A_Med Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 So I just received my THOR comp today and it didn't ship with any kind of washer. Is a washer absolutely necessary? The images I've seen in other threads on JP Rifles and such do not appear to have a washer, but I'm pretty sure it would be an amazing stroke of luck if I could index it without a washer to a barrel that it wasn't specifically machined for. Not that I didn't try of course I hand tightened it to the barrel just to see and it was about 1/16 short of sitting flush to the barrel when I couldn't hand turn it any more. At that point it was actually indexed but the crown of the barrel was just slightly protruding into the first baffle. I'm guessing it shouldn't do that??? so I'll need a washer to bridge the gap and back the crown up. Crush washer or peel washer? If I wanted to get really ambitious and not use a washer would I have to cut back the threads to match the comp? How could I go about figuring out the timing to do that? Am I crazy to even think about it? What say the experts? Angel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbullgpd Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 crush or peel, either will work. I like the crush cause they are idiot proof. I don't like having to peel the layers away to get the right fit. JMHO. I think alot of folks use the peel from previous posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GentlemanJim Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) Do it right Check what stops the comp from going back against the shoulder on the barrel. It may be that the threads stop short of the shoulder...if so cut some clearence in the comp to clear the incomplete threads. the threads will move the comp back .0357" per one revolution figure out how much of a revolution you are short of correct timing...convert that into how much to remove from the rear of the comp and remove a little less than that amount from the comp ...its easy to take TOO much.. Take some time and it will come out nice...you can also blend the seam so its not visible Jim Edited April 29, 2009 by GentlemanJim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Med Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 Do it right Check what stops the comp from going back against the shoulder on the barrel. It may be that the threads stop short of the shoulder...if so cut some clearence in the comp to clear the incomplete threads. the threads will move the comp back .0357" per one revolution figure out how much of a revolution you are short of correct timing...convert that into how much to remove from the rear of the comp and remove a little less than that amount from the comp ...its easy to take TOO much.. Take some time and it will come out nice...you can also blend the seam so its not visible Jim Uh! OOOOk. Thanks for the input Jim. So my next question. Does anybody know a good gunsmith in Central Virginia that will do this for me? Angel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotm4 Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 So I just received my THOR comp today and it didn't ship with any kind of washer. Is a washer absolutely necessary? The images I've seen in other threads on JP Rifles and such do not appear to have a washer, but I'm pretty sure it would be an amazing stroke of luck if I could index it without a washer to a barrel that it wasn't specifically machined for. Not that I didn't try of course I hand tightened it to the barrel just to see and it was about 1/16 short of sitting flush to the barrel when I couldn't hand turn it any more. At that point it was actually indexed but the crown of the barrel was just slightly protruding into the first baffle. I'm guessing it shouldn't do that??? so I'll need a washer to bridge the gap and back the crown up. Crush washer or peel washer? If I wanted to get really ambitious and not use a washer would I have to cut back the threads to match the comp? How could I go about figuring out the timing to do that? Am I crazy to even think about it? What say the experts?Angel I 100% agree with Gentleman Jim. The best way is without a washer. Here's my 3gun rifle with a SJC Titan: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbullgpd Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Mine was the do it yourself answer, the gunsmith job is always the best way to go but having done it both ways I see no benefit between the two on how the comp works but the gunsmithed way looks better, can't argue that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 There is no one best way to do it. Peel wahers, crush washers, taking the time and energy to "index" one in all end in the same result, comp square on gun and usefull. KurtM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Med Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Here are some pics of the situation for additional comment and expert feedback First one is with a crush washer. At this point it is hand tight and I would need to get it turned an additional 180 degrees to be indexed. Is that too much to turn on a crush washer? Here it is without a washer. Jim was correct in that the threads on the barrel do not continue to the shoulder so the comp stops here. At this point hand tight it is indexed. So I would have to cut some clearance in the comp to get at least 1 more full revolution. Unfortunately I don't think I have the right tools to do this myself. This pic shows the crown protruding into the first chamber of the comp in the No Washer setup. How far can this stick out until it is a problem? If its a problem at all. Thanks again for all the feedback. Angel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Med Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Bump for some feedback on crush washer question in first pic I posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 I have turned crush washers over half, just make sure you have something that wont hurt your comp to turn it with. That is why I like the peel washers instead, you get it so it is just a smidge away from square at hand tight and then gently spin it the 1/16 turn extra with some red Loc-Tite and you are good to go. KurtM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 I install comps the same way Kurt described, but with no washer. Yes, I do have a lathe, doesn't everyone?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GentlemanJim Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 A crush washer can absorb more that 1 complete revolution You look to have about 1/2 of a revolution to go...thats just fine with the crush. Just make sure you support the receiver with that much torque I would prefer the peel washers...they square up better than a crush washer Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotm4 Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Drew Walter of Walts Auto Repair/W.A.R. rifles did mine on his gunsmith lathe, he does great work. (703) 367-0078 He should have his FFL any day now. Even without an FFL you can send him an upper or AR barrel for cutting/profiling, threading etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Med Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 Well. Thanks to gotm4 for referring me to Drew Walter. Terrific guy. I dropped the barrel off Tuesday and he had it ready Friday. Thats service you just don't see anymore. He completed the threads on the barrel to the shoulder, cut them back, re-crowned the barrel, and timed the comp. Looks like this now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
target1911 Posted May 9, 2009 Share Posted May 9, 2009 That looks GREAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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