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Dillon Super 1050 tool head alignment popping


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Hopefully, someone who has a Dillon 1050 has an answer for this problem. I though I had this figured out, but caved in and called Dillon.

I get a popping noise from the tool head when the cases are inserted into and released from the dies.

I called Dillon, they said the tool head alignment pins/rods need to be tuned with the brass and dies in motion. They said to color the alignment pins with a marker, then, watch for where contact is made.

That being said, the next step in the tuning process is to tap the alignment pins in the direction of the area that does not have marker on them to align them.

I have 4 tool heads and they all do this. Any other method? The reason I said that is I tried this method and I broke off one of the alignment pins. Dillon fixed it at no charge, but I am going crazy with all the popping. It does make the reloading a bit frustrating.

This is a 1 1/2 year old Super 1050 with about 30K on it. I am getting ready to sell it and stay with my 650. No popping!

Help!!!!

Jerry Snyder

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You engineers....! :rolleyes:

Most of the time the "popping" is from your swinging primer rocker arm assembly being a few thousandths to low when tightened on the steel outer primer tube. Puts the timing off just a touch when the primer tray thingie delivers the primer and causes that little pop and hitch in the stroke.

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Hello: Jerry I'll go $250 :roflol: You may try some lube on the pins as well. The other area that can cause the popping is if the toolhead washer is bottoming out on the ram before it holds the toolhead down. You can flip the washer over and see if that does it. Other than that you will have to see where the popping is coming from. I believe the guide pins are hardened and will break if you try to bend them like you have already found out. Thanks, Eric

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I have it traced down to the amount of friction between the alignment pins and the alignment holes. As Dillon suggests, the alignment pins need to be adjusted a little bit to relieve the amount of stiction. When the alignment pin comes out of the hole, it releases all the friction at the same time and the POP noise is present.

I can live with it, but want to make it run at optimal efficiency. I will probably call Dillon one more time and see what they use to align the Pins.

It is too nice of a press to sell off because of this minor problem, on top of that, I never like to loose a battle with a machine. I will have it running correctly sooner than later.

Jerry

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Hopefully, someone who has a Dillon 1050 has an answer for this problem. I though I had this figured out, but caved in and called Dillon.

I get a popping noise from the tool head when the cases are inserted into and released from the dies.

I called Dillon, they said the tool head alignment pins/rods need to be tuned with the brass and dies in motion. They said to color the alignment pins with a marker, then, watch for where contact is made.

That being said, the next step in the tuning process is to tap the alignment pins in the direction of the area that does not have marker on them to align them.

I have 4 tool heads and they all do this. Any other method? The reason I said that is I tried this method and I broke off one of the alignment pins. Dillon fixed it at no charge, but I am going crazy with all the popping. It does make the reloading a bit frustrating.

This is a 1 1/2 year old Super 1050 with about 30K on it. I am getting ready to sell it and stay with my 650. No popping!

Help!!!!

Jerry Snyder

Dear Jerry,

what exactly do you mean with "popping"?

My experience is as follows: When I cycle the machine at normal speed without stopping in the down position everything runs smoothly. As soon as I move the handle slowly, stopping in the down position, then moving the handle up very slowly (which admittedly seldom happens during normal operation) the machine sort of gets stuck and breaks loose which gives a rough feeling on the handle accompanied by a distinctive sound. I wasn't able to find out what actually produces this and why this only happens during "slow motion" cycling. Are we talking about the same phenomenon here?

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When I change the tool head on my 1050, I leave the big nut on the top a little loose. Then I lower the handle and finish tightening the nut with the pins aligned. Seems to help.

Ditto.

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As soon as I move the handle slowly, stopping in the down position, then moving the handle up very slowly (which admittedly seldom happens during normal operation) the machine sort of gets stuck and breaks loose which gives a rough feeling on the handle accompanied by a distinctive sound. I wasn't able to find out what actually produces this and why this only happens during "slow motion" cycling. Are we talking about the same phenomenon here?

It may be the powder bar in the powder measure. Sometimes a little powder will get stuck in the powder bar slide channel and it will cause it to 'stick' a little. If you're going real slow, the roughness may be the failsafe rod trying to reset the powder bar that's being slowed down by some powder or dust.

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All quality control engineers are just too damned picky. You have a 1050 and a 650, 3 or 4 Benny Hill pistols, one of his ARs, my shotgun AND you live in Texas now. Still want to bitch? See you soon.----------Larry

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Dear Jerry,

what exactly do you mean with "popping"?

My experience is as follows: When I cycle the machine at normal speed without stopping in the down position everything runs smoothly. As soon as I move the handle slowly, stopping in the down position, then moving the handle up very slowly (which admittedly seldom happens during normal operation) the machine sort of gets stuck and breaks loose which gives a rough feeling on the handle accompanied by a distinctive sound. I wasn't able to find out what actually produces this and why this only happens during "slow motion" cycling. Are we talking about the same phenomenon here?

Yes, this is exactly what I am talking about.

Thanks

JS

Edited by benos
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Jerry, have you thought that it might be the expander pulling out of the case at the powder measure. If so take the measure apart and polish the expander.-------------Larry

Thanks, I was using the old style "F" funnel with the curved radius. I switched it over to the straight "angled" "F" and will check if it works better.

I will disassemble the powder measure bottom end this weekend.

JS

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When I change the tool head on my 1050, I leave the big nut on the top a little loose. Then I lower the handle and finish tightening the nut with the pins aligned. Seems to help.

Yes good one.

This may or may not have anything to do with the opening post, but here it is anyway...

On a 550 or 650, (usually just) new brass "pops" as it sticks a bit as it comes off the Powder Funnel. The same scenario is usually improved on a 1050, because (as they come from Dillon) on a 1050 the Powder Funnel, or "Powder Activator" it's called on a 1050, only flares the case mouth. Neck-sizing is done with the Backup Expander. "Splitting" the two operations (next sizing and flaring) done by the Powder Funnel into two separate operations/stations on the 1050 offers a bit of an improvement at reducing the popping phenomena.

be

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Problem Fixed:

Thourughly cleaned machine of all gunk

Put back proper 1050 specific "F" Powder funnel

Put back the Dillon sizing die vs the "U" die

Adjusted the timing on the shell plate with that little set screw

Loosened the top bolt of the ram, lowered tool head, tightened top bolt

Loosened all dies, lowered tool head, tightened all dies

Put back the swagging rod

Adjused the primer rocker arm

Applied lubricant to tool head aligning pins

Reduced 95% of the popping noises. Runs great!

Thanks

I won't touch it for at least two weeks..... :rolleyes:

Jerry

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  • 5 years later...

Mine does the same thing, but it does it only on the up stroke. It sounds and looks like the brass is sticking in the resize die some and the deprime pin also on the down stroke, It will then "pop" as the brass is pulled out of the resize die, and off the primer punch pin. I think tuning the alignment pin is a great idea, as well as lube. Centering the machine head all the way down before tightening is cool also. Consider use some One Shot case lube. Just lube brass you going to reload within the next hour. See if that helps also. The other issue could be coming from the powder funnel and may be going into the case to far, so its sticking on the way out and causing the pop.

Let us know what you discover

Ken

:cheers:

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