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Disabling my grip safety


redwoods

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I am shooting in the single stack nationals this year and want to know

1. Can I legally disable my grip safety

2. I have a series II so I think I need the safety to disengage the firing pin block

3. Can I tape it closed using elec tape under the grips

Thanks,

Randy

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It's very easy to tune the grip safety to the point that it works, but just takes a gentle touch to activate it - you can probably have the best of both worlds with a well 'tuned' grip safety....

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Huh, I just went back and re-read the rule book. I'm not so sure you can't, but there is there:

Special conditions:

— Only 1911 production type pistols. Must be available to the general public

and have their basis in the original 1911 service pistol as designed by John

M. Browning. Pistols made from components that duplicate the factory

originals are acceptable. Frames must be metal.

You might actually be able to pin it short of a ruling out there. I'm still looking.

edited to add: didn't see anything in the rulings about it either.

Edited by SA Friday
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I guess if I pin it, the firing pin block pin would be constantly pushed up and I would not be able to get my slide off unless I unpinned the grip safety.

I had some trouble on my STI 40 built by Bedell, so I cut the safety. I just don't want to have a problem with the 1911 at the nationals. I have never had a problem with disabling it in the past. But then again, I don't have as many rounds through it as the STI 40 gun.

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I guess if I pin it, the firing pin block pin would be constantly pushed up and I would not be able to get my slide off unless I unpinned the grip safety.

I had some trouble on my STI 40 built by Bedell, so I cut the safety. I just don't want to have a problem with the 1911 at the nationals. I have never had a problem with disabling it in the past. But then again, I don't have as many rounds through it as the STI 40 gun.

unless you convert the innards to 70 series with the spacer kit, and then you have no firing pin stop in it anymore.

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It's very easy to tune the grip safety to the point that it works, but just takes a gentle touch to activate it - you can probably have the best of both worlds with a well 'tuned' grip safety....

Actually, if you grip it high enough, you can push on the beaver tail and engauge the grip safety. Certain people with certain hand sizes and grips preferences just can't consistently disengauge the grip safety.

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It's very easy to tune the grip safety to the point that it works, but just takes a gentle touch to activate it - you can probably have the best of both worlds with a well 'tuned' grip safety....

I think this is the answer.

I have been having minor issues with this myself. One of our members mentioned that I could "tune" it myslef easily or have someone else easily do it...so that it activates with very little "pressure".

I'm not sure yet if I will be tackling this myself yet or not...but I did just buy a the AGI 1911 DVD...still working up the nerve...and I don't want to void my warranty.

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It's very easy to tune the grip safety to the point that it works, but just takes a gentle touch to activate it - you can probably have the best of both worlds with a well 'tuned' grip safety....

In general, yes. However do NOT attempt to do this on a Series II Kimber. The Series II mechanism moves the firing pin lock out of the way by lifting a rod in the frame, the top of which bears on the firing pin lock plunger, and the bottom of which bears on the top of the grip safety tongue. It's quite possible, if you appy the same "take metal off the bottom of the grip safety tongue" approach to grip safety sensitization that would work great on other guns, on a Series II Kimber to wind up with a situation where the grip safety depresses far enough to allow the trigger bow to clear the grip safety tongue and travel to the rear to trip the sear, but not move the firing pin lock plunger up far enough to clear the firing pin. This, of course, leads to a big o'l click! when you pull the trigger. Let me repeat: do NOT take metal off the underside of the grip safety tongue on a Series II Kimber.

Having said that, tweaking the sear spring so that, while it still requires the same amount of inward movement to disengage the grip safety, it requires considerably less pressure to move it that much, is quite safe to do, and may well solve your problem.

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See if you can find it in the rule book.

Thank you very much for your insightful and helpful feedback.

There seemed to be a different slant by a couple of the "posters" which I thought needed clarification.

My understanding was that much of the value in forums like this was the open and supportive exchange of information.

Sorry if I mis-understood.

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You can speculate for weeks on a forum. The rules are in the rule book hence most people should retreat to that source to find out the facts. I think the fellow forum members are trying to teach others to fish so to speak. :sight:

Disabling secondary safeties is only restricted in Production Division. All other Divisions must maintain function of the primary safety.

post-8969-1239141916_thumb.jpg

post-8969-1239141924_thumb.jpg

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I don't advocate doing it, but yes, it is legal to disable the grip safety in SS division. Do a search and you'll see plenty of posts on it, and from those that have contacted John Amidon about it.

You can (fairly) easily remove the Schwartz safety from a series 2 Kimber. The most difficult part is removing and reinstalling the rear sight. Basically, you just remove all of the parts required for the safety - the firing pin blocker & spring, and the activator in the frame. The only issue with doing this is the open area next to the sear that the activator lever has left vacant. The only time this becomes an issue is when reassembling the gun from a full disassembly. When the hammer is not in the frame, the sear can get caught on the frame in this open space. When you are putting it all back together, just make sure the sear is sitting over to the left side of the gun and can engage the hammer properly. Under normal operation the sear can't and won't get caught on the frame (at least it hasn't on mine in a few thousand rounds). So, no spacer or kit is necessary.

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See if you can find it in the rule book.

Thank you very much for your insightful and helpful feedback.

There seemed to be a different slant by a couple of the "posters" which I thought needed clarification.

My understanding was that much of the value in forums like this was the open and supportive exchange of information.

Sorry if I mis-understood.

I was just trying to get you to read the book :)

Yes, it is legal.

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