to mine and additional notes for each. Let me know if you would like me to send you any photos. 1. Weld up the "thumb destroying" lifter. (This is what Shumaker did such a good job of for me! He not only welded it up, he also milled the "Benelli" slot in it and built up the starboard side to improve reliability.)(NOTE: this tends to cause reliability issues with shells failing to feed by hanging up on the extractor slot at 3 o'clock on the chamber.) 2. Polished the Chamber and Extractor Slot from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. (This was done to prevent the failure to feed issue caused by the modification to the lifter. I did this with my finger, some emory cloth and steel wool.) 3. I opened up the loading port with HANDTOOLS! (I refuse to use the Dremel tool because of my own habit of going too fast.) 4. I cut back the hand guard so it would not interfere with reloads or the loading port I just opened. 5. Added the Nordic Comp charging handle 6. Added the Nordic Comp Benelli bolt release oversized button 7. Soft sided shot shell carriers for the port side (9 shell) and the 2 shell slide lock carrier for the starboard side. (both are hook and look removable.) 8. Cut the tubular magazine spring. (This makes reloads softer. There should be a minimum of 12" of spring hanging out of the front (Fore not aft) end of the magazine tube after you cut it. Many say to buy an extra spring and keep it with you just incase after making this mod.) 9. Polish the inside of the tubular magazine. (Wrap a 12ga brass brush in steel wool, place it on a cleaning rod and chuck it up in a high speed drill. Run it up and down the tube at high rpm to polish the heck out of it!) 10. Polish the magazine spring and shell follower. (This is done with steel wool as well. I plan on buying a Nordic Comp follower, but have not gotten it done yet.) 11. Polish the Recoil Spring and Recoil Spring Tube: (Remove the stock and disassemble the recoil tube and spring. Clean all oil residue off. Chuck the spring up in a 1/2" drill and run it at high rpm while running steel wool up and down the length of the spring. Polish the inside of the recoil tube using the same procedure mentioned above for polishing the tubular magazine, but use a .45 acp brush/20ga brush. After polishing them both and wiping clean, slather the spring and inside of tube in an engine reassembly lube of your choice. This makes the recoil operation sing!) 12. I have also added extended choke tubes and run the I/C and Light Mod for most everything. 13. Run the light gas piston for all shot and try to run reduced recoil slugs. (FN says this keeps everything under 1000/1100fps and you can leave the light piston in all of the time.) 14. Cleaning/Maintenance: (A) Buy a full bottle of Hoppes No. 9 and pour it in a small glass. Drop your gas piston in it and let is soak while you clean the rest of the shotgun. Drop it in first and then brush the piston up after cleaning everything else. The carbon brushes right off with a plastic bristle cleaning brush/toothbrush. (B Keep all oil off of the outside of the recoil tube! Clean it with dry steel wool only. The built up carbon creates an amazing lube! Wrap steel wool around the tube and with long even strokes clean the tube until the carbon is gone. The brass ring is a bit of a challenge, but can be done. Clean the barrel ring with steel wool the same way. C) Spray Rem Oil or another light oil on the magazine tube spring before inserting. The follower can be sprayed as well. D) I lube the moving part of the gun and all of my competition guns with a 5w Castrol Synthetic oil. It stays with the gun and does not go away, but this is a mess if you use too much!) That is everything that I have learned from so many others and my SLP DOES NOT STOP! If I can ever be of any assistance, please let me know." Cheers, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biga9999 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Thanks Kyle. I got a few goodies for my SLP, now I just need my SLP. (Nordic charging handle and +1 extension on hand, Nordic follower and 9 and 2 shot shell holders have been ordered) Talked to C-Rums yesterday, and the damn snow delayed him getting it by a week. Hoping to have it in hand end of next week/beginning of the next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kang8r Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Thanks Kyle, very informative. I'll have to try the 5w Castrol . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionshooter Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Thats a great write up! Thanks. Do you have any pics? Has anyone had to buy factory parts? I lost the hair clip that holds the pin next to the lifter and want to get the right one. I've been looking and haven't found the right size yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 (edited) Here are some photos of the mods mentioned in my earlier post. Let me know if you want additional photos. -Kyle Photo1: Lifter weld-up, port opening and hand guard cut back. Photo 2: Chamber & extractor groove polish (hard to see much here) Photo 3: Side detail of photo 1 Photo 4: Internal detail of lifter weld-up, "bennelli-type" milled slot, and starboard side internal riser build-up by Mike Shumaker - Shumaker Gun Works Photo 5: Weld-up and starboard side internal riser build-up detail Photo 6: Starboard side internal riser build-up detail Photo 7: Full shot Wow, those turned out to be large photos! Sorry about that, it was as small as I could make them, but you can really see the detail! Enjoy! Edited February 18, 2011 by DocMcG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
actionshooter Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Thanks for taking the time to pass that along. I've been thinking about the lifter weld, but I've only caught my thumb in there 1 time. My old Benelli has the slot in the middle of the follower and I have shredded a thumbnail more than a couple of times. Not sure if that mod would be right for me. I like the polishing though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biga9999 Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 (edited) Received my SLP from C-Rums today. Could not be happier. Now I just need to get out to the range. Had him weld the lift gate (slot cut out was a bonus and did not notice it for an hour or two after I got it home) add the release button and smooth out the loading area. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Edited February 24, 2011 by biga9999 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Thats a great write up! Thanks. Do you have any pics? Has anyone had to buy factory parts? I lost the hair clip that holds the pin next to the lifter and want to get the right one. I've been looking and haven't found the right size yet. It's Brownells part number 149-000-120 or 910-000-287 (one is for the Browning, one is for the Winchester SX-2. Either way, it's the same part as the SLP.) Order 2 while you're at it. They're about 4 bucks each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aheadofthecurve Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Can you polish or bevel out the inside of the loading area...basically what I am talking about is that when I try to load fast and the shell is pointing up, not straight up, it hits that raised portion on the top of that area and gets stuck. Then I have to take it out and load it at a more of a 45* angle and it will go in. I would like to bevel that area inside but don't know how much you can take off without it messing anything up. Is that an option or has anyone done that type of mod and if so can you post a pic? Thanks I looked into this and I think the answer is no, you can't smooth it out much. There simply isn't enough material there to polish. There is a tiny bit of material and then the mag tube begins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMIS Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 I love my SLP but hated that stupid top rail on it... so it had to go Thanks to my dad it's gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthp Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Not sure if this counts as an SLP mod, but I switched from a 26" barrel on my Winchester SX 3 to a 24" vent ribbed SLP barrel. The SLP barrel works fine on the Winchester and handles better. I'm still getting adjusted to the switch from a Benelli, and the slugs impact high at 50 and 75 yards,but I think it ultimately will work out better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Anyone had any luck sourcing a spare lifter from FN? I'd like to have have mine worked on but can't be without my shotgun for an entire month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeOne3345 Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 I love my SLP but hated that stupid top rail on it... so it had to go Thanks to my dad it's gone. I'd get rid of mine but it works great for burying the front FO in it for shooting slugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMIS Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 I love my SLP but hated that stupid top rail on it... so it had to go Thanks to my dad it's gone. I'd get rid of mine but it works great for burying the front FO in it for shooting slugs. I find it easier to put the FO in the V of the flip now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose76 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Anyone had any luck sourcing a spare lifter from FN? I'd like to have have mine worked on but can't be without my shotgun for an entire month. You can get one from Brownells. It is a winchester part, but they are the same. Winchester Lifter at Brownells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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